BrightCandle

I maintain sites need a ROF limit just like they have energy limits, its just as important for safety.

Of the airsoft sights I have been reasonably happy with the G&P red dot for like £30. Its pretty clear and the dot is big but decent enough if a little too bright most of the time. Mine lasted about 1.5 years before the dial fell apart but its still otherwise trucking along and it uses very little battery that its been changed just once. However personally I have had no luck otherwise, I have a T1 that can't be zeroed and a holo that is really brown (Nuprol). My Bushnell 1-4x is excellent but their red dot designs are kind of so so, but I do recommend going low end real steel so you get that decent clear glass. Companies like Primary arms, Bushnell and Truglo are likely to get the job done well without costing a fortune but also not as cheap as the typical airsoft sold garbage.

If you want a really nice quality one go for something from code red headsets. They basically do something in all the possible options all the way up to bone conduction for about £150 and down to just a speaker with a ear piece. It will give you a good idea of what is available.

For all my fears of speed based on the specification when you get into the practical speed that the motor turns over inside this gun its achieving 13 rps! Its almost precisely the same as the ASG Ultimate U30000 before it and trigger response is basically identical. The blowback on this gun does make the motor have to work but I am impressed how much it hurts this motor. Well at least it is unlikely to rip my gearbox to shreds at that speed anyway.

I found (http://www.airsoftmadrid.com/foro/index.php?topic=74224.0) telling us its a Motorola plug. So any headset that has motorola compatibility should work with this radio. That will give you access to a lot of options.

An EBB IMO is mostly about the noise. Yes the bolt moves but its the noise that everyone notices, they are a lot louder and normally quite a distinctive tone depending on the model. I personally wouldn't to try modding this in, the two ways its done both make a gearbox quite custom and it would be extremely tricky to make this a reliable mechanism that lasts and that didn't just wreck the parts. Its plausible but its not something you can buy parts for. You really have a couple of options if the recoil is what you want, either a recoil gun like TM makes or for a much harder kick a gas blow back.

For about a year I have been using an ASG U30000 (so 30k rpm) torque motor in my Tar 21. It improved trigger response due to the way the blowback works on the Tar and delivered about 13 rounds per second or so, a realistic rate of fire which is about where I wanted at the time (and about the same as stock just snappier). Unfortunately I abused it on a event where it got very wet and clearly didn't dry that bit properly and it sat there wet. One of the motor contacts rusted off when I was doing some maintenance work. I took the gun apart and in the process found my piston moderately damaged, presumably from the higher torque of the upgrade motor (the piston and head also upgrades). The teeth damaged were mid way up the piston and I specifically bought a plastic piston so the gearbox had a place to fail so that wasn't too terrible but a little unexpected. So I bought a new piston for it as well as the motor. I also decided along with the motor and the piston replacement having played with the Krytac SQR to replace the slightly worn S&T gears with some moderate 16:1 again from Lonex. Nothing crazy but with the torque motor compared to stock it should increase the trigger response a little bit more and speed it up 10% or so, still in "realistic" rates of fire compare to steel. But I have miscalculated. The replacement motor is a Lonex A2 and it says on the packet its a 40k-45k motor. I wasn't expecting anything remotely that high so I am a tad concerned that the combination of the two parts could put me in 22 rps territory (45k/30k * 18/16 = 1.7x) and I am a bit concerned about cycling a gun of this design that fast, the piston directly hinges onto the block back metal block and pushes it back and its probably the reason the piston got shredded. Doing that at near twice the speed sounds like a recipe for pieces. But my Krytac SPR runs at 22 rps and its great, I am just concerned that S&T don't exactly make the best gearbox! Its also done 50k rounds at this point. I kind of need the gun repaired for the weekend, I have flaked on a friend because I broke the gun last weekend so I really want to get out this weekend. What are peoples thoughts on running it with the gears and motor? Should I just use the motor with the old S&T gears just to reduce the rate of fire a bit or am I better off with new solid ones? Not entire sure what to do with it at this point, I'll run it on a 7.4V lipo so lower voltage (the gun has no mosfet) but I am feeling the need to rewire a mosfet in at this point.

