Skara

Maybe that's the issue. Care to write down a parts list? Maybe your hop rubber is slightly tilted or the TDC isn't applying proper pressure.

Almost two months later, an update! Life's been a twat and didn't have much disposable income until last week, but I kept looking at the various options. In the end I went with the Claw Gear Mk II Combat Operator Pants because of the stretchy material on the butt, zipper ankle closure and lack of extra, unnecessary pockets. At €140 they're not even that expensive, right within my initial budget (teammates kept recommending SOD gear, but it's right on par with Crye regarding price and, as previously stated, if I had to spend that much I would have gone with Crye.). I did take a gamble on sizing, ordered a 38/32 which is, theoretically, a perfect fit for me. If it ends up being a little tight, I'll take it as an incentive to lose some weight A size 40 would be definitely too large, even for me.

dis ❤️ https://liveqordie.com/mini-fix-pistol/

I'd love to see an airsoft Mini Fix!!!!!!

Funny enough, I have a CQB bolt action in the works more like a wallhanger/plinker kind of gun, but still

0.8J as per TM standard. Cool gimmick stock but it's still a TM vsr, with an utter wank 45° trigger and a cylinder that needs drilling to access.

Fucking YouTube videos.

That's my balcony and it's been raining like crazy for the last 4 days

Low quality incomplete family photo ❤️

It's the soul of the last bb warrior he claimed, forever wandering in that glass as a reminder for everyone to call their hits

Well you see more warhead motors because a) they're the new kid on the block and b) the other options are shit (Option no.1 motors are well known for shitting themselves and the other was a G&P motor I think that's literally impossible to find). The AliExpress brushless airsoft motors are just as expensive as a Warhead so I don't see the point of buying those. I have two warheads, one of which is currently in Denmark for repairs as I snapped one of the tabs (they're giga flimsy and WH is aware of that). I wish they were cheaper, especially for the performance increase I'm getting out of them compared to my €30 SHS HT brushed motors (1/2 extra RPS in full auto). But I definitely do not fall under that 90% of airsofters I mentioned earlier, I'm part of that 10% who actually dicks around with guns and the even smaller percentage of people who don't really mind spending a small fortune (solely because I can afford it atm) on gun shaped toys. Dis is going in my signature, and yes i'm a wanker at heart

To me it looks like we're trying to find a solution for a problem that does not exist. Like having multiple, pre set firing modes, in my 12 years of playing I have never gotten into an engagement and thought "oh, how I wish I had a 6 rounds burst for that guy and then a 3 and a half rounds one for that cheeky cunt behind that tree" A Gate Titan will give you some degree of customisation when it comes to firing modes, for example you can program it to have semi-binary-burst/auto which is something I did for a while before reverting back to my good old safe-binary-auto. Though I'm sure many people won't even bother and will just set active brake to adaptive (very bad for your motor) and precocking to adaptive as well. Just like brushless motors, they're a niche because 90% of the people don't need them, and the 10% who do are prepared to dish out some serious cash.

That's because you can't give a Ferrari to someone who's just got his license unless you want to attend his funeral the next day or so

This is one good way to waste a fuckton of money. Unfortunately Airsoft doesn't have any sort of standard, parts from brand X may not fit well with brand Y, and often parts from X won't fit with parts from the same X brand too!

What Adolf said, essentially. Learning to tech on your only gun can be giga frustrating because if you fuck up you won't be able to go out and play. It's expensive, but trust me it's worth. Doesn't even have to be a brand new gun, it could also be a boneyard/2nd hand RIF.

I say it's okay! The only thing I'd do is get another case and drill a couple of holes in it, one for the microphone (waterproof cases, even with the open back panel, tend to muffle all the sounds) and one where the micro usb port is, so you can plug the camera to a power bank and record for longer periods.

