BrightCandle

I want to go but I can't find out any real details about the itinerary. I need to book into a hotel for the events length and I don't know if I should be getting their for Friday morning or more like Friday evening (the first signs of any life being a night game). I did ask the question to the organisers but they have been kind enough not to respond at all.

I am seeing a worrying general trend where companies are choosing what is legal and what isn't. They longer consider themselves morally led by the countries wishes but instead are imposing their own set of morality. I am seeing a big battle between the public at large and corporations that decide what can be said and what can be bought/sold and delivered. Free speech/legal trade likely needs further defence, not from the government but from companies.

Glad I could help. Its a common break point hence why they sell them separately.

Do you mean the magazine lip? Its the part that sticks out of the top of the magazine and contains the first BB and where the nozzle picks up the BB. If so then this might be what you are looking for http://www.milspecsolutions.co.uk/we-p226-p228-magazine-feed-lips.html

The problem is that BBs come with a waxy coating and it hard cakes on the inside of the barrel. When tested the best mechanism for cleaning the barrel and that reduced the impact of the waxy coating was silicon oil. Its not like you leave the barrel dripping with the stuff, its dried off just like when you use anything else but it helps avoid the waxy coating adhering which stops it from trapping actual dirt on the barrel and getting crushed on the inside. Everytime we have this cleaning question a whole bundle of different ways come up and I think in all honestly it doesn't matter all that much. Given you are cleaning the barrel regularly enough to remove the garbage it likely doesn't matter but as far as I can tell silicon oil is what most techs recommend because of the tests done by hunterseeker5 on what causes the wax and dirt to adhere the most/least.

The first and only time I cared about KDR was my second game (my first game with a rental gun I couldn't tell if I was hitting at all). I counted every hit I thought I got. Now it doesn't matter to me, I care more about driving towards the objectives and goals of the team and moving and playing well in the way I enjoy.

As far as I know the decent barrels today are PDI, Prometheus and sometimes ZCI. There isn't a whole lot of praise for much else really, but the madbull barrel finish report suggest madbull is not too terrible either. If you barrel is actually straight then you may find lapping and polishing your existing barrel gets you a long way to getting a good clean finish on whatever you have.

Yes that is the right type of silicon.

The rifling is going to cause the BB to spin, so it will undo or interupt the hop process. The current theory is that BBs mostly travel along the top edge of a barrel due to the hop and this further increases their backspin until they leave the barrel. Any inconsistencies in there will obviously disrupt that hence why a perfectly flat and straight barrel is preferred. The only thing I can think this rifling will do is disrupt the hop and cause the BB to spin, dramatically reducing range.

The reason that silicon oil is recommended is that it leaves a very thin coating that reduces the BB residue buildup on the barrel. You should do a few clean passes with no silicon oil afterwards but its the current recommended way to clean your barrel by the expert techs out there, nothing else I knows of leaves a residue repelling residue. To begin with just shoot the gun, after a thousand rounds or so it'll need a clean because the gearbox will almost certainly shoot a tonne of garbage down your barrel and you'll need to clean it thoroughly.

My main point is that baofengs can end up both cheaper and better with about a 2 week delay on ofcom processing if you have enough of you to make that worthwhile, which by my accounts is pretty much anything above 2 people.

There are two legal routes to getting a radio for airsoft: 1) Go for a PMR (UHF), its limited to 0.5W (regularly wont go >50m in woodland!) and the basic channels. Radios are quite expensive, £40 ish at least. 2) Get a Simple business licence from ofcom which is £75 for 5 years. Allows the use of 5W (think 1km in woodland) across 10 channels (UHF and VHF). You can then buy £10 radios if you want (Baofeng 888) or spend a little more for better usability with the UV-5R (£20). Which works out cheaper for your group depends on how big you are. You will find groups with both types on sites, the PMR guys can't ever interface with the ofcom licence fellows but the ofcom licence guys can at least listen to the PMR channels but they can not transmit. I chose the baofeng licenced route as that is what the milsim communities mostly use as they are real radios with usable power whereas the PMRs are kind of underpowered, sometimes you can shout to someone and the radio can't pick it up!

Epsom bunker had my left hand little finger fractured from a hit onto the joint (darn fingerless gloves!). Had a scary moment in Bunker51 where a super heavy BB hit my mesh mask flicked up onto the underside of the goggles and pushed through the rubber over my nose and tapped me in the eye (full seal isn't a complete defence apparently but I wasn't hurt). I had a shot in Total Warfare that came down from on high and hit me square in the goggle pane at the centre. The lens bent so much that it produced a pressure wave that made me think it might have penetrated and certainly felt the impact in my eye but without any damage.

Epsom Bunker is an abandoned nuclear bunker. A lot of airsoft sites are based on derelict or unprofitable land right now. There aren't enough players nor is it popular enough to have high quality purpose made sites.

I bought the Viper multicam boots. A lot of reviews said they were pretty comfortable and I found that they have been very comfortable, they are pretty flexible for a boot. My main issue with them is actually to do with the external material, being made of suede and nylon the dirt really sticks to it and is hard to clean off. So while they look pretty nice new they wont stay that way. I didn't personally think I got much helpful advice when I asked and its very hard to buy shoes online and very hard to find military boots in a store near you.

