BrightCandle

I have had nothing but issues getting replacement parts of my We pistol, been waiting 2+ months for a replacement hop unit (which will presumably also be total garbage). Anyhow I suspect Ed might have replaced his inner barrel on his We Glcok 17. Check out the bullet4Myenemy youtube channel and specifically his glock 17 review. He might mention an inner barrel replacement in it, I can't remember if he did or didn't replace it but I have a vague recollection he did so he will likely say the brand and such there.

A second hand combat machine is about all that will fit that budget, and I wont sell mine that low delivered but maybe someone will.

You have different grease needs for different things. You need gear grease for the metal to metal contact between the gears. That should ideally be quite a thick grease. Then you have the bear oil which is a lot thinner due to the way bearings roll past each other. Then you have a thicker silicon for the plastic to metal contact such as the runners for the piston to the gear box. Then you have the thin silicon grease for sealing such as the nozzle and inside the cylinder for the piston head. Using the wrong one in the wrong place could increase the wear on the parts.

Its not an amendment to the VCRA, its the commencement order of the VCRA. It is the part that added airsoft skirmishing as a defence and it also lays out what the retailers scheme is likely to look like (what became UKARA).

Current polls at least suggest no party that is directly intending to destroy our wonderful sport is likely to get a majority so on that front I am hopefully. I do feel like to some extent though the ban will come at some point. Not because it has to or that it would even help with violent crime but that in the end the idea that people enjoy shooting other people with air guns is against too many peoples idea of fun and its easy to ban things that too few people actually positively support. I think we will survive another 5 years at this point, at least its looking hopeful.

Oh look and advert that does what it needed to, tell me I shouldn't ever go there. I wont even click on the link, not a single brand of gun I would actually buy.

I am not convinced so far you can increase range per say. You can improve the groupings at distance if there is an issue with a gun, by fixing airseal (piston head, cylinder head, nozzle assuming one part of this is subpar) and then ensuring the hop unit is as consistent as possible. But actually increase the range, I think the physics of the situation are against you as its more a factor of FPS. Given a hop unit that can lift the BB and make it lift and a reasonable airseal you will get as good as you can. My Tar 21 had a terrible airseal and the end result was awful accuracy. I fixed that (and the struggling stock motor) and the end result was better. Then I changed the bucking to a G&G green and that improved things again, but the hop unit/bucking couldn't lift above a 0.25g BB. So started an upgrade to the R hop, which I haven't honestly finished doing yet, its taken quite a bit of trial and error and I'll spend all of this Saturday in Billericay just messing with it rather than playing. It can lift a 0.30 and ATP says that is worth a few extra metres over 0.25g. So having tried a lot of these fixes I can definitely say: - If the airseal is rubbish then fixing it helps accuracy. That is about it. I have improved range I can usefully engage by increasing accuracy but its not like I am suddenly popping heads at 40m, its not that good even after a tonne of upgrades.

Its really unlikely you'll have any problems with a lipo, the chargers deal with the special issues of the battery. In the end being able to charge them without discharge and them having no memory and higher power density and much higher current is what makes them significantly better technology. But you do need to make sure they don't get punctured, keep them dry and check to make sure they don't bulge or puff out. Lithium is very reactive and it can catch fire with air or water. We have been using these types of batteries in laptops and phones everywhere so its not like they are just exploding all the time, it takes an accident to make it happen. Airsoft uses unprotected cells (no plastic casing to protect) so they are a little more vulnerable but then I doubt it would be good if your nimh was punctured either. So in theory they can explode, catch fire and wreck loads of havoc, they also happen to be in everything and it doesn't happen.

At least the rubbish BB guns are cheap. When you buy an expensive gun and the basics don't work or it breaks really quickly (like the VFC 417 for example that has a fatal design flaw in its tripper and tappet plate, or an Ares Tar 21 keeps dropping magazines because the mag release doesn't work properly) then its a lot more problematic. At least with a cheap BB gun your £30 out of pocket not £300+. When its a design flaw the manufacturer can keep providing parts all they like but its not going to fix the issue. I honestly don't know what the worst gun is but Ares I am very wary of as well as VFC (after seeing a friend go through some suffering with a 417).

