Status Updates posted by Skara
Isn't it lovely when your gun shoots lasers until you hit the field, then shots go everywhere but where you aim.
Nonetheless it got me a couple of otherwise impossible hits
>Chronoes the arp, does 0.5J
>Opens the gearbox and finds the spring snapped clean in half
>Puts SP90 (around m100) in, chronoes at 0.7J
>Puts M110 in
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Yeah I know.
But still pisses me off..
Btw the arp spring guide has a spacer, not a proper thrust bearing but does the same thing.
Oh well at least I got to clean up the mess created by the plastic king arms piston I previously had in the gun.
There is an air leak around the nozzle, but I'll wait to rebuild the whole box to fix it.
Beat me to it, was going to suggest of course obligatory broken spring replacement but whack an 0-ring nozzle in there whilst you're at it.
On my Ares 008 I'm using an M90 with spring and pistonhead bearings with a 128mm 6.01 inner and it sits just about on 1J, really shouldn't need an M110 to get you there.
5mm & 10mm thickness
Alas the 5mm thick has only a M5 hole
so you may need to widen it a bit depending on piston head fitment
a 3mm tooth equates ROUGHLY to M05 or 16.4fps
so ROUGHLY a 5mm spacer adds up to 27 fps
& ROUGHLY a 10mm spacer adds up to 54 fps
Or a 5mm spacer will offset most of power lost from SS 2 teeth
& a 10mm spacer will offset a smidge more than SS 3 teeth
APROX - it kinda works but airsoft physics never works out
exactly in every case - but along those lines somewhat
One word of caution though...
If using a 10mm spacer, double check some longer spring guides
do not bottom out on spacer at full 101% stroke
it is very rare but one spring guide just kissed the 10mm spacer
at full retraction
Not really an issue for me as I SS quite a few boxes
but on say a full length AK 455mm where you keep full or most of stroke, then it is something to remember if trying to boost power
(either a m80 spring to get 350fps or a m100 spring for DMR use)
Then if boosting the spring compression/power with a 10mm spacer
just see if the guide/spacer come close to bottoming out...
FUCK IT - pics say a 1,000 words...
variation in spring guide lengths:
(no they are spring guides not collection of "other toys")
and some instances where a longer spring guide might bottom out
Now admit that is due to the collar from bearings being used...
but you get the idea of what to watch out for
(and why you should not push it with longer 15mm or 20mm long spacers inside piston)
So I use 5mm or 10mm thick 15mm spacers
and wtf as i revisited my old imgur account
here is 007's view on which gears to use...
€270 and won't be shipped before April 2021.
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@Skara - Yeah I don't really get what the supply chain issue is. Even if you pre-ordered yonks ago you won't have one in your hands for another four months.
@Skara - That's one way to ensure healthy cash flow!.....also I may have accidentally ordered one but thinking of cancelling it in hindsight. I've just ordered another SSX23 and that shoots about as far as I would need it to. Plus, really struggling to compute having only 24 rounds in my primary magazine (plus those MK23/SSX23/SSX303 mags are a bitch to load).
So I found this telegram group.
People are buying/selling airsoft kit.
There's enough material to post once per hour on Macks for the next 15 years!
I've put a few items in there too (at reasonable prices, 65% of rrp yallayalla), I'm getting some dumb offers, didn't know I had "charity" next to my name.
I fucking love when your gun is fucking spot on at home (even after fucking extensive testing), but then on the field it does whatever the fuck it wants.
Fuck off, really..
Does anyone have any experience with Perun Optical mosfets?
Shall I buy it for the arp9?
Can't be worse than the Ares rail I currently have, right?
Ares motor died, finally, after 4 years..
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The gun somehow came back to life on its own 😕
i suspect a jam, because when I took the barrel out there was a BB stuck inside.
Gonna take it apart nonetheless to check for actual damage, at worst a new tappet plate and piston (which I already have).
If the sector is damaged I'll just swap the whole set with the stock gears from the specna.
Also installed the SHS HT into the ARP and my club's tech suggested to run the gun as it is until it dies and only then open it up to install the 13:1 set.
I'm also turning off active braking because it heats up the motor like.....a motorfucker (yay I'm funneeee)..
