Sitting Duck

yes it is nice to get it right first time - but even better to persevere when things don't go according to plan hopefully learning from mistakes is how we acquire wisdom or Launching the f*cking thing down the garden - yeah come very very close to that (actually on different projects I have just lost it now n then over the years) We are all still learning - I know I am

1 RPS increase: don't sound much but demonstrates how much small tamiya is choking the flow of juice (ooh ergh missus get them juices flowing) on a gun a bit more beefed up small tamiya is holding ya back even more so (being yanks it is maybe running on higher juice to begin with but all the same stock gun stock wiring....) 11.1v 12c - 12c ???? that is a bit lame 20c to 30c is a decent punch burst rating, maybe as gun is not fetted he might be going easy all the same when running neodym motors and thicker wires drawing more juice a mosfet is highly highly recommended In actual fact there isn't such a massive expense as people make out if you look around.... Basic B3 chargers are no worse or no slower than some of the basic £12 nimah chargers you can pick up china ones for about £3 to £5 and need a 11-18v 1.0a psu nicked from old router/modem (though tbh don't bother getting these lame lipo chargers get mains B3 or a B6 type) Better mains B3 are about £10 to £12 - bit better, some crappy clones out there to be careful if buying on fleabay (B3's still only charge through the small balance leads so are slower but quite foolproof usually so easy to just pick up & use) Then there are B6 type and B6 AC - the first B6 needs a psu 11 to 18v but min 3.0a to 5.0a psu - possible laptop psu ?? Clone B6's start about £12 upwards but advise going to get genuine B6 charger tbh not much more from hobbyking uk/eu I have clones but have tested it and only slightly slightly undercharges but a lot quicker than a B3 type lipo charger (a bit of manual reading is a good idea - can charge all sorts of stuff and adjust loads of settings - yeah good idea to have a read first) Batteries - lipo's have the edge and are in general no more expensive - reckon cheaper than what Zero One and others would charge ya for a nimah battery....... Only exception if your gun likes running on about 9.6v - inbetween 7.4v & 11.1v lipo yes there is LiFe @ 9.9v but tbh the range is quite limited and imho the LiFe's don't offer the same raw grunt as LiPo's So in my mind LiFe's are not really all that I first thought they would be.... A neo motor on 7.4v or if a slow motor use 11.1v (mosfet is very good idea on higher juice) When you make the jump you will see for yourself I reckon eventually nimah's tend to lose their ability to hold charge as they get old - more than lipo I'd say Lipo's you don't let then run down too low 3.0v or damage to cell will occur.... 7.4v - you will deffo know when she is getting low on juice @ 6.0v 11.1v - hmmm not so easy on 3 x 3.0v = 9v but end of day get alarm or know ya gun and change lipo at lunchtime the cells go up to 4.2v = 8.4v on a 7.4v - danger @ 6.0v or 12.6v on 11.1v lipo - danger @ 9.0v don't pop holes in lipo or they explode - burst into flames but just common sense stuff really nimah's can be run right down without damage but often they lose their ability to hold charge for very long or 1 out of 7 or 8 cells craps out and it just refuses to charge properly well that is what I have found on some of my nimah's Disclaimer - though I say you "can" use other psu's for these lipo chargers.... It goes without saying you need to have a tiny bit of common sense, a test meter AND know how to use these items if you can't check/confirm voltage and polarity etc... then buy a proper psu for ya charger or buy the AC versions I am not responsible if you blow $hit up coz ya too stupid to do a few checks first not rocket science - just common f*cking sense chaps

Guarder SP's are reported to be 30fps more than other makes of springs http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/43-longrange-aegs/6447-list-springs-vs-fps-output.html SHS's are more expected output spring but Guarder ones have been know to be a bit out on the rating as for % rating - nah I give up on those ans stick with shs or do a test comparison with a aps uar quick change aeg now also to add even more stuff - irregular springs - tight coils at one end of spring... if fitted incorrectly give out lower than expected results oh yeah piece of cake this expected fps guessing malarky

