BrightCandle

I am looking for a radio. Now what I want is something that is PMR 446 legal so I can use it and talk to my team mates, but also can do 5W to a defined frequency if the site has a licence for something particular. Can such a radio even exist or do they always need to be two different radios? The PMR law suggests that they can't possibly be the same radio but I wanted to make sure that was the case.

Those G&G ones are rubbish. They are the exact ones I bought for my gun and they don't feed well at all. I can't get them to work in anyones gun, I can not urge people to avoid these more strongly.

I love the woodland games its more my thing than the CQB sites. Less on action but a bit more sneaky and long range. Anyhow in and around london these are the CQB sites I have attended: - Bunker 51 - Small, high action, Saturday evening only. Not great IMO but some people love it. - The school - Near Watford its got a bit of out doors in the playground and then 3 floors. Really good fun. - The Mall - Reading, a shopping centre and a really really well run site.

I have been using those MAG ones and have found them to be great. I only get about 120 rounds into them but they feed perfectly in all my guns.

I emailed them a week ago about getting a replacement hop chamber for a We P228, never got a response at all. Have no idea what I am doing wrong but clearly its not always great service from them.

My gun came with a warning saying I couldn't use anything above 8.4V nimh and 7.4 V LIPO or it would void the warranty. Basically the same gun, a T4-18.

Agree needs reporting, they can investigate it.

Presumably you don't have UKARA since you are not a skirmisher. Did you provide some other defence as defined under the VCRA or did the MOD just sell them to you without any check that they were allowed to sell them to you?

If I bought a rifle every time I got the chills I would be a very poor man. Airsoft has already parted me with quite enough money and yet more every month. I personally try to buy guns only for roles, that is I have a CQB gun and a woodland gun (different spring powers) and I'll likely add a bolt action in there as well at some point. Not sure about DMRs, my favourite site right now has them at 365 fps verses 350 of the AEGs, that doesn't seem worth it to loose full auto, but then other sites are around 420 fps for DMRs. That difference in power and site limits I feel is a good reason to get a particular gun because swapping springs between games is a real pain with some guns. So I feel its good for meeting site rules for particular roles - like support or marksman or sniper. I don't always buy sensibly myself of course as the Tar 21 will suggest, very much a heart buy after falling in love with the real thing in the USA and now I live with the little more effortupgrading it to be great is costing me. But next gun is probably a DMR and probably a sensible one.

Wow a troll post, surprise! Attack the maths and talk about the topic of the thread. This isn't the topic and your own ignorance or belief that its cool to act ignorant is not the topic and hasn't been since the beginning. So yeah I posted that its not cool to go offtopic in that way and what it makes you look like, you have two options really, complain about it or get on topic. I have a big post on topic, you have posted a lot and said nothing.

Ammo - Use the heaviest BB that your hop will lift properly. At and around 350 fps that is probably going to be 0.25g or maybe 0.28g. The heavier you go the more accurate its going to be and the less the wind will impact it. However Snipers regularly have issues on windy days with their 0.43g BBs drifting off metres away from the target with the gusts. That is just the nature of the sport, its better on days without lots of wind. Batteries - The battery shouldn't be going off that quickly, lithium batteries do degrade but its usually with 350 discharges or so it will halve its capacity. You could consider a lipo 7.4V, it'll have a lower rate of fire and maybe a slower trigger response but there are a lot of choices on sizes which might help. Regardless if the battery is small you'll probably need a couple for a day of skirmishing. I go with a very basic estimate of a 1 mah = 1 shot. So a bottle of BBs is 3000 and so that represents a battery change for me since I use 2600 mah lipos. If you are on the little 800mah ones then it might very well only go 1-2 heavy fire games. Moving on - No doubt the M4's dominate in extra parts. You wont have trouble getting upgrades for a G36 or an AK for example both are very popular. Looks like the Sig uses Type 3 gearboxs and those are very popular so you won't have any issues getting the parts for the internals of those either. As I understand it the Sigs can come with different types of hope chamber but depending on who you buy it from you may very well find everything is nice and standard. There aren't really that many guns that don't have at least some upgrade potential. The M4 is the better upgrade platform IMO since its so well documented and there really are a wide set of parts, but don't worry about that with other popular guns it'll be fine. If you were upgrading a Tar 21 or a Famas then we would be having a different discussion about compatibility of parts!

