Sitting Duck

A torch helps to avoid bruised nose walking splat into walls on your way back. On average you can get by once your eyes adjust but some outskirts are jet black darkness for a few feet or so. That is when you walk splat into wall or barricade returning to safe/respawn zone Eat your carrots and you should be fine

at a rough rough first guess it sounds like cut off lever problem.... very likely the spring on the cut off lever may be weak/w@nked missing or the operation of the lever is sticking and not returning 101% hence you may be getting the dead zone where lever is still slightly up and switch/trigger won't engage properly the full auto is likely to be where the lever is stuck further up - just like on full auto cut off lever sticking or spring crap is my guess hopefully not cut off lever itself - might be an easy external gearbox fix with new spring and dab of silicone to free it up if sticking

Thing is is a fet is in there then the donkey work has been done if it does go tits up then best replace with another - but not a G&G one a £10 one would suffice or go for a bells n whistle one if you really want but a basic £10 one will do the job

42w is nice - but G&G is better - own both + SRC (deffo not as good) ICS is a close second to G&G M4's - slightly faster rof on ICS out of box but G&G are perhaps built a bit better plus lots of styles to choose from - some with ris etc.... ICS do them but usually the cheaper starter guns are just like the 42's or G&G carbines - no rails

I am gonna guess you got a ICS 42 or something and are happy with it or you asking for something similar ???

2 main areas in box is piston o-ring and cylinder head seals piston o-ring is crap - you can stretch it but it often shrinks back a bit so good compression will only last a short while (some heat the o-ring to retain the stretch but ffs just get a new one or anything that isn't stretched) you can buy a pack real cheap and try to stretch one of them with heat if still not brilliant seal/compression as you will have some spares - always good to have, then if you snap or screw up the o-ring then you ain't boned the new piston head should be better but consider a few spare bits n bobs at some point (heck even buy a mixed box of o-rings on fleabay for a few quid, some may work and any smaller ones may come in handy for other bits n bobs - eg tiny o-ring on barrel to reduce inner barrel wobble etc........

uhmmm - you might just need a new o-ring, some ptfe tape on cylinder head and maybe an o-ring nozzle bit of grease etc.... new piston will mean f*ck all - as long as teeth ok and is moving smoothly it is fine for job get a few o-rings and ensure you can't compress the piston & piston head if anything a new cylinder head but not always an absolute must - it is how parts: top dollar top of the range or some old spare bits knocking about - if they work in good condition and fit well together..... then it is all down to how them parts are fitted that counts

sounds like it - shame looks like a nice co2 pistol probably a bugger to get parts/mags for over here I bet Glocky - bet Lozart would love it

The restocking fee should only apply if you cancel after they paint it here is an email I got - have defense/ukara but they were taking too f*cking long to get the stuff shipped I said forget it as it was in the run up to xmas and didn't want it delayed in customs until new year.... The $75 paint job they was charging me was for 2 guns btw not easily availble in UK I emailed them my ukara but they still was taking too long to prepare for shipping got full refund reasonably quickly - shame but ho hum send 'em ukara if you have it or pay for paint or cancel (you probably get shafted with customs anyway) Also Airsoft GI do international shipping to UK and you can pre-pay the customs fee in advance still not cheap but at least you know what the final costings should be

for rough giggles what you get on a 7.4v lipo say 20rps when you go to 11.1v lipo expect the rps to be aprox 50% more = 30rps due to you going from 2 x 3.7v cells to 3 x 3.7v cells good chrono - got one myself and does help a little unsure of this bit: normally a standard aeg cylinder is really suited for barrels up to 455 to about 510max (over this is usually for the longer L85/SR25/SVD aeg cylinders with 19 not 16 teeth sector gears) I would of guessed stock barrel might have been in range of about 300 to 363 max for some scars but could be up to 510mm on extended versions which is imho the max you can squeeze out of std aeg cylinders anyway if your barrel is 565 you are a tiny bit over the limits but like anything see how it goes if you have perfect seals etc..... tbb and bore up cylinders make little difference to volume ratios - performance yes but the ratios hardly change much even if you bang in 6.08 or 6.02 barrels - it is 0.06mm or 1% difference - hardly matters to volume ratio piston weight can vary a lot - 15gms to 30+gms all steel teeth is not good if PE takes place - the first inital pickup tooth and the first few plastic teeth strip nicely better than all steel teeth that don't strip - therefore no weakpoint and so nothing strips = BANG all metal PE (metal teeth is fine if you are not getting too close to PE - if pushing it then 50/50 or a few plastic teeth is safer) if this takes place short stroke & use a higher spring I would of thought you might have nearer 30rps on 11.1v with A1 motor anyway record it a sec or two and drop the wav file in audiocity on pc, counting the number of "spikes" in a second do this on 7.4v give it 50% and you can get a rough idea of what to expect on 11.1v We are all still learning - the more we build/break the more we learn = wisdom It is all a fun learning curve that we hope to ensure our next build/tweak is better than the previous build HPA - pah where's the mechanical "fun" in that though I'm sure one day I will get one too the US link to high speed is good but peeps need to remember we got lower limits which m120 will put us well over so we can go only so far on m100/105 before we need to short stroke m120 for over 30+rps builds to avoid PE Hopefully your chrono will arrive soon to do some tests properly m110 would put you over and tbb even more - some good m100 springs with good seals can hit 350+ so you "could" be @ 380fps or more - but all builds are different so see what she chrono's at plus different makes of springs can give higher/lower figures I have a feeling a SHS M100 is as strong if not a smidge stronger than an Element M105 spring see what happens when ya chrono rather than we continue to speculate

greets from Saaaaaaaaaath Lundun / Croydon

nope but I don't like contact us form and not knowing wtf they are heck even a UK fone number would be a start sounds to me like they got something to hide and drop-shipping is far east term usually unless they got something really must have I'd try a more reputable/proven retailer first

