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KirbyHCI

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About KirbyHCI

  • Rank
    AF-UK Newbie

Profile Information

  • Guns
    WELL MP-7, ASG SAS-12, Secutor Velites SII, TM P226 E2
  • Loadouts
    Corporate "Crisis Response" Tactical Team (All Black, CQB)
  • Sites
    Bristol Airsoft
  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Bristol

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  1. I noticed if buying an RIF it has to be sent direct to the actual address of the UKARA no. holder... Problem is my post isn't safe here, packages and post either get delivered to the wrong address who like to sign for/steal packages then curtain twitch while pretending to not be in if I or the delivery company goes there, or gets left in stupid places and stolen. I get all my post and packages sent to a neighbor I trust and play airsoft with sometimes (he doesn't have a UKARA no. though) I assume there's no way around this and due to the law being an ass I'm going to have to risk them getting stolen and putting RIFs in the hands of blatant theives if the delivery guy doesn't find the right address and/or doesn't actually get it signed for or hand it over face to face as they should. Do they normally check they're delivering it to the right person when it comes to RIFs? Or is there any way to have a designated safer delivery location (I doubt the latter though)
  2. Still seems like red and blue, although on some outdoor sites I've heard of general green/tan clothing teams but doesn't seem as common in the UK as the US. That or banded/unbanded, often red for banded. Slightly off topic but related: As for ID, I just use these. Cheap and cheerful. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07LG66S1Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Only downside is they don't do white and my local site tends to do red/blue/white if there's 3 teams, and most arm bands like this in green isn't really green it's hivis yellow-green. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Derbystar-Unisexs-Captaincy-4085040100-Captaincy-White/dp/B0064OXXIW/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=derbystar+white+arm+band&qid=1579011362&sr=8-3 Using this for the white. I also like to wear a shemagh in team colour and sometimes have some flag sized patches too. These come in red, blue, green and yellow. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/8792393098/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Depends on the outfit and surroundings. I tend to wear the unofficial team colour of the "non banded" side if they have one, just for quicker ID (IE. Whatever colour can be seen as obviously not the other/banded team), so my IFF can be "do they continue raising their gun, if yes I can shoot them". Too many people will wear red sleeved hoodies as blue/unbanded and such so now I just make myself super obvious and go more by threat than colour. But that's more useful in CQB/indoors than outdoors where hiding/camouflage is more appropriate.
  3. Yeah this is mainly my concern, things not being as advertised. Higher power, inadequate IR filtering, etc. I do find them useful sometimes and they'll give a position away no more than a flashlight, which is needed half the time anyway where we play. Obviously we don't use ours if somebody at a game doesn't want us to anyway, and we use pressure switches while avoiding aiming for the face. I'm just wondering if I should at least bodge an extra IR filter and maybe a little general dimming on the green one just to be safe.
  4. So I've been wondering about the safety of some cheap lasers out there, especially from overseas. I run a low power red laser that I'm sure won't blind anyone unless I jam the thing right in their eye for a good few seconds or more, but my partner's is this vicious green thing that leaves a visible line in lightly dusty air in a lit room. Most that fit its description online claim to be UK legal and eyesafe but one let slip a number nearly 4 times that limit later in the description, as if it hadn't been edited. Now it seems like a common shell (personally I think the guy ripped us off but if he wasn't it sure must be better quality than the £10 ones in the same case out there. There's me being optimistic.) and I'm sure you could stick various power diodes in the same shell, but how can anyone know what's low enough power and if it has a proper IR filter? I know some sites just outright disallow lasers, be it used or in some cases mounted at all. Would be a bit inconvenient, not to mention cost prohibitive, for sites or skirmishers to buy laser power meters. So I'm left eyeing said green laser ray of doom with caution (It is on a pressure switch, but both humans reacting, ie. close eyes/let go of button, is already inherently delayed and a bad OP green laser with no IR filter can cause pretty quick eye damage). Am I overthinking it, is it a concern most folks just ignore? Or is it an issue others consider?
  5. Edit: Definately the nozzle catching on something since installing the guarder bbu housing. Either it's coming off the piston cap and sticking at the back, or the front, possibly the bit that strips the BBs off the mag, is sticking in the chamber or mag. Not sure what to do about it though. Edit 2: I've ruled out the piston cap and barrel or mag... It seems unlikely to be the flat part in front the hammer but it only seems to get stuck when the gun is fully assembled and when firing/locking back. I've got it to fire consistently now but it still gets hammed forward pretty hard (can't push it back myself) on lockback. Original: So I managed to get my TM P226 E2 locking back again by just straight up replacing the BBU housing and re-angling the slide release catch - I used a guarder housing (the regular slide version for my regular slide lol) hoping though it's lighter, it might actually stand up to abuse a bit better than the stock one... It ran fine during initial testing in normal indoor temps and cold weather (10c~), but now it seems to jam occasionally, especially with a full mag of gas although it's not the only factor (just increases the chance of it by a large amount). The jamming was