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I’ve copied this from one of the TM Discord servers. Ollie is still putting up the good fight

Possibly been mentioned before but is it possible to have a 'back to the top' button on the pages so after we have scrolled down the topic we can quickly get back to look at another rather than going through the tedious scroll up scenario?? Many thanks, Pete

I have the E&C M110a1 , it’s a decent replica build wise , the plastic furniture is a bit meh with poor stock to tube fit , but otherwise not bad at all , reasonable price at around £325 new ( when I bought mine ) . Mags are cheap , it was running a bit warm out of the box so for the time being it’s had a lower spring popped in , eventually though I’ll get it fitted & fettled for a proper DMR . Might even see a day out in anger after that 😛 if they follow suit with the G28 I don’t think it’ll be a bad platform to build from at all .

You already have one, on your keyboard, called "Home".

Or via the trigger

They both come with the Gate Aster programmable MOSFET. So yes, they both have a decent fire control system. If you want to program them though you will need either the Gate USB-Link or the Gate Blu-Link.

So having seem many photos of Explosive reactive armour blocks mounted to things It shouldn't be me and my friend got to talking about a dumb idea. I present you the first result of said dumb idea! The molle mountable kontact-1 ERA block! Ignore the colour. I got it cheap so I use it for prototyping. Will be in green for the final versions and maybe a stencil on top for the full meme effect

As others have posted, use it for at least 1 full game day before looking at potential upgrades. This will give a better idea of what, if anything, needs changing. That being said, the most likely things that'll need changing will be the hop rubber and spring. Fortunately these are both easily done

I'm currently trying to do that with my TM 417. 2 things are stopping me 1) the gearbox is shagged and needs to go to a tech 2) the front rail screws are holding on harder than Jimmy Saville in a morgue

Ah, didn't know that. Probably why it's one of the keys that looks brand spanking new on my keyboard. 🤣 Will have to give that a try. Cheers.

Invest in a couple of adjustable nozzles which have helped me greatly with fault finding if the nozzle is suspect. Once you have the right nozzle length you can go buy the right one. Also tappet plates can be bent forwards or back wards at the time of manufacture and/or have mouldings that prevent them going fully forward. You can heat the tappet plates to get them back to 90 degrees and remove the mouldings. Some times the gearbox itself has casting protrusions which catch some tappet plates and not others. Both my mp5s and g36s have a style of hop unit that locates loosely into the gearbox. I mod mine so that they are better located by sleeving the hop and drilling the gearbox.

Spent the last 45 minutes looking for my tan P-mags. Before realising I probably don't own tan P-Mags.

🤣

At least it’s easier than the Perun (imho)!

Ultimately it's a longer, semi only version of their standard 417. General consensus seems to be that they're a solid V2.5 style gearbox so should have plenty of volume to be DMR material. I'm certainly looking at the standard 417 to make into a Benghazi/13 hours style DMR.

I dug through one of my many boxes of bits, and found an Ultimate Sig 550 air nozzle at 22.2mm long. I might try that and see what effect it has.

Use it for a while and then decide what needs doing. Not before you buy the thing.

I have the same gun with similar issues. Following with interest!

Great looking replica Bring on the 50 shades of doo-doo 👌

Hop rubber and nub. Cheap as chips, and worth while. Especially with specna’s as their hop units seem to always be full of grease/oil. Personally I’d go for a maple leaf 50/60 degree and an omega nub.

Ideally the nozzle should be pushing into the feedlips when fully forwards. It may be the case that a given bucking has short or long feedlips too, eg maple leaf macarons tend to be a smidge longer which in some hop units is a prpblem, but the reverse of a shorter feedlip can give the same issue. Too long you'll get feeding issues as even when fully retracted it'll protrude enough to mess with feeding. Too short you'll get terrible airseal manifesting as low energy (for the spring that's in it) and big jumps shot-shot, this can either be measured at chrono or if you observe vertical dispersion. It's worth noting that even with the correct length nozzle, if the tip is damaged it won't seal well and give the same symptoms, whilst you *can* shorten nozzles i tend to advise against it unless you have access to the tools to make a clean square cut. Also worth seeing if the hop unit itself is well secured relative to the gearbox, ie it's not being allowed to move forwards.

Nuprol make very little. They tend to just rebrand other peoples stuff. Every once in a while they rebrand something good. Even a broken clock is right twice a day!

Ok, so I woke up early today and decided to tinker with it again before work. I tested it with the stock bucking & barrel set up and it fed fine, so I went back to the previous one and changed out the bucking. (Was an XT barrel and guarder bucking, now both XT, courtesy of @ak2m4😀) and it's running ok, just like the stock set-up; currently coming in at around 1.08J with no hop. I Still have the slight gap between the bucking and nozzle though, so that's still something I could look at fixing, it'll just take some experimenting to find what length nozzle I need.

The nozzle must insert itself into the lips at least a little to create a seal and in my guns the nozzle penetrates the lips enough so that they are past the taper of the nozzle. You'll get misfeeds and air escaping into the magwell if the nozzle and lips aren't working right. Different hop units and buckings sit differently and hop units in particular can be sized differently than an original for example and need longer or maybe shorter nozzles.

So I got home early today and caught the wife in bed with my best friend. I went mad and called her some bad names and told her to pack her bags and go and live with her mother and that I wanted a divorce My best friend didn't get off lightly either. I told him "Bad dog Rover,bad dog!"and made him sleep in the garden.

When I upgraded my L96 (not a TM, but same sounding issue), the bolt would not lock back because the piston that I had added to it was a fraction too long, and was not moving back far enough to catch on the trigger sear. This was relatively easily rectified with a few MMs taken off with a file from the rear of the part of the piston that should be caught by the sear. If yours has sorted itself out, then smashing, but if it rears its head again, something to think about maybe.

They rioted in Great Yarmouth tonight and looted Shoezone. Everything but the work boots were stolen.

Ghm9

Staccato build 💪🏻

Just when you think you are running a nice pew for the day, you get trumped when the dude who’s LevAr shat itself , slaps a Hephestus GHK Groza on the table Talk about wetting myself 😍

Anyone else get a slight moment of panic when they see this thread has been updated?