Speedbird_666

Cheap'n'cheerful: ebay or Ant-Supplies You'll need AEG fitting, not GBB.

IPA might not be enough for brasso. I would be soaking in hot soapy water, and a thorough clean/dry without any solvents. Otherwise, have you tested another inner barrel? If there's buildup after a couple of mags you can rule out the barrel and focus on other contact points for the BB (Hop Unit, Nozzle etc.)

Well, @Rogerborg might know…

What did you polish the barrel with?

I like the cut of your jib, good sir. You could probably cancel as it hasn't been shipped yet?

Short answer - yeah, you screwed up. ICS receivers are proprietary and designed exclusively for their split gearboxes. I wouldn't even try - find another gun as your base.

This. I had to service my Neighbours ICS L85 (after the trigger contacts burnt out) and found it easy to work on. I was pleasantly surprised. Also, ICS has good spares availability via Fire-Support. So if you do break something, replacements can be sourced relatively easily. I don't think the same could be said for G&G.

Essentially yes - they have a 'handling fee' for small orders (£4.99) but they don't seem to apply any shipping charges to the basket even if the total of the order + handling fee is still below the free shipping threshold. As I was close the cutoff it was cheaper to add a couple of extra bits to not pay the fee. I really like EcoWire - I find it nice to work with, good value when you buy it by the reel compared to 'Airsoft prices'.

I only ordered one pair to make up CPC Farnells minimum order - two arrived in the box....so one's a freebie. Bonus.

The gun has now been fully re-wired with Alphawire and a Mosfet added - found a simple (but slightly chunky) Acetech AceMOS plus unit lurking in my electronics box that I forgot I bought 3-4 years ago. Shimming has been tweaked on the Sector and Spur gear, and sounds a bit better than before. Left the bevel as-is. The stock motor is shit - hands down the weakest link on the gun. I am able to lock the gun up on an 11.1v and it gets really frikkin hot after a few seconds of firing. So it's got speed, but not decent torque and definitely no efficiency. Put an SHS 16TPA Hi-torque motor in - major over-spin/double shooting on an 11.1v. Switched to a 7.4v LiPo and it seems happy enough - trigger response roughly equal to the stock motor but without any lockups, around 16-17 RPS full auto and running pretty cool temperature-wise. So now it's very usable as-is, but I want an even snappier trigger response, so the next step is a 22TPA motor on an 11.1v. Hoping to keep it around 17-18 RPS, but with the extra torque for semi-auto.

30m of AlphaWire Eco (I've re-wired a gun already), ICS metal Hop unit (my plastic one broke on Sunday) and a few other bits for Airsoft projects:

The nozzle, when looking in the hop unit from the magwell, should be blue. Older ones were clear. The gearbox casing should be silver, older ones were black. The cylinder should be shiny dark silver, older ones were brass.

I hope those are just stickers covering the trades?

When you use very heavy BBs at CQB distances, it only serve to increase pain on your target. Pure and simple. I wouldn't necessarily have a problem with this - except that kids play airsoft too. And at that point it just becomes cruel. Fortunately my sons opted out of playing the Bunker on Sunday, and after I showed them my 'war wounds' from the day, they very much affirmed that they have no desire to play there themselves. So with that in mind, I understand why some CQB sites will set a weight limit on the BB's.

Have you still got it, or have you binned it off now?

No idea - infliction of pain? At the ranges we were shooting at, there was no need for additional 'accuracy'. It's about energy retention of the BB during it's flight. Muzzle energy is measured at the muzzle (obvs) - not 20-30ft away at your target. Try putting the muzzle on your thigh and firing a shot point blank- THAT is 1J of muzzle energy. And painful. Lower weight BB's are faster out of the gun, but shed their energy quicker than slower moving, but much heavier BBs. Felt force on the target will always be higher with heavier BB's, especially at CQB ranges.

@MAX DICKER And that's why I run paintball goggles pretty much exclusively for Airsoft these days, especially CQB. Played at Portsmouth's Bunker on Sunday (I'm assuming yours is the Welsh one) for the first time and my god, those nutters (read: regulars) were running super heavy BB's , the chrono marshall was saying that some were running .36s to .40s. In an underground CQB bunker with around 15-20ft of visibility after a few Pyros went off - I experienced some of the most painful hits I've had playing in 16-17 years. Also had some similar issues to you - trading with players a 5ft range and them refusing to take the hit, being accused of cheating, despite a Marshall watching me, and only me, during the entire game whilst I was holding a key bottleneck on the field (he told the accusing player to basically fuck off - top bloke IMO). Both sides whinging about hit taking in the safe zone yadda yadda yadda.... But to be fair, the Marshalls were pretty spot-on dealing with the problems throughout and that's why I would play there again - just with a tracer unit and the heaviest tracer BB's I can lay my hands on next time.

