Skara

Everything you see in the first picture kinda needs replacing. What you broke is the valve knocker lock (or firing pin lock) and it's the second part that breaks in an AAP after the hammer itself. You can source an original replacement but at this point I suggest replacing the whole trigger/hammer mechanism with CowCow parts.

Whether it's worth the money or not is completely up to one's expectations. To me it's worth it because I know I can turn it into a decent shooter and I'm not too fussed about looks. It does stand out from the sea of M4s, if that's your thing and it has a certain "fear factor" when your target is quite close. Keep in mind that for a similar expense you can get a generic M4 to fire at the same ROF, if not higher, and not have to worry too much about breaking things (and you get decent ergonomics on top of that) Wouldn't run it on 0.2s because they just lack the performance, especially since this thing comes out at 0.7-ish joules and as of now there are no spare parts available.

Alright, took it apart after today's game and: The internals are proprietary except for the motor, inner barrels and hop rubbers. The springs are vsr-like, but half the length and of odd diametre (11.3mm OD, 8.90 ID). Piston heads (consequently "cylinders" and cylinder heads) are smaller than AEG spec at 20mm OD. Nozzles are proprietary and don't have o-rings. Barrels are supposed to be 226x6.03 but I will check this later. Performance wise it's a hungry beast. Just setting the hops will chew through half a kilogram of 0.25s, it's far from efficient as well, drawing 30odd amps to start and keeping 24A during function, but that is due to the motor being a meh ferrite one. The upgrade plan is: • sort the air seal with new o-rings; • replace the motor with a less thirsty one, even if the overall ROF goes down; • replace hop rubbers to get the maximum possible range on 0.25s; • [optional] replace the inner barrels to bring the power up closer to 0.99J without putting unnecessary stress on the mechanical components. Alternatively make some spacers to go between piston heads and springs to compress them a little more. Pro tip for long term storage: Unscrew the barrel assembly, due to the way it works 4 out of 5 springs are always under tension. Edit: a full sized, picture filled breakdown and "review" will come once I have upgraded it.

Is there that much dimensional difference? Or can one bodge a regular v3 with a dremel, a file and a drill?

I mean, every Ares out of the box needs, as a bare minimum to keep the gun going for *at least* 6 months: New bushings, New piston body, New o-rings, New nozzle, New tappet plate, New hop rubber. That's out of the box, no matter what gun or gearbox version it is. Once you do these things you still have a gun with proprietary parts that can't really be modified without spending way too much. Back on topic, I did ask Ares about something a while ago and it took ages for them to respond, but at that point I had already sold the gun.

People who still buy Ares deserve the horrible experience they get. Change my mind

70° mainly because it can withstand high raters of fire without breakages (lips on the 50 tend to fold at 25ish rps, causing all sorts of bad things to the gearbox and its internals). If semi only is your thing then a 60 should be fine.

Well yeah I don't expect much accuracy/range from this, but having a general idea of where the swarm of angry bees will go is nice when catching someone off guard

First impressions: I'm surprised, it feels very solid despite the brand not being something we usually associate with the word, it's also not a feather at 3.4kg (w/o BBS or a battery). Did a quick test to ensure it's in working order and it already put an evil grin on my face ? Now I just have to set the hops and buy a couple of bags of 0.25s Maybe slap a red dot on it and set up a temporary sling.

Look what UPS delivered today

Sort the air seal first to make it shoot consistently, then get a Super Macaron in either 60 or 70 degrees. Don't forget a concave tensioner (Maple Leaf Omega or similar).

Not really unless raw performance is your goal. I ran out of stuff to do so might as well try R-Hopping something. Took it apart and forgot to take a picture. The piston I'm using atm (FPS white) is a tiny bit narrower than usual, I believe it's to prevent the spring from rattling during use but at the same time I found some damage near the hole, which makes me think that the piston is getting caught by the spring guide. Cut another tooth off the sector (3 off the pickup side now) which should fix it as there is now a good 3mm between piston and spring guide bearing at full travel. Power has dropped to 0.78J but I have installed a zci m100 spring that should, in theory, bring the energy back to the 1J limit..

In Italy it's more commonly referred to as "SOCOM" because it's easier to pronounce (and sounds much better, from a language perspective) than Mark 23, mk23 or any other name.

Christmas is over, I know, and as always I'm either too early or too late Anyhow, I have just ordered: 1x Vector Optics Mustang LPVO; 1x repro Unity LPVO mount; 1x LPVO killflash; 1x 40mm killflash for my Swiss Arms 4x40; 1x MP5 insert to go into my Ammo Hub; 1x M4 insert, same as above. A few days ago I ordered dis monstrosity and dis monstrosity feeding apparatus because when the question is "how many RPS do you need??" the answer is always "yes".

