Jump to content
Airsoft Forums UK

Katana

Members
  • Content count

    161
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    N/A

Katana last won the day on December 11 2016

Katana had the most liked content!

About Katana

  • Rank
    AF-UK Regular

Profile Information

  • Guns
    G&P M4 Block II (Fully Custom gearbox with Prommy TB and flat hop set up)
  • Loadouts
    Standard Multicam Setup ;'(
  • Sites
    Airsoft Plantation
    Skirmish Airsoft

Recent Profile Visitors

981 profile views
  1. Katana

    JAmp5

    Overall rating (1 - 10): 10 Would you deal with the trader again (Yes / No): YES Any other comments: Quick sale, good comms, extremely well packaged, sent quickly, no trouble at all
  2. Katana

    Some help with a KWA RM4 Ronin

    I took apart my one last night and put it back together, what are you getting stuck on? Use some needle nose pliers and poke it into the end of the buffer tube holes diagonally and twist to loosen it off and open it. Take out everything inside all the way up to the spring inside the gearbox. Then unscrew bottom of the buffer tube rail holding the wiring and unclip the connectors near the castle nut. You do not need to take the whole buffer tube off. Unscrew the pistol grip as normal. Leave the mag release in and leave the bolt catch in, you do not need to take these out. To split the receivers, pop the front pin and pull the charging handle slightly. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE FAKE BOLT AS IT IS MADE OF CHEESE and the dust cover usually snags on the front body pin so lift it up when taking receiver off. The screws are torx although I have rm4a1 gen 3 and am not sure if ronin is exactly the same with only slight differences but on mine they are torx. Pop the trigger pin and pop the rear body pin and she should wiggle loose and then the gearbox. There is only one small phillips screw that you need to remove that is really obvious as the piece that the screw is holding is covering one of the screws right by where the trigger assembly is in the corner. There is a little spring underneath the latch so take care to know which direction it was facing otherwise worst case you will have to guess a couple times but when you reasseble the latch, it should want to stay down and keep moving down towards the motor when you lift it up. Pop all the normal gearbox screws and remove the warranty sticker and that's it. Actually easier than a normal v2 in my opinion. However, like a muppet I pulled on a wire a little too hard and the wire actually snapped so be careful otherwise you will be soldering joints for an hour. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN ANYTHING. The screws and nuts will stop moving when they are tight enough, especially the buffer tube end plate, it will just stop, don't tighten it anymore.
  3. Katana

    TM Recoil Shock 416D Upgrade Reliability Advice

    I really appreciate the help guys. I know jcheeseright has worked on a number of TM Recoil Shocks and tbh I'm at the point in airsoft where I am not as fussed with performance and just want the thing to work, have a decent fps so I can use heavier ammo and have an acceptable trigger response so that I wont lockup every 5 seconds when I spam the trigger which doesn't happen to me on the 416 as long as I pull the trigger all the way through and let it fully reset as well. I will follow your advice and purchase an M100 spring and I might chuck a cheeky flat nub in there and a prommy purple + AOE correction because I suppose it can only help but that is all. Hopefully it will last me for a while and if anything fails, I'll just upgrade it as I go when replacing what's broken. Thanks guys.
  4. So after a lot of research, I've seen many people talk about this and that when it comes to upgrading the recoil shocks and I just want a straight answer from someone that owns one. I do not really care about upgrading trigger response and such because I believe it is perfectly adequate and am waiting for the Gate Titan NGRS release later on this year and maybe early next but until then I can wait. What I want, is to upgrade the fps and accuracy/range but keep or improve the notorious reliability of this HK416 Delta/all tm rs. This is where I come to a crossroads, what exactly do I need to do to keep this thing running well for years. I just want around 340fps or slightly under. Is the PDI 6.05 barrel better in terms of accuracy than the prommy 6.03 and if possible, how can I get hold of an EDGI barrel? Do I need to 100% replace the bushings and which ones should I go with? Does the spring guide need replacing? Does the nozzle have an o-ring in it and is it worth upgrading to create a better air seal for better fps variation? Are the gears needing to be replaced? Should I correct AOE? I have airlab sorbo/neoprene pads handy Is it worth reshimming? Sounds pretty good already to me but up for anything I'm looking to flat hop the bucking and add a firefly nub, should I stick with the TM bucking to flat hop or get the prommy purple/maple leaf one? I've been using the facebook tm recoil page for ages and reddit scouring it trying to find solid decisions and everyone has got a different opinion so I thought I'd just make a post to just get a straight answer for once. Thanks.
  5. Nothing has been changed internally except an m120 spring cut down to make fps a hair under 350 and externals have been changed Only thing i think it could be which is what I'm asking about is the pts epg-c grip. I have read posts stating that the wires have to be routed a certain way otherwise the grip angle will be off and thus the motor misaligned. My question is, can this place excess stress on the piston to cause it to fail so quickly. Furthermore the gun is being run on an 11.1v 25c lipo and seemed to die incredibly quickly the second i switched to full auto so to me it sounds like pme. Is this a possibility with only roughly 26-28 rps going through it if that. On this recoil system, is installing a swiss cheesed piston going to be a bad idea due to the extra stress on the piston in order to pull the recoil weight and spring. I just think a Swissed shs piston with AOE corrected may do the trick but no idea if it'll hold up under all that. The kwa piston has been ripped to pieces twice now though and I'm just looking for solutions. Yes, I have sent it back for repair with the same thing happen again in under 500 shots the time after and the guy is sending me a whole new gearbox but i want to make sure the same thing isnt going to happen here and also want to understand what is going wrong Thanks
  6. Katana

