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Can you elaborate on this standard IR measurements. What you mean by using DC in 2 stages? In any case, the better chargers does show/measure the IR value. My standard method of measuring the IR value was to use 1Ohm load and check the voltage drop. The values displayed by my charger where roughly the same than the ones I got this way. I did explain that difference in the IR on the "cheap IR meter" page. What I did not specifically mention, though, is that when I use "IR" term, I mean "IR at some specific conditions". Like, when the battery is fully charged, when the load is 1 Ohm, when it is kept under load for 1s, when it is new, etc. Changing any of this, changes the IR (although not always in significant way). I might have explained that more clearly. My "C rating" post was in the "opinions" section. Probably that is why I was so short and not well described. Even I couldn't figure out what exact method I used to produce this table, which is bad. But my other page "Batteries review" describes this a little bit better. Anyways, the table has "Nominal Current", which means the current the C rating is allowing (I do understand this term might not be the best, but this is how I called it). So the Rhino battery is 2.2Ah and has 50C so the "nominal current" was assumed to be 110A. Of course measuring anything at that high current isn't easy so I did the IR measurements at lower currents but I expect the IR to only grow at higher currents, not drop, so this is still the "best case scenario". I also did not see a big variance in the IR (as the ratio of Vdrop and current) when the current was doubled for a given battery. So the calculations, for the sake of simplicity, are assuming the IR is similar for any current up to the "nominal current as specified by C rating". So, I calculated the IR by measuring Vdrop at say, 10A or 20A and then used that value to extrapolate the Vdrop that would happen if the battery was loaded with the "nominal" (again, as allowed by C rating) current. This was a quick test just to show that C-rating is just arbitrary and one can't, contrary to common myth, use this value to reason about the battery behaviour under load. The voltage the battery has under load is an important factor for me. So saying a battery is OK to be used with currents of 40C while at this current it drops its voltage by at least 50% is inappropriate in my opinion and that was all I wanted to show in this short article. Something went wrong with this paragraph as I can't understand the meaning of that. In any case, I can modulate how much current my load takes and obviously the bigger the current, the bigger the Vdrop. But some batteries will drop more voltage at the same current, some will drop more, depending on their IR. Yes, that was the exact conclusion of my article there - C rating does not reflect the current supply ability of the cells. IR is much better at that. But it is also not a constant value in the function of the load or time. The manufacturers could come up with some value that reflects the situation a little bit better, like "how much current can I roughly take from this battery for a period of 1s so that the voltage does not drop more than 10% at full capacity" or something like that. But nothing beats proper graphs showing the situation at different conditions. That is completely true. But writing such an article requires not only much more work but also usually involvement of some other people, like reviewers. Like, it's often hard to asses what is obvious and what is not, if you are the one who writes the article. Reviewer may easily spot that, though. That being said, this "C-rating" article was in the "opinions" section, the articles in "experiments" section are a little bit better at that. You know, I was not aiming at writing a scientific paper grade article and my time and resources where limited. I did do multiple runs and choose the most common/typical one for each configuration. To me, this change of current with different springs was expected - the more stiff spring creates higher resistance so the current must be bigger to start the motor. If you disconnect the motor from the gearbox and let it run freely, the "inrush" current is also much smaller. Now, I guess, the problem is again in the usage of "inrush current" term. My measuring equipment has a limited resolution/bandwidth so the actual, theoretical current peak may be the same for each setup (and it lasts some fractions of millisecond), but I can't measure that. Instead I can in practice see just the "average" current over some short periods and this is what I see on the scope. This is what I am in fact more interested in - how much current the motor takes in the first few tens of milliseconds after starting but before settling on a max speed. That takes many revolutions of the motor and this obviously is influenced by the resistance the gearbox and the spring gives. I also read many scientific papers. Of different quality. Creating a very good quality one is just *tons* of work. I did not aim at that. My aim was to do some measurements and describe them so that they are not lost. This was, in my eyes, much more than most people in airsoft do and that is why there are so many myths here. But I didn't care too much about someone being able to reproduce my experiment but I did want to describe my experiments properly and I did not succeed fully. Even if scientific method should aim for that, this is often not met in the officially published scientific papers so I feel excused for my results published on some random website All in all, the most important conclusion from the perspective of the original discussion here is that the trigger response and RoF in classic airsoft gun (without precocking, etc) depends highly on the capabilities of the battery. The biggest struggle for the battery is at the spinup of the motor as the current is very high and this may make the battery drop a lot of voltage. The smaller the voltage, the slower the motor reaches full speed and thus the worse trigger response. The max speed will also vary between batteries because the speed depends on the voltage and this depends on the voltage drop caused by the current. I can see how the supercapacitor could help the battery at the motor spinup time, when the current draw is the highest, providing the ESR of the capacitor is low enough for the current to be taken from the capacitor and not the battery itself in large portion. As was said here several times, this would have the biggest impact with NiMH batteries, and I expect it to be much smaller with beefy LiPO. I someone prefers using NiMH battery, such an approach with capacitors may give you some noticeable benefits. Would that help with LiPO? That would have to be checked. It is possible, though, especially with cheaper ones. Problem is - space. The batteries tend to be able to provide more current if they are physically bigger. So by the time you add the size of those caps to the size of the battery, you might get similar or better results by just switching to some bigger battery. Depending on the cost of the caps, it might also be cheaper. The caps, on the other hand, could be reused after switching the battery in very long games and may have a bigger lifetime. All in all, it would be good to measure if there is a noticable difference when using caps with LiPO batteries.

