Sitting Duck

no cuddly toy or wobbly man ???

It will increase on the motor, which may be slightly related to rise in temp on battery. Pointed out spamming on semi greatly increases the strain and dunno how warm or hot peoples own definition is on what they call hot or warm. I would of thought the wires of battery should get warm like most of the whole circuit but again how warm in exact temps is open to people's own interpretation of warm to hot. 30c battery is plenty for now on a lightly tweak build but better capacity would be good AB is not really needed for most builds but know a few on here use AB fet's - it can increase load/heat on motor but all builds n motor makes can vary so see how it goes. If you can see how she runs without AB might help, Order up or see what size battery options n volts are available. Try HobbyKing's battery locator to see what big capacity batteries might fit in your gun's stock etc.... Soz for any " get " 's n other typo's as my fone is mental with predicted text

Also a freshly charged 7.4v will put out at least 1v fresh off charge. So you could charge up battery and see how she performs with say 8.4v to 8.5v from ya 7.4v lipo Pointing this out coz sometimes you can just scrape by with a 11.1v but a fresh one pushing 12.2v+ could spell PE BAAAANNNNGGGGGG

The temp is from active braking If you have the merf fet in there or an AB Get Which you don't really need. The most I have got on stock is 24.8 RPS on a v3 with very thick wire soldered to motor. V2 is a bitch to solder n remove wires to motor so your 21rps is about right on stock 18:1 gears You can expect 27 to 30 on 13:1 gears. Or try a 9.9 LiFe battery but limited range n Max 25c is what I have found. If you connect 11.1v you will hit 30+ which is risky If you have the merf 3.2 I don't know if you can enable/disable active breaking but that could be where some heat is generated. Spamming trigger on semi - say 120 shots in 1 minute really strains the get n wiring far more than 5 mins on auto, guy on YouTube showed me that n he really knows his stuff. If a fet passes the 120 in 60 sec test it is good to go in my book but that is a normal 3034 fet - non an braking btw

There is something deffo different about gen 1 src's boxes - I know some JG's need a tweak to go in say some cyma's but maybe a SRC box might go in an old JG M4 as the both might have had the 2 piece hop unit but a guy on here found out putting his old src box - the top lugs broke on top src plastic receiver so he bought a full metal receiver then kinda came unstuck trying to fit it 101% correctly - got the hump and decided to cut losses and buy new (non-src gun) I bought it as spares - using another 8mm gearbox in receiver and kept the rest for spares OP - who rewired it ??? but I know the sector is crap - so you may just need a better shs sector gear - lmk what gear shredded and did it take anything else with it

any gears will do. to replace the boned one (well v2 / v3 gears in case somebody says about L85 v6 v7 or longer tooth sr25) sounds ironic that it failed so soon after rewire....... out of interest - can you clarify something...... what gear failed - my hunch is sector gear - one that is half moon shape toothed to pull piston Those bastid SRC sectors are real crap - twice theve smashed and lost teeth quicker than a pub brawl is the Gearbox a grey silvery type of box with say 6mm green plastic bushings in there ??? if it has green 6mm bushings it is same box as fitted to not so great SRC M4's reason I ask is that they are ever so slightly slightly different to other normal M4 v2 boxes The holes are slightly slight different - sounds bollox but I bought a metal receiver M4 of somebody on here that they reshelled a SRC M4 and the tiny thin M4 pin didn't quite line up 101% in the other make M4 receiver swapped src box for another box and went in no problem also found forcing a proper m4 box into a plastic dragon makes a bitchy noisey box so though your mp5 might be different and you may have a gen 2 or gen 3 v2 box (higher gen or revisions have steel bearings instead of pi$$ poor 6mm plastic bushings) it might have 8mm bearings if gen 3 v2 box - but I can't 101% say for deffo any v2 box will go in there perfectly without a tiny tweak even if you buy a v2 box chances are it will be M4 so will need to swap mp5 selector plate over (not 101% sure if nozzle will need changing to from M4 to MP5 - seen them but unsure if it is for mp5k's or normal mp5's too) I'd look into getting the existing box re-done perhaps - might only need a new sector installed properly

agreed - uk 2-tone version: http://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/hg-104-m92f-beretta-hfc-hg-104-m92-gas-pistol.html#.VVw0SPDp8i4 don't forget green gas only springer you should consider is a shotgun or sniper

