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THE TM MWS thread


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On 02/04/2023 at 17:17, cart3rlfc said:

Hello, what are the recommend nozzles if you can't source a tm one?

G&P or GunsModify 👍

 

If you are really stuck the AngryGun v2 nozzle seems a better option than the original pile of poo they released…

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19 hours ago, Hecker said:

Would molybdenum dysulfide like abbey lt2 be good for lubricating the bolt or is there something better 


Google Super Lube Multi Purpose Synthetic Grease

Grey tube, does any thing and everything and wont eat your seals.

Brilliant video (And I HIGHLY recommend their other videos)
 


 

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38 minutes ago, Cipher-032 said:


Google Super Lube Multi Purpose Synthetic Grease

Grey tube, does any thing and everything and wont eat your seals.

Brilliant video (And I HIGHLY recommend their other videos)
 


 

thanks for your help very much appreciated 

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What aftermarket buffer tube is the closest in dimensions and length to the stock one, but improved to use with green gas and avoid blowing the cap? Any one piece cnc'd tubes like gm or bjtac?

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1 hour ago, Whats said:

Did a test last week of ASG’s full gas range through my stock MWS for science so you don’t have to.

 

Devil Blaster .25 with hop set for .25

23c on all 4 magazines measured with a digital thermometer.

F9E2CADD-99B0-4F9D-8139-AB4392EB087C.thumb.jpeg.b96dfd702d0d11899d5ca5e36780a959.jpeg

 

9B248E00-EC41-4A95-9371-B19C2ADE4DEF.thumb.jpeg.8453b3b711d0464de5e23886b4ed20e7.jpeg

 

Good work!

1) I am guessing those results are on Joules?

2) I have workshop envy 🤑

 

 

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1 hour ago, SSPKali said:

 

Good work!

1) I am guessing those results are on Joules?

2) I have workshop envy 🤑

 

 

Hi mate,

 

yes they are indeed in J. my biggest take was that ultrair & green only just sit over the limit at what is realistically the warmest temp we’re going to be playing in in the UK. The charts on the side of the cans make it easy to work out which of the orange/red is most suitable when it’s colder.

 

&& I’d love to say thanks, but sadly it’s not my workshop 😂 
 

 

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I've just ordered a SixG Supernub, was wondering though.

Wont it eventually cut the bucking cause its so hard?

 

Also, which nozzle spring set should you get? Do you need a regular, 120%, 150%?

Edited by itsme
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On 13/04/2023 at 15:19, itsme said:

I've just ordered a SixG Supernub, was wondering though.

Wont it eventually cut the bucking cause its so hard?

 

Also, which nozzle spring set should you get? Do you need a regular, 120%, 150%?


Ive had mine for years. It leaves a witness mark on the rubber but no cuts.

For Nozzle spring strength, you only need to up is rate if you increase your ROF dramatically. I would think that makes sense. So stock to 120% should be perfectly fine

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On 13/04/2023 at 15:19, itsme said:

Also, which nozzle spring set should you get? Do you need a regular, 120%, 150%?

Whichever you choose, spares. 

 

I've got some TM originals, a couple of Guns Modify 150% ones and I've just bought a pair of the BavTac 140% springs. 

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On the hunt for a couple of TM 35 round mags, but struggling, anyone come across any in stock?

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The bavtac zet plate is nice and I just installed it but the bavtac nub certainly does not agree with the MR HOP maple leaf bucking. I have a laylax hop up unit though so dont know if that has anything to do with it but the bavtac nub with the MR HOP bucking just doesn't work for me, persistent jams.

 

I'm of the same opinion that the bavtac nub should be used with the regular type hop up mounds.

 

Side note.....six g nub and MR HOP bucking is very wow, good results.

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5 hours ago, Katana said:

The bavtac zet plate is nice and I just installed it but the bavtac nub certainly does not agree with the MR HOP maple leaf bucking. I have a laylax hop up unit though so dont know if that has anything to do with it but the bavtac nub with the MR HOP bucking just doesn't work for me, persistent jams.

 

I'm of the same opinion that the bavtac nub should be used with the regular type hop up mounds.

 

Side note.....six g nub and MR HOP bucking is very wow, good results.

 

Interesting. I think I mentioned earlier in the thread that I've picked up the BavTac Zet plate and a couple of nubs. My plan is to get another MWS, test it completely stock, then fit the Zet plate and nub, but keep the TM hop and bucking as is. I may also experiment with some different nozzles too. 

 

I have the feeling that my stock MWS with brass nub will still be best 😂

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13 hours ago, C-Diddy said:

I have the feeling that my stock MWS with brass nub will still be best 😂

You may well be right there. I have ( internally) a bone stock MWS bar the Six-G nub. Its had around 13000 rounds through it so far and I feel it is properly bed in now. I used it sunday. The trigger feels locked in now, Perfect wall and crisp break. The bbs seem to be shooting straighter than ever. Super consistent. Whilst in spawn before game starts I was able to aim at random bbs on the floor a good 5 - 10 meters away and hit them in 1-3 shots. And at around 30 meters able to hit things around 2inch square consistently. That's more than accurate enough for me. They really do seem to get better after around 10k rounds. 

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16 minutes ago, Khyber said:

 They really do seem to get better after around 10k rounds. 

 

I haven't got that many rounds through mine yet, but now warmer days are here, I'm hoping to get more time with it. The biggest battle has been purely temperature related.