How much do I spend per month - if I ain't telling the wife I ain't telling you (truth is I really don't know coz it really does vary £25 to £250+ if I see stuff and she hits the roof (again)) 3 reasons - gave up coz " fun " just wasn't on there don't care for ultra serious side or mega realistic or what not - just playing with toy guns I like the look of (until they break - boo hoo but its just a toy gun ffs) I just mess about and the way I play so badly - nobody takes me seriously anyway bit american survey in dollars n education but if ya from US & really wanna know what us Limey's think then I'd be glad to kind of convert stuff though £ to $ rate is a bit low atm

Might be a quick change spring which would be a right touch tbh

Short answer - you would need to spend £150+ to get a CM16 to perform like a Krytac (wait for the well maybe just £75 or Trigger saying £375....) Seriously for one second - you buy £150 gun spend £150 more and it is still a f*cking Combat Machine Don't get me wrong - they are good starter guns and a few tweaks improve but takes time n money If you want a better gun then it will cost more, like cars & loads of things If you want a BMW, Audi, Merc, Lexus and can run to it - get one Don't buy a run of the mill Ford Focus and spend money trying to make it something it isn't (said run of the mill but yes there is better models like ST RS Cosworth & all the other boy racer stuff etc...) No offense to Fiesta or any car owners but trying to put it perspective - that' all First gun if money is tight G&G to say £150 - £200 - no more tbh The Krytac is built better, shoots better, mosfet, better motor - just better gun but just coz you got a better gun don't mean you are a better player Krytac owners now lynch me........ it is a tough choice - me I think if you now got ukara you will be buying more than just one gun ya G&G will do fine for a while - heck you may go down AK or G36 or M14 or MP5/G3 route could get a G&G and if you think sod this you will be able to sell it on or if you really want a decent gun like krytac then go for it - think you can sell on anything decent just they are different ends so you have to decide just how far you go buying your first gun (there is still loads of other stuff you can buy with change or just get a gun you wished for) hope this crap helps a bit - but your decision and your money in the end In the meantime I'll probably get hunted down by Krytac owners driving Fiesta's or G&G owners driving a Lexus

just another thought...... if piston was full metal rack you could short stroke it a couple of teeth this is only for sad speed freaks tbh - remove 2 teeth & AoE corrected might do the job (can't reall short stroke full cylinder guns like ak's but medium length barrel guns can be SS carefully bit by bit) but tbh get a m100 spring is probably quickest & easiest all round solution rather that cut off teeth n crap (I screwed up first time around so I don't advise this - get a lower spring - job done (hopefully)) another thought - what gun ??? reason I ask is that some guns SRC JG plus a few others have that horrible 10mm alloy spring retainer clip in piston (bloody heavy things too) that mofo will add on a bit to spring compression - a piston tooth is 3mm so that could be like compressing spring 3 more teeth than a bare piston In reality I'd say over half of pistons have a bearing/spacer of about 5mm inside G&G's have a 5mm plastic spacer in them - same extra compression as a piston bearing but lighter and less prone to coming undone (loctite threadlock is best but if you forget you will learn the hard way after a few thousand rounds) If it has that funny alloy spring retainer spacer clip thingy bollox - then the spring will be hooked into the piston and may need to strip piston head off to get the sod out - chuck it then with no spacer in piston m105 me thinks should be fine and not over AoE should be done and if down a bit add bearing spring guide Alas this crap I'm suggesting is at very best just a guess - until you open her up you won't have much of a clue what is in there could be a m110 hooked onto piston with alloy spring thingy could be a very short gun with m120 TaiwanGun / Gunfire ??? m100 to m105 and perhaps bearing spring guide if needed after AoE