    London People!

    If you live in London, it isn't that far from The Mall so I would try that. Depending on what side of London you live of course. There is the Bunker 51 site but never been and not many others nearer the centre.
  7. Katana

    TM 416D Does it need upgrades?

    Kind of a longshot but do you know how often they come back in stock? I heard someone say they come in stock once a year or something like that. Also, what about the shimming and how does that come out of the box? Does increasing the fps to 330ish really have that much of a reliability hit? I have used a low fps gun before for a while and I saw a massive improvement when I increased my fps by about 40 in being able to hit moving targets much more easily instead of having this stupidly long lead over the guy and my range increased a bit too. I started being able to use heavier bb's as well. I'm definitely not disregarding your advice at all but just curious if I can get away with upping that fps or does it really impede it by such an amount that I should stay away?
  8. Katana

    TM 416D Does it need upgrades?

    Okay so at the end of the month, I'm splashing the f*ck out on TM goodness with the 416 CAG style gun from fire support with mags and sights and all sorts of sh*t I'm going to regret in the near future financially XD. Now my question is does it need any upgrades or anything done to it? At the moment I'm thinking an fps upgrade which fire support do offer which saves me doing it, however they want to replace the gears with Lonex ones as well which share the same ratio so the only thing I can see improving is the longevity but is changing the gears even necessary? Should I get the AOE corrected when it fires at such a low ROF? Should I get it rewired because apparently the resistance is very high? Should I have the bushings replaced for steel bushings? I would imagine nothing would be wrong with the piston and yet I see people changing the piston head over for a Lonex POM one. I can't find a BTC next gen spectre in stock anywhere. Basically, there are a lot of different views out there on the internet and a lot of conflicting advice and I am just wondering what the best way to tackle these possible issues are as after using something that performed amazingly but kept going down during the game, I just want something that will work and not crap out on me in 6 months. Just need a clear cut answer as to which is the best route to take. Thanks Guys.
  9. Katana

    Airsoft Plantation - Essex

    Been going for 2 years to this site, not religiously but probably at least once in every 2 months. It happens just like any site but in my experience, it is definitely very rare. YOu just drew the short straw attending on this particular day. When you notice people cheating, just start shooting people more than you usualy would and I've noticed that it slowly fizzles out. I.E. Instead of shooting someone once, 2 or 3 times means there is no possibility for argument as it is so blatantly obvious and when they clock on that you know they are cheating, they tend to stop. That's just from my encounters with the site.
  10. Katana