You could type that sentence into Google and I bet the first hit is the Hi-Capa hub. Get your Google on and if you can't find anything then the hive-mind is great to search out stuff that maybe isn't in the places you'd expect, but you'll get more out if you do some of the leg work yourself and you get to look at shiny stuff so win/win.

Will drop them and email and see if they have anything on the horizon. Looking at the price on the Fire-Support website, looks like the ICS might be a little over budget, especially considering I will need to get a few mags etc. but the burst fire might be quite nice to have… 🤔 I see. Good to hear they’re making a comeback, and hopefully their new stock will be of the same quality as the old, tried and tested units 🤞 I think this might be the way to go if I can’t justify stretching to the ICS - it’s within budget, so allows for a few mags and a couple new batteries, and maybe a few extra little niceties… Parts look to be pretty easy to get hold of like you say.

Ahoy and welcome back. 1. If you've been out for 7 years, I would have to wonder how likely it is that all 7 of you will stick with it the 2nd time round. So I'd agree with the suggestion to rent, at least for a game or two, to see if this is a renewal of your vows, or a quick booty call. Renting can look expensive, but when you consider that you'd be buying the BBs anyway, it's only actually £10-£15 for renting the gun, plus support for it, for the day. That's cheap compared to trying to sell on any RIF, or worse, an IF. 2. If you do want to buy, I agree with the list above. The cheapest M5xx M4 CYMAs have very cheap plastic bodies (although robust internals), anything above that from those brands will be fine. Baofengs UV-5Rs are decent but contain more functionality than needed. They can be programmed by hand, although it's somewhat time consuming. A £7 programming cable (eBay can provide) makes it easier, and allows downloading the same frequencies to multiple handsets. If you want to skip all that, they do a simpler range that's locked to the PMR frequencies. 3. Dunno, DPM is best P.

My son and I have played a few games now and I have a question on reloading. We are still using the hire guns so only have one magazine. Often mid game we run out and have to reload which involves pouring bb’s from a bag into the mag and always end up spilling them everywhere. there must be a better way. I’ve seen the dispensers but wonder if there’s anything else I’ve missed. thanks

If you want all metal, here's a cheap alternative hi capa that I've not heard anything about ... https://www.actionhobbies.co.uk/products/ec-5-1-hi-capa-gas-blowback-airsoft-pistol-black/ Absolutely no idea if they're any good, we need someone to be a guinea pig 😄