As Trigger said - very difficult to call Springs vary from manufacture for a start - often springs can be a bit over their rating length of barrel can increase fps - joule creep on longer barrels plus tbb can knock it up a bit further a mp5k 110/140mm barrel will probably have m110 to equal a 363mm on m100 plus some longer barrels like AK's 455mm to R85's with 510mm+ may have a m90 to equal an aprox 340fps - ish The " ish " factor comes into play even more variables even if all guns mentioned have 101% seals and compression..... An ultra light piston Vs heavier piston "may" increase fps very slightly from piston returning a bit faster in theory But more so if AoE is corrected then 10fps drop aprox will take place if bearing spring guide used and/or piston bearing bearing used - each of those factors can add on 15fps aprox So you can see one mp5k with m100 could hit near 300 not 328fps and another gun AK47 with bearing spring & piston spacer could hit 365fps say on the exact same spring Sounds bollox but these examples I and others have witnessed the results so it is at best a calculated guess based upon previous builds even then if all is perfectly sealed you get some wtf's ??? You say cqb - so gonna guess aprox 275-300 barrel - ish (do love an ish) so my guess shs m100 to Element m105 max if correcting AoE if still down add bearing spring guide for 15 fps more aprox That is my rough workings out so far - still not 101% accurate due to loads of variables like I mentioned Hope this helps - but don't sue me if I am way out

ask my first psx I tried to chip, what a mess using a massive 30w red hot screwdriver tip crap solder that was probably meant for plumber's to solder pipes, no flux and wire that was way to thick and burnt back kynar, decent soldering iron, flux - piece of pi$$ As to gearboxes - proper planning of the wires and layout makes life easy or not so easy like many things - learning by our mistakes (still making them now and then so with that I'm still learning with every ball I drop though hopefully not so many - fingers crossed) Always say a lot of stuff is like MFI or IKEA furniture - first one takes hours, second one hour by the time you put together the 4th cabinet - 25mins I'm a pro (no you are too tight to buy quality furniture pre-built)

To be absolutely honest - there isn't much in it.... Sometimes Taiwangun do better deals Gunfire when they have offers on it becomes oooh I gotta get that coz its a really stupid bargain not to In my mind - when you get stuff at a crazy price you have to consider the odd time things may require a bit of work though free spring downgrade is good if you don't feel confident Some stuff is really good, some is alright Some parts - some are better than others a few parts from TWG were supposed to a certain brand but as they repack a lot of bits into bags for transport sometimes - maybe once or twice I wondered if they really were what they said they was in description.... Most of the stuff is very good, a few things I'd never buy again but can't grumble at daft price I paid for some bits Guns overall have been amazing but they don't do cheap G&G's - my G&G's all came from UK retailers But think they will accept stuff back if it is really shagged but me I normaly break or rip stuff open with 15mins of it arriving anyway Both TWG & GF are both good sites imho, GF are bigger of course with any place you need to do a smidge of research before getting carried away This is what places like AF-UK & Google are for Happy Shooting

2 so far.... 1 chewed up wires in v2 box by motor pinion (lesson learnt, carefully route wires better now) 1 home made 3034 just blew up - f*ck knows but obvious short somewhere mega heatshrink now So far not had a 3rd but what with the juice that goes through them - I don't take things for granted now. One thing I have learnt you really can't rush cut corners thinking that will be OK on anything inside the box I now take a hell of a lot longer putting stuff together

SHS Torque should do it you are not fully compressing the m170 btw shoot ak2m4 a msg and see if he has any

FaceBook banning sales me thinks and probably people realising that there is more to life than FB I've just stubbed my toe so I'll upload a pic soon I can't decide on this or that pouches so I'll have to post a pic and see what my friends think best Oh wait I have no friends - ahhh bollox then

My wife would say I got enough guns already

Please not a R85.... well whatever - they are much cheaper than UK

indoor cqb sites often get developed so most sites are outdoor/woodland I would say indoor - cammo don't quite work unless you are dressed as concrete blocks or red bricks though dark clothing for dim or shadow areas - anything else is what you feel comfortable in first game - jeans - trainer boots at a push but some boots or something with ankle supprt full face mask if its up close stuff and either a wooly hat or something on ya head to avoid any scrapes if you have some ol' knee pads from skateboarding/cycling bring them as often ya knees can take pounding on hard floors eyepro is a must but if renting site will supply stuff - good boots & optional hat knee pads sweatshirt or hoodie will do - especially if its a bit chilly a chilled out attitude and less ego - call ya hits and don't get too stressed if people sometime don't always call the hits you think you got with (I say think as often just coz you are aiming their way don't mean you have deffo got them - unless you see the bb hit 'em but still chill a bit) try to play fair, observe the marshal & site rules, don't worry if you fail to get an awesome k/d bollox - just have fun

