BrightCandle

Go to the Mall or the School both are great CQB sites (I personally prefer the School, I thought the games were better as was the general layout). Bunker 51 is pretty terrible and you can read my review in the reviews section, I have been there about 8 times or so and I know it all too well.

Feed perfectly in all my guns. So far I have had 2 out of the box of 8 jam up and need cleaning out but the Sandpit will do that to a magazine. They are plastic, they don't have a follower so you get what you pay for but they are robust enough and they feed 0.28G BBs just as well as 0.20g and all in all I have been surprisingly impressed with them since they were recommended to me last summer.

Based on scouts and other camping out events with young adults and teenagers, there are legal requirements that assigned guardians must meet for looking after a group with minors. I doubt many milsim events want to take on those sorts of requirements considering they are mostly targeted at adults. It might be possible to meet those requirements and potentially insurance if one of the OPs legal guardians attended as well, but the insurance might not cover it even then.

Revision Desert Locusts have a model with a fan which is what I use.

Build up the gear gradually. Talk to people onsite about what they have, what they tried and you'll soon build up a profile of the things to do and the things to avoid and why. People on site are always more than happy to tell you about their gear choices and its one of the best places to see what can be bought and get an idea of what stuff is kind of rubbish or caused problems. Early on one of the first things I bought was a sling, because my arms were killing me after carrying a heavy gun around all day. Bought a single point sling and it worked great in the CQB site I was playing at. Then I moved into woodland and big area combat in general and suddenly the sling was killing my back. Its hard to walk with a low hanging single point sling, so now I have moved to a two point to one point adjustable sling. Its that sort of advice you'll get in little snippets and so rather than buying it all at once do it in snippets as and when you need it want it/can afford it. It'll save you money in the end.

In the average game I can rarely hear it myself let alone people a metre away or two. I have to put it to my ear when I turn it on to confirm it is actually running because the safe zone is almost always too loud. Out in the woods on my own I can hear it whirring away, but nobody has ever remarked on hearing the fan even when being next to me, they seem surprised its there and running at full speed. But in Epsom bunker you could hear a single BB roll across the floor, in there it sounds like a helicopter is coming down the corridor. Its really quiet, just not silent. I thought it would give me away sometimes but I don't think it actually has done so once yet.

A fan! I tried a variety of things but I just sweat too much for basic anti fog to work for me. I tried quite a few things including washing up liquid and it all ends up the same, the goggles don't fog initially but the water builds up and then I get a layer of water on the inside and I can't see very well. The fan in the desert locusts really helps, doesn't eliminate it but it helps a lot.

None of my lower mesh masks even remotely fit my Desert locusts. I doubt they fit under any set of goggles properly honestly, the nose is just too wide and the eye areas too shallow for anything but the smaller swimming like goggles, and those it usually leaves areas around the upper cheeks as well. I think honestly you have to customise them to get them fitting well.

You need some wire cutters or a Dremel and some hot glue (you need to be able to remelt it in the future incase you want to move it). The elasticated edge of the mesh can be easily removed, try a hair dryer on it and then it will just peel away easily. Clean up the glue on it and then cut it to shape to fit your goggles. Once your goggles fit your mesh mask better you will also want to reshape it so it contours to your face. A pair of pliers or just a bit of elbow grease and you can bend it about and get it to the shape of your face. It takes a bit of work overall, and it took me 3 goes to really get it the right shape under the goggles (be wary of the angle of the face mask compared to the goggles when you work out the shape) but once I did its been a lot more comfortable. I am going to cut a little off the bottom now so I can look down better and I also intend to remove the straps and replace with clips to my goggles if possible.

I have a good guess what is wrong here, based on the range and the barrels in use and such I think I know what is happening, infact I am fairly certain I can help you, I just needed to know about the overhop and the barrel manufacturers. But lets be honest you have kind of treated me pretty poorly, so I am out. Good luck getting your gun fixed.

Accuracy is affected by - inconsistencies in gas from the gearbox - Hop unit and how evenly the force applied to the BB backspin is - The quality of the barrel ie its bore consistency and straightness You don't mention who made the barrels (not a good sign, the claimed inner diameter is worthless to determine the quality of the barrel fyi) and also I can't determine if the G&G TR4 was using the same gearbox or a different one, I am assuming a different one since its a different gun. So it could be the barrels, it could be the gearbox or it might be something to do with the hop buckings and their interaction with the nub/chamber. But 95m of range suggests massive amounts of overhop with a very high FPS.

I had a lot of trouble finding my Tavor last year, in the end I decided against the Ares because of its non standard internals and poor mag release button (mags just drop out). But you also have to be careful with buying an S&T tar 21. There are two models, the sport and the professional. The sport is utter rubbish, its got a plastic gearbox and that I think says it all. The professional on the other hand is a bit more expensive (should be around £200) and has blow back and this is one of the main ways you find the right gun, its sold by Elite force in the USA but its Umarex or just S&T here in the Europe. I had to buy from tiger as the gun was relatively new out last year when I got it, but I would hope that newer model has now made it to the UK.

If you fill it from CO2 cartridges it saves you nothing, but presumably you can refill it from a much larger tank that didn't cost anywhere near as much per cartridge. There are many ways to get compressed CO2, many are much much cheaper than the little canisters for a given volume.

