Speedbird_666

I only ordered one pair to make up CPC Farnells minimum order - two arrived in the box....so one's a freebie. Bonus.

The gun has now been fully re-wired with Alphawire and a Mosfet added - found a simple (but slightly chunky) Acetech AceMOS plus unit lurking in my electronics box that I forgot I bought 3-4 years ago. Shimming has been tweaked on the Sector and Spur gear, and sounds a bit better than before. Left the bevel as-is. The stock motor is shit - hands down the weakest link on the gun. I am able to lock the gun up on an 11.1v and it gets really frikkin hot after a few seconds of firing. So it's got speed, but not decent torque and definitely no efficiency. Put an SHS 16TPA Hi-torque motor in - major over-spin/double shooting on an 11.1v. Switched to a 7.4v LiPo and it seems happy enough - trigger response roughly equal to the stock motor but without any lockups, around 16-17 RPS full auto and running pretty cool temperature-wise. So now it's very usable as-is, but I want an even snappier trigger response, so the next step is a 22TPA motor on an 11.1v. Hoping to keep it around 17-18 RPS, but with the extra torque for semi-auto.

30m of AlphaWire Eco (I've re-wired a gun already), ICS metal Hop unit (my plastic one broke on Sunday) and a few other bits for Airsoft projects:

The nozzle, when looking in the hop unit from the magwell, should be blue. Older ones were clear. The gearbox casing should be silver, older ones were black. The cylinder should be shiny dark silver, older ones were brass.

I hope those are just stickers covering the trades?

When you use very heavy BBs at CQB distances, it only serve to increase pain on your target. Pure and simple. I wouldn't necessarily have a problem with this - except that kids play airsoft too. And at that point it just becomes cruel. Fortunately my sons opted out of playing the Bunker on Sunday, and after I showed them my 'war wounds' from the day, they very much affirmed that they have no desire to play there themselves. So with that in mind, I understand why some CQB sites will set a weight limit on the BB's.

Have you still got it, or have you binned it off now?

No idea - infliction of pain? At the ranges we were shooting at, there was no need for additional 'accuracy'. It's about energy retention of the BB during it's flight. Muzzle energy is measured at the muzzle (obvs) - not 20-30ft away at your target. Try putting the muzzle on your thigh and firing a shot point blank- THAT is 1J of muzzle energy. And painful. Lower weight BB's are faster out of the gun, but shed their energy quicker than slower moving, but much heavier BBs. Felt force on the target will always be higher with heavier BB's, especially at CQB ranges.

@MAX DICKER And that's why I run paintball goggles pretty much exclusively for Airsoft these days, especially CQB. Played at Portsmouth's Bunker on Sunday (I'm assuming yours is the Welsh one) for the first time and my god, those nutters (read: regulars) were running super heavy BB's , the chrono marshall was saying that some were running .36s to .40s. In an underground CQB bunker with around 15-20ft of visibility after a few Pyros went off - I experienced some of the most painful hits I've had playing in 16-17 years. Also had some similar issues to you - trading with players a 5ft range and them refusing to take the hit, being accused of cheating, despite a Marshall watching me, and only me, during the entire game whilst I was holding a key bottleneck on the field (he told the accusing player to basically fuck off - top bloke IMO). Both sides whinging about hit taking in the safe zone yadda yadda yadda.... But to be fair, the Marshalls were pretty spot-on dealing with the problems throughout and that's why I would play there again - just with a tracer unit and the heaviest tracer BB's I can lay my hands on next time.

Thank you Captain Obvious, who's your trusty sidekick.... Hindsight-Boy? 😏 In all seriousness, I was aware of the proprietary nature of KWA before purchase. But it was the first gun in ages (read:years) that I truly wanted to buy as soon as I set eyes on it. So much so I ordered it the day it was released in the UK. Was it my most sensible purchase? - no. But I don't regret it really now. I know with a few internal tweaks there's a lovely gun to be had there. I've had far worse guns for the money that I paid for this (£244) and nothing comes close to the external build quality at this price point. There's nothing wrong with the internals either (it's built like a tank) apart from the abysmal amp-hungry stock motor.