Think the short Raider is "maybe" a tad too short and tbh I'm not a great fan of longer M4's at 350mm or over barrels 275-300mm is what I think a good nice size all rounder but this is more looks and personal preference I guess Though some say around 230-270 bb's start to stabilise and all that in barrel - but wtf I'm going by my choice of looks Now if you decide to change out barrel hop etc.. and have a small suppresor on there you could select a 250-275mm tbb that shouldn't be affected by volume of cylinder too much and should help improve upon things though you should get a better hop I feel otherwise you may be fitting new wiper blades on a cracked windscreen maybe I would go down the hop & maybe barrel bit first - you fps should creep up a little as well as improved bb flight Like I said I have had a SRC shooting 355fps but no way would it outrange a 300fps TM gun a little bit fps really means f*ck all accuracy wise just as high rof means f*ck all if you are that $hit at playing like me yes G&G green buckings are pretty good but could be a bit out of whack/bad fitting/moved a bit remove hop/barrel - look to see when you wind on hop the nub/ridge is quite centered quite common the ridge is lopped sided = shooting left/right (try gently twisting barrel a smidge - a real slight smidge to get the ridge centered) a H nub you could try or some buckings like shs have a groove to help bb sit more center in barrel a couple of buckings at least should be tried coz ya old bucking could be worn/shot/torn That is where you should spend a bit of time - honest stop thinking about shopping for bits that may not do much if your hop/bucking/barrel is still $hit

if its a std G&G red motor..... ANYTHING - a dildo motor has more grunt in it (so I'm told) some stock motors are a bit better than others like ICS ones seem a bit quicker than G&G stock ferrites but don't buy one - get shs torque if buying new

what model cm16 ??? Long 357 or short 230 barrel barrel lengths and the cm16 range varies greatly so for anybody to even "guess" the spring will be a bit stab in the dark tbh normally Element m105 to shs m110 on shorter barrels AoE drops fps by about 10-15fps but bearing spring guide pulls you back by adding 15fps aprox piston head is $hit seal - never got a great seal with stock G&G piston head myself nozzle shs red m4 but might be a whisker too long for some guns/boxes (it is not as easy as it looks at first - there's loads of stuff to check when upgrading/servicing the box) Long barrel m105 short barrel m110 that is my guess but depending on gun it will only be a rough guess until chrono and depends greatly on seals everywhere If it is still down you can add a bearing spring guide as I said heck if you wanted just pop in a bearing spring guide as is to boost 15fps but without more work AoE etc... I wouldn't go mental on the juice or change motor it really is a question how far you wish to go and fps means little if shooting a bit crap - no spring will change that - it is hop/bucking/barrel as said before tbb may up your fps by 10 or so anyway

(bet you don't waffle as much as me though ) This guys knows how to talk the talk and deffo can walk the walk as both tech and player Samurai's wisdom and experience is way more than mine will ever be..... Think we have all learnt - well think many of us are all still learning, but hopefully stopped learning the hard way a bit