I lost the glasses inserts for my locusts and I contacted tactical kit to see if they would just add it to an import and they did, I got it about a month later. So my recommendation is ask tactical kit if they will add some green ones in their order to revision for you and you'll likely save a bit on the import at the cost of some time.

Fan in the top he must be talking about the Revision Desert Locusts with a turbofan and the additional thermal lens available for it.

Something like a Kong mosfet would allow you to program the gun for semi only and be a simple matter of plugging it in where the battery goes. Its not 100% because of course you could reprogram it mid game but it should pass chrono and semi tests and you understand the consequences of running full auto. But if I remember correctly German law (I have an airsoft friend who comes over here to play okto from German) he was saying the gun has to be physically modified so that it can't do full auto, a mosfet doesn't meet the letter of the law.

I am no longer under the mistaken illusion that petitions or peacefull protesting will in any way change the direction the European or UK government will take. It doesn't matter how many people march on the streets in protest its not going to stop them empowering themselves and disarming us. The system doesn't work and it probably never has.

The woolwich council basically asked them for a bribe? Its not the only evidence we have that the woolwich council is corrupt, but if this one is true then it might be the stray that breaks the camels back.

I use Enola Gaye burst grenades with wire pull. Thge burst grenades produce a lot of smoke quickly but they don't last very long so its all about speed rather than waiting for it to produce cover. Every grenade has been perfect, I can't fault them.

I bought a Code red bone conduction headset (the new cheaper one not the police force targeted one). My experience with it is that listening is excellent, its a fantastic experience to hear everything around you and the voice quality you get across it is better than a normal in ear monitor. However one of the problems I have with it is that sending seems mixed, sometimes its crystal clear and sometimes is garbled nonsense. I think part of the problem is pressure put on the bone conduction headset by my goggle straps and the mesh face mask, certainly when I test it without these factors I have never had an issue, but its not like I can go and skirmish without my eyepro on! I have been contemplating perhaps moving to a set of tactical glasses instead of my Locust goggles but I really do prefer the safety of full seal, I just don't have a good solution for getting the pressure off without replacing the goggles. So I can't really recommend them yet, I am not 100% certain the issue is this pressure although I think its likely, I just know I have problems on send that I don't have on receive sometimes but not always. I like the button it works well and I think in general I am happy with the quality of the product but its been a little hit and miss on send quality and I need to try a different setup to see if I can solve the problem I have with it.

Rather than protection the usual issue is big tits (I am not trying to be vulgar) getting in the way of what is equipment designed for men. A lot of women find they can't comfortably wear plate carriers or the usual chest rigs and prefer to get combat belts (which work better with hips). I have seen ladies playing with plastic armour on their upper body before and also those in basic camo tops like everyone else. Everyone is different.

You will not get glasses under the revisions, no chance. The RX insert is an option but I will warn you before you do it I find it was unusable for me. I learnt my lesson with the Bolle's and decided to go with polycarbonate anti fog coated lenses in my insert instead of the usual plastic. It didn't help. The insert is so close to my face that it touches my eyebrows, and the moisture from the my brows makes it onto the inserts directly and its an almost instant fog/distorted vision. I use contacts and its the only good solution for glasses wearers I know of, certainly for these goggles. They are expensive and despite being relatively happy I hesitated before I bought them as well. I am glad I did buy them, I haven't felt the need since to look for another solution beyond having a set of glasses for milsim games.