I can see why benefit is derived from the addition of supercaps with NiMh batteries, because NiMh is inferior in current delivery, by a long way in comparison to lithium batteries. I can tell you that just as lithiums have wild variance in quality, so too do Nimh or Nicads for that matter, but you'll notice it less because they are generally lower performing. I suppose what I was suggesting before was that as useful as adding caps to NiMh batteries might be there's no reason to suppose it is as well performing as a lithium, nor that there would be anything to be gained from adding caps to lithiums. You could easily run the tests to show what happens, id be interested. -Airsoftlabs is calculating the currents, from IR values derived from experimental data with a 70% variance from a simple load model and choosing the one that suits. It is important to understand that IR varies by load, time, state of charge and method used, probably some other things too. A battery isn't a resistor, proper devices measure IR taking account of battery resistance, capacitance and inductance. Certainly you could compare the same battery over time to see its health and snapshot the IR for a specific circumstance. I use my meter to monitor battery health and see if what I have bought is as good as what I have. I couldn't use the data to compare my batteries to the data sheets with any accuracy. -You wont see volt drops like Airsoftlabs says because its not possible to drop voltage and maintain the current. They are calculations from data, hypothetical. -You cant extrapolate because of the above line. -You can't make any assumptions if you are being sciency, you can measure data and draw conclusions. Airsoft labs did some cool experimentation, i wish there was more, but more sciency.

I didn't. His only posts are sales posts (both of which are Mack's material) and has made no effort to bring anything to the forum so is fair game for a piss taking Edit: especially as he listed things as extras which come with the gun anyway

Not bought anything of substance from them, but I've been in their shop and the guy was very friendly, the range they had was pretty awesome and their prices seemed reasonable. I'd buy from them

Specna FLEX will be fine, and those Fire Support ones are a genuine bargain. The performance will be on par with a rental G36. They both have decent rotary hops, everything else is functional, but could be better. To get anything noticeably better I reckon you'd have to go to a gun with a fire control system like a Double Eagle M9XX series, or a Specna Arms EDGE 2.0, but you'll pay significantly more. You'll always want to be fiddling around, but it won't necessarily produce hugely better results. The FLEX will take all of the common parts like motors, hop rubbers, barrels, gears and such if you want to go that route. Or, with some more experience, you might end up relegating them to backup guns and go another route like AK, MP5, a G-gun, or whatever tickles your fancy. You'll rarely regret having a light, reliable, basic and unmeddled M4 in the bag or boot.

OK, so does this serial number mean anything? I bought it non working at an auction at LAC's The Farm, apparently it belonged to an old guy who collected and had had to give up ether due to ill health or he had passed. I've not seen anything in google image searches, all of them either have later serial numbers or not at all. It's black, in good condition, no "Real Steel" trades, marked Model G2010. Could it really be No1? And what's it worth? It's now been serviced by a good local tech* and he did a great job. It works well with the recommended Maple Leaf 60 degree, reaches out very nicely and now the rubber is worn in it gives me a nice little range advantage over the average AEG. (First time out with it I was picking off a group trying to flank us and as they tried moved out of range the hop was wearing in, I kept adjusting it and hitting them until they were driven to the edge of the field! I swear I was getting over 60 yards.) It's nice, compact and swingable straight shooter with a decent length barrel, takes standard AR type mags. But... Despite that it ticks all my boxes theoretically as the bullpup I've been looking for, I don't find the angle of the pistol grip and front fore end very ergonomic. Why FN made them those strange and uncomfortable angles I can not fathom. Not really sure about the fire selector either. It's good for ambis though, so there's that. *TheButchersShopAirsoft

