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KirbyHCI

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About KirbyHCI

  • Rank
    AF-UK Newbie

Profile Information

  • Guns
    WELL MP-7, ASG SAS-12, Secutor Velites SII, TM P226 E2
  • Loadouts
    Corporate "Crisis Response" Tactical Team (All Black, CQB)
  • Sites
    Bristol Airsoft
  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Bristol

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  1. 55bd7c52833ff8d6441471fa925d5ea4.png
    Are you or anybody you know experiencing symptoms of COVID-19 virus? Contact your nearest HitCorp International representative immediately for expedited 'treatment' 😷

    😛

    1. Rogerborg

      Rogerborg

      Ze goggles, ze do nuzzing.

       

      Especially if you don't wear them.

  2. Yeah sorry, most of it is probably irrelevant or outdated now anyway. I shouldn't care so much since all these issues are just me making problems to fix minor problems and trying to find a combo that works heh. Slightly old (not sure of exact age), decent nick. Only aftermarket parts were a 6.01mm barrel (Can't remember the brand now) and maple leaf hop up bucking. Second slide & BBU I'm using for spares and swaps is basically the same story. Got it used, just didn't lock back due to a worn BBU housing. Tried another BBU housing but that wore down fast straight away so I tried a guarder lightweight housing. That fixed the lock back (except on one mag, which was the mags fault) but introduced a jam with a stuck forward nozzle. I fixed the total jam with some finessing and wearing in but the nozzle still stuck forward wehen it locked back on empty most of the time, no matter what I did except for putting a 1mm thick washer on the recoil spring (I know, wtf?). All seemed ok, then I was testing it a bit more in depth with different mags and the nozzle sticking forward when locking back empty returned. Not a huge deal, but in trying to investigate the cause of that just for my own sanity, I disassembled, inspected, cleaned, and reassembled, and the failure to lock on empty most of the time returned, and the nozzle still sticks the few times it does. Basically, it now runs like crap in all configurations, even the one it ran fine in (and has now slightly chewed the piston cap from that configuration due to running it too dry while trying to see if the piston cap having swelled from too much oil was the issue). I expect it's me missing some obvious core issue. I'm testing one last idea a sec (basically reassembling from the best parts as carefully and tightly as possible, cleaned and very lightly oiled) then I'll write up a fresh more concise and current sitrep. If this fixes it I can just slap myself for being irritable and stupid. (Edit: Nope didn't work, although now it behaves better slightly more often)
  3. Ok this issue is doing my head in. It's come back with a vengeance, this time with no sign of wear on the nozzle housing where the slide catch makes contact, and in every configuration with multiple of each part interchanged in the BBU. Two different piston heads, two stock BBU housings and one aftermarket guarder lightweight, two different nozzles, etc. etc. Doesn't matter if it's slightly short stroked like I found fixed it originally or not. I noticed one piston head got chewed up after I tried letting it dry out in case it had oil swelling it up. But the one that does have some oil on it behaves exactly the same, it just doesn't get chewed. The nozzle jams forward 85% of the time AND it doesn't lock back consistently on empty (if I just dry fire like mad, it eventually locks back.). I would just get someone to look at it but everyone I contact says they don't do repairs or maintenance anymore, even if they advertise themselves as doing so. That or I get no reply even if they're actively trading as a shop. I want to throw the whole damn thing in the bin at this point it's pissing me off that much. Anyone got any ideas before a theoretically perfectly good TM P226 gets a hammer to it out of frustration?
  4. I fog and rain out like a haunted bog at 4am during a rainstorm. I splashed out and got the fan revision desert locusts and a thermal duel pane lens... They don't fog at all so I think I went overkill, but the bastard prescription inserts still fog and press against my long luscious and annoying AF eyelashes. If you don't wear glasses your options are much wider and much more stuff will work right and can probably get away with cheaper options like the FMA Fan goggles (I had a pair, they arrived broken and that was my final straw before going all out £££ on the revisions) I also use the revision anti fog wipes, obviously. I also found a little antiperspirant on the cheeks and forehead helps, preferably from a roll on rather than a spray (I rub it on my fingers then rub my fingers where I want it), but also get in the eyes if sweat picks it up anyway.
  5. A little DIY IFF for dark CQB since the back of my head seems to be a bullet magnet for friendly fire. The only time I've been hit in the back of the head by enemy players is when I'm already dead and walking away.