A timed grenade with multiple detonations would be quite interesting. You could throw it into a room, kill a load, have some run and surive and return and then die 15 seconds later when the second shot goes off. That would surprise them! Its not very realistic however.

Lets assume that there is a magic ratio of air volume for the barrel verses the cylinder, that is the current theory that if we maintain this ratio then we get the best performance. We can define that ratio as follows: MagicRatio = VolumeOfBarrel / VolumeOfCylinder I make a 453mm 6.05mm barrel volume of 16580.93mm^2 I make the volume of a non ported cylinder as 8111.17mm^2 Making the ideal ratio 16580.93 / 8111.17 = 2.044 The volume of cylinder is radius ^ 2 * length. Lets assume a 6.05mm barrel for simplicities sake and a variable length we get VolumeOfBarrel= 36.6025 * BarrelLength The VolumeOfCylinder uses the same equation for the volume of a cylinder. A full length cylinder has 58.75mm of usable length but this varies with the port but its inner radius is going to be 11.75mm (not a bore up). So we get 138.0625 * LengthOfCylinder If we substitute those into the equation: MagicRatio = 36.6025 * BarrelLength / 138.0625 * CylinderLength The MagicRatio we know from the considered optimal setup so we can use that to eliminate the term: 2.044 = 36.6025 * BarrelLength / 138.0625 * CylinderLength Now we need to rearrange it a bit 138.0625 * CylinderLength * 2.044 = 36.6025 * BarrelLength 282.19975 * CylinderLength = 36.6025 * BarrelLength And divide by 36.6025 7.71 * CylinderLength = BarrelLength BarrelLength = 7.71 * CylinderLength So your equation is off a little bit, but it may all depend on cylinder volume estimates and the thus the magic ratio. Still 10x is only about 25% off of the actual magic value I derive from the underlying volumes and in this case we can see the volumes of each is linearly scaled with each other, so we don't technically need to use R^2 in the end so long as we can fix both the inner barrel radius and cylinder radius. The later is basically fixed and the differences in volume from a 6.01mm inner barrel and 6.08mm is just 2.3% so its a small factor we can ignore. A 6.23 is actually quite a difference, more like 7.4% but its still a relatively small error when we consider we have to choose between 293mm and 353mm barrels which has a much larger difference. (PS nothing cool about not knowing how to read the above derivation, its the sort of thing any 16 old that isn't failing maths can do, which is the majority of them. If you can't follow it you should consider a trip back to school not trolling me. It only reflects badly on you that you read this. There is a serious ignorance culture in the UK around mathematics and that concerns me greatly considering how much our economy and businesses depend on it. This isn't rocket science, I would know. The above however could still be wrong, I make mistakes like any human)

As I understand it from Hunterseeker5 on airsoft mechanics (you need to register but its a really good forum) the current theory with R hop is that because the spin is done over a longer period of time with less intervention the BB will spin around its geometric mass centre and wont wobble as it flies, the result of which is less air resistance and further flight path. Its also suggested that the BB is more likely to be spinning completely vertically which will extend the range compared to a slightly off centre spin from a bucking. The spin speed of the BB is the same as it leaves the barrel between R hop and normal bucking, but that isn't really what R hop is fixing. While I think 75m is unlikely it does appear to be true that R hop (and G hop less) produce a BB that flies further and more accurately.

Somewhere close by that you can get to with the gun yourself. Most shops provide a repair and tech service and even the sites themselves provide repair techs. I would start with a close shop or a site with a tech, one of the two will take the project on.

