Speedbird_666

Got a receiver side on the printer to test. Gotta get used to Prusa Slicer (only really familiar with Cura), but using the recommended settings it seems to be printing OK on an Ender 3 V2 so far.

Very cool mate - I have downloaded the files and will have a look at printing my own.

Fuck me, I never spent close to that with my racing drones. Although it was a fair few years ago when Fatsharks barely existed and we strapped huge boxes with screens to our faces. Fun times.

Pit Vipers? Seriously? ? They will cost more than the OPs gun once shipped. They look cool, in a deeply retro uncool way, but a bit much for a new player don't you think?

Thank you! I've been trying to remember the name of a mount I saw a few months back and that's the one. I've quickly knocked up a version with Overbore-style cuts - not perfect (the bottom triangle is slightly too small but I wanted to keep the large fillet for strength) but it gives the general impression. As to your cheek weld question - I would say maybe not. That's something that gets lost with mounts this high, but as this dude says, cheek welds are thing of the past (yeah, it's a pretty bold statement that many would disagree with.)

It is taller. The height was a very rough guesstimate of the GBRS mount which is huge. Currently the 'rise' of the mount (top of the receiver pic rail to the top of the mount pic rail) is 52mm. Places the centre of the red dot at ~70mm or 2.75in. Won't be everyone's cup of tea, but the more I shoulder the gun with it, the more I like the concept, even just for Airsoft purposes to get around wearing paintball goggles. Looks better than angled drop stocks that I was playing with, and at least I can argue that there is real steel precedence for a tall mount, even if it looks a bit odd.

Looks a little less goofy and mounts much better now as a single-piece clamping design: Just waiting on a delivery of black filament today so I can print the final version.

It's a Geissele SMR Rail replica.

Aliexpress is probably your best bet: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003932094912.html?spm=a2g0o.search0304.0.0.3cd56cad9QMFTj&algo_pvid=9a7ef231-4b4c-4a7f-87af-b6d759783f8a&algo_exp_id=9a7ef231-4b4c-4a7f-87af-b6d759783f8a-7 Most places in the UK seem to be out of stock.

I'm happy to make you one for a couple quid to cover filament/postage costs once I've finished with the design. Latest revision is on the printer now. As I've said to you before I don't like the idea of profiting from anything I make simply because once I'm not an engineer or product designer by trade - I work with spreadsheets for a Bank as my day job. I cannot guarantee a 'product' that I make won't fail even with 'normal' use at some point in the future, and crossing that line into a mini 'business' means I have to assume a degree of responsibility over said product - hope that makes sense?

@Druid799 ? It's not quite as bad as that...I've refined the design a fair bit so it doesn't look so - blocky. I've added a few Unity mount style cuts and changed to a single piece design.

Seems like the real-steel-mall-ninja-cool-kids stateside are making 'NV' height optics a 'thing', especially after the former DEVGRU guys at GBRS Group have been extolling the virtues of 'heads up' shooting in CQB to maintain situational awareness. Thought I give it a go - I dub thee the 'tower-block' riser: Yes, it looks ridiculous. But they might be onto something. It feels very natural and works much better with Paintball goggles in the Airsoft context. This was the initial inspiration for 'going high': Along with: https://youtu.be/BuYNpTYJb7k

By all accounts minor component changes, but I think the shell is the same. E&C produce some of the Specna line (maybe the One or A series?). E&C-based guns are pretty good. My Specna V1 Edge now has been running an E&C 'box for a while. With a couple of shims and a re-grease it's working pretty nicely and a worthy upgrade base.