    Contradictory battery instructions

    When I bought my G&P gun from them it had the same 7.2v sticker on it. It's a croc of sh*t and makes no sense. Besides the fact that they completely screwed me over with the gun that I bought and after numerous emails and calls, nothing was done, I don't use them anymore but off topic. Just use a 7.4v LiPo and ignore the 7.2v bollocks.
  11. If you haven't shimmed before, you may want to watch this one too:
  12. The gearbox is a version 2 and not a version 3. Land warrior goofed on that one. You don't need any new parts, you need maintenance. It literally needs fresh silicone rub down and possibly some new o-rings around the cylinder head. Whilst you are inside the gun, give it a fresh shim job. Just remember that springs wear in and 360fps was your spring before you broke it in. All springs will drop fps after about 1000+ rounds. Re-shim Re-lube Fresh o-rings if needed If you really want to, get a high torque motor to replace the high speed one. Your trigger response will drastically improve but your ROF will go down. It's not really needed though but the G&P M120 motor does suck balls. If it is leaking from the cylinder head, a wrap of teflon tape around it before you put it in the cylinder should be all you need. DO NOT PUT TOO MUCH ON. You will create a weak point in your gearbox and f*ck it so you only need enough. Just watch this video:
  13. Katana

    VFC 416c best cylinder, cylinder head and piston?

    If it is a protein hop, I bet it's a pretty tough hop up XD Ususally, air seal doesn't always have to be fixed by buying new parts. Open the gearbox and clean everything with some soapy water and dry it well, relube it with silicone grease for the compression parts and around the o-rings and something a bit more lasting for the mechanical parts and boom that is like an extra 10fps right there. Replace the o-rings on the cylinder and the piston head with some nice, high quality and fresh o-rings. Once it is relubed and with all the new o-rings, push the piston through the cylinder with your thumb or finger over the cylinder head and if it doesn't go inside the cylinder all the way and it just stops, boom good air seal. Then try it with the air nozzle on the cylinder head, if the piston again doesn't want to go inside all the way, boom good air seal. If you don't get a good air seal from the tests, first make sure you are doing it correctly by searching up airsoft compression tests on youtube and something will show you. If you fail the first test without the air nozzle, you might want to replace your cylinder head for a double o-ring cylinder head but usually this doesn't need to be done. Make sure that the o-ring on your piston is LOOSE. Not loose as in it can easily just slide off but loose as in if you push the o-ring to one side inside the piston head raceway, it sticks out over the edge because you need that o-ring loose to seal the gap between the piston head and cylinder better amongst other spooky tech stuff I don't know about. If you fail the second test, you may not have an o-ring inside your nozzle so replace the nozzle with one that has an o-ring inside. Prommy Purple bucking is good although chunky and thick as hell, a real fat bastard Madbull tightbore is a very good budget barrel Next you want to do the air seal for the hop up, real simple. More o-rings and teflon tape. Put bucking on and put some teflon tape over just the end and make it a very small amount otherwise you won't get the c-clip on. I don't do this personally because I don't feel I need to but it does help. Put the c-clip on and teflon over that too and again, not too much. Lastly the o-rings, apply o-rings over the barrel (so yes you will need some fairly small o-rings) and slide them all the way along the barrel until you hit the hop up edge next to the c-clip. Now apply as many as you can until you can't close the receivers and then take 1 away. Test shoot it...shoots fine? Great. Shoots poorly? Take an o-ring away. Keep taking an o-ring away until it shoot good and proppa although I wouldn't of thought you would need to take more than like 2 away MAX because you will probably start off by putting like 3-4 o-rings on before you can't put anymore on anyway. Hope that helps.
  14. Katana

    Krytac Short-Stroking

    The UK version on a 20k motor and 11.1v 25c LiPo overspins but it's very minor. I wanna get the USA performance on a UK fps.
  15. Katana

    Krytac Short-Stroking

    Okay so after using an ASG 30K motor in my M4 for a while and loving it, I was thinking of putting one into a Krytac SPR MKII. Only problem is that obviously it is the UK version so it overspins like crazy with some nice double shooting too. So as the title suggests, I was wondering if short stroking would run me into any issues as I know Krytac's are "slightly" different to the usual v2 gearboxes. I was thinking an M115 at -3 teeth which would land me under 350fps...possibly but the longer barrel might say differently. Any problems with going through with it?
×