The FPS limit on under 18s effectively removes the advantage of using a bolt action completely, the result of which is to dissuading teenagers from playing using high FPS longer range bolt actions. If you are still wanting to play the role it can be done but only at a massive disadvantage. It is as simple as fitting a lower powered M110 spring and potentially cutting it a bit. But I wouldn't personally do it because single shot 30m single shots with bolt reloads is going to find it hard to compete with full auto fire.

I would say it gave me about the same effect. I am not convinced by this whole "it goes further" argument, that seems like garbage to me, but it does improve accuracy.

This is one of the main points about Mosfets, its meant to make using 11.1 Lipos possible without damaging the trigger contacts. Yeah there are some other benefits of mosfets but this is the big one that most people go for, so if we are limiting the guns to 7.4s or Nimh's because the mosfets can't handle something all the aftermarket ones do then its not doing its job properly and it needs replacing.

I did this to my G&G T4-18 with a prometheus purple bucking patch and the same for the sealing bucking. Worked better than a basic hop marginally. Wasn't super impressed myself.

I g hopped my G&G T4-18 and it improved the spread a little bit but it was not all that impressive, you aren't suddenly going to be hitting an ear at 30 metres that I can tell. The same can be said for the PDI barrel added, it didn't make much of a difference at all. Both individually did help and the end result is more accurate than the gun came stock but I don't think it was worth the outlay, especially the barrel. Then I changed the airseal of my S&T Tar 21 professional (cylinder head, piston head, piston, nozzle) and it made a sizeable difference to the guns basic accuracy. It definitely still has hop issues I can see that but airseal was a large part of the problem I had before and fixing it made a notable difference and I out shoot a lot of people now where I couldn't before. I am considering an R hop for it, mainly because it removes the need for the hop to apply the pressure and since the hop chamber is custom to the gun and plastic and not very good then an R hop seems like a good idea. Right now it can't spin a 0.28g BB and while 0.25g is what most people use a heavier one drifts less in the wind and is more accurate and consistent. So improving the hop should help on basic accuracy and past the flat trajectory part of the range. My own perrsonal feelings so far on my limited testing is that my gun is basically accurate enough at usable maximum range, the projectiles run out of power and drop off and before that point I can hit half a torso with about 5 rounds. I would like that to be 1 round, but I doubt that is realistically possible. The question really is how consistent can the gun be near its maximum range and can a set of upgrades and tweaks really get the system to the point where you can get it down to 1-2 rounds at flat trajectory range and my assumption is that you can. But an R hop can't possibly extend the range, all it can do is improve the accuracy up until the projectile hits the ground, or alterantively it overhops them to get that extra range but its much harder to hit with. R hops aren't about extra range really, given the same hop setting (flat trajectory then drop off) what they might give you is more consistency in the hop resulting in a tighter grouping at the maximum range. So if your current guns spread at maximum range is too large too be accurate then maybe an R hop and some other upgrades focussing on particular problems in the gun will bring that spread down to make maximum range usable. But its not physically going to extend the range, at 350 fps its always going to be about 30 metres of flat trajectory and a fall off of 1.5m (height of a person) at 50 metres. Whether you can use either of these numbers depends on consistency. Right now I feel 30-35m is usable on my gun, 50m isn't because they are all over the place and my hope is R hop might help with that. Take a look at the ATP, as reference this is a link to the 350 fps page which is where these numbers come from and they match what I personally see out in the woods: http://mackila.com/airsoft/ATP/07-b-07.htm

Presumably you don't also have to comply with a minimum engagement range because you don't have the range to get past it. Unfortunately everyone else will be able to engage at your ranges as well but they have full auto fire. Its going to be quite a disadvantage. I assume the gun you have will work at that low FPS, but I don't know for certain that it will. The parts are designed for 400-500 fps more than they are 350, and indeed I had problems taking a gun down to 300 fps in the past when it was designed for 350. All you can do is try with the spring suggested above.

