Skara

'tis called Bindon aiming concept. But anyway, there is a company who makes pistol grip bottle adapters for M4s with I believe integrated regulators, Eurotactics IIRC.

Gib one/two days and I'll post the setup (just need my sniper rig to arrive -.-)

I am taking the black SMG'd out for a spin this Sunday (we're allowed to play again), just need to print an adapter for my 579 clone so it stops rattling when holstered. Also, half my club members now have an AAP too

I thought it was supposed to let you use a lighter spring to achieve the same energy level as a stiffer spring + lighter piston combination but it's not true (at least in my case), all it does is reduce the pressure spike on light bbs, because the amount of JC stayed the same at +0.5J (0.9/1.4, 1.05/1.55). Sound wise, it's the airbrake's job to slow down the piston before it hits the cylinder head pad, we already established that on my setup it doesn't work. Good news is Pavol (SCW guy) is willing to make me a dedicated airbrake for my cylinder head (I'll send him the exact measures tonight). As of now I'm not too worried about having a quiet gun, main concern is the power output

He succeeded though You're still here being toxic while calling us toxic.. Also it's the internet mate, if someone calls you a twat on a forum and you take it personally, you're fucking sad.

It's been quite the rollercoaster with the new spring yesterday. Installed, first shot on 0.2s gave me 0.9J, good, loaded some 0.4s and BOOM, 1.4J. A whopping half Joule of creep on a 300mm inner. Then removed the solder from the piston, 109/110 m/s with 0.2s and 1.56J on 0.4s.... Put the stock plastic piston in for science, 1.6+ joules on 0.4s, didn't bother with 0.2s. The fuck. Started cutting coils and got it down to 1.38J on 0.4s before nipping the spring too short to hold everything under tension (to prevent the spring guide stopper from falling off). Wasted a spring, ordered a M100 now. So it appears that the whole heavy piston best piston is a bunch of bollocks. I can only see it being used to cheat the chrono at those sites where chrono is made on FPS/0.2g.

You really want to run around with two metal things on your shoulder waiting to impale you if you fall? I'll take plastic ones every day over those. The sling will either be removed or modified to be a single strap on the right shoulder to "hold" an AAP01, on the left I'll have my mk23 so I reckon it'll be pretty balanced. Will post a picture once it gets here and I get to attach pouches (in the loadout thread)

Just picked this thing up on a Telegram group for €20 posted. It'll be used for my sniper kit as I don't want to ruin my other (real steel) rigs by painting/gluing shit onto

This particular thread is ran by the Ukara Police, they recently opened a price checking department

'nother one from Telegram. "M4 Specna Arms full metal perfect conditions (without internals) €150 including iron sights, suppressor and stock" Too bad the gun brand new, including them internals, retails for the same exact price

Just got a response from Pavol (SCW guy). He modeled the airbrake after the stock TM cylinder head, which has a ID of 4mm (the airbrake is 3.9). So according to this, I should increase the shaft's thickness by 2 millimetres, from 3.9 to 5.9, to achieve some sort of effect. I reckon one or two layers of heat shrink would do the trick. OR, since I'm running low on small diametre shrink, PTFE the shaft until I get 6mm OD, then one layer of heat shrink to bring it down to 5.5/5.9 and to keep everything nice and snug. Could it work? Imma give it a go tonight when I get back from ze concentration camp office along with testing the new spring. It's frustrating but also exciting as I get to actually modify stuff instead of just replacing it think it gets closer to the definition of "custom build"

Those who make ridiculously low offers should be shot. Nothing wrong in bartering the price of something, after all it's half the fun of buying/selling 2nd hand, but deliberately going for what's essentially robbery, meh.

