Skara

Did you measure the old nozzle length and buy accordingly? Also, revert all the upgrades (bar the nozzle) and test every piece individually to see if you can ID the part. You mentioned a ML rubber, which one is it? The older Macarons are notorious for having "too long" feed lips (within quotes because I run them and never had an issue) which affect feeding. The newer Super Macarons seem to have sorted it out, in addition to a larger contact patch and two convenient shoulders inside the rubber for rigidity. Failing all of the above, you may want to add a delayer chip to your sector gear, just be careful to install it the right way (shorter side on the left) otherwise you *may* incur in timing issues, though unlikely after watching those short videos. Another thing, I wouldn't run an aluminium nozzle, if the whole thing is not 100% aligned you risk chewing through hop rubbers like crazy. A simple polymer one with an o-ring will do.

There is, but yeah it's not overly exaggerated as one may think. I still wouldn't use the 2700mAh battery though, if I'm not mistaken the motor you have (standard 14tpa ferrite) draws way more than 27 amps (talking 45 at least) and it will kill the battery quickly. It's always better to have an oversized battery than the other way around.

Not really, but you do you. First and last bursts come from the 2400mAh 40c battery It's not just the C rating, capacity (mAh) also plays a role. 2400 mAh battery dumps 88 amps (2400 x 40) while the 2700 mAh only dumps 27 (2700 x 10). In your audio you can clearly hear how the 27 amps battery renders the gun sluggish while the 88 amps one gives the gun a much healthier sound.

Nobody mentioned the motor because it's not the solution. All you've done is introduce more overspin to lower the chances of the system stopping in the position I described above, but the issue (cutoff lever) is still there, and now you've introduced a new problem, which is the piston stopping in random places due to increased overspin, which leads to the spring being somewhat always compressed (but it's not consistent) which in turn increases stress on things like the piston, gears, bushings and such. The only sensible way to permanently eliminate gearbox lockups (caused by the cycle itself) is to fuck off the cutoff lever and install an FCU with cycle detection.

They have a sensor that reads the sector gear's teeth when they pass by and does some math to figure it out (Titan), or they have a sensor that reads the sector gear's cam (the one that engages the cutoff lever). Other mosfets like the old BTC Spectre or the G&G ETU still rely on a mechanical cutoff but it activates a microswitch instead of being read by an optical sensor.

It's a "timing issue" that occurs when the cycle stops right to the point where the cutoff lever engages the trigger trolley too early and said trolley is lifted from the trigger before closing the circuit. It's unavoidable and an inherent design flaw of AEGs. To permanently eliminate the issue you need a mosfet with cycle detection (replaces the cut off lever) like a Gate Titan/Aster or Perun Optical/Hybrid.

Direct Action has one, it's called interface something. Nvm found it. https://eu.directactiongear.com/en/front-flap-rig-interfacer.html#AGR For a similar price there is a Crye AirLite harness knock-off on AliExpress

OR, if you still want a PDW style stock but with TONS of battery space, and you like a borderline impossible challenge, you could try and source a King Arms PDW stock like the ones I have on my AEGS in the picture below (the two M4s are Specnas btw). Borderline impossible challenge because I got the last two available in Europe and as of now the only two places you can get them from are tiger111hk and directly from King Arms.

Depends on the application. If you play cqb, where you need a snappy gun, then a programmable mosfet is a nice, semi mandatory upgrade. If you don't play cqb and you use full auto quite a bit (e.g. woodland games) then a mosfet becomes less important, it's still s nice thing to have onboard but not strictly mandatory. These two apply to 11.1v batteries as well, and while it is true that a 11.1v will accelerate wear and tear on trigger contacts, it will still take an awful lot of time to render them unserviceable.

You just need a buffer tube and butt plate (the one with sling attachment loops). Both can be bought for €20 or less, then add whatever stock you want. Keep in mind that you may need longer wires because afaik the "pdw" versions may have shorter wires installed.

So I ended up spending way more money than anticipated. Started off with a nice order from Varuste.net where I bought a DD hammocks tarp, a DC4 sharpening stone and a Nalgene bottle (not properly airsoft related), then bought a M600P repro torch with a few accessories that I have yet to try because my rechargeable 123s are stuck somewhere, then saw a nice Source Convertube (turns a basic water bottle into a bladder) because reasons as I already have two Source bladders (one 3l, one 2l) and about 5 minutes ago I bought a Retro Arms V3 gearbox. It's not over though, I have some other bits and bobs in my shopping cart on another website (namely Retro Arms AK selector and screw, 2x RA M4 magazine releases, a pressure pad for a friend and then some supplies like BBs and gas)

Well at this point I think the guy needs exposed. One thing is to not be the best tech around, the possibility of fucking something up may be low but are never zero (seen it first hand), but proactively replacing a gun's internals with cheap shit so that you can keep those parts for you/resell them is wrong and needs addressed, period. Also, want to talk about aluminium compression parts? on a 1.8J gun and the cheapest of cheap Specna/Dboys/AimTop cast gearbox shells? lmao.

