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Personally I would never use anything that wasn't full seal. Try a pair on and see how many different angles you can poke yourself in the eye with an unjamming rod from.

Oh my god it's awful. I can't find anything anywhere as easily as the old website. And my wish list was huge - I would frequently use it to list parts for projects, ordering when budget allowed.

For just general m4 mags and playing assault, I have a kombat trojan chest rig. You can't change anything on it, but it's got enough room for everything I usually carry (4 mags, three pistol mags, two grenade pouches, admin pouch, and radio). It's held up for the last three years, no signs of coming apart at all, and I tend to drag it around on the ground when I play. I also recently got the bulle mle that @Tackle posted for my sniper loadout to sit under a ghillie. I also have something similar to what @Duff Beer posted, but made by bulle (I believe it goes by "lightweight chest rig"), that's crafted and goes on the outside of a ghille. Both of these are specifically so I don't have anything on my front, and I can lie down without mags digging into my ribs. The velcro on the top panel/pocket of the lightweight rig is coming apart so it's kind of annoying to use, but eveything load bearing is still holding up fine. These are all super cheap rigs, so I say they've easily made up their value.

Without a UKARA don't take anything that could get you stopped on the way out or on the way in.

Probably my last game day for a while because I'm probably going onto anticoagulants on Tuesday which means no airsoft until the procedure is done and the recovery is over. Unfortunately it went out with a bit of a whimper though. I took my G&P m14 and KJW m40a5 along with the intent of using the m14 with the m40a5 as a backup in case it wasn't shooting great. Suffice to say, it wasn't shooting great. The power is exactly where I want it and it's incredibly quiet for an AEG, but I think it needs a new hop rubber as the BBs just weren't really hopping very well, so the range was a bit poor. So why didn't I go back to the safe zone and grab my m40a5? Because I had no motivation to, basically. Worthing Airsoft at the moment is a pointless site to use anything with an MED at as there are only a few, very limited spots where you can actually use it. Furthermore, some of the spots that were fine now have twiggy bits in the way, which is wonderful for sending your shots off course, which isn't as much of a problem for semi or full auto guns as you can usually punch through, but single shot bolt actions? Not so much. Anyway, not much to really say. First game was a king of the hill style game over the Tower base; I took a flanking route and discovered the bottom of the site is currently unplayable. It took the entire game for me to fight my way through the foliage. When we flipped sides, I went to my normal spot and that's where I realised the m14 just wasn't firing well. The scope mount was slightly off so all my shots looked like they were going to the left, and the hop up wasn't working well so I was struggling to hit 50m. Combine that with the aforementioned twiggy bits and I had quite a few frustrating moments where I caught someone completely unawares only for my shots to either fall short or hit a twig and go to Narnia, giving them the opportunity to seek cover and get out of my line of sight. Anyway, now I have a few months of no gameplay, so I'm going to spend these game days on the range making sure my guns that need a bit of tweaking are sufficiently tweaked and also might put some DOPE cards together for my main bolt actions (KJW m40a5 and m700) and my DMRs (MWS and the MTW when I get it). It'd be nice to know reliably where to aim to hit targets out to 85m and beyond with a measure of accuracy. I did plink a little with the m40a5 today on the range and it was performing flawlessly as usual; hitting the 75m with pretty much every shot and even reaching to the 85m, but with less accuracy for sure; it's amazing how much difference that extra 10m makes.

Worth trying it with some lower pressure gas, i found anything stronger than nuprol 2.0 the mag just ain't fond of.