I don't see the point of mixing bushing and bearings because as per airsoft physics, the differences and variables affecting the three gears do not make them considerably different from one another in terms of the type of loading and the amount of force behind them The different surface finish on the axles themselves with different gears already makes it impossible to work out the precise newtons applying on a bearing because if it is anything but perfect it is going to have a bit of wobble, and the brand of bearing alone (and the size, and the amount and type of grease, heck even the amount of dust exposed) will determine your shock load capacity of the bearing which is what ultimately makes using bearing worth while for the speed advantage But since every particular setup is different, even the best bearings you can find will have a risk of exploding, again because of airsoft physics and tolerances If you have to be mathematical, the bevel gear spins the most, followed by spur and sector gear, so the bevel gear will benefit the most from the less resistance from a bearing, in theory, but if you are willing to take the risk of exploding bearings there is no reason to not use it on all three gears So it comes down to whether your setup is so marginal that your motor and battery cannot handle the negligible amount of extra resistance from bushings that you have to sneak in one or two or three bearings to lower the resistance, and choosing how many bearings to use is just a matter of risk management, because more bearings = more points of failure In my opinion, bushings work fine, they are more reliable, the speed difference is not worth the risks of failing bearings because they fail catastrophically in almost all cases If you want to put in bearings, I would start with putting on the bevel gear first, then spur, then sector gear, but in reality it does not matter because again, airsoft physics and tolerances is a pure chaotic mess therefore there is no theorycrafting possible, in reality it might even come down to the finishes of your particular gearbox and whether your shimming is making one of the gears rubbing on any one of the bearings, for example, so again, no theorycrafting is possible, because it is ultimately up to you and two million other variables

I keep seeing Doom-posting like this hence why I can't make up my mind. Alot of ppl talk have said bad things about WE and AA but now they are recommending these brands. Everyone seems to presume anything except a TM will explode after a week. Surely for the prices and brands I'm looking at, I'm avoiding a bed-shitting scenario? After this price point it's Novrisch and the the Agent 2 which I am waaaay too poor to even think about! Holster Queen, haha! Yeah I'm not thinking of running a pistol primary - just something for CQB/indoors when my M4A1 is a bit too big for the job. I guess my problem is I'm looking for guarantees in a hobby where stuff can just blow up, hence why I'm reluctant to stand behind either one.

Hence why I stick to bog-standard M4's for now (gonna try my hand at upgrading soon tho) so I should be able to repair/replace anything that breaks. As for anything outfit wise: I don't care if anything happens to it, I'm there to roll in the mud (really opens up those pores) and get dirty/scratched. I'm not a big fan of having kit that still looks unused/new. Hell, lot of the stuff comes from army surplus stores anyway so it already looks used and sometimes has visible repairs.

Just trying to get some info on this vented muzzle break/ flash hider I found among my bits of spares It’s a CW thread Can’t seem to find anything when I google it

An elderly couple, Mary and Declan, live in Cork. Declan always wanted a pair of authentic riding boots. So seeing some on sale one day, he buys them, wears them home, walking proudly. He walks into the house and says to his wife ‘Notice anything different about me?’ Mary looks him over, ‘Nope.’ Frustrated, Declan storms off into the bathroom, undresses, and walks back into the room completely naked except for the boots. Again, he asks, a little louder this time ‘Notice anything different NOW?’ Mary looks up and says, ‘Declan , what’s different? It’s hanging down today, it was hanging down yesterday, and it’ll be hanging down again tomorrow.’ Furious, Declan yells, AND DO YOU KNOW WHY IT’S HANGING DOWN, MARY? ‘Nope’ she replies. ‘IT’S HANGING DOWN BECAUSE IT’S LOOKING AT MY NEW BOOTS!!!!!’ Declan yells. To which Mary replies…”Shoulda bought a hat, Declan.Shoulda bought a hat".

We had a tree surgeon on the team - butter, but with the common sense not to climb up trees to play shooting games When working he would be wearing the safety gear, harness etc, but if needed would shimmy straight up a tree - which was needed more than once when some clever dick would throw an objective prop up a tree. He did once nip up a free as a favour for the site with saw and without harness - the expected happened when he fell out but only resulted in bruising and a limp ……….. Stating the obvious, but players should not be up trees and anything other than screaming from staff to get down now is calling for a public liability case

I've seen a few recorded instances of a lens detaching from the frame, but not a failure of the polycarb itself. Anything close to 2mm should shrug off airsoft energies, I'd be interested in hearing the circumstances of an exception. Oh, agreed, I'd never play in shooting glasses, even with a retention strap. Full seal, all the way, find a way to deal with the fogging.