 

I will 100% not change anything internally on my existing MWS. I'm just curious to see what effect certain internal "upgrades" will have when i pick a new one up. Like I said, I fully expect after fucking about with it, to go back to the stock set-up with a SixG nub 😆

 

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1 hour ago, C-Diddy said:

 

I haven't got that many rounds through mine yet, but now warmer days are here, I'm hoping to get more time with it. The biggest battle has been purely temperature related.

 

I will 100% not change anything internally on my existing MWS. I'm just curious to see what effect certain internal "upgrades" will have when i pick a new one up. Like I said, I fully expect after fucking about with it, to go back to the stock set-up with a SixG nub 😆

 

That's just reminded me I missed one other internal mod. An RA tech NPAS. Allows to tune power up and down based on temperature. I can still get 350fps in winter (indoors in a unheated warehouse) on standard green gas. 

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2 hours ago, Khyber said:

That's just reminded me I missed one other internal mod. An RA tech NPAS. Allows to tune power up and down based on temperature. I can still get 350fps in winter (indoors in a unheated warehouse) on standard green gas. 

I have thought about an NPAS, so will probably add it to the list. Good shout. 

 

I don't generally play CQB but I am curious to go to an indoor site and see how I get on.

 

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Does anyone have a concise guide to mods needed to run an MWS on regular green gas properly and reliably nowadays?

Either freshly written, or just linking to an old post/thread/anything? I assume it's been discussed before, but occasional reminders are good. Also most stuff seems to be written around the v2 TM mags, I'm pretty sure I have the v3... Or, whatever version is latest. Regular green gas just spews out and only shoots half a mag at most no matter the fill techniques.

I'm just running mine back on low power gas right now as I've found it the most reliable thing to do, but I know a lot of people do run them, or want to run them, on regular pressure green gas given how common it is here in the UK over low pressure gas.

Edited by KirbyHCI
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6 hours ago, KirbyHCI said:

Does anyone have a concise guide to mods needed to run an MWS on regular green gas properly and reliably nowadays?

Either freshly written, or just linking to an old post/thread/anything? I assume it's been discussed before, but occasional reminders are good. Also most stuff seems to be written around the v2 TM mags, I'm pretty sure I have the v3... Or, whatever version is latest. Regular green gas just spews out and only shoots half a mag at most no matter the fill techniques.

I'm just running mine back on low power gas right now as I've found it the most reliable thing to do, but I know a lot of people do run them, or want to run them, on regular pressure green gas given how common it is here in the UK over low pressure gas.

Nothing should 'need' to be modded, to run higher power gas. I run mine on ZeroOne gas or currently vorsk V8 as I ran out of ZO. Supposedly you will eventually need to replace the nozzle return spring as this is likely to be the first thing to give from higher powered gas. I'm at around 13k rounds all with standard UK powered gas,  Not 144a and yet to have anything break. 

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45 minutes ago, Khyber said:

Nothing should 'need' to be modded, to run higher power gas. I run mine on ZeroOne gas or currently vorsk V8 as I ran out of ZO. Supposedly you will eventually need to replace the nozzle return spring as this is likely to be the first thing to give from higher powered gas. I'm at around 13k rounds all with standard UK powered gas,  Not 144a and yet to have anything break. 


I more mean, the mags just won't take regular gas. I trust the internals of the gun itself to handle regular gas, but in the mags there seems to be some kind of valve that just doesn't allow for it. No matter the fill amount or technique, it just vents it and then only fires like half a mag in semi, or essentially just a burst on auto. 

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This seems to be common with v3 mags, I have v3 mags and have had a similar issue. 

 

My "work around" has been to use ultra air gas and abbey. Nuprol has been hit and miss and using propane was a complete waste. 

 

My suspicions are around the nozzle on the gas not fitting into the valve quite right, rather than the gas itself. Add onto that I'm a gbbr noob and I didn't want to mess with it over cold games, so just getting it back into action. 

Edited by Emergencychimps
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51 minutes ago, KirbyHCI said:


I more mean, the mags just won't take regular gas. I trust the internals of the gun itself to handle regular gas, but in the mags there seems to be some kind of valve that just doesn't allow for it. No matter the fill amount or technique, it just vents it and then only fires like half a mag in semi, or essentially just a burst on auto. 

Sorry I'm with you. Mine are v2 and no issues. Like mentioned could be the nozzle of the gas can. Some brands are quite short and only just fit. You can get a little nozzle extension... maybe worth a try. From experience. Abbey and ZO (made by abbey) are on the short side and when filling the rim where the cap attaches the can touches the mag. But vorsk are much longer and easily reach into the valve without the rim touching the mag.

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10 hours ago, KirbyHCI said:

Does anyone have a concise guide to mods needed to run an MWS on regular green gas properly and reliably nowadays?

Either freshly written, or just linking to an old post/thread/anything? I assume it's been discussed before, but occasional reminders are good. Also most stuff seems to be written around the v2 TM mags, I'm pretty sure I have the v3... Or, whatever version is latest. Regular green gas just spews out and only shoots half a mag at most no matter the fill techniques.

I'm just running mine back on low power gas right now as I've found it the most reliable thing to do, but I know a lot of people do run them, or want to run them, on regular pressure green gas given how common it is here in the UK over low pressure gas.

 

The mags will take all types of gas, as said its the different can/fill nozzles that are the problem.

Obv dont take the piss with them, IE dont put fill them with the most powerful gas / propane in the height of summer.

 

Gas power/type should be changed according to weather/temperature to MAINTAIN a consistent FPS year round.

If you want to increase the FPS of the gun, use a longer barrel and or NPAS type doohicky.

 

The only thing the MWS really needs to handle more powerfull gas / higher FPS settings is a HSB or similar to stop the buffer from shattering.

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