Definitely no good for R hops, the window is too small and its not very good with the flat nub. They are supposedly very good hop units but I can't say I have ever had the opportunity. Have been considering one for the 416 so do let me know how you get on with it.

High voltage batteries is mostly about trigger response not ROF. I personally want to hit 750-850 rpm but I want that trigger to break and fire rapidly and allow me to keep firing on semi as quickly as I can. That is what 11.1 is about and why it was important to me and why it was pretty annoying to get a note in the gun saying it couldn't handle it despite what G&G had done by install a mosfet.

My first pistol was a We P228. I had all the usual problems with it, the magazines were high maintaince and liked to leak, the paint was constantly stipping, the metal was pretty bad quality and ultimately my hop unit snapped. My hop also didn't work and the accuracy was pretty terrible. We pistols are cheap, they kick hard but not known for their accuracy or their quality. TM on the other hand are well known their accuracy and build quality. They keep working and rarely ever fail. But the slide is plastic and the end result is the guns don't look all that realistic and they don't have much kick to them. When I was looking for a replacement for my We I looked seriously at TM, but I just did not want to loose that realism factor. In the end I selected a gun that has reviewed remarkably well, a KWA ATP. Its basically a glock 17with a slightly different slide and the reasons for that are complicated legal issues in the USA. Neitherless KWA make high quality guns, and this particular one has got a reputation for being insanely accurately. Having played with it today and gotten 7 awesome shots in a row and having tested it on paper at 10m I can tell you this gun is amazingly accurate and long range, the hop works wonderfully. KWA don't do many models of gun, but they are the most gas efficient ones out there, getting two or more full loads to a magazine verses the 1-1.5 of the others, thus saving quite a bit on gas costs. They still kick pretty well with a metal slide, they are really well built and in my opinion its really the best option out there right now. You wont really regret a TM pistol purchase, it'll just work and work as it ought to from the outset, but a KWA is likely to do the same and add the grin factor which I feel is lacking with the TMs.

Hunterseeker 5 (an american tech responsible for R hop and quite a few other innovations) has a test showing different cleaning materials verses BB residue and dirt. The end result of his testing is that silicon oil stops the BB residue build up the best and hence is the right material for the job. Yes you get a few inconsistent hopped rounds but the payoff in rejecting BB residue pays all day in accuracy.

Compared to the average skirmish I suspect the following key elements change the gameplay quite significantly: - Command, control and contact. Combination of a commander, fireteam leaders and the organisation that comes with it combined with radios. - Matching camouflage, no coloured armbands and reasonable accurate loadouts with limited ammunition. - Objectives throughout the day but with no arbitrary limits. If the commander wants to put defence 50m out from the point he can and should be able to, the only rules are those that apply globally rather than individually to any one particular scenario. Its this flexibility that leads to force multiplier tactics being possible (like ambushes or flanking attacks when defending). The highly scripted elements are a choice but I don't feel they are required. Given a bundle of objectives across the game zone teams can and would organise their own attacks and raids and go about doing particular missions of their own based on what mattered to them based on supplies and other aspects of those objectives. I suspect the scripted gameplay works to drive the day on a little better and I suspect a mix of elements likely works best (so players feel in control of what they do without making it just a battlefield domination game). But I don't think scripted is really a core to milsim, its more that the objectives themselves can be realistically handled. I feel that needs an example. Today we played a fallback game, 1 life in each of 3 locations, a section ends once the attacking team gets its hands on its objective. This is obviously a highly scripted aspect of gameplay forcing falling back and particular key objectives, but rules like defenders can't go outside this area restrict the tactics that can be used and dying and having to walk to the next place (and the attackers having to wait for the defenders to get ready) are all highly unrealistic. Its relatively simple to work out how to do this type of gameplay scenario in a milsim way, by and large its "defend these 3 points, first one allows access to second because of XXX and then second gets access to third because XXX". It doesn't require anything more, the falling back and how attacks are coordinated are all in the mission briefing and how it has to play out. Vehicles and other elements are nice gravy but I don't think they make it milsim, indeed some sites use it despite not really hitting the more important milsim aspects. So my personal expectation is actually its mostly about those 3 elements, CCC, allowed loadouts and the way the rules work.