The G&G air nozzles do have an O-ring but they tend to be plastic. You could upgrade to a metal SHS one for example but if its sealing fine as is then there isn't a lot of point changing it. The key thing to do is next time is test your airseal.All you need to do is push the piston into the cylinder with your finger over the nozzle and if it just stops then your air seal is fine, otherwise fixing it can bring improvements in accuracy. Cylinder head, piston head and nozzle are the components of that. Motor is a weird one, that not wanting to go in could be a sign that the gears aren't quite in right and the motor isn't finding it easy to get into the gearbox. Never personally had any real issues with fire selectors, leave it in single shot and it just pops in and out of its slot.

If you intended to use 0.25g BBs and they chronoed gas guns with 0.30's then you potentially come out as having a hot gun due to joule creep despite the fact that actually you would be within all day due to your ammo choice. You aren't wrong, it would penalise people who chose to use ammo below the maximum weight the gun could actually push effectively, they would have to use the same weight as the site chronoed with or set it up such that it was within with the heavier weight and then take a hit on the lighter ammo and be well below the limit. Its not really a good solution either.

Are there still places available? The tickets link on facebook is just going to an empty page for me. I don't know if something is broken or if the second tranche of sales is already done. Would like to join the MDF if there is still a slot available but I can't get facebook to show me ticket details at all so really no idea.

The challenge for the sites is that some of them really want to ensure that the weight you say really is the weight that is fired. Combine that with the fact that all sites around me use a 0.20g defined limit (328 fps or 350 fps for automatic guns) and you have the recipe for problems we see. An unscrupulous person trying to get more range and accuracy can use the sites own system of testing with 0.20g BBs against them. All they need to is fit their gas gun with a tight barrel and get that nice over volume effect and then turn up and let the site use its own ammo (which lots do), or use 0.20g BBs for the chrono and bingo they are in with a massively hot gun when they put 0.28g's in there. From the players perspective taking account of the effect and setting your gun for the appropriate muzzle energy is important, but we there is a wider problem of ensuring guns are safe before a match starts and this more than just testing with 0.20g BBs even if that is the standard. Sites need to be pretty confident the gun is tested with the actual BBs that will be run for the game and I don't really see any other way to go about it. I don't think a site can ensure this safety, a player can always test with one BB and use another in game and utilise an amount of joule creep, because the alternative is to lock the BBs they intend to use in a box and have them reload from it and only it. I don't think many gas gunners are going to want to be searched just to check they aren't using different BBs either! Having had my finger broken before by a BB (well above power presumably) I tend to not trust other players and have a preference for sites that do a decent chrono test. But none of them is catching the joule creep issue because they are either just trusting a player when he says its a 0.28g BB in there or alternatively using their own 0.20g BBs. I don't know what the fix is, presumably testing gas guns with 0.28g BBs from the site, but then if the owner is really intending to use 0.25g BBs and has it set to the limit for those he is going to get turned away. Its not easy to fix the situation so I can see why sites might just choose to ban these guns that have this effect. I personally think they also ought to test for rate of fire as well. I saw a polarstar last Saturday that was putting out a frightening rate of fire and I was glad he was on my team because it was a complete laser beam of BBs. This is also a safety issue as multiple strikes in the same place also cause a lot more damage as well, and the intention of all these limits is to avoid penetration of the skin. You get hit with a polarstar firing at 50 rps all in the same place and it could dig a hole in your arm, both from joule creep and ridiculous rate of fire. That is every bit as dangerous as the over power from a gas gun. I think the only thing stopping these things being real incidents is that most players dress up pretty well to defend against the strikes and we don't see many gas or polarstar guns on the fields and those that do take the safety seriously. I genuinely believe that most of us really don't want to have the potential of hurting others so we pay due care and attention to this after tweaking our guns. But I don't think its currently practical for a site to ensure safety with gas guns, testing with 0.20g BBs isn't sufficient and testing with 0.28g BBs isn't fair if the intention is to use less. So it remains mostly in the gas gun owners hands to ensure they aren't utilising this to get an unfair and dangerous advantage.