Sitting Duck

carbine - battery upfront ???? best use hobbyking's battery locator and work out what you can get in there 7.4v atm make up rolled up cardboard - sticky back plastic washing up bottle blue peter style serious make up something like the battery size - a tiny bit bigger to be on safe side my guess zippy compacts are good compact lipo's but turnigy nano tech are also good compact lipo's

I have offered you sound honest advice to your request to break the very rules and guidelines that allow us to continue the sport if you wish to take it to pm - by all means go ahead but to start directly insulting me just shows not only you are not very mature or wise to that effect I said for all I/we know you COULD be.......... How else are you gonna pay for an online transaction - credit card or paypal linked credit card unless banking has changed you need to be 18+ yes you could do a bank transaction if under 18 and working etc... I guess but normally.. most online transactions are using plastic or paypal which would normally require you to be 18 which you are not So I seriously suggest you calm the f*ck down a bit and not throw your dummy out the pram... that is a figure of speech btw I'm not saying you are still in nappies it was just a figure of speech about tantrums but feel free to pm me if you wish but I was offering assistance info and quoting facts about guidelines we all have to abide by

can't buy PARTS for a TOY GUN but I can buy all sorts of $hit like certain knifes or blades that may not be for domestic use ???? Ebay gets more n more w@nked everyday

Jeez you really didn't even glance at requirements before you spent on your parent's paypal/credit card... 3 games - same site in 2 month period is normal requirements often you might as well say 3 games in 3 months in general if you was 17.75yrs old you could of done your 3 games and your 18th birthday you get ukara'd (as well as lit up on your birthday) Refund & wait is answer Or if you can't wait - get your parents to buy from Zero One and they paint for free if you don't wanna pay for 2-tone That is the best advice I can give especially as you are not 18 just yet No offense (or defense - lol) No offense - but you could be some 11yr old got in from school @ 3:45pm and got email saying you got prove ukara etc....

Here's the thing if you have done your research..... The RIF has normally gotta be delivered to the ukara'd persons address that is held on database so your gun will very very likely have to go some other guy's house Evike ??? or some Euro retailer ??? Evike want to send you email demanding paintjob money before shipping gun others also may not send it in case it is siezed n destroyed best thing is obtain refund and wait a couple of months when you are 18 and ukara'd

PAY FOR 2-TONE stop asking to bend the rules anyone who assists is a bigger Call yoU Next Tuesday than a person not doing their research first

Run DMC - It's like that - original or J Nevins mix (dunno but often when things are up n down it pops in my thick head) Black Betty - wow for yonks it had to be followed by Radar Love (Golden Earring) but I'm showing my age - lol, but played them to death in my bashed up Cortina

Welcome sir, we are all still learning Well I know I am

Fair enough though if you are looking for sniper secondary for use like spray n retreat kinda thing then this would be one of the rare times I would suggest the G&G Fire Hawk HC05 DSG. Crap for CQB coz no semi but then as a sniper you ain't gonna be doing CQB so worth a look perhaps when considering Ares ??? Anyway I'm done on this It is up to you sir what you decide

Mp5k is popular too

It is supposed to be a backup or secondary.... £30 - £27 if 10% still works That gun n mag is like £15 from TWG bit of gas - use propane If mag or gun plays up chuck n buy a new one at those prices Still to each their own, how much and big is baby M4 gonna cost ya

Bit of tape card etc.... Some cages are tight/loosed than others Best thing is use aluminium tape as it is heat resistant to stop motor turning in cage I presume you mean the motor moves or tries to rotate Bit it needs a bit of play for adjustment height That is what I would recommend

It is all a learning game and due to all boxes being different - work will always be needed I have sourced some genuine quality sorbo - so it said, better be didn't specify the degree of hardness but said genuine sorbo at a possible easy to fit measurements hopefully of the right amount of thickness to use in most instances a "sorbo" sandwich I guess - not all sorbo as that is perhaps too squishy but a mix with neo on top anyway - I find out when they arrive When the AOE came apart on me - the stock pad on head just fell off whilst testing a v3 I thought wtf ??? but the neo's were there it was crappy yellowy glue used to stick stock pad to head I researched wtf I use to glue it all back and found the superglue but ensure any glue or brand contains that cyan thingymajig Other heads like SHS have seemed very good fitting so far, it was a cheap v3 head that worked well but the stock pad was pi$$ poorly glued Lesson learned again and now I do a quick light peel test on head first - the remaining crappy blue heads were removed, cleaned and reglued (they just came off without a fuss or any bits of rubber left on there - really crap glue was used on there) I could remove and reglue stock pads on SHS etc... but they may tear in removing and some pads are bigger/fatter than my 20mm neo's so I peel test now and decide from there.... This n that n check this n that may all sound like a lot of messing about when we work on boxes.... But if you want a box to run better very often it isn't just money buying good quality parts You have gotta check n check n check everything is as absolutely good as you can really get it and even the ultra high end gearbox is only ever gonna be as good as its weakest part/area poxy boxes