I finally got out to play with the r hop today. Its still pulling high and its also now got a left pull as well. But with 0.28g it's usable. I was outranging people, maybe as much as 10 metres but I didn't find it to be more accurate or particularly longer range. So since I have okto coming up I will remove the r hop, install a basic bucking again. There is some hope it might be a little better from what I saw today but it's taking a lot of trial and error to get it working right. Really I need to get out in a field with a reasonable workbench so I can tweak it, but without such access I am struggling to get it working right. Its not just do and play like the z kit suggests.

Here is a tip, most reviews are done in the first hours of ownership. I didn't notice issues until my first skirmish. More than that the grand majority of gun reviews are utter garbage, they don't tell you about serious design concerns because of the way the reviews are funded, ergo most reviews you will see on youtube are basically corruptly funded via seller advertising or by very inexperienced people. I have had the gun nearly a year, I have faced off against other people and watched my gun be severely outclassed, I have bought other guns, messed with internals and done all the things you ought to do before you say a thing about the gun. So yes I could have got a bad one, but then that just says you might get a bad one too, because all that says is that their QA process isn't very robust. A few of us have been discussing the issues with the gen 3 guns and we are coming to the conclusion they seem to have taken a step backwards in quality compared to their predecessor gen 2. The mosfets are garbage and while all the boxes are ticked the quality of the individual parts isn't quite G&G standard. I think what we are finding is just one too many corners were cut on the gen 3 guns and its just resulting in more variance in quality. I am certainly not the only person with early failures and issues with these gen 3 guns, mine has been probably the worst. I am not saying don't buy the gun, I can give you a list of things you need to do to make an S&T tar 21 shoot well too. What I am saying is it didn't meet my expectations at the price point and it certainly didn't meet expectations of performance. I have a CM16 with my two tone gun and it out shoots the T4-18 unfortunately. You aren't ever going to see a no faults review from me unless I have no faults, and so far everything I bought has had something I didn't like. This is one of the bigger purchases I do regret, doing it over I would have bought a G&P M4, I have a friend and his outshoots my M4 in every way 100% stock and has zero issues in a year. A lot of people are a lot less fussy than me is the take away and I think that explains the positive reviews. If I was going to do a gun review it would look a lot more like what Bullet4MyEnemy did (years of experience on it, what issues, what broke, what was replaced etc etc) than most of the reviews where gun is delivered, person goes over features, shoots it 10metres for 10 rounds and tells you its awesome, you wont ever catch me doing that.

I haven't been very impressed with my G&G T4-18, the short list is: - The charging handle fell apart. Then the replacement charging handle fell apart. I ended up making a pin for it out of a nail with a dremel and some locktight. - The accuracy was downright awful out of the box, far worse than my CM16. - Gun air seal seems to be sub par, as does the barrel finish and hop behaviour. All of this seems to play on accuracy. - The G&G magazine that comes in the box is a little inconsistent on feeding when firing full auto. - It does not work with G&G midcaps, they don't feed properly. Those G&G midcaps don't feed in any of my or my friends guns. G&G mags = garbage in my experience, hi cap and mid caps and you get a hi cap in the box. - Its really front heavy just based on the way its designed, I didn't feed it very comfortable to hold with the weight distribution as it is. - Paint spray and finish was a bit rubbish, plenty of bits were missed on the rails. - Had to grind down the spine in the mag well so it could fit M4 type magazines. Its not compatible without doing this work (buy it from proairsoft they do that for you). - FPS has steadily dropped since getting it, started at 325, its now 295 and I really need to look into what is dragging it down next weekend, its a bit of a problem. So all in all I haven't had much luck with the gun. I have never really had it firing well and accurate the whole time I have owned it, I started replacing parts last year and I have more to do but the base gun in my experience isn't skirmish able.