Apdeit. Ordered a new spring, the only one I could find was a G&P SP110 that shouid be here tomorrow. In theory it is equivalent to a M120 so a bit too hot, but considering that the stock spring, which I believe to be a M80 or a very fucking weak M90, gave me about 0.7J on the stock 430mm barrel and 0.6J in the 300mm one, I reckon it'll set me just over 1J on 0.2s and around 1.1/1.2 on 0.4s (the system creeps by about 0.1J when going from 0.2s to 0.4s and by 0.05J from 0.2s to 0.3s). Hopefully it'll only require one coil snipped off instead of half a spring gone. I know I could have gone for a PDI/LayLax but the only place I could find them in stock is AirsoftPro.cz and shipping is freaking €20 from there, so I'll order the equivalent spring + spring guide and a few other bits & bobs to "dilute" the shipping costs whenever I am done paying taxes. In the meantime I have realized that the airbrake on the SCW piston is a bit useless, it's definitely too thin to have any sort of impact on both cylinder heads I have. BUT that is most likely me having absolutely no clue how an airbraked gun is supposed to sound like. I'm popping SCW a message and see what they say. Idk if any of you has noticed but I'm pretty frustrated

Was thinking something more modern, a nice session of waterboarding in Guantanamo Bay, an old classic in summer sports

The only time I ordered from aliexpress (€16 Geissele MK8 plastic fantastic clone) I didn't get any tracking number, only a "seller has shipped item" message. It did come within 2 weeks of ordering tho 😮 which is impressive for my shit 3rd world tier national postal service 😮

Burn the witch!

Define "hot". If hot as in temperature, yes it'll get warmer than with a 7.4/8.4. If hot as in over the site/legal energy limit, bollocks, it's an old popular belief that doesn't make any sense On a stock gearbox with stock motor a 11.1v battery will just up the RPS to just shy of 20, most likely in the 18/19 region, at those levels the piston won't commit sudoku (I know, shut up) unless it's pulling a M150 or the shimming is atrocious. It'll slowly burn the trigger contacts, but since it's an Edge we are talking about, the X-ASR mosfet will prevent that. Go get them batteries.

Shit I'd rock that! Missing a huge blade trigger though

As long as the slide isn't made of tungsten, depleted uranium or granite it should be fine

Either way them springs are really flimsy with very little yield strength (yes had to google the englando translation) so having them always compressed will likely cause "enervation" (is that correct?) thus constant replacement of the part.

Those kinds of mechanisms rarely rely on springs staying always compressed, so my guess is that the system is relaxed at first (no mag), spring then gets compressed (mag is being inserted) and released again (mag seated) and then the spring gets compressed to allow the magazine to be removed.

I also found Guarder springs to be rather soft for what they're rated at, a SP100 gave me barely 1J on the striker and a SP90 got my old ARP (180mm inner) to barely 0.65/0.7J. Btw, SP and M ratings are done with different bb weights, M springs are supposed to give you the number (in m/s) on 0.20g bbs, so a M100 means 100 m/s on 0.2s, whereas the SP springs are measured with 0.25s, again a SP100 would give you 100 m/s on 0.25g (around 112 m/s on 0.20s). That's the theory anyway. Meanwhile a SHS M90 spring in the striker gave me 1.2J easy (300mm inner and a cylinder volume not far from a full v2 one), the same spring also gave me 110 m/s on 0.2s in my specna 933 (3/4 cylinder, 260mm inner). Most likely a combination of the two. Also you mentioned that utter POS ProShit hop unit, did you keep the same unit throughout the test? Or did you go and swap it at some point? IKR, the FCU is the main selling point of the whole line fucking TM recoil syndrome right there

Aight. Small update: TDC installed, was easier than I thought even though I managed to mess up the epoxy mix (instead of 1:1 resin/agent I did 4:1 because I'm a retard), nonetheless it's rock solid now. Maple Leaf cylinder head just arrived and it's 1mm longer than the stock (which per se shouldn't be a bad thing). What worries me is the internal diametre of the nozzle, it's at least 1mm wider than the stock, which I reckon will render the airbrake a bit useless as it won't be large enough to "plug" the nozzle and do anything. It comes with its own rubber pad which is not the softest, luckily it appears to have the same exact specs (ID and OD) of the Laylax sorbos so swapping it shouldn't be much of a hassle. Tonight I'll test the gun fully assembled. Hopefully it'll work.

It's where I get the most info on airsoft stuff from. Every company has moved over there for their advertisements and updates on R&D -.- mostly because their FB pages get zucced a lot because of gun shaped objects in pictures.