I noted last year how incredible the lack of stock was here in the UK. If they loose on price then about the only advantage they have is being faster by having the stock available. Combined with the consumer protection that comes from European purchases its kind of the key advantages. So when they show as out of stock on their websites with no idea of time to deliver if ordered, well then they are pushing people to go abroad, because 1) they will know when it is due to arrive and 2) there is no indication whether the UK store would be faster or slower. I have bought 2 guns in the UK and 1 from Hong Kong. I would prefer to buy in the UK but not a single company here sold the S&T Tar 21 professional. They all carried the sport version (the really really terrible one) but no one carried the decent new one. When I was buying my T4-18 I actually wanted a CQB-S, but not a single company had one in stock at all. You wont find me making this mistake again, if I can't find the gun in the UK at a reasonable price I will be buying abroad.

I would concur that repairing your existing gun will likely fix the issue for a lot less cash. If you want a new gun then by all means buy one, but maintaining them is a big part of the hobby and you'll either want to pay a tech to do the work to repair it or learn to do it youself. Airsoft guns break, all the time. You don't just throw them away when they do, they aren't that cheap.

ZCI don't do well on straightness or inner barrel consistency from the mechanics reviews I have seen. The 6.02 is far too tight for actual accuracy (its a power increase barrel, accuracy ones are 6.05 and up). Sometimes ZCI do produce good barrels but they are highly variable in quality. If you have a decent barrel already then its not too hard with a bit of work to cut it down and even improve it from before with an orga like flare.

The sandpit is not really CQB, its a bit of MOUT but mostly gravel pit combat. Most of what happens at the sandpit is near maximum range out in the open. The times I played I have ended up walking kilometres across the pit and not fighting around the buildings at all. Its certainly not CQB in the way the mall or bunker 51 is, if anything its got a bit of urban combat thrown in but its 95% outdoors long range combat.

I have a T4-18, it has the pneumatic blow back from G&G. It basically adds noise and some visible motion of the bolt on firing, that is it. There is no recoil effect from the blow back, and the noise is metallic but its quite high pitched, so while distinctive and notably better compared to people without it (in terms of 'realism') its still not a very gun like noise. My Tar 21 on the other hand has a physical blow back, and its done with a decent chunk of metal. Its loud, and its a more appropriate noise. It does produce a little recoil effect due to the weight of the piece of metal but its mostly about the noise and the movement of the bolt visually (which you'll like look at in game). On the G&G guns is pneumatic, that means it uses air from the cylinder to power it. This is a pretty reliable system of blow back and combined with the light fake bolt its likely to last a decent amount of time. It doesn't impact rate of fire or air flow and hence it ends up being a reasonable solution. My Tar 21 however is physically connected to the gear box, the bolt is pulled back by the piston and it physically slams back and forth across the top of the gear box with each shot. This is showing some wear after 10k shots and I wouldn't be surprised to find it breaks in the next 10k-20k shots. Its most likely going to snap one of the screws that holds the piece on, they get a lot of wear under the head. But then its also louder and generally better than the what the G&G does in terms of actual blow back effect.

I had a read through it and I wasn't entirely clear what you can use the frequencies for. For example can you turn up on site, temporarily grant people on your team the same spectrum under your licence. The way I think its meant to work is anyone in your business can use it, so I assume all you can do is assign it to your frequent team members. I guess I am not 100% clean on what such a licence would grant you. I get a site using it and assigning them for use, that is the intended use, but an individual is a little different and has different use cases.

My different guns have different preferences for BBs. My G&G likes ASG Devil 0.28g BBs the best for CQB and its alright on 0.25g ASG's outdoors. On the other hand my Tar 21 loves G&G PBSP BBs and it underperforms with the ASG BBs. I think you have to try a bundle of different weights and brands through a gun to get a feel for what it likes and doesn't, what the hop can lift well etc. I don't think there is one brand of ideal BBs, I suspect each gun has a different preference.

Definitely need a lathe. Ideally you obviously want to cut it with a table saw for metal to get it nice and straight, then sand off the end and crown it and then also taper in the inernal barrel like they do on the Orca (See hunterseeker armouries for a tool to do that with a lathe).

250 fps? What the ..... The tests done showed no penetration of skin until about 328fps and even then it requires multiple strikes in the same place, its 350 fps for a single strike on bare single before the BB penetrates. There isn't a single manufacturer that produces guns that low that I know of, even TM guns wont work in there. My G&G CM16 gearbox refuses to turn over with an M80 spring in it, so it must really be quite hard to get guns down that low. I dont know about that site, its open all day, its frightening expensive, its a small venue and that FPS is just too low for most guns and not based on good science.

You have the grades and have offers to go to university then go to university. You'll be surrounded by other people who want to get their degrees (rather than the annoying idiots at school and somewhat less but still present at college). You have the choice so I would say take it. Can't promise it will turn into a direct job, but you will be a "graduate" and that will open some doors that would otherwise remain closed. Its not the end of your learning however, its just the beginning. I am a perpetual student, I read and learn in my field every day and its never going to stop until I stop working. It changes from being fed to you (college) to being pulled with a bit of structure (university) to choosing it entirely yourself (the career).

I think KWA ends up being a good middle ground between We's metal slide and TM's famous accuracy. Its still got the metal slide so it kicks well but at the same time its built better and more consistently than the We. I think they are the way to go considering the gas efficiency they manage to get with them as well as parts being pretty decent.

You just can't spend less than about £100 on a gun, its not possible to get a skirmshable gun for less than that.