I'm an avid GBBR user, took an aeg to the last game day as an extra back up as the weather was looking cold. Used the aeg for about half a game before I got bored of it and switched over to the L85 that ran faultlessly for the rest of the day Lol The MWS does seem to have a devoted following, and I'm sure it is an amazing platform, however most of mine are WE. I run an L119 A1 and an A2 , the L85 G36 and G3 all WE , The L85 was the first , an airsoft jumble purchase that I rebuilt, so when I started on the 119's it made sense to stick with WE for mag compataility. My take on the WE platforms is that the M4 platform is excellent, mine get a M/L rubber and Omega nub and one has a crazy jet barrel. They have proved to be completely reliable and have been my main go to guns for two or three years now. Setting the hop is a bit of a faff due to it's location, although my patented hop adjusting tool makes it easier, but once set, the hop is stable and rarely needs another tweak. I'm running .30's in all by GBBRs which are a good compromise, but they will easily lift heavier. As well as mine I have also built 2 other 119's for mates on WE base. The only failure across all of them is on one of those and is due to operator error, somw numpty charged it whilst on safe and caused some damage to the trigger box . In that case I dropped in an RA tec trigger box as I had one in my spares stash which I had never bothered to fit to mine. Spares if required are cheap and easy to get , other than an NPAS and the rubber / nub I wouldn't bother 'upgrading' anything untill something breaks. Lots of real steal parts fit straight on. The L85 is a little more tempremental, but the main issue of bolt damage has been cured in the later ones with a strengthening plate. Again , easy to strip and work on, same hop unit as the M4. Mine was running like a train last time out in single didget temperatures on red gas. The G36 is now mainly a loaner if anyone wants to tra GBBR, it needs a go through having been on loan for over a year, but it's a good platform, easy to work on , hop is easy to adjust. I dont run it 'cos the mags are a pain in the arse to fit in pouches. The G3 is a beast, it's the fully trade marked version, is running totally stock except for an NPAS and will easily over hop my standard .30's . Makes a very distinctive crack when firing, hop easy to adjust , always catches me out with the dead man's click on empty as I am so used to the 119's locking back ! My other two are the Umarex MP7 ( full size unlike the TM) totally stock and an absolute scream to use . Then there is the VFC M249, Oh My ! It's so much fun to use, I load my mags to 120 rounds , fill the gas tank in the box mag and just have a blast. The noise is incredible, one game I saw people from the other team stand up and run the other way when I opened up. One of them came and found me later and said ' that thing sounds terifying ' 🤣 A mate has the WE SCAR H and it is very nice, but we did end up using an after market hop unit to get it shooting consistantly. I never feel out gunned with any of them, they all have as much range as any other non dmr / sniper airsoft gun and accuracy on most is excellent. I've spent plenty of time dialing the sights I use on each and allow for recoil when I fire. The 249 has more of a shotgun effect, but I'm happy enough with that in a support weapon. Mags wise I generally carry 5 for the 119's , 85 and G3 plus a speed loader. I recon on 2.5 BB loads to a gas fill, so have about 300 rounds for a game. 4 mags for the MP7 but they are 40 rounds . Mags are in pouches on a plate carrier . I make sure to use the mag that has been closest to my body first from each pouch, moving the outer one in when I put the empty into the pouch. I tend to run hot when I excersise and find the mags are happy with this system. Sorry, long post, but hopefully helpful.

So I've searched online and there are so many different guides on how to dmr a rifle that I'm getting confused. Figured I'd list the parts I'm looking to replace, what I'm aiming for in terms of fps, and ask for suggestions for which brands etc to go for. So currently my l85 is sitting just under 350fps on .2g with a cut down sp120. I'm aiming for as close to 450 or 1.88j as I can get, with great consistency and good accuracy and range. I've already swapped out the stock bucking and nub for a super macron and omega nub. I was thinking nozzle, cylinder head, piston head and piston. Replace the bushings with bearings, shim the gearbox, correct aoe, cut down the teeth on the piston so it engages properly, replace the stock "high torque" motor with a decent hi torque motor, new metal spring guide, add ptfe tape to stabalise the barrel and then if the fps still needs to go up replace the spring again. Trigger response is already pretty good on 11.1 lipos with the ares efcs so I don't think I need to replace the stock gears unless they break, or short stroked, unless short stroking will prevent pme (is that even a thing on single shot aegs?) Have I missed anything? And what brands should I be looking at for parts?