    Good idea or bad? 😅

    85161132_2876802559029710_5616436369707499520_n.jpg

    84330193_2876802612363038_1534949551276818432_n.jpg

  6. Edit: Wasn't paying attention and already said most of what I was saying in my previous post, just in a different way. Haha.
  7. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gun-Grips-Rubber-Sheet-8-5-x2-Rubber-Grip-Tape-for-Guns-Phones-Tools/192660854968?hash=item2cdb7b58b8:g:bSMAAOSwiIRbmiiw I believe they speak of this sort of stuff. No idea how good it is though!
  8. I assume ones with individual padding bits that tend to cost a tiny bit more rather than a cheapo with a skate style foam all-inside lining would be better for that use-case.
  9. I have a tac-on question that's somewhat relevant but tell me to bugger off if it's a hijack - I have some active earpro so I can still hear things but the pyro doesn't set off my tinnitus. I don't really want to have to fork out on another set to wear with a helmet. My head is about 58cm I think (my tape measure isn't very handy for heads) - Would a regular headset fit under most of the helmets suggested, or would I HAVE to splurge on one that can be mounted to, or converted to mount to, side rails?
  10. Ah thanks y'all. I think I misinterpreted stuff I read about UKARA delivery based on these responses Must have missed the word billing at some point.
  11. I noticed if buying an RIF it has to be sent direct to the actual address of the UKARA no. holder... Problem is my post isn't safe here, packages and post either get delivered to the wrong address who like to sign for/steal packages then curtain twitch while pretending to not be in if I or the delivery company goes there, or gets left in stupid places and stolen. I get all my post and packages sent to a neighbor I trust and play airsoft with sometimes (he doesn't have a UKARA no. though) I assume there's no way around this and due to the law being an ass I'm going to have to risk them getting stolen and putting RIFs in the hands of blatant theives if the delivery guy doesn't find the right address and/or doesn't actually get it signed for or hand it over face to face as they should. Do they normally check they're delivering it to the right person when it comes to RIFs? Or is there any way to have a designated safer delivery location (I doubt the latter though)
  12. Still seems like red and blue, although on some outdoor sites I've heard of general green/tan clothing teams but doesn't seem as common in the UK as the US. That or banded/unbanded, often red for banded. Slightly off topic but related: As for ID, I just use these. Cheap and cheerful. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07LG66S1Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Only downside is they don't do white and my local site tends to do red/blue/white if there's 3 teams, and most arm bands like this in green isn't really green it's hivis yellow-green. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Derbystar-Unisexs-Captaincy-4085040100-Captaincy-White/dp/B0064OXXIW/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=derbystar+white+arm+band&qid=1579011362&sr=8-3 Using this for the white. I also like to wear a shemagh in team colour and sometimes have some flag sized patches too. These come in red, blue, green and yellow. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/8792393098/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Depends on the outfit and surroundings. I tend to wear the unofficial team colour of the "non banded" side if they have one, just for quicker ID (IE. Whatever colour can be seen as obviously not the other/banded team), so my IFF can be "do they continue raising their gun, if yes I can shoot them". Too many people will wear red sleeved hoodies as blue/unbanded and such so now I just make myself super obvious and go more by threat than colour. But that's more useful in CQB/indoors than outdoors where hiding/camouflage is more appropriate.
  13. Yeah this is mainly my concern, things not being as advertised. Higher power, inadequate IR filtering, etc. I do find them useful sometimes and they'll give a position away no more than a flashlight, which is needed half the time anyway where we play. Obviously we don't use ours if somebody at a game doesn't want us to anyway, and we use pressure switches while avoiding aiming for the face. I'm just wondering if I should at least bodge an extra IR filter and maybe a little general dimming on the green one just to be safe.
  14. So I've been wondering about the safety of some cheap lasers out there, especially from overseas. I run a low power red laser that I'm sure won't blind anyone unless I jam the thing right in their eye for a good few seconds or more, but my partner's is this vicious green thing that leaves a visible line in lightly dusty air in a lit room. Most that fit its description online claim to be UK legal and eyesafe but one let slip a number nearly 4 times that limit later in the description, as if it hadn't been edited. Now it seems like a common shell (personally I think the guy ripped us off but if he wasn't it sure must be better quality than the £10 ones in the same case out there. There's me being optimistic.) and I'm sure you could stick various power diodes in the same shell, but how can anyone know what's low enough power and if it has a proper IR filter? I know some sites just outright disallow lasers, be it used or in some cases mounted at all. Would be a bit inconvenient, not to mention cost prohibitive, for sites or skirmishers to buy laser power meters. So I'm left eyeing said green laser ray of doom with caution (It is on a pressure switch, but both humans reacting, ie. close eyes/let go of button, is already inherently delayed and a bad OP green laser with no IR filter can cause pretty quick eye damage). Am I overthinking it, is it a concern most folks just ignore? Or is it an issue others consider?
  15. For those who may stumble on this later; I never found out what the problem was, but I fixed the last problem, after getting it firing consistently, by adding a washer on the recoil guide rod, basically short stroking it by a millimetre or so but not enough to affect lockback. Edit: Definately the nozzle catching on something since installing the guarder bbu housing. Either it's coming off the piston cap and sticking at the back, or the front, possibly the bit that strips the BBs off the mag, is sticking in the chamber or mag. Not sure what to do about it though. Edit 2: I've ruled out the piston cap and barrel or mag... It seems unlikely to be the flat part in front the hammer but it only seems to get stuck when the gun is fully assembled and when firing/locking back. I've got it to fire consistently now but it still gets hammed forward pretty hard (can't push it back myself) on lockback. Original: So I managed to get my TM P226 E2 locking back again by just straight up replacing the BBU housing and re-angling the slide release catch - I used a guarder housing (the regular slide version for my regular slide lol) hoping though it's lighter, it might actually stand up to abuse a bit better than the stock one... It ran fine during initial testing in normal indoor temps and cold weather (10c~), but now it seems to jam occasionally, especially with a full mag of gas although it's not the only factor (just increases the chance of it by a large amount). The jamming was during cold testing and I haven't tested it warm again yet. It seems to me like my nozzle is sliding off and catching on the piston cap as it's extremely hard to get the nozzle over the cap when reassembling. Could this be from the extra friction of the rougher guarder BBU housing slowing down the nozzle & slide? But then it probably wouldn't do it with more gas... Or perhaps oil getting onto my piston cap and swelling it? Perhaps just a quirk of the cold? Or maybe even a combination of the lot... I've tried more oil, less oil... Doesn't seem to matter much. Sometimes it jams like this, and the magazine is hard to remove; Otherwise it'll jam like this; Feels like the nozzle is really stuck forwards, I can't push it back manually but pulling the slide back and releasing it will knock it back into place usually. I'm just using Nuprol 1.0 for now. Gas wizards unite! Pretty please... Update; I think it was the piston cap swelling. Tried a spare I forgot about and it fits much better. Will do a firing test later. Update 2: Seemed to work better but the nozzle still stuck forward on the last BB. Only fired 3 but it's too late to test any more. The nozzle slipped on the ca much better though. I should also clarify it only does it when firing, not manual manipulation.
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