I had a similar problem when I started. I had a pair of Bolle Raiders that while sealing fully fogged really very fast and I sweat really impressively! I tried a variety of things and in the end decided I was just going to try the turbo fan solution. I looked into all the different options and I decided to go with the Revision Desert Locusts because they were lower profile than the ESS ones and the reliability of the others seemed to be quite questionable. I haven't been sorry. The noise isn't a problem in anywhere but in the Bunker in South london as the fan is quite quiet and people don't notice when stood next to you in the woodland. They are expensive but it stars to solve the fundamental problem of trapped hot humid air from your face and cooler air on the outside which is what causes the fogging, no magic spray can fix that fundamental problem yet its just physics. The Revisions also have an optional thermal lense solution that you will want to get and you will also want the Revision anti fog wipes. You can still overpower the fans ability to clear the goggles and the wipe will help bridge the gap and you'll use one for a game day. I am not saying the turbofan solution is 100% perfect, nothing can be but there isn't anything that handles it better and ensures no BBs or fragments make it to your eyes.

Suppressors don't slow the bullet velocity of real guns down and certainly it doesn't slow a BB down. Its one of those nonsence balancing mechanics from computer games that a lot of people seem to misunderstand and think it might be a real effect. It isn't.

The building has one door on the smaller side we can see, that is clearly the front. Some of the other builds in that estate with multiple entrances are also not very clear as to which door is actually the front of the building. Never really considered this problem, in all my years of Arma front/back/right/left has never been an issue.

Just doing my usual notice to inform you that you are breaking the law. The UV-5R isn't allowed to be used on the PR446 channels for a variety of reasons so unless you have explictly bought licences for those radios well then what you are currently doing is unlawful and your doing it with something that will be classed as a firearm which makes it doubly worse.

The ares has the best externals as its one piece sell lile the real gun. The s&t pro is in two pieces but it has both better internals and more stamdard internals than the ares. I chose the s&t pro and its been the most reliable gun i own. I have a detailed review in the reviews section you should read.

One of the big things for me was the iron sights. With the rental guns the iron sights block the path of the BB so you don't normally know for sure where your rounds are actually going. It could be perfectly zeroed or way off and you don't necessarily know. With a red dot sight you can see where they are landing and going and compensate for the wind or bad zero or whatever is pushing them off or hitting low etc. A red dot just gives you the below point of aim view you need to compensate. Of course a large part is just your basic mechanics of firing and aiming accurately, your positioning and everything else about game sense and play you don't know yet. But on my second game with my own gun, red dot and eye pro I did much better because I had increased visibility of the BBs path.

My gear changes dramatically in the winter. I change to fingered gloves. More waterproof boots. Thermal underlayer. Wear a jacket over my combat top which typically is full camo not UBACs (ECWCS II). Replace cap/boonie for a camo watch hat which is warmer. I also stop using a pistol and move to hi caps, sticking one in a pocket and the other in the gun so I don't have a chest rig/assault vest at all. If I do carry anything else its in my pockets but usually its just a spare mag. Not sure if I will do it the same way this year, I might try and get some fighting gear on this winter if possible but my priority last time was reducing my sweat rate with less gear and keeping warm.

In my experience the ATP is pretty accurate about the range you get with various power outputs. http://mackila.com/airsoft/ATP/ So the maximum and effective range you can't do a lot about they are dependent on the guns power, but in my experience you can improve the accuracy at the maximum ranges given the right parts and love.

Is your hop failing to hold consistently all day? Because if it is working you don't need to change it. There is certainly value in replacing the hop rubber and nub with an R hop and M nub, that will definitely improve the consistency of the hop. To improve accuracy other than hop its a fair bit about the barrel and a lot about the airseal consistency. Replacing or at least lapping the barrel with a decent one can help and you also want to fix the air compression, that is piston/piston head, cylinder head and nozzle. Learn how to test that seal in your gun and if its not great then go about fixing it. You can get your FPS variance down to about 1-2 fps above and below an average and if you do it will help the accuracy. If you want to improve trigger response get a torque motor and then 13:1 gears and go about it that way, gives decent trigger response and a fair rate of fire (probably around 18-25 rps). This will not however increase range or accuracy, only rate of fire and trigger response, power of the gun comes from the spring (and with airseal improvements).