http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/ What I will say you must or highly suggest you should do: bushings - not bearings - they will just collapse under stress unless you want to pay £30 ceramics and even then under gears bushings still best AoE - sorbothane+neoprene mix shs blue full metal rack piston - their other mixture pistons are not for high speed (do not take the extreme pi$$ though with full metal rack - yes plastic/metal is wise but long term durability full metal rack is best imho) deans + rewire with a MOSFET - think most people squeezing max speed/rof/response - whatever crap you wanna call it - many will be using this stuff anyway o-ring nozzle but ensure it is exactly the same length or stay on original if unsure - a smidge too long and feed trouble, too short loss of fps/seal (so if fitting an o-ring nozzle too short and lose fps you may as well stick with stock nozzle) delay clip most likely will help neodym motor - say shs torque is a good choice pulling stuff with a good increase over stock motors but there will come a point where speed becomes a problem and more work and more problems occur as you go on.... lame stock guns fire 13 to 15rps out of box aprox...... now you can get these near 20 by using 11.1v lipo but mosfet is wise consideration over time or powerful motor eg: shs torque neodym - but will get starved a bit on stock small tamiya - so deans BUT do not combine neodym motor & 11.1v straight away - yes you will be getting high twenties but risk smashing f*ck out of box Pre Engagement will take place as you get near 30rps on a stock gun with a stock m100 spring I'll end repeating myself over and over again...... I would suggest - sticking on stock gears tbh - why coz you wanna learn to crawl/walk before you try to run/sprint You can still hit a decent rof, your motor won't struggle and need a stronger one straight away You fit a mosfet/rewire/deans etc.... now you can run 11.1v if seeking more speed Look - think/decide just how fast you wanna go but most on here stick to twenty's as we have learnt: Twenty's is plenty & it will last and nearly all mags - even crappy cheap high caps will feed fine When you try to run 30+ lots of trouble and increased wear & failure tends to take place Also good players do not need to overkill and hose people down - yes response n stuff is great but it is the player's awareness & response not the gun's rof that usually wins the game

101% agree with hop/bucking see how that goes first barrel - hmmm perhaps but most stuff is down to bucking/nub really 317 is nothing to worry about - TM's are often 300 so worry when you dip below that - you are fine atm Maybe in 6 months or so then she might have dropped and by then you can decide your next internal options/service Bronzey bushings may be wearing a bit by then AoE new spring nozzle and maybe piston head etc..... but still this is 6 months off and even 349.9999fps won't matter a toss really if shooting a bit iffy try also different bb's - makes and weight up to .25 if shooting further range targets cqb - 0.20's will be fine unless something is really out of whack (yes you can use .25's in cqb of course - the weight is optional but decent bb's over $hit/so-so bb's any day) For what it is worth - think 9 out of 10 owners are always thinking their guns could be a bit better (in my case, me personally could be shooting a lot better too)

Couldn't resist buying a £20 silly costume - which is nothing compared to the "normal" stuff My biggest regret was leaving a torch and the £10 duck call quacky lanyard at home I wanted to go quack each time instead of HIT or just run around driving everybody nuts running out of breath going quack quack quack up n down the stairs etc.... (f*ck me brought the kitchen sink and about half a dozen guns n supplies - how the heck I forgot such an important accessory ?) Not wearing it to woodland - in case that red neck billy bob farmer shoots me with a real gun - I'm daft but not stupid Guys, next time have the option of fancy dress - either Reservoir Dogs / Matrix suited n booted or Rocky Horror Show if you into that stuff (not me - keep laddering them stockings) Seriously - or rather not so seriously to be exact, if we do this once or twice a year then we could make a change from usual soldier stuff But yeah it was fun - sorry if I didn't chat to all of ya, I've probably forgot some people's faces but will never forget the great laugh we all had for those that didn't go.... imagine this bell-end with full face & running with a quacky FireHawk

11.1v lipo read all of this: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/29958-new-member-g-g-cm16-predator-firing-issue/ get 2 x lipo's from component shop if keeping v3 stock or get stubby good idea for ETU from G&G but again just badly implemented should work with 7.4v in manual but it don't and cuts out or don't last long on lower juice 11.1v will be fine - it has the mosfet in there and with lame G&G motor & stock gearing it won't be too insane (aprox 20rps - so will feel much more snappy)

No - coz that lady kicked my geriatric ar$e making me feel both old and useless... Oh wait - I am old & useless Yeah - wtf, I like having a meet up at different sites and you ain't too far away either