I play for fun - just as well as my site is hardly for the more hard core pro players...... but even though I go to have fun - I do get a bit pi$$ed if I am running my out of shape unfit ar$e off back 30 paces off I go again trying to get that little nooby kiddy rental that keeps shooting my ar$e off only to keep finding Betty, Mavis, Rene & Gene still jabbering away out of range back at the start ffs lads - lets all get stuck in, spread out, charge at the bastids and try to take this position in a quicker time than they did Nope - they are still rabbiting away wondering why some of their team are shaking their heads as we respawn 30 paces back coz we are a few old dear's short when we advance Yes - peeps pay their money and can play how they like, I can put up with people appointing themselves generals. Get told to push up even though we got no f*cking chance advancing straight ahead Even being shot by my own colour blind team mates that think anybody in front of them MUST be enemy YELLOW FFS SAME AS YOU YA BELL-END !!! but peeps having a good old chinwag whilst others run their ar$e off - jeez guys you can pick out curtains next game in the dead zone ffs

me personally I'd pay a few quid more and get the 028a - the top cover is metal if the other is like the Spartac ones on GF then the 052 is probably plastic top cover or if you want more rails n stuff 039c - but dunno about M4 stock plus 39c battery will be under top cover unlike the others in rear stock though tbh you might as well get whatever you like and look into replacing top cover with a railed one or adapt your own cover with rail that is if you want a 47 - little 74 makes a good little 'un too My own feeling is they ain't quite as ergonomic as same old M4's me I can't flick from semi to auto n back again quickly like on M4's if using for cqb/open/cqb areas but AK's do kick ar$e airsoft wise and cyma's excel in this value for money wise whatever one you get

I'm no skilled player but I will have a go and assault - usually trying to go wide than just run in a straight line at 'em sometimes you are pinned down and get the gobby one at the back shouting push up...... ffs dickhead - you push wide or figure out a flank or something coz this ain't working in my book atm The thing though that pi$$es me off the most is you rushing back n forth - killed/respawn/killed/respawn and you see the same 3 or 4 people still f*cking chatting about corned beef, last nights telly, ooh where did you buy that grip/sight Ergh guys - not being funny but that aeg ya holding if you could perhaps display it towards the enemy maybe and just now n then squeeze a few shots off - if you feel up to it maybe just maybe if you can perhaps JOIN IN THE F*CKING GAME !!!!! yup now n then I might slope off for a smoke or reload or visit safe zone but ffs I try n pick my moment (usually I'm out of game on limited lives etc.....) But all games are different, players are different, In no skilled player but guys chat when round/game is over

Some sites stick to 328 - think Mall in Reading is 328 - absolute max they allow you to scrape by with is 340 so 350 would be too hot FPS as RR01 said don't mean or guarantee range - that 5% to 10% means jack if your gun is setup badly eg: Tokyo Marui often fire at 300 but will kick most gun's ar$e out of the box Buy gun - most will shoot at around 320 to 330 out of box - so in effect they come with a stock m100-ish spring 6 months down the line if you notice spring/seal decrease, then pay for service, new seals, regrease, new spring etc.... or pay for new spring now - and in 6 months time still notice you still may need a service

the guide is that a M100 = 100 metres per second or 328fps therefore a m90 is supposed to be 90% of 328 = 295fps...... However - spring performance can vary from different manufactures - often a m100 is a smidge more... SHS m100's many have squeezed 350+ from it but then again it depends on good seals and more importantly good assembly Element do springs in m5 gradients so you can get m90, m95, m100, m105, m110, m115 in fairness I think an Element m105 is about same as shs m100 All springs lose tension - especially if parked half cocked/spring compressed for a while snipers usually find they lose at least 10% in a few months and often change springs frequently to maintain max fps depending on site limits and your gun most here will run with m95 m100 m105 but all guns are slightly different if a gun has so-so seals or bad seal on hop many may use a m110 - normally a bit too much to compensate for any leak/drop