during cold testing and I haven't tested it warm again yet. It seems to me like my nozzle is sliding off and catching on the piston cap as it's extremely hard to get the nozzle over the cap when reassembling. Could this be from the extra friction of the rougher guarder BBU housing slowing down the nozzle & slide? But then it probably wouldn't do it with more gas... Or perhaps oil getting onto my piston cap and swelling it? Perhaps just a quirk of the cold? Or maybe even a combination of the lot... I've tried more oil, less oil... Doesn't seem to matter much. Sometimes it jams like this, and the magazine is hard to remove; Otherwise it'll jam like this; Feels like the nozzle is really stuck forwards, I can't push it back manually but pulling the slide back and releasing it will knock it back into place usually. I'm just using Nuprol 1.0 for now. Gas wizards unite! Pretty please... Update; I think it was the piston cap swelling. Tried a spare I forgot about and it fits much better. Will do a firing test later. Update 2: Seemed to work better but the nozzle still stuck forward on the last BB. Only fired 3 but it's too late to test any more. The nozzle slipped on the ca much better though. I should also clarify it only does it when firing, not manual manipulation.
  6. Nice. Yeah it is one of the official vinyl ones. I might do similar some time, or just see if I can squeeze it over my primary goggles reasonably after adding some vent holes. I'd have thought they'd chip real bad and you would have had to put a layer over it or something, but I guess not! I might spray the front with some clear matte lacquer I have to protect it anyway, reckon that's a good idea? Although that might be just as bad for it... I'd love gas just for the easier pump action but springer is fine, less maintenance, and gets my off arm working out a bit haha - Also should get a rifle next not more shotguns. If I had bought it new I'd have gone for the one with a stock, may just get an aftermarket one if I can confirm it'll fit. Only downside is reloading often but that's a fact for any tri-shotty, last game I got caught as the last person on the team, mid-reload, trying to defend. The guy shot 3 times, missed besides a skim across my bare arm I didn't notice until later, but I surrendered as there was no way I could get a new shell in and cock it before he pulled the trigger again. Should be able to counter that now I have a sidearm, folks say never buy a used airsoft P226 but I couldn't help myself when I saw a good deal at a bootsale and now I feel confident in fixing the damn things up lol.
  7. I used one of those masks for Halloween haha. Posed with some of my guns and gear but didn't use it in a game. How did you modify them? I'd be worried about it getting obliterated! Could be a themed game idea in there somewhere though. Unfortunately I didn't have the appropriate signature weapon for the character, but oh well. (Second finger isn't on the trigger, just weirdly wrapped around the grip/guard and looks odd lol) My actual airsoft getup is more along these lines... I keep using cheapo primaries and spending all my money on other stuff, so excuse the springer shotgun. Although I play entirely CQB right now so if it ain't broke... Also I really need to find the actual decent resolution photo of that, all I could find was this lowres one. Will edit if I find it. -Currently using a second hand Secutor Velites SII with a cheapo light and low power red laser combo as a primary, more than enough shells to not have to constantly refill them on the vest. -TM P226 E2 bought second hand pre-upgraded with a tighter inner barrel and maple leaf bucking (although I hear TM is top there anyway so may not do much for it), didn't lock back but otherwise worked fine. Changed the slide to a stainless coloured one but kept it plastic, replaced the BBU housing with a guarder lighter one as both stock TM BBU housings I have were slightly worn, still not locking back and I was hoping the guarder one would be stronger despite being lighter. Got 5 mags, belt and IMI holster and mag holders with the P226. 2 of the mags leaked bad but a quick disassembly and lubing up of the seals fixed that. One has a busted feed lip which will be easy enough to replace. -Goggles are legit Revision desert locusts, the fan version, with prescription inserts. I got so sick and tired of OTT fogging I always seem to suffer from I figured my main recent budget would go on minimising the issue as much as possible. -Headset is awesafe. No mic but I have tinnitus so I use them so I can still hear people but it mutes pyro a little. Not pictured is the radio setup that I can attach to them with a 3.5 jack and I use cheapo retevis speakermic as my mic, plugged into a cheapo Retevis.. R24s? I think. -Trousers from verusteleka.com (I love 'em) -Shirt some cheapo UBACS style shirt from amazon. -Vest and pouches all just cheapy MOLLE things mostly from amazon. I just had the rifle/SMG mag pouches on there for the lols, normally I'd have either those if using my partners MP7 or just the shotgun shell pouch and shell loops. -First aid kit is just a booboo kit with home first aid stuff for post-game nicks, cuts, BBs stuck in places. No need for a real IFAK with no medical training, but a realistic combat loadout should always have something that looks like one IMO lol. -Kneepads are alta, boots are from 'vegetarian shoes' as I'm a dirty vegetarian and won't buy new leather. They have foldable/removable ice studs and are pretty damn comfy. Finish wears on the outside quite fast though but then I always do suck at looking after boots. Positioning isn't final, haven't actually run a game to test everything with the latest setup yet as I've been busy or ill for ages. I was using cheaper goggles, a less practical shirt, a different shotgun, no sidearm for the last couple games. And yes I know it's an absolute mess of cheap and expensive crap. Edit: Not the same pics in high quality, but other closeup angles of various things (I like my loadout to be plausibly realistic over truly practical. Also bit more of a workout haha..), minus a radio setup me and some friends split the cost of.
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