Speedbird_666

Why are you swapping the Infinity motor end bell? Is it lost/broken? If it's a broken tab you might be able to remove and swap out the metal plate (that has the tab and brush mount) from another motor. You *might* also be able to remove the magnets from the Infinity and put them in the Ares, it depends on if/how they are glued to the can. G&G have been shipping different motors in guns (e.g. the IFRIT 22tpa) - but I'm guessing that you are referring to the low-end 18k Ferrite motor which is pretty useless for your application.

I don't think I would want to drink any tap water on a site that happens to be plumbed in personally. I'd rather stick to bottled - free or bought, and not have thoughts of Legionnaires whilst drinking it.

Had a spare hour this afternoon, so had a go at reusing a short SHS High-Speed motor with a long shaft armature from a 'generic' stock ferrite motor for giggles. The results (so far) have impressed me - You basically end up with something like a 28TPA-ish High-Torque motor. A bit lethargic on 7.4v, but with an 11.1v it's got excellent trigger response, decent ROF (approx) 18-20rps with an 18:1 gear set, but runs very cool, which implies a low Amp draw. It was definitely worth a punt. Just make sure you shim the armature to minimise shaft movement (oooh...errr!).

This sums it up rather well. Whilst it's a nice gesture for sites to hand out free bottled water, it is our own responsibility to keep properly hydrated.

Very nice looking shooter. Given these used to retail for £470 on Fire-support, I think £250 is a good place to start for the base gun. Personally - If you had a spare stock knocking around, I would consider swapping out the PTS EPS-C jobbie on there and sell it separately as it's probably worth £25-30 on its own. Do you have the original (LMT) Iron sights and (Tango Down) vert grip with it? That would help the sale too.

The answer is - maybe. Less common today, but people would put 'franken-torque' motors together mixing and matching parts.

That's pretty smart. Where is it from?

BTC have all but disappeared with UK vendors - especially compared to Gate Aster/Titan and Perun Hybrid which are readily available. They seems to be one of those manufacturers that have 'had their day' and struggle for relevance in the current market.

Yeh - I have a couple sets of Empire Helix which are fine. Quite like the look of the HK HSTL.

So all brand-name internal stuff then - make sure you include all that in your listing. Do you still have the stock latch? If so, I would consider reinstalling it for the sale. Have a go at £300 and if doesn't go for that - incrementally lower the price.

Had the CM.045A with the wood furniture too. Not worth the extra $$ and I wished I had the plastic hand guard TBH.

That's....a fair point I suppose. It's just a shame the MI-7 looks so...gopping. But I guess you're not looking at the outside of the mask when you wear it. I did have a squeaky bum moment cutting the fan hole into the top of my Empire goggles.

I've only seen one in the 'real' and it made the wearer look like a bobble-head. I think the helmet was FAST sized, but the face mask makes the whole thing look much bigger. I'm sure it's a decent product though - just don't expect to be able to aim down sights with one: (Random google images result)

Tough one this - it's very niche in the sense that'll only appeal to those who know the (relatively obscure) real steel gun and have a hankering for a replica. I would suggest being a bit more specific with the internal parts you've fitted (spring, piston, cylinder etc) - who's the manufacturer(s)? what ratio gears etc? It's a really nice looking bit of kit, although I can see that the stock adjustment latch is missing. I get a number of £200-ish in my head, maybe a touch more. The Prime kit was fortune back in the day, but many airsofters wouldn't even know who Prime is/was now.

This x1000000000000000 Chronos should be mandatory kit for HPA users. Why would anyone drop a huge wedge of cash on an HPA setup and not £50-£60 on a chrono is beyond my limited comprehension.

Welcome back. Whilst the halcyon days of plastic-bodied Tokyo Marui's being the de-facto standard for Airsoft AEGs is long over - we are still shooting tiny plastic BB's at each other in much the same fashion as 20 years ago. If your gun is shooting 340-350fps, reasonably accurately and reliably, at a rate of fire you are content with, then it's all good - take it out and play a day with it. It'll also give you the opportunity to see what other people are using and benchmark your gun's performance against something more contemporary. I think your gun, if all is working correctly, will be absolutely fine. But I would avoid the 11.1v LiPo for now personally - it might be a bit much for the gun.