Yeah was gonna say - no way was it that lit when I played at best - gloomy to very dark to pitch black now n then at intersections watch for your own glim shadow giving you away no matter how quetly you try to be (which on zombie game they pump out horror theme noises/music too) even the regulars hardly used a flash - just now n then a quite millisecond flash to check corridor but that quick burst of light has alerted peeps a few blocks away...... One of the guys was using a 50/50 tracer mix ob bb's to see bb's hitting/deflecting off any non hittakers little tiny glowing bb's on the floor for a while - he was a good bloke too even if I did light him up by mistake when it was semi only - oops should be sampled - a little intense full on at times but if you like adrenalin flowing through you then this could be your thing to try next

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/3581-new-and-looking-for-somewhere-to-play/

A torch helps to avoid bruised nose walking splat into walls on your way back. On average you can get by once your eyes adjust but some outskirts are jet black darkness for a few feet or so. That is when you walk splat into wall or barricade returning to safe/respawn zone Eat your carrots and you should be fine

at a rough rough first guess it sounds like cut off lever problem.... very likely the spring on the cut off lever may be weak/w@nked missing or the operation of the lever is sticking and not returning 101% hence you may be getting the dead zone where lever is still slightly up and switch/trigger won't engage properly the full auto is likely to be where the lever is stuck further up - just like on full auto cut off lever sticking or spring crap is my guess hopefully not cut off lever itself - might be an easy external gearbox fix with new spring and dab of silicone to free it up if sticking

Thing is is a fet is in there then the donkey work has been done if it does go tits up then best replace with another - but not a G&G one a £10 one would suffice or go for a bells n whistle one if you really want but a basic £10 one will do the job

42w is nice - but G&G is better - own both + SRC (deffo not as good) ICS is a close second to G&G M4's - slightly faster rof on ICS out of box but G&G are perhaps built a bit better plus lots of styles to choose from - some with ris etc.... ICS do them but usually the cheaper starter guns are just like the 42's or G&G carbines - no rails

I am gonna guess you got a ICS 42 or something and are happy with it or you asking for something similar ???

2 main areas in box is piston o-ring and cylinder head seals piston o-ring is crap - you can stretch it but it often shrinks back a bit so good compression will only last a short while (some heat the o-ring to retain the stretch but ffs just get a new one or anything that isn't stretched) you can buy a pack real cheap and try to stretch one of them with heat if still not brilliant seal/compression as you will have some spares - always good to have, then if you snap or screw up the o-ring then you ain't boned the new piston head should be better but consider a few spare bits n bobs at some point (heck even buy a mixed box of o-rings on fleabay for a few quid, some may work and any smaller ones may come in handy for other bits n bobs - eg tiny o-ring on barrel to reduce inner barrel wobble etc........

uhmmm - you might just need a new o-ring, some ptfe tape on cylinder head and maybe an o-ring nozzle bit of grease etc.... new piston will mean f*ck all - as long as teeth ok and is moving smoothly it is fine for job get a few o-rings and ensure you can't compress the piston & piston head if anything a new cylinder head but not always an absolute must - it is how parts: top dollar top of the range or some old spare bits knocking about - if they work in good condition and fit well together..... then it is all down to how them parts are fitted that counts

sounds like it - shame looks like a nice co2 pistol probably a bugger to get parts/mags for over here I bet Glocky - bet Lozart would love it

The restocking fee should only apply if you cancel after they paint it here is an email I got - have defense/ukara but they were taking too f*cking long to get the stuff shipped I said forget it as it was in the run up to xmas and didn't want it delayed in customs until new year.... The $75 paint job they was charging me was for 2 guns btw not easily availble in UK I emailed them my ukara but they still was taking too long to prepare for shipping got full refund reasonably quickly - shame but ho hum send 'em ukara if you have it or pay for paint or cancel (you probably get shafted with customs anyway) Also Airsoft GI do international shipping to UK and you can pre-pay the customs fee in advance still not cheap but at least you know what the final costings should be