Thank you Captain Obvious, who's your trusty sidekick.... Hindsight-Boy? 😏 In all seriousness, I was aware of the proprietary nature of KWA before purchase. But it was the first gun in ages (read:years) that I truly wanted to buy as soon as I set eyes on it. So much so I ordered it the day it was released in the UK. Was it my most sensible purchase? - no. But I don't regret it really now. I know with a few internal tweaks there's a lovely gun to be had there. I've had far worse guns for the money that I paid for this (£244) and nothing comes close to the external build quality at this price point. There's nothing wrong with the internals either (it's built like a tank) apart from the abysmal amp-hungry stock motor.

Problem is - the only drop-in unit that work in a KWA is the Titan. The sensor for the sector gear on the Perun Hybrid and indeed the Gate Aster sits 1-2mm too low to pick up the rotation thanks to KWA's proprietary gearbox shell. That's pretty much what I was looking at. Good info - thanks!

Seems like the NanoASR is out of stock in a lot of places, and I stupidly sold some last year that were gathering dust in my parts box. Z1 (my local) has NanoHARDs in stock for a tenner more - I suppose I could use that with the AB switched off. Otherwise I was tempted to get a Perun AB++, as the ETU++ in my son's G&G has been great, I know I won't get the full feature set (i.e. cycle completion), but it'll do a few features that might be worth playing around with. And yep - long shaft motor.

Ok, I'll keep this quick. Situation: - Got a KWA gun with an (allegedly) 14TPA motor out of the box but there's no way it has neo magnets. - Said KWA gun does 23RPS on an 11.1v LiPo - which is waaay more than I need - I bought this primarily for semi-only CQB. - Trigger response is good on an 11.1v and want to keep using 11.1v LiPos as I have a bunch of RC ones that fit the gun. - Stock gear set is 18:1 and I don't want to replace or short stroke them - Current draw is mental - drained a 1300mah LiPo to 45% in the space of one Hi-cap - Motor (and by association pistol grip) gets super hot and the the smell is not pleasant - I'm seeing burning/pitting on the trigger switch shuttle already after 30mins of use which implies a high current draw with the current setup Looking for: - Cool running, efficiency & reliability (yeah - I know it's Airsoft) - Drop the ROF down to ~18RPS on a 11.1v, which is more than enough for what I need - Want to keep the trigger as snappy, if not snappier than what I've already got - but not to the extent where I have to drop 50% of the gun's value on a Titan and start short stroking gears. Old school trigger shuttle is fine. I'm thinking of: - Rewiring with 16AWG Alphawire and adding a simple Mosfet (Gate PicoSSR3 or something) at the same time - Buying a 22TPA motor to replace the stock one, emphasising torque and semi response over ROF Thoughts on the above would be appreciated!

Umm...technology yes. Build quality?.....no. I would take the G&G plastic body over any Edge metal body and if out-of-the-box reliability was a primary concern, well, I would also choose the G&G for that too. (Source: I have a Specna Edge 1.0 and a G&G CM16 SRS). QC for Specnas has been notoriously poor (although many would say it's improving). On paper, the specs on the Specna Edge 2.0 look amazing. Reality is, you'll either end up with a good gun that works decent enough out of the box. Or you'll end up with a complete shit-show assembled by the Friday afternoon shift. I suppose you could say that for any Airsoft gun, but Specnas had a much higher lemon rate for some time**. My advice? Go to an airsoft shop (if you can) and fondle as many guns as you can. You will soon start to understand what RIFs make your bollocks tingle with excitement. Let's face it, 90% of RIF purchases are not 'sensible' choices, rather they are derived from what people find 'coolest'. ** The Specna fanbois will be along shortly to tell you that their gun is amazeballs.

Except when the trigger switch assembly is proprietary and nowhere in the UK stocks them.....I've just found that one out the hard way....😪 Sooo...a cheap (non-AB) mosfet will be going into my particular gun, just so I don't have to order replacement trigger contacts from the US or HK later on. Oh - this is after 30mins of gameplay on an 11.1v LiPo with said gun:

Just ordered a 30m Reel of AlphaWire Eco 16AWG hookup wire in a rather fetching shade of white just to be different. Should be enough to re-wire a couple dozen guns in the future. I've found the stuff very easy to use on various AEG wiring jobs in the past.