If the other gears are OK then just try replacing the sector only
& see how it rolls/spins/meshes perhaps
Std sectors are usually compatible - just if they mesh smoothly
If the bevel/spur are OK, shimmed OK & meshing nicely
eg: bevel to pinion, then just look to change sector
(or as little as possible)
Also some have said the std SA gears are not that robust
BUT I don't own one or a SA set myself
Yes AB is all well & good but heat can increase
on a ferrite motor, the motor continues to spin - a lot
Where as on a neodym motor, the strong magnets slow th
motor much quicker than a ferrite motor
On "the bench" the ferrite motor spins a lot longer
The neodym motor slows much much much quicker
In reality though the spring starting to compress slows them both
But I feel the neodym motor overspins slightly less in the box
So on a neodym motor AB is not needed perhaps
A clip showing AB on & the AB off with a neodym motor
YES with AB off the motor spins more
BUT no where as much as std ferrite motor does
This is a SHS High Speed so it is spinning faster
But doesn't carry on spinning like a std motor would
Now as said, ON THE BENCH
In a gun, in actual use, the spring would slow a weak ferrite easily
So it is debatable just how big the overspin difference really is
between neodym/ferrite motors in a working gun perhaps
But I feel neodym motors only need very very slight/light AB
to stop them and even without AB they still overspin less
AB imho should be used to accurately stop the cycle on pre-cock
or when trying prevent double firing when a gun is cycling too quickly
When people use AB to prevent double firing it can be a sign of sticking switch, worn COL or most commonly just taking the piss rof
If your gun does really need AB (for set pre-cocking)
then don't or at least try not use it, or only very soft AB
I don't use AB, so any motor heat is purely down to the build itself
(than reversing the polarity at the motor)
TLDR again - yeah turn off AB if you can
Yep, already did that on every gun I own bar the Ares as the EFCS allows for fuck all customization. I rarely use semi auto anyway and when I do it takes seconds to turn it back on (at least on the ARP)
Regarding the Ares gearbox, I have yet to open it. I might do it this Saturday, so I can also figure out a way to rewire the thing to the front. Will make a new status update once I see what's gone and what's still useable.
Thanks for the help mate!
Bought a Guarder SP90 for the striker, it chronoes at 1.05J on a Guarder SP100.
One would say "good, it'll drop to 0.9something", right?
Decided to nip a coil off the SP100, power goes up to almost 1.1J...
Another coil off, 1.08..
A third of the spring is now in pieces and finally the bloody thing is below 1J....
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Specs change but SP90 seems irregular at one end...
slightly tighter at one end than the other
so you "should" have got some difference
compared to a regular spring...
(which should be same either way round)
Some other irregular springs are tighter in middle
AND one of the ends are tighter than the other...
Honestly the way the spring is fitted can make a difference
(as said I've flipped a spring to squeeze another 10fps more than once)
The SP90 or SP100 should just be tighter at one end
so should have made some slight difference
BUT like I said specs can change and be a different spring
or most likely just them qwirky airsoft gremlins
as said these spring/power stuff doesn't always follow logic
Probably why Mr Spock doesn't do airsoft
(his ears would be stinging as easy big target)
you got it sorted & that's all that matters
Yep, I am definitely gonna experiment more with this irregular spring theory. I've heard it in the past but never got to "play" with it.
SP100 is done but I still have the SP90 and I can always buy another SP100 after all it's €7.50, won't lose my sleep over that amount, plus having an extra spring in my spare parts drawer is always nice.
i just thought it was funny to cut a spring and gain power
Now I can SlAy ChEeTaHs on Sunday
Big game on Sunday with all the teams from the region.
Field looks seems to be really open.
Shall I take the sniper or sling 0.32s in my AEGs?
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Ahahahah, I'm afraid our adventures with the cheetah club are over
After "stealing" our worst members (literally, they took in a guy who doesn't call his hits unless he bleeds and another who thinks he knows it all lol), we decided to never invite them on our field again.
With that being said, I think I'll bring the AK, although I have to check the shimming as it's a bit of a whiny bitch, if I can't fix it in time then it's Honey Badger time with the specna as a backup.
I have ML rubbers in all my guns, so hopping them rocks isn't really a problem..