Problem is - the only drop-in unit that work in a KWA is the Titan. The sensor for the sector gear on the Perun Hybrid and indeed the Gate Aster sits 1-2mm too low to pick up the rotation thanks to KWA's proprietary gearbox shell. That's pretty much what I was looking at. Good info - thanks!

Seems like the NanoASR is out of stock in a lot of places, and I stupidly sold some last year that were gathering dust in my parts box. Z1 (my local) has NanoHARDs in stock for a tenner more - I suppose I could use that with the AB switched off. Otherwise I was tempted to get a Perun AB++, as the ETU++ in my son's G&G has been great, I know I won't get the full feature set (i.e. cycle completion), but it'll do a few features that might be worth playing around with. And yep - long shaft motor.

Ok, I'll keep this quick. Situation: - Got a KWA gun with an (allegedly) 14TPA motor out of the box but there's no way it has neo magnets. - Said KWA gun does 23RPS on an 11.1v LiPo - which is waaay more than I need - I bought this primarily for semi-only CQB. - Trigger response is good on an 11.1v and want to keep using 11.1v LiPos as I have a bunch of RC ones that fit the gun. - Stock gear set is 18:1 and I don't want to replace or short stroke them - Current draw is mental - drained a 1300mah LiPo to 45% in the space of one Hi-cap - Motor (and by association pistol grip) gets super hot and the the smell is not pleasant - I'm seeing burning/pitting on the trigger switch shuttle already after 30mins of use which implies a high current draw with the current setup Looking for: - Cool running, efficiency & reliability (yeah - I know it's Airsoft) - Drop the ROF down to ~18RPS on a 11.1v, which is more than enough for what I need - Want to keep the trigger as snappy, if not snappier than what I've already got - but not to the extent where I have to drop 50% of the gun's value on a Titan and start short stroking gears. Old school trigger shuttle is fine. I'm thinking of: - Rewiring with 16AWG Alphawire and adding a simple Mosfet (Gate PicoSSR3 or something) at the same time - Buying a 22TPA motor to replace the stock one, emphasising torque and semi response over ROF Thoughts on the above would be appreciated!

Umm...technology yes. Build quality?.....no. I would take the G&G plastic body over any Edge metal body and if out-of-the-box reliability was a primary concern, well, I would also choose the G&G for that too. (Source: I have a Specna Edge 1.0 and a G&G CM16 SRS). QC for Specnas has been notoriously poor (although many would say it's improving). On paper, the specs on the Specna Edge 2.0 look amazing. Reality is, you'll either end up with a good gun that works decent enough out of the box. Or you'll end up with a complete shit-show assembled by the Friday afternoon shift. I suppose you could say that for any Airsoft gun, but Specnas had a much higher lemon rate for some time**. My advice? Go to an airsoft shop (if you can) and fondle as many guns as you can. You will soon start to understand what RIFs make your bollocks tingle with excitement. Let's face it, 90% of RIF purchases are not 'sensible' choices, rather they are derived from what people find 'coolest'. ** The Specna fanbois will be along shortly to tell you that their gun is amazeballs.

Except when the trigger switch assembly is proprietary and nowhere in the UK stocks them.....I've just found that one out the hard way....😪 Sooo...a cheap (non-AB) mosfet will be going into my particular gun, just so I don't have to order replacement trigger contacts from the US or HK later on. Oh - this is after 30mins of gameplay on an 11.1v LiPo with said gun:

Just ordered a 30m Reel of AlphaWire Eco 16AWG hookup wire in a rather fetching shade of white just to be different. Should be enough to re-wire a couple dozen guns in the future. I've found the stuff very easy to use on various AEG wiring jobs in the past.

Oh dear…another VFC clusterfuck.

Hello. Welcome to the forums. I didn't manage to fit any of my LiPos properly inside the gun - I had to 3D print an extension (although Airtech make one)

£320 for a gun that only cost £260 a couple of months ago from Fire Support.

