Skara

So, once again nobody has seen the shady link (in funny image language) in the OP's post... Fuck me you're blind lol

Where is the air escaping from? Does the nozzle have an o-ring? Also, mushroom (or silent, in marketing language) piston heads aren't made to stand up to high RPS abuse, or at least that's what I heard back then.

I forgot to update: The owner has a property in Spain, he did take a trip there with my parcel in his suitcase and posted it from there. I got a partial refund for import taxes (still paid €40+ for postage, but that's okay) Comms were spotty though, could've sent me an email instead of going dark and having to resort to @Enid_Puceflangeto gather information.

Then Ares needs to fuck off.. G&G's new combat machines have really good polymer bodies that look decent too! Internally, while not on par with Specna/Evolution/Saigo they're still standard V2 so you can upgrade them as you like.

Told you he's speshul.

Good to see you guys are having fun! My day never started, yesterday I destroyed my chrono by letting a 30rps burst onto its screen and today we had to cancel the game because of heavy rain (and because people are pussies). On a positive note, I now have some time to sort the tournament M4 (1.05J, need to knock off one more tooth from the sector to bring it below 1) and start figuring out what I'll be carrying on the upcoming 21h event.

If we were to take the majority of players into account, this forum (and every other Airsoft platform) would be dead, because most of them can barely adjust the hop. Also, only the magnets are being considered in this test, and not stuff like TPA, amp draw in semi and auto, cycle time and heat generated (energy wasted, this one is quite hard to measure unless you cut a hole through the pistol grip).. A German YouTube channel did comprehensive testing of a ton of motors, from the shitty turbo 3000 to them sweet Warheads, in a 1h long video (kraut language but broken English subtitles)

Softair Italia (.it, the actual store, not .eu which is a warehouse in either France or Switzerland) is actually half an hour drive from me. The owner is a bit speshul so he might have filed the wrong information on the package, I'd just ring UPS and ask what information needs to be written on the parcel, then transfer said information to the store.. Regular post + customs is a shitty combination these days.

It looks to be based on the Striker system, which tells me Ares hasn't actually learned shit from the feedback they got over the last 5 years. The screw under the rear iron sight sits in just about the perfect place for a Striker style spring guide stopper and the cylinder having two horizontal slits seems to confirm what I said above. If only they sized the cylinder properly to the humongous inner barrel... The only thing I can't see is a hole for the TDC adjustment, which makes me think the hop is gonna be an utter cunt to adjust.

I always remove teeth from the pickup side. The thing is, there is already a very short time between the tappet plate (nozzle) release point and the piston release point, if you shorten that gap even more by removing teeth from the release side you'll most likely cause timing issues, where the piston is being released when the nozzle is still traveling forward, causing massive power losses and/or fucked up feeding. Shaving from the pickup side will just delay the piston's engagement point. Also no, you don't need to remove teeth from the piston rack, those last 2/3 teeth will never get used and shaving them won't save much weight either.

Depends on how the whole thing is set up. Release side is always "dangerous" because of how close the release points for the nozzle and piston are and needs proper planning or you'll end up with massive power losses or fucked up feeding.

Intentionally removing a tooth or two from the sector gear is common practice. The tooth snapping on its own means the sector gear is made of molten cheese and makes me wonder how shit that gear is and how long until it dies, killing half the internals in the process....

Absolutely no clue, I guess we'll find out whenever they receive the motor.

So I sent the motor back, hopefully my dank postal service won't fuck up and send the motor to Uganda or something. Anyway, they will replace the ESC with their wired one and it's only gonna be 3/4 centimetres of wires, don't even have to rewire my mosfet. Still dummy expensive because at this point I think I should have bought a Ronin in the first place lol.

It's normal. The nozzle stays retracted when "at rest". Nothing to worry about.

I'm definitely gonna fry something, so yeah, I'll just send the motor back to have it fixed. I need 20cm long wires. Lmao. It's also gonna be dummy expensive.

Had a quick look this morning and I think I can get the connectors to sit along the gearbox, kept in position by that stupid sheet metal thingamajig. Tonight I *might* try to disassemble the end bell and see how it's made. If I feel confident enough I'll try and wire it myself, if it's an absolute mess I'll just order a new ESC with wires installed. As for the other motor, I think I'll leave it as it is.

If compression parts seal well then your problem might lie in the nozzle/hop rubber seal. As others have said, check your nozzle, if it's shorter than the stock or if it's overall shorter: make sure it's fully extended into the hop rubber, grab a torch and shine it down the muzzle. If you see light coming from the hop rubber lips, it's too short. Also please don't use metal nozzles. Actually don't use metal compression parts at all!

Not all hope is lost. Mailed Warhead and they told me they can repair/replace the ESC. I was thinking, since the short motor is going to permanently live in my AK, and since the only other modification I might make to it is HPA and I don't see myself going HPA anytime soon (too many logistical bollocks to sort), I am considering getting the motor tabs swapped out for wires, so I can have the actual connectors sitting halfway through the motor cage (will have to check if the pistol grip can handle the extra bulk), thus greatly reduce the chances of me snapping something. Shit quality graph below. I'm also considering doing something similar on the M4 though the motor placement makes it a thunderbitch to properly design. I can modify both the Titan and Perun Hybrid wirings to have interchangeable "motor ends" and have dedicated ends depending on what motor I want to fit. Not that I'll be constantly swapping them every other day, that is. What do you guys think?

Great. Now one of the tabs on the AK motor just snapped. Out of nowhere.

SHS M90 is what's in there. Probably not a true M90, but this is the chrono reading from 5 minutes ago, on a 7.4v Which btw is too hot and needs a second tooth knocked off the sector gear.

I want to *at least* try to make them work. If I can't, I'll then focus on the ak and revert to the SHS for the M4

Sorry, not spending another €70 on an inferior motor. Ball ache ftw!

Joined the AssBook group, posted my question, now people instead of helping are questioning that my guns can do 0.98J on a short stroked M90 setup. Many useful, much entitlement. I now remember why I don't bother with FB groups anymore.