First thing Neoprene is NOT as effective as Sobothane !!!! Sobothane is not as cheap To do anything properly will involve a bit more time & money Often the perfect solution will be a mix of both with neo protecting sorbo as it is a bit too squishy to be solely used When doing AOE - every box is different - some might need 2mm correcting others might need 5 or 6mm correction - one or two may need next to nothing Ultimate silent piston/cylinder head needed next to nothing - well due to the size/shape I couldn't fit one really but a smidge was required of about 1mm-ish. In this case I trimmed a neo washer (trimmed coz it does compress) trmmed the washer - aprox 2.5mm off the washer all way round - now 15mm diameter mount behind piston head and tightened piston & piston head - it squished a bit but dropped AOE back 1mm for better AOE On other boxes normally 3 to 4mm is the norm. how this is performed is going down to user The neo washers do work out a very cheap & easy method to correct this BUT not as squishy or impact absorbing as Sorbothene. Now Sorbo sheet can be purchased and cut/shaped/drilled but that is if you wish to do all that yourself Airlabs sorbo pad will cost you about £9 on its own and "may" still need a little work like most stuff Sorbothene is not as cheap as Neoprene but it does offer better impact and no doubt will prolong the gearbox against cracking But Neoprene pad won't be worse than stock and imho will offer a bit more protection than running stock like before I still stand by the easy to apply neo washers as a no frills easy to apply cheapo method but have ordered up some sorbothane to make up a "proper" sorbo pad but it wasn't cheap n cheerful price (compared to neoprene - but then the best don't come cheap) Will it be worth it - dunno yet but it is the proper way to do it will my gearbox with neo just break off - ergh I really don't think so as it its still a bit better than stock Will I personally rip open previous boxes - nope lets see how bare neoprene boxes shatter (if I re-do them I'll never know I guess) All I will do is use a sorbo/neo combo mix in my next overhaul or if one of the old neo boxes needs attention I will perhaps re-do the pad but I ain't gonna rip open a box just yet. Suppose the ultimate test once finding the correct or best mix of sorbo/neo is to do do 2 brittle plastic gearboxes and put then on 11.1v and see how quickly they shake & shatter themselves to bits (yes sorbo is the favourite but how by how much will it beat the simple neoprene) One final thing - often on correcting AOE you may get a small void or outer ring space if using say 20mm sorbo/neo pads Often thought this void is a wasted space of air than isn't expelled as piston hits home this void can be filled quite nicely with an old knackered piston o-ring and does a nice job too (sort of helping to seal head better with an additional o-ring too) To affix the old piston o-ring into the void around the pads you will need some super glue depending on what you have to hand in case you do not have Loctite Super Glue..... No to No More Nails or any other stuff - uhmmm got this Wonder or Ultra Glue tube will that do ??? look at the back and check what is in there..... cyanoacrylate - yup that is what you want It fuses rubber - when I say fuses I mean it don't just stick like a sticky tape or label does it REALLY binds them together so much you will not be able to pull them apart easily without it breaking to bits (ok you can soak them in hot soapy water but you get the idea of what I mean by fuses them together) The neo is a cheap easy to aplly solution - not the ultimate & best solution but many seek an easy improvement but like everything if you want the best you need to pay and often put in the time fitting stuff correctly too if anybody is paranoid will my box break in two..... I'm not rushing out re-doing my previous boxes just yet I am gonna wait until next service and see how a proper sorbo/neo pad works in comparison in the mean time Until I have done more tests though I will ease up on my own recommendations I'm still learning and do appreciate any input that helps all of our stuff run better

its 7.2v old skool he has probably got in there - a lipo could be worth looking at 7.4v lipo or 8,4v - not 9.6v ffs Yeah I noticed his guns were mainly plinkers but they might be fine to do plinking with and I don't wanna be too harsh on OP coz I made same mistakes like many at first yes I thought could of got a nice starter ?&? M4 - trying to reduce my usual same ol' same ol' replies but if all he is doing is plinking then they are probably ok to mess about with though if OP was gonna get into it more he really should look at going up a level