BOIS I NEED HELP!
(Nice clickbait huh?)
for real tho.
A mate of mine has an Amoeba CCR for sale, externally it's OK but internally it's utter shit, all grindy and runs at sub 20 RPS on a beefy 11.1...
I have a Honey Badger, internally it's great but I want a super short rifle with a folding stock.
Would it be worth to swap bodies?
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I just rebuilt the HB in its stock form, with the super unbalanced and heavy OEM 9" rail. It's uncomfortable but it does look good, especially with the FF carry handle (which I bought FYI ).
also chronoed it, 0.96J (good) and 16 RPS on a 11.1 (meh).
New motor's coming in next week (debating whether or not putting the ifrit 25k or the incoming SHS high torque in there, any tip?).
I've already seen that AY thingy, what bugs me is the metal receiver.
Not because of the weight (2070g vs 1930 of the Ares and I can still send it to a friend to be skeletonized and shave some grams off) but because after a while all the metal body guns I've seen turned into wobbly cunts. Definitely inviting for the price (apart from the weird gearbox shell).
I'll check on another teammate who has a CCR, it's been rebuilt recently and runs somewhat smooth.
Ifrit is more expensive
25k and main point is it has an " O " type pinion
The SHS HT is 30k (ish), has a D type pinion
To me it falls to performance/price and ease of pinion replacement. Even if you got a pinion puller, if you can get or already have spare pinions that some might mesh with bevel being used
SHS do both type of pinions anyway
If you got a puller then it boils do to the price/performance & availability I guess
Both are good motors
If you got an ifrit in your gun then you don't HAVE to change it like you would if you had a later STD 18k G&G grey motor
If people find the 25k Blue "Powerful Motor" ferrite motor
or better still the Orange Ifrit in their new G&G then they don't really need a new motor is what I mean
tough call but price performance I'd probably go for SHS
but if a Ifrit came in gun or lightly used one came along for a cheap price I'd consider it
as said think price/availability along with pinion etc...
will dictate which one is better - but both are decent
Asked because I already have an ifrit (it's in my arp at the moment), since I'm getting another SHS HT/13:1 combo I thought I'd slap the SHS stuff in the ARP and use the 25k on the Ares.
I'll give it a try tomorrow and see what happens
Not looking at 27 RPS/7.4 type of performance tho.
but ffs 16 RPS on a 11.1 is just meh
Time to redo all the loadouts!
Move your ass G&G and release the SSG-1 drop stock and handguard already!
Fuck's sake, I need to build my stupid tournament gun!
Can't you get a drop stock adapter 3d printed?
I swear I don't get some people.
1st game after the summer break, we invite the infamous cheater club (ye ye why are we inviting them... More people at the field, more targets to shoot at, that's why).
TL;DR version is that everything went well until the last 3 games, at that point nobody was calling his hits anymore 😕
Spotted the enemy sniper and dumped about half a flash mag on his forehead (before anyone goes full KM, it was the only thing I could see) from close distance (under 10 metres), only to be shot in the neck by a G18 burst as I closed in on him. Meh, took it and didn't complain, he looked like Jesus Christ with his crown of thorns, 'twas enough for me.
Last game was surreal though, one guy and I did a super long flank on the enemy defenders until we stumbled upon this girl who was looking the other way (she somehow didn't hear us and we almost missed her entirely), at this point I aim at her butt, flick to semi but the gun doesn't fire, she notices that we are both aiming at her from literally 3 metres, raises her gun but I've already vanished behind cover. My teammate went behind the very tree she was hiding in before she could let the first shot off.
She tried to burst my ass but I had switched to the AAP and put 4 rounds in her mask, my teammates pops out of cover and puts another 3 in her side, meanwhile she sweeps the void in a somewhat desperate attempt to hit us as we were on her 3 and 9 o'clock from her position.
She calls the hit and rushes to our club's president to call us out because we "blatantly cheated"..
Fuck's sake it was going soooooo well
Imagine going on a bike holiday with your old man.
Imagine having the worst luck possible throughout the trip.
Imagine him crashing in the most retarded way ever, completely destroying his right knee ligaments.
Just when we reached the best places..
Fucking deans, such a pain to solder..
I suddenly want to move to Crimea