Hopefully you received an unjamming rod, that will have an end for attaching cleaning cloth which you can run down the barrel and clean off the residue. A lot of guns out of the factory spurt greese into the inner barrel in the first 100 rounds so its a good idea to clean it all off and get the barrel dry again. A little thin silicon on kitchen paper with an unjamming rod is all it needs, then dry paper another 3 times to clean off the silicon. I also have a routine for cleaning all the stuff, clothes, combat gear, guns etc, but the AEG rarely gets more than a wipe because it doesn't need anything doing.

AEGs don't honestly need a lot of maintenance on a game to game basis. Cleaning the outside of gunk and especially drying it out if it got wet is about the most of what needs doing. But its worth knowing that BBs leave residue in the inner barrel and its a good idea to clean that regularly, every game I feel is a bit more than necessary but its a regular maintenance thing.

Crane stocks require the 2-3 legged batteries, its just the shape of the area for the battery.If the CM16 is rear wired (mine is front wired) then stock/crane stock batteries are your only option. Hobbyking do sell chargers and batteries and you may find some cheaper there, just be aware the only ones of use to you will be the crane stock ones and all those are under the airsoft section for batteries. I would recommend a lipo not nimh, the nimh may very well be cheaper (as is the charger) but the lipo is much higher capacity for the same space and weight and easier to charge (no memory).

Ultimate Gearbox w/full Lonex internals - Gearbox should be good but Lonex don't make the best internals. Best of breed would probably be siegetek gears, ultimate cylinder/piston head/cylinder head/piston + mosfet micro switch trigger. G&G Standard metal hopup - They are fine but the prowin is a much better hop up unit. Would also be nice if the barrel/hop was R hopped. Unknown barrel make... - Most barrels are actually pretty rubbish in terms of straightness and finish. PDI or prometheus are decent, everything else is what you get until you get those. So unlikely its best of available. GFC M4 Reciever body - No idea, its metal its got the right markings but no idea the quality of the metal. Not even sure what the best would be as it tends to be what you get with the base gun as they are all a little different. TM motor - Best of breed here would be either something like a torque motor again from say ASG their U35000, or a high speed motor and associated gearbox. So basically none of the so called upgrades is really top of the market competitive. With all the best bits it would be more than £400 however (it would be £90 on the barrel and another £80 on the motor and £100's on the gearbox).

Doesn't really scream high end to me either. It sounds OK but its certainly not best of breed in many aspects. I certainly wouldn't pay £400 for it.

I bought a TRMR last summer, and I lost it in the woods. The second TRMR I had hasn't seen much use. I used it a fair bit in the school and in Bunker 51 but since I haven't been to either of late I haven't found much use for it outside. Its worth noting that impact grenades are basically useless in the mall, they are all but banned. Most sites have quite a lot of concerns around these big heavy BFGs and rightly so, it hurts quite a bit when they hit you and someone lobbed it at you. So actually out in the woods I have mostly used smoke grenades, not really even mk5's. In the mall I didn't end up using anything because the BFG was worthless and I let off about 10 rounds between the school and the mall. IMO getting one depends very much on what type of game you play. I started mostly with CQB and indoors and the BFG was more use there (the mall being a notable exception where it needs to be timed not impact).But in woodland I don't even bother taking it, you can't use them or throw them far enough to make it worthwhile.

Every airsoft player at some point (normally early on) is faced with a choice, learn tech or not. If you don't then you will be paying others for upgrades and repairs but you also wont be spending your weekend digging through parts of your gun on the kitchen table. If you do decide to do your own teching then get a chronograph, make sure you have somewhere and something you can shoot it without wrecking your house and prepare for it to take a bit of time to get into. Once you know what you are doing you can change an M4 spring in 30 minutes, your first time will probably take 4 hours. Over a year ago I started doing my own tech, its been something I have had to do relatively frequently as I introduced various upgrade parts and fixed underlying accuracy issues but in the end I now have a gun that is more accurate than most. Looks like your not sure about the decision, I would just say be aware its going to cost you more than the spring to do this work, because you need a chronograph to verify the change. Depending on how much work you intend to do it may or may not be cheaper in the long term.

The extra speed is worth metres, maybe 10 metres. I haven't upgraded my T4-18 as I was trying to maintain the warranty but honestly mine needs a lot of work to its air seal and barrel to be accurate which I have been avoiding doing all winter.