ICS runs a proprietary gearbox, so yeah, you screwed up

Have you tried using a different brand of BBs?

Nope, don't think it's possible to holster it, your best bet is a 2 points sling. Yes it will

Clickbait title, poor quality content, airsoft drama. Kicking Mustang is that you?

One of the problems the AS01 and 02 had was that the cylinder was made of brass and the butt plate (where the charging handle screws onto) was simply held in place by four small, presumably steel, pins. The pins being much harder than brass would then carve their way out of the cylinder body, causing catastrophic failures. A one piece cylinder, as the name suggests, has the cylinder body and butt plate made of a single solid block of metal, which makes it much, much stronger. Regarding the hop rubber, it's up to you really, when I had mine a simple Maple Leaf Decepticon worked exceptionally well (if you go with concave rubbers you need a concave tensioner, which on the striker implies replacing the hop up arm because it has a very thin integrated one) but there are so many available it's not even fun. The new design of the cocking indicator should be much better although being Ares I don't really trust them on actually improving something.

So, yours is the new version with the one piece cylinder, which will save you a fair bit of money! It still requires a TDC wheel (Action Army makes the best one) because the grub screw has a tendency to unscrew itself with use, then I'd look at a new o-ring for the piston head (it's AEG spec so any AEG o-ring will do), new hop rubber because the stock one is pisspoor quality and, if you can find it, a Gunsmithy hop up arm. You can keep the stock hop chamber because it's decent and seals well. If you're looking at reducing the sound, I'm afraid there's not much you can do, airbrakes don't really work on this gun and the cylinder volume is barely enough for 0.32s, let alone heavier BBs.

Nice and easy day on the field, despite the 30+ degrees, played in the lower part where it is a little cooler and there is more shade. All well until the last game, where my PDW suddenly stopped working, it was feeding fine but air wasn't coming out, at first I thought the piston head had come loose just like what happened to my M4, but once I got home I cracked it open to find that the tappet plate spring had snapped in half. Easy fix at least, luckily I had my pistol (was testing out the new Deadly Customs holster I bought, awesome bit of kit btw). This was the last Sunday game before summer break, from next week we will play on Friday night.

Depends on how it's shaped, it can, because it picks up the tappet plate before the pin on the sector gear. I'm using this (picture below) with the flat side on the left (pickup) so the nozzle movement isn't anticipated much.

It's a matter of the hop arm not pushing down enough rather than hop rubber hardness tbf. Back when I wasn't running Maxx hop units I used to shim my tensioners with half of a standard tube tensioner (tensioner-ception) placed between the hop arm and actual tensioner. A square piece of hop rubber will also do, as @Adolf Hamstersuggested, but try to place it between the arm and Omega nub.

Yes there is, you need to cut down the tappet plate so its release is anticipated. Unfortunately, how much you cut is mostly trial and error unless you buy a TopMax (small italian company) tappet plate which has guide cuts for various lengths (picture attached, top is V2, bottom is V3). In theory the first cut is for 1/2 teeth knocked off the release side, the second equals 3 teeth and the third is 4 teeth removed, in practice I use these two as a guide and cut other plates accordingly.

No derp, it's what I did, reshaped the face of the fin and now it is half a millimetre less prominent and does more of a curve rather than two separate steps, just to gain that fraction of a second. And cut off a section from the bottom to allow for an earlier release. Essentially I delayed the nozzle movement backwards and anticipated the piston release. If it doesn't work for me, no biggie, I have stocked quite a few tappet plates just in case I mess up Back to the OP: as I said the warhead motor spins so fast it causes all sorts of issues if a gun is not properly tuned.

True, I generally only remove teeth from the pickup side too, but in the case of my AK I was loosing air because the tappet plate was being pulled before the piston could impact the cylinder head (fucker does 24 RPS on a 7.4), my possible solution to this was to cut down a release tooth on the sector (along with the two pickup teeth I had removed already), didn't loose any volume as the piston still travels past the whole port on the cylinder, in addition to that I installed a delayer that is very, very thin on the pickup side and modified the tappet plate fin by shortening it (releases early) and removing some material from the pickup point (picks up later). A whole bunch of work to, hopefully, get it to feed with high caps and get to shoot within my 1J limit as it was doing 1.1 on a M90 (pretty silly air seal)