2 words sir..... BIN IT soz if that sounds harsh but it won't last - won't last very long if you increase voltage too much it has a plastic - brittle plastic gearbox and youtube is full of them self destructing on 11.1v lipo's so stick to 7.2v or 8.4v - or 7.4v lipo but that is it the stock will probably have a phillips screw - remove back of stock probably bast to slide the poor 416 style crane stock back and latch it further then it will slide off completely down that tube will be a phillips screw to tighten the stock tube back on refit once tightened etc.... that is presuming you got the crane 416 stock on that bulldog (some 805's which that is rebadged have a fixed stock on them) btw I bought that gun - its ok for plinking but wouldn't spend too much money n time on it

as ya in uk & 2-tone....... cheap green gas non blowback pistol: http://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/hg-104-m92f-beretta-hfc-hg-104-m92-gas-pistol.html#.VXSekVKeYQk 10% discount off with RC10 perhaps add extra mag as it is a reduced price bottle of gas and just go with that instead

you "could" try 2 x stick or thin block batteries in parallel ??? 2 x 1500mah 25c - cut and join 2 positives together then join 2 negatives together 3000mah 25c battery - still 25c you don't get a 50c burst - its still 25c but bigger capacity This is not as perfect as a dedicated 3000mah lipo but if range/size options is a problem then it is a possible consideration as you might source a battery for each crane/nunchuk "tube" then link up 2 x 1000mah or 1300mah to make a better lasting capacity perhaps (same battery types work best obviously if possible) reckon this could be a starting point: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=44772 now one twin stick could fit down one tube..... so you could fit these down each tube = 2 x 1200 = 2400mah 25c if linked in parallel or just fit two batteries in stock and might be able to quickly swap over from one 1200 to other when gun slows down should last you the morning - lunchtime replace - rinse and repeat etc...... but reckon if that battery don't fit in there then get another stock

c'mon - don't give up the ghost just yet.... http://www.greekairsoft.gr/manuals/manual.asp?Manufacturer=CYMA&Filename=Cyma+Glock+18C+CM030+Manual.pdf pdf - page 6 or 6 is exploded diagram - maybe that might help to perform some sort of fix or bodge for mag and might show semi/auto selector possibles - jeez what ya got to lose if gun is boned as it currently stands

agree on that - the sometimes bit though might be more of when somebody has played for a while and then replaces their starter guns & starter loadout with better high end quality stuff That is just my take on it as I have only got my ukara a year ago so maybe next time I may look at the better stuff to replace my own cheapo bits n bobs. Not knocking anybody's stuff especially if been playing for a number of years and replaced or worked their way up Actually who the hell am I to judge - which I'm not btw if people wanna treat themselves to good quality stuff first time around - its their money it was merely my own personal take on it and soz if OP wishes to buy a quality bit of kit instead of cheapo starter stuff

cheapo FAST type helmet works ok for me http://www.taiwangun.com/en/fast-helmet-replica-black-8fields?from=listing&campaign-id=21 (actually my son nicked that & I'm stuck with even cheaper pith "star wars" helmet) soz it ain't in UK but ya get the idea of a cheapo one will do especially for first lid perhaps some of the more expensive ones have clicky adjuster inside - but all do same sort of job tbh - wtf is gonna really notice or care ???

Naaahhhh - I've given up hiding them guns now from her Now I just hide the missus - lot easier

kind of - but in general I talk 99.999% pure bollox but I do mess with them a bit too much (mainly coz I'm $hit at airsoft - but if I get out more I might improve and become just crap at airsoft)

The strange thing is us male species always want crap that is bigger better faster and much more bad a$$........ Even before many people are paying for their first gun they have already gone nutz looking for what "UPGRADES" they can/should get make a gun fire faster quicker longer range etc...... (then go skirmishing at a cqb site - jeeeez) How good your gun is - it isn't measured just by how it performs compared to that £500 gunthat guy has it is measured by how much fun or enjoyment you have with - yes a decent-ish gun helps but £50 or £500 it is still a toy gun that is the bare bones of it you can make almost any gun better if you chuck money and time at it - just like many things or buy a slightly better gun - but then betcha you will look at upgrades for that better gun - jeeez Improve & perform better....... - what the gun or the person using it ? A good player can still kick ar$e with almost any gun, often good awareness, tactics, stealth, player skill etc... have next to f*ck all to do with the gun when you think about it yes a good gun helps - but a half decent out of box does ok - its the player sometimes that needs the upgrades not always the gun This not aimed at OP or anybody with higher end guns but think it is more the owner/buyer or if you like all of us that feel we MUST get our guns upgraded almost straight away - we don't, often just use it for a while and get on with it if it breaks or you feel it ain't as good as you expected or perform properly - then look at upgrade to better gun or getting gun tweaked/upgraded etc..... I admit I need to stop pi$$balling about with guns and actually get out there more and friggin' use them - I will own up to that one

dunno wtf it is but gotta likey the colour scheme