Action Army? You mean Classic Army right? I wouldn't buy any of them TBH. Reasons: - G&G. Pretty much a mildly-upgraded £150 Combat Machine stuffed into a metal body with a stupid price tag. Desperately lacking in features for the cost (no QC Spring for example). G&G are rapidly pricing themselves out of the market, especially as they have recently announced new price increases across the board. - Classic Army. Struggling to stay relevant in a world full of decent replicas. I hear that the compression parts on the higher-end models might be 'bore up' sized, if so upgrade/replacement options might be limited. Not 100% on that though, so I suggest a bit of research first. - Ares is just, well, Ares. Proprietary wank with questionable reliability on the internals. Looks good on the outside though . For similar money you could be buying Kytac, KWA, or higher-end ICS - each admittedly have their own proprietary 'quirks' but have better support than Classic Army/Ares. If you are planning to perform serious upgrades to any gun you buy, there's not much point pitching your budget where you are at the moment. May as well buy a cheaper gun from the outset and build it how you want it. But you won't do that. Because this is Airsoft. And people never want to hear sensible ideas.

That's where a 3D printer comes in really handy for one-off jigs and tools.

Most rentals I come across are JG G36s. Pretty much bomb proof and somewhat underrated IMO. To the OP - there will never be a consensus for this price category (<£200). It's a hotly contested segment of the market, and there are new products released on a near-monthly basis, along with numerous re-brands from the same OEMs. As mentioned, quality varies greatly, even with the same manufacturers (looking at you Specna). If you need batteries (plural - one won't be enough) and a charger, realistically you will have less than £150 from your budget for the actual gun.

Not for some time methinks - there's the small issue of the millions of 5.56mm rounds knocking around in NATO member stocks.

Either way, surely the points you've raised have been labored enough already? He got caught out through this thread, Mods stepped in to remove the Ad, tried to justify his actions on here (which, again, is more than many have done in the past), met with a healthy dose of (justified) skepticism, pledged to mend his ways. Macks is a beautiful thing - it has eyes and ears everywhere. If he tries it again - we will find out.

Well, at least he had the testicles to actually come onto the thread and try to defend himself. More than what can be said for the likes of Andrey and Avenger63 in the past.

Don't forget to switch the Mini-Tamiya Connector Pins over...?

I would be willing to bet that 95% of Airsofters wouldn't know what Internal Resistance is, let alone verify the accuracy on a specific charger model. The B6 V2 is not a model that comes up often in conversations on here, unlike the numerous cheap B6 (v1) clones/knockoffs that proliferate through Amazon and eBay that Airsofters seem to gravitate to. I mean, there are people that would gladly drop huge cash on stuff like a Maxx hop units/gucci red dots/scopes/stocks etc, yet balk at the idea of spending more than £25 for a decent charger. I see you've also asked this question across several other forums (RC and Rocketery), I would expect that they would be better placed to comment on it.

Not quite sure what you mean. There's no polarity issue for anything other than mini-tamiya fitted guns- you can thank Tokyo Marui for the issue originally. But Mini-Tamiyas can be de-pinned from their plastic housing and swapped over if needed. There are established standards for polarity wiring on both Deans and XT30/60. It's even moulded into the plastic on many plugs telling you where to solder each wire. Guns manufactured with deans fitted from the factory follow that standard, along with LiPos with Deans pre-fitted. The only issue is if someone retrofits Deans themselves and cocks up the polarity when soldering the wires on. So this will work perfectly to charge an Airsoft LiPo fitted with Deans using an S65 charger. It does not have to be Airsoft specific at all.

Polarity-switch only applies to Mini-Tamiya connectors and if you get it wrong, the charger will warn you and not charge. It's then just a case of de-pinning the charger side connector and swapping them over. I made the XT60 to Deans connectors - It's only a 5min job with a decent soldering iron. Personally, I dislike Deans intensely (XT30/60 is a much better choice) but airsoft being airsoft, with people and manufacturers clinging to outdated technology and standards, it's just easier to keep using them.

@ScottWilliamson If you took more than two milliseconds to properly check these forums you will see there is a large Classifieds section to sell your wares. There's a button right at the top of the page.

New charger arrived today. It's a belated Birthday present from my son. It's bloody quick to charge, the balance logic and balance amperage is light-years ahead of my old chargers. Colour IPS screen is very nice to use too.