The EVE-9 will come with a PTS EPS stock. I doubt very much that anything other than the KWA 2.5 gearbox will fit as it's very much integrated into the structure of the body itself, shaped subtly differently to a standard V2, and the ambi controls just will not work with anything else due to a proprietary selector plate.

A quick look at the internals... Well..... the switch isn't going to last long on 11.1v - there is clear indicators of burning/arching/pitting on the trigger shuttle already after ~30mins of use. Problem is - the switch is proprietary. It'll probably be easier to source a Gate Titan than try to find a replacement KWA switch here in blighty. Great. The switch is not a complete write-off yet,so I'm going to try clean it up and fit a simple Mosfet for now. KWA should of shipped the gun with one fitted - they are not exactly expensive these days. The rest of the gearbox is fine. Gears seem tough, the shimming is a touch tight, but with the shell being so thick and less openings in it to test each gear individually, it'll be tricky to re-shim so I'll leave it as-is for now. The shell really is a chunky beast. I have no concerns about it's long term durability. There is a proprietary tappet and nozzle which is a characteristic of all KWA 2.5 guns. The Piston and Piston head are best described as mediocre so I've ordered replacements from @ak2m4 . There is so much potential for this gun - it is a few component choices short of truly excellent but ultimately penny-pinching by the manufacturer has let it down. As-is, would I recommend it? Well, if you are confident at teching your own guns, then yes, I think I do. But for a beginner player? - Good god no. And that's a real shame.

Well, first game day ended bittersweet. It made it through one game before the smell and heat from the motor/grip made be throw it in the bag and grab a spare gun for fear of doing some serious damage. The gun also started to lockup as the heat/smell got worse, so I'm guessing the motor is just...well...shit. Curiously, the anti-arching diode is absent from the motor that KWA normally fits to all their other guns. I had an intermittent low velocity issue as well, where one shot in 20 would be noticeably quieter and the BB drops well short. Initially I thought the hop-rubber needed bedding-in, but the sound change became more pronounced. So time to check the gearbox - the stock piston is largely an all-plastic rack from what I have seen with an un-ported lump of metal for a head (which might be part of the problem). But the first 20-30mins of game play use were glorious even with the odd low velocity shot. The ergonomics, balance and feel were top notch, and it sounded great with a slight amount of over-volumising to give a nice, but not obnoxious 'pop'. It felt snappy, very 'pointable' and was very easy to put BB's on target. Sooo...time to sort the gremlins and say bye bye to the warranty. The guns strip relatively easily - no harder than a standard M4, just with a few some extra screws. The mag release and ambi controls do not require removal for disassembly, they remain attached to the lower. The upper slides off with a single pin removed at the front (M4 style), but you don't need to jiggle charging handles or dust covers, it's smooth and precise and the fit between the upper/lower is excellent. This is helped by the fact that the front pin lug on the upper is part of a metal trunion/outer barrel assembly. The lower receiver has a removable receiver stock mount/extension, and this screws into a co-molded metal threads in the lower - clever stuff. The entire back end of the lower is heavily reinforced and in places it around 5mm thick to support the stock. That, coupled with the fact that there is no rear receiver pin hole - which is a weak point on many guns, means that I would honestly place this well above any metal-bodied gun in a similar price bracket for durability. The hop unit is again decently made from plastic, the outer barrel on my example is nicely finished brass and I have no compulsion to replace it. The hop rubber is a split mound type, which to be fair worked well enough in the time I used it, but ultimately will be replaced with a ML/Omega combo. I'll cover the Gearbox internals another time - but it's a heavy beast of a thing and I have no doubt the shell it as tough you will ever need. The bolt release issue I had was rectified with a slight tweak of the mock-bolt - it is quite thin metal. I will be tackling the gearbox later, but based on a few videos I've seen for KWAs, the Piston and Piston head would be worth replacing from the outset.

Thank you @Shamal for showing me the ropes today at the Bunker - never been to a site with 'you are here' maps because the layout is so complex. I'll be back later in the year! I want to hit UCAP Valiant at Dorchester next.

Allegedly the Maxx ME is KWA compatible. Not cheap though. And airsoft, being airsoft, means that there's no guarantee that it's a drop-in fit even if it says it should.