I've been using Empire goggles for 12 years or so in various models - E-vents and E-flexes and I also have a couple of pairs of the low-end Helix as loaners and for my kids to use. So I can say I like them. As a glasses wearer - the lens design is big enough that my specs fit inside with loads of room. I use a DIY goggle fan setup to mitigate fogging on the glasses (a problem with any paintball google for a glasses wearer). As for Dye - well, frankly, if they are shit, people wouldn't buy them either new or second hand - they are very popular. I've not tried either the i4 or i5 personally (I had the Dye Invision/i3's which is a very different goggle system). The i4 and 5 use the same lens design and the i4 can be had for £100.

That's a very different class of Paintball goggle. Once you've been higher-end (like OP already has), entry-level feels pretty shit by comparison. JT Proflex (not the 'X' version) are pretty epic for comfort and breath-ability, let down by the issue that the lenses can be a bitch to change. The X-version seems a bit wank as the frame is thicc (and cheap looking) and cuts down your vision. Empire E-Flex matches the look and performance of the original Proflex but with a better lens system - I have two sets and have been amazeballs over the years. They do have an Airsoft version with a mesh lower called the E-Mesh A lot of the Airsoft speedybois use Dye I5s. They can be had for well within your budget (£160) and hold their value really well if you keep them in good nick. If you start down the helmet route - expect to sweat - a lot.

That's the A2. Pre-2013 they were 12in (assaulter version). The gun I saw definitely wasn't 'new' but was in very good condition. No indication of any kind of sound suppressor, and was setup with pretty much the same kit as the L119A1 (Grip pod and ACOG with red dot). Definitely not setup for long range precision shooting (that's the L129's job). If I had to guess, it's employed for counter body-armour. That being said, I had less than 30 seconds with it and was more concerned with cocking, dry firing and looking through the sights, so it could have been a 13in version, but it only seemed fractionally longer than L119A1. In fact when I approached the stand I thought it was a '416 and took me a good couple of seconds to realise that it was it's 7.62 brother. Once I put the gun down and asked a few questions - it got nabbed and put into it's peli case. Anyway, cool day in the office.

There’s an interesting blog post from ASG about their ‘Open Blaster’ bio BBs, and they touch upon the materials used to obtain the BB mass. https://actionsportgames.blog/2021/12/16/_can-you-have-truly-bio-bb/

Just been down again. Grabbed a couple more pics. They still had their secret squirrel gun in its case under the table but left the mags out on display…🤔

Made in Germany. 7.62mm. 12in Barrel (mental). Looked barely used so probably not an SF Cast-off. Only non-SF unit to be issued them in the UK so that's why they didn't want them pictured for OPSEC (their words). There's quite a few gun enthusiasts and ex-army guys on campus, so they realised pretty quickly that they probably shouldn't have put it on display in the first place. The Glock 19 was quite surprising to me. No idea any of these were in use within the Army.

So, into the office I go for another day of pushing spreadsheets around only to find that my employer is hosting an Armed Forces day with a few military units having set up stands/displays. So I got to play with some real guns, namely the L119A1, the L129A1, Glock 17/19 (Military Police Special Operations use both ‘17s and ‘19s with laser grips). Cool stuff. They also had another rifle/carbine on display that I was surprised to see. I was not allowed to photograph it, but they still let me play with it. They shoved it in a peli case shortly thereafter as they had been asked loads of questions about it from other gun nuts on campus. And to think I was going to Work From Home today…

Chatting to the guys at the Z1 shop a few weeks back - they have their own range of BB's and the topic of Bio BB's came up. Basically, they told me that on their range (so can't talk for every manufacturer) the key difference is the coating/finishing - their normal BB's coating/finish is UV resistant, the Bios coating is not and is also hydroscopic. The actual bulk of the BB - the PLA core , is the exactly same. I don't believe that the just being 'Bio' means that they are inherently more susceptible to shattering these days. The non-bio ASG Blasters are well known for also shattering - to the point that some sites have banned them. I think the bigger distinction between BB's when it comes to shattering risk is not Bio vs non-Bio - but rather cheap vs expensive.