Guys thanks a lot cat crap on order and googles too lots of good information here thanks again I know I might be jumping the gun no Pune intended 😀but what you guys think about the MTW unleashed riffle it’s a lot of money but is a complete unit rather than air lines and bottle or it there anything comparable to it cheers again

Well, after getting invoiced £75 in customs and brokerage fees, the parcel arrived yesterday lunchtime... but at least this time the customs monkeys managed to inspect the contents without breaking anything

The thing about airsoft barrels is that ~200mm is enough to comfortably reach typical 1.14-1.2J UK site limits (and you can get there with less). There's no real benefit to going longer for <1.2J, as the BB won't remember anything about its time inside the barrel once it's out. You might even find yourself losing power and consistency as you go longer, depending on your cylinder porting and air seal. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/inner-barrels/xt-inner-barrel-aeg-601mm in 300mm would give you enough extra to support the suppressor, with some baffling space left. Airsoft is the art of the possible, there's no perfect configuration.

Yet nothing about whether the SIG sights are genuine or knock offs/qc rejects. To be honest all this sob story has done is remind me not to buy anything from whatever name this guy is trading under now

Ahoy and welcome. Airsoft is a blast, just pace yourself and keep hydrated. Fogging is a sod of an issue for a lot of us, and the number 2 rule (after don't be a dick) is to never, ever remove your eyepro in the game zone, even to clean it. It looks like TM rent out paintball style sealed masks rather than mesh, which will make it more likely that your glasses will steam up. I've tried various potions and lotions for anti-fogging, with the most successful (and expensive) being Revision anti-fog wipes, followed by Cat-Crap (yes, really) paste. Ventilation is the real solution, and if you stick with sealed goggles, Ex-Fog fans (and knock-offs) are available, or you can DIY something with a computer/3d printer cooler fan and some ducting. I run goggles in CQB for the light transmission and lack of spalling, but for outdoors, I've switched to mesh. The gold standard is @heroshark who does made-to-order and custom goggles, which means you'll need to wait quite a bit as he's always got more demand than time. Jumping off point for that is https://www.facebook.com/Heroshark/ However, more basic mesh goggles or masks work too, and your glasses will deal with the fragment problem. While I've got no love for the brand, I do think the mesh on these Nuprol goggles looks solid enough for airsoft, and they're hopefully big enough to cover your regular glasses. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nuprol-Pro-Mesh-Eye-Protection/dp/B0797R9TJ4 You'll likely want to remove the foam on those, or anything else you get, to increase airflow.

Having a new issue with my old APFG MCX (the black one not the LT), it locks back on every shot regardless if it's at the last round, even my drum mag that straight up has no bolt lock tab it's causing the gun to lock back. Can't think of anything except to stretch the spring (or switch out to a stronger one) in the lower that applies pressure on the bolt catch... 😕 wonder if it's just the heat causing the recoil to bounce everything up while it's cycling.

Are you sure it's the valve? I found the base seal of the mag really doesnt like handling anything stronger than nuprol 2.0

I have a couple of Gen 3 TM G17s and I find the hop up performance somewhat meh. I'm not trying to lift anything crazy, just 0.3s and it's just not doing it. I appreciate these are a little old now so I'm wondering if these are from a time prior to TM GBBs being able to lift 0.4s+ easily OOTB? Do I need to get a Mapleleaf chamber, barrel and hop set to get the most out of them?

Hence why I stick to bog-standard M4's for now (gonna try my hand at upgrading soon tho) so I should be able to repair/replace anything that breaks. As for anything outfit wise: I don't care if anything happens to it, I'm there to roll in the mud (really opens up those pores) and get dirty/scratched. I'm not a big fan of having kit that still looks unused/new. Hell, lot of the stuff comes from army surplus stores anyway so it already looks used and sometimes has visible repairs.

Apart from changing anything, the first and most obvious thing is to properly lube and clean the gun. A clean cylinder glides smoother and doesn't break like a gritty disgusting cylinder. Lube with PTFE as an ingredient is the current recommendation for airsoft moving parts use. To be honest, Just a spit ball - but I do own an SSG10, and compared to my SRS, the action is incredibly easy. In terms of range and (I think) power, it is incredibly similar. Im not saying buy an SSG10, but since the platforms are so incredibly similar (If not the same) then I'd look into what parts Novritsch uses to get his rifle's pull so light. Other than that, I can just +1 what Impulse is saying.