Well if you have spoke to them and they have arranged the shipping it is down to them (personally if it was that boned and dangerous I would of said keep that mofo battery or send it to Syria or something) Like many things though it isn't probably THAT dangerous in its current state it is when you try to use it or charge it - then it becomes a hazard

What is your rof with 7.4v & 11.1v ??? shreading gears can be done on 11.1v with a good motor and heavy piston M110 would put you over 350 - 360+ usually if seals were good as you approach high 20's to low 30's - don't matter how you do this: 11.1v on stock or 7.4v on high speed gears you can get pre engagement - more on low m90 - 100 springs with a heavy 30gms piston (metal piston head and all steel teeth etc....) exactly how fast do you seek to fire at may I ask...... 20-25rps, 30rps - can be done on 7.4v later is using higher speed gears btw 30-37rps to 45rps can be done on 11.1v but at 30+ you run risk of PE to avoid this you need to fit stronger m120 spring and short stroke - remove 1 or 2 teeth reducing full piston stroke from say 50mm to 44mm - (should be fine unless your gun has a 450 to 510 max barrel of normal piston) I presume it has say a 300 to 400mm length with ported cylinder your gearbox will be fine I'm sure if you have a sorbo pad to correct AOE and reduce impact plus the front corners of cylinder-gearbox shell should be rounded or radius this rounding of the corners reduces the chance of cracks appearing at front of box Think about it - sharp 90 degree V corner will be more prone to fracture than a curved - non-sharp pointed internal corner - many manufacturers are now starting to do this even in cheaper guns However - be aware despit all efforts you take to reduce PE and cracking of shell The faster your gun fires to quicker in theory she will fail due to heat & wear (you cane anything enough and it will very likely fail - be it a car/motor bike or your aeg) plus not all mags will feed perfectly at the higher speeds so like I say establish just how fast you wish to go massive difference say from stock 14 to say 23 on the Lonex motor upgrade but not so easy to notice a massive difference 23 to 32 another 9 rps (plus the extra work it may require and doubt if you will gain/notice a further 9 from 32 to 41rps say) well said this all before a few times but look here: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/26210-gearbox-internal-help-higher-rof/#entry196340 and the airsoft society link is a brilliant breakdown of what to do once you decide how nutz you wanna go

There "might" be room to re-run it externally on box but inside receiver as long as wire isn't too thick but really depends on what you find once you open her up cheers for G&G mp5 info - there might be a chance it could be easier than I first thought my experience has only so far been with a few Galaxy's Mp5k & mp5m

Just checked a 6mm/209 blank and the "copper" case is magnetic against an earth magnet which might be handy to include perhaps in the final design helping to stop them rolling around Dunno if the magnetic field would create other problems though but if not used to hold them, perhaps magentic stick/stylus or something could be used to pick up or withdraw then from tube spring tube thingy is what ya want - only down side if they are stacked in tube and one somehow might detonate = chain reaction but suppose the spring loader with a rubber base once loaded would reduce rattle risk side withdrawl is a very good idea, maybe oversleeve to cover hole oversleeve could slide back or other hole in it to turn & align with tube hole etc.... if you get the idea great if you don't - don't worry about it

baby mp5k's use v3 gearbox (long motors/no motor cage/frame) and so wiring is external - easy most "normal" mp5's use v2 boxes so if front wired then you may have to open up box & re-route through gearbox for rear and was calling the gun baby - not the OP btw

There's no blue paint on it - bargain soz I'm getting carried away now - best get some kip and sleep off this annoying urge to derail any thread I see (well more than usual - shouldn't eat M&M's on an empty stomach)

Airsoft Dalek - call PT247 FFS Avery old underground BBC "comedy of errors" from decades ago but a genuine adult compilation of funny moments & mishaps - very young michael aspel goes to investigate some technical hitches wait - wait for dalek to arrive & listen to them going on.......

http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/umarex-m135#c45:sort3:page1:infscr4496 3 types of Umarex - under £80 already 2-tone blue MP5 UMP & G36c - G36c looks tempting but unsure how compatible the mags are with normal Cyma/JG ones MP5 says about only 30 day warranty but not on 36 page unsure if these are old stock/ex demo/ returns or what new old etc..... BUT still £80 - you could buy a lot worse from the BB sites out there (shame no AK or M4's - no stop it I don't need anything else) See I get stuff like this in my inbox and people wonder why I keep buying guns.......

Oooh ya cow You ain't from US ???

work on them and some plinkers are yours m8 can't bring myself to throw 'em just in case I fancy a crazy techy challenge like a DIY Polarstar in a BullDog for giggles