First game of 2024. Nice, chill day with a touch of rain and a lot of wind Got to use the waterproof jacket i bought specifically for airsoft and it stood the rip and tear test my field kindly offers Games were overall okay, we had a few people who were at their first experience so a few blue-on-blue incidents happened, but nothing major and everything was solved with a good laugh 15 people on the field, doesn't seem much compared to your numbers but for us, having so many people during holidays is quite an achievement Gun wise, I was meant to use the long M4 but ran into the same issue I've been having since october, for some reason the piston gets caught by the sector gear right on the edge of the pickup tooth in a way that it jams and needs the piston forced back with a screwdriver to unlock. Makes me think the spring is done for, so I will remove one more tooth (currently SS'd by one, iirc) with a slightly tougher spring to compensate, may R-Hop it while I'm there. Short M4 performed well, as expected, just need to loctite the motor adjustment screw so it doesn't shake itself loose. Gear wise I ran my Made in Poland RG belt kit and small backpack, unfortunately I managed to snap another antenna for my radio, so I will have to come up with a proper fix.

This is one of those bodges I haven't tried yet! You'll hear from me when my warheads completely destroy them gearboxes

Sort the shit air seal first Piston head, nozzle and hop rubber need to be replaced. Good shout on the Super Macaron + Omega nub combo, pick a 60 or a 70 (they're infinitely better than 50s, which are way too soft) Stock barrel is fine, just give it a good clean.

Asked the guys at Taiwangun if spares are available, also asked if nozzles, piston heads and main springs are AEG spec.. If so, my plan for mass destruction of airsoft newbs and cheetas may proceed

I'm wondering what will happen if I slap a warhead 36k on it....

https://www.taiwangun.com/machine-gun-aeg/we23-s-rotary-minigun-style-replica-well Hideous, but has the potential to be the ultimate meme RIF. I'm thinking of buying one with my airsoft mate. https://www.taiwangun.com/drum-magazine-aeg/1200rd-magazine-or-the-we23-s-minigun-well Here's a breakdown video where some clever technical solutions are done.. All I need to figure out is how to fine tune the energy output (says it comes out at 0.78J, may bring it to the 0.9/0.95J region) and how to make the plastic sleeve/cam track sturdier.

I love them on my Vector Mavericks. Noticeable (not annoying), but as budget as they are, they're still €90+ sights and having one shot out isn't great. Plus they saved my mate's one a few times already!

Realistic, short and lightweight in the same sentence can't coexist. I went with Specna Cores for my M4s because of the polymer body and QC 8mm gearboxes, also they are silly cheap (paid €120 for the one pictured, 150 for my other M4), over time I have replaced EVERYTHING inside them, including gearbox shells. You can pick up pretty much whatever you want, G&Gs used to be great bases to work with but as of today, there are plenty of alternatives that give more bang for buck (Specna, Dboys, Evolution, Saigo - these all come from the same factory, same guns different coloured plastics.. Cyma is great too). Upgrade wise, find out what you want from your gun first and then upgrade as needed. It doesn't make sense to empty the whole thing and rebuild it if you don't know what you're looking for, you will just waste money and have something that doesn't put an evil grin on your face every time you plug the battery in. My M4s, for example, are twin builds as I've put the same exact internals in both, bar the inner barrel and spring. The train of thought behind them was to have the most reliable gun possible that could still provide a decent full auto ROF of about 20 to 24 RPS, decently snappy semi auto response and be as battery efficient as possible. I've gone for Warhead 36k,Retro Arms gearbox, SHS/Rocket 13:1 gears, 8mm steel solid bushings, FPS compression parts, Perun Hybrid FCU, Maxx ME hop units, Maple Leaf 70° hop rubbers. As mentioned above the only differences are found in the spring rating (M90 for the long boi, M100 for the short) and inner barrel (6.05x247 and 6.05x185 respectively). Externally I tried to keep things light, so the choice of stock was the King Arms PDW (which is now impossible to find anywhere but from KA themselves and good luck buying one with their insane shipping rate), carbon fibre outer barrels and AliExpress handguards (back when you could find them). The carbon fibre stuff I source from Mac Airsoft, which I happen to live just 40 minutes away from.. We're both based in Italy but he does make CF barrels, stocks and handguards for many brands (Monk Customs and the likes) so you will find his stuff pretty much everywhere. He also makes very neat CNC'd aluminium receivers, but I prefer plastic. My guns aren't realistic at all, they're just functional to what I do with them. Pic of my other M4 for boasting purposes (2.2kg)

Build one yourself then, won't be cheap by any means but it'll be the length/weight you desire. I wouldn't bother with ANY of the ones you mentioned. This is mine, 6.7" handguard, 7" carbon fibre outer barrel, 185x6.05 barrel. Stupid light, could go lighter with a carbon fibre handguard but I'm fine with the current one. Also the gun was born as a 10.8" M933

We could spend ages talking about nylon. Tell us what RIFs you have and how much crap you intend to carry with you! Kit selection is heavily based on your play style and your supply requirements. I, for example, have different kits for different uses: If I'm playing a "short" event, with not many kilometres involved, I run a chest rig, shooter's belt and small (9L) backpack. When kilometres and play hours increase (8h+) I switch to a battle belt and either a small (9L) or medium (20L) backpack. Pack selection is also based on expected weather/temperatures and event duration. For regular skirmishes anything goes, really. Depending on the RIF I use I may not even wear any nylon, just a small pack with comms, BBs and water.