As far as I know reenactment is a suitable defence under the VCRA and hence it should be sufficient to buy a RIF, which you could then use for airsofting. UKARA is the default and I suspect most websites will want you to prove you are an airsofter with UKARA because its easier, but legally I think you are right. Feels like its going against the spirit of the law however, its purpose was to enable people with a need to buy RIFs for their purpose, using one purpose to buy a different type of RIF is not really what the law makers intended.

Based on the tests for diameter and weight I have seen no manufacturers can claim even remotely +- 0.01 on their BBs, they aren't even close to that sort of tolerance. Its the same garbage as the whole tight bore barrel measurements where really its all about how straight it is and how well its finished, the genuine thickness of the bore in this very small amounts doesn't have an impact. With BBs its all about weight and bubble consistency. My own experience is that I don't notice any real difference in game between blasters and devils in any of the guns I have. I have seen a difference on paper at 10m with aimed shots, and it might be worth the difference of a 2cm v a 2.5cm group but that isn't actually all that much. I have been using Nuprol 0.30g BBs recently and they have been OK but the devils are definitely better quality even at that weight. My advice 3 months ago was that you need to find BBs that work well in your gun because each one appears to like different ammo, my KWA pistol likes ASG 0.25g BBs my tar 21 likes Devil 0.30g and my G&G T4-18 likes G&G PBSP 0.25g BBs. They all perform better with different weights and different ammo manufacturers so really I think you just have to try a few different things and see how they feed and how they perform before you know what your gun will tolerate and works best with.

I have tried lens inserts, they were all a disaster for fogging. Full seal can be bad on its own but I got prescription inserts made for my bolle Raiders (awful) and for my Desert Locusts with a fan, neither was even remotely usable. The ones in the locust I even had made specially with anti fog coating and out of polycarbonate and they were still dreadful. I just don't think having tried it with 2 completely different solutions its viable.

If your brother has a slender set of glasses then they may fit under something like the Nuprol goggles. A friend of mine played using that for 2 days and while not super comfortable it did work. I can't recommend trying to seal in glasses in full seal goggles, you'll fog within seconds and in my experience its unusable.

I might not show it but everytime someone on my team screams "call your hits" I am wishing the marshals scoop them up and ban them. I was fighting next to one of these tits for a bit on Sunday and after he started calling that I just backed off and found somewhere else to fight the enemy. My tolerance for that sort of behaviour is really wearing thin.

I don't personally find I have an issue with people not calling hits. Now I have a scope with 4x on it I get to see where my BBs are landing and most of the time I am missing, its either just falling short or the spread at maximum range is a bit too wide due to the wind or whatever that just forces them to miss. Just occasionally you do hit someone centre mass and they don't call it and I strongly suspect that is the gear. I don't think I have actually met a "cheater", all of them have been accidental due to plate carriers and such. When your moving you just don't hear BB strikes, it doesn't take much movement to obscure the noise of an impact and its the main reason I don't like wearing anything on my chest. I don't find at the sites I play at that hit taking is an issue, what I find is that where there is an issue is usually just too much gear and noise.

PDI do make really good barrels, expensive but decent. However Hunterseeker5 has been saying that they are still far from perfectly smooth, while they make them straight they still seem to lack the polish finish you need for the best accuracy. So along with the barrel I would recommend getting a hunterseeker armouries lap kit as well (air lab) and that can be used to smooth up the surface to a mirror finish.

So what about a basic 9V battery? Well according wikipedia the basic alkaline ones are 565mah. So 0.565A. That puts it for one fan at roughly 0.565 / 0.08 = 7 hours. With the reduced voltage and hence spin speed of the fan you may see more like 7 * 1.61 = 11 hours. 3 fans off one battery? more like 3.5hours.

Most fans will start at about 50% of their rated voltage they just run slower. On PCs I have used this fact for years to reduce 1300 rpm fans down to the 800 rpm range (nearly inaudible) with fan controls or basic voltage division to 7V from their usual 12V rating. Fans typically come in 12V but Evercool appear to also do 5V ones as well. It is quite easy to work out the run time of a battery. Most batteries come with a size in Amp Hours (or milli amp hours) and if we know how many amps the fan consumes we can work out how many hours it runs. So looking at the 18650 they look to be 2500mah. We also need the spec sheet for the fan which I believe is this one: http://www.evercool.com.tw/categories/global/fan/imges/3010.pdf. The fan consumes 0.08A at 12V (at a lower voltage it will decrease the spin speed and usually power consumption as well). 2500 mah = 2.5A hours Fan is 0.08A 2.5 / 0.8 = 31.25 hours But we aren't going to run it at 12V, we are likely going to run it at 7.4V with 2 batteries. So its probably 12 / 7.4 = 1.62 times longer, so 50 hours per battery. But then if you intend to run 3 batteries off of these you would only get 17 hours out of it.

Amps = size in Amps * C Rating 1300mah = 1.3A So 1.3 * 20 = 26A A Combat machine isn't likely to be coming with a particular torque or powerful motor so I doubt it'll make much difference to have a small battery in there. This is just the trade off of using the buffer tube or a small battery stock.