Speedbird_666

If I had the money (and I don't unfortunately) I would have that XM8, even as a wall-hanger. It's so brilliantly ugly that it makes it anti-cool, which is cool in itself.....makes sense in my head at least.....? Gotta love that classic early '00s styling.

The CAA guns are OEM'd by King Arms. The budget one (which I'm assuming is the OPs version) that I looked at in the Z1 showroom had a plastic outer barrel that had the front sight molded in, much like an old school Combat Machine. So a hacksaw/dremel might be needed if you don't want to replace the Outer. Personally, I wouldn't bother. As it's front wired you'll either have to invest in a battery box (and associated batteries) or re-wire, along with buying the rail of your choice and probably a new outer barrel. Then you'll still be left with a pretty mediocre gun in terms of external build (almost all externals are plastic, including the buffer tube and charging handle IIRC) and an ok-ish KA gearbox. Sell it, and buy another gun with the rail of your preference, there's no shortage of options these days. Hell, even the new Specna £100 'Flex' series feels better in the hand than the King Arms 'budget' guns.

Used to see Lady Winwoods Maggot on a regular basis when I was a barman at the George in Christchurch. I spent nearly every Friday night in the function room working the live music events. They were one of the bands that caused enough noise complaints from the neighbours that the pub was forced to fit a volume limiter by the council. If the band was too loud for more than 10 seconds, their power switched off. Went down well with the bands and regulars alike….not. Good times.

Picked up a Hera Arms grip and Brighter C off these 'ere forums and a 22TPA motor from @ak2m4.

It's in the thread title.....?

That'll look gash and kill the resale value though. Tried it with a cheapo ACM rail and unless you happen to have a bandsaw handy it was a pain to get a reasonably flat and clean finish. Loads of cheap M-Lok options on Aliexpress

SRS owner here. No, the rail won't fit without changing the barrel nut. They mount very differently to the gun. Predator: SR series: At least the predator has spanner-flats to remove the barrel nut. The SR series needs a special tool to remove/install without damage: I had to design and 3d print one in the end. In terms of replacing your hand guard - yes it can be done - G&G's receiver threading is standard AEG, so most Airsoft rail systems will work - I would be looking on Aliexpress for a 12in MLOK jobbie. The only issue is that aesthetically, any hand guard you choose might not match the flared hexagonal front of the upper receiver.

Bought loads of stuff from EbayBanned when the exchange rate was $2USD to the £ back in '07 to '08ish. Good times.

Loved season 1 - I've re-watched a few of the episodes a couple of times now. I loved Zima Blue (weirdly), found Beyond the Aquila Drift strangely unsettling (in a good way), thought Suits was cool, and really enjoyed Lucky 13 as I've read the entire series of books (Marko Kloos Frontlines) it was based off. Thought season 2 was disappointing in comparison. I don't think I've re-watched any episodes but Snow in the Desert was OK as it was written by Neal Asher, and I've read most of his Polity books. Thought season 3 was better than season 2, but wasn't blown away by it. Bad Travelling (again Neal Asher) was good, very reminiscent of the Spatterjay series of books, and Night of the Mini Dead raised a few chuckles along with Mason's Rats.

It's the same light unit that you'll find all over AliExpress, but you've paid for Nuprol's laser-etched logo and a some semblance warranty that you curiously didn't utilise. With that in mind, given that the entire weapon light is only ~£25 shipped from Aliexpress, most would opt to bin off the damaged unit and buy another. You can buy an 'upgraded switch' with a removable rail mounted pressure pad for about the same money as a light unit itself. Of course you could try to contact Nuprol themselves and ask about spares. Good luck with that.

Mesh goggles perhaps?

10+ years running a High-Torque/7.4v setup across most of my guns. Never had any issues with 'additional stresses' or such like on my simple sub-350fps guns. Never stripped a single gear, piston or damaged a bushing doing it. Never had any noteworthy FPS losses either. So, for me, it is a solution. A simple one at that. It's just that you don't like it. Pedantry here: Main springs are always compressed in an AEG gearbox, even with the piston fully-forward. ?