Two things: a) you mentioned a m120 spring, did you work on the gearbox? because assuming a perfect air seal and no teeth removed from the sector, a M120 will give way above 1.13J of energy. b) what's your field like? Woodland or indoor CQB? If your answer to B is cqb, then you won't need to change anything, as long as the bb goes somewhat straight for 20 or so metres you're golden. Maybe swap the rubber out for a Prometheus Purple if you really want to change something. If the answer is woodland, then you might want to consider a couple of things: 0.2s are not up to the task, yes they fly out of your barrel pretty fast, but due to their low weight (and inertia) they lose power and speed pretty quickly, limiting your range; For average woodland usage, most people go for 0.28, 0.30 and 0.32g bbs, they have a lower initial velocity but due to their increased mass (and inertia) they hold onto their energy for longer, are less affected by wind and generally speaking they sport higher range. Some people use heavier (0.40 and upwards) because they sleep under a bridge can afford it, somehow. To get the best from these heavier weights, you need a hop up system that can support them. This means a hop unit that is as rigid as it gets, especially around the hop arm, to give the most consistent pressure possible and a hop rubber with a concave contact patch. Barrels are not as important as people may think, as long as they are straight and aren't overly tight/wide they're okay. Speaking of your case, Specna Cores come with an okay hop up chamber, which isn't the best in terms of rigidity (mine definitely weren't) but they are workable. Maple Leaf hop rubbers (specifically Macarons and Super Macarons) are a good upgrade that doesn't cost money or mental health (looking at you R-Hops), they require a dedicated concave tensioner (Maple Leaf Omega or similar). Alternatively a PDI W-Hold with its B type tensioner, a generic flat hop even though it's outdated and finnicky to make. Barrels: the ZCI mentioned are really good for what they cost, just be aware that being tighter than the stock Specna barrels they'll increase the energy. I have two Specna Core guns, both run on Maxx units, Maple Leaf rubbers (60° Super Macaron on the C-02, 70° Super Macaron on the C-08), ZCI barrels (260mm C-02 and 247mm C-08), both guns can deliver 0.3g bbs at 60 metres while being sub 1J in energy (both around 0.97/0.98J). Now the Maxx chambers are expensive and require some fiddling with, but imo you can't beat them in terms of consistency (no, plastic ZCI units aren't just as good, stop lying to yourself). You may need a different nozzle because they only want certain lengths. A few considerations on rubber hardness: Most people recommend 50s or 60s, I found 50s to be way, way too soft, especially the feed lips which tend to deform and fold in full auto causing power drops and inconsistent hop. Don't bother with R-Hops, they still wear out and it's a pain to replace patches. As said, flat hops are a thing of the past, it was done to mimic the R-Hop but without the hassle of preparing and gluing a rubber patch on the barrel. Most hop units don't even have enough range of adjustment to make up for the lack of material (there is no contact patch) and when I did them years ago, I had to get creative and make my own tensioners. Overall upgrading your hop up system is one of the things I consider mandatory in order to get the best performance out of your RIF, but only if you can really exploit its potential.

Sry for being nitpicky original picture is also low quality so it makes it harder to detect, but: yellow: what the tooth should look like blue: what the tooth is actually like

1st(pick up), 4th and 5th teeth are chewed up, with the 2nd and 3rd being spotless.

That piston says PME all over the place. There could be too much friction inside the cylinder or the piston guides due to no lubrication, or the spring is so soft it can't push the piston forward fast enough. Or, the easiest option, someone got a jam and kept firing. Cylinder head requires a tiny amount of lube around the sealing o-ring(s), I use silicone grease (just a dab) for that. To remove old grease/oil just wipe the thing with a cloth/paper towel.

lol

13:1 36k warhead on a 7.4v has about the same (feel-able) cycle time in semi as a 13:1 22tpa ZCI on a 11.1v. Both pulling SHS M90 springs

They come from the same factory that makes Specna, Dboys and Saigo Defense branded rifles. The internals are the exact same, though orange coloured plastics instead of light blue, red and black respectively.

So, once again nobody has seen the shady link (in funny image language) in the OP's post... Fuck me you're blind lol