I'm surprised no one has mentioned replacing the motor. I use SHS High Torque motors with 7.4v LiPos on all but one of my guns and I have never, ever had a lockup on any of them, even spamming the trigger in semi. I do make sure that they are all reasonably well shimmed, but most of my guns are pretty much stock with the usual 18:1 standard gears with solid bushings and all teeth intact. You don't need an ETU to eliminate the problem.

Clean the barrel, change the hop rubber/nub, 16TPA high torque motor. Nothing else. Leave the gearbox well alone until you know what you are doing, got a spare gun to fall back on, or something breaks. 305fps is absolutely fine - the difference in range is negligible if you have a a decent hop setup. Ask the Tokyo Marui Fanbois. Use any money you plan for 'upgrades' to go out and play as much as you can with what you have got, until you understand what you really want out of your airsoft playing experience longer term. You may decide that the hobby is the bestest thing ever, or come to realise that it's not for you. If it's the former you will probably end up spending a sizable wedge of money on new toys and shiny things, but If it's the latter, you wouldn't have wasted your cash on upgrades for the sake of upgrades, which you will never recover if you sell your kit on.

Shouldn't need any adapter on a Specna CORE - The buffer tube mounts directly onto the receiver extension stub with a screw that goes into the back of the gearbox spring guide. This serves to lock the gearbox in place, and pulls the buffer tube into tension on the back of the gun thus securing it. A sling plate is needed to cover the gaping hole left in the back of the receiver.

Cheap'n'cheerful: ebay or Ant-Supplies You'll need AEG fitting, not GBB.

IPA might not be enough for brasso. I would be soaking in hot soapy water, and a thorough clean/dry without any solvents. Otherwise, have you tested another inner barrel? If there's buildup after a couple of mags you can rule out the barrel and focus on other contact points for the BB (Hop Unit, Nozzle etc.)

Well, @Rogerborg might know…

What did you polish the barrel with?

I like the cut of your jib, good sir. You could probably cancel as it hasn't been shipped yet?

Short answer - yeah, you screwed up. ICS receivers are proprietary and designed exclusively for their split gearboxes. I wouldn't even try - find another gun as your base.

This. I had to service my Neighbours ICS L85 (after the trigger contacts burnt out) and found it easy to work on. I was pleasantly surprised. Also, ICS has good spares availability via Fire-Support. So if you do break something, replacements can be sourced relatively easily. I don't think the same could be said for G&G.

Essentially yes - they have a 'handling fee' for small orders (£4.99) but they don't seem to apply any shipping charges to the basket even if the total of the order + handling fee is still below the free shipping threshold. As I was close the cutoff it was cheaper to add a couple of extra bits to not pay the fee. I really like EcoWire - I find it nice to work with, good value when you buy it by the reel compared to 'Airsoft prices'.

I only ordered one pair to make up CPC Farnells minimum order - two arrived in the box....so one's a freebie. Bonus.

The gun has now been fully re-wired with Alphawire and a Mosfet added - found a simple (but slightly chunky) Acetech AceMOS plus unit lurking in my electronics box that I forgot I bought 3-4 years ago. Shimming has been tweaked on the Sector and Spur gear, and sounds a bit better than before. Left the bevel as-is. The stock motor is shit - hands down the weakest link on the gun. I am able to lock the gun up on an 11.1v and it gets really frikkin hot after a few seconds of firing. So it's got speed, but not decent torque and definitely no efficiency. Put an SHS 16TPA Hi-torque motor in - major over-spin/double shooting on an 11.1v. Switched to a 7.4v LiPo and it seems happy enough - trigger response roughly equal to the stock motor but without any lockups, around 16-17 RPS full auto and running pretty cool temperature-wise. So now it's very usable as-is, but I want an even snappier trigger response, so the next step is a 22TPA motor on an 11.1v. Hoping to keep it around 17-18 RPS, but with the extra torque for semi-auto.