BrightCandle

The TM is a much higher quality product. It lacks the metal slide and kick but you get to deal with all the Weisms (paint stripping off, pot metal components that break and leaky mags with a lot of maintenance etc). So given just those two choices I would get the TM, I value working over kick power and metallic and its likely got a better hop unit and accuracy. But given other options I personally went KWA because you get a better quality metal gun than with a We, its a lot more accurate and the hop actually works (unlike in my We P228!).

I didn't manage to get out this weekend to test it unfortunately. I will aim to do so next weekend however, rain or shine.

If I bought one it would definitely be for okto and if there is a chance it wouldn't arrive that would be bad. Well I have kind of said I wont bring a radio anyway so maybe I should just do that, play with yours if its there and consider one for a future game. I would rather not have the hassle of the extra weight and bulk of a radio and headset anyway so fudge it I might have convinced myself out of it now. Its really cool this is coming to airsoft like prices. Its not cheap of course but I really want to hear what it sounds like.

I am really keen to hear how it is. Do you have an estimate about when yours will be arriving?

Amused me somewhat. The ridiculous oversized magazines are I think especially funny (that box mag). The accuracy test shows just how much drop the paintballs have and also how inaccurate they kind of are comparatively.

In terms of airsoft the only current concern I think is the greens who would ban RIFs completely. I haven't seen any other parties make any particular moves one way or the other for our sport.

Most sites allow 2 tone and in around where I play I would say anywhere from 10-30% use two tone. About the only site I know that doesn't have any is UCAP sandpit because they don't allow two tones. But that is really rare, most sites allow them and its pretty normal to see them.

While I love the comfort of my viper boots they have a similar nubuck leather on them. During the winter when its muddy this stuff keeps the mud quite impressively and it colours, its a real pain to clean. So if going with the desert boot option I would recommend staying away from muddy fields and waterlogged woodland (billericay! I am wondering when your site is going to be reclassified as a spa and swimming pool). Alternatively seal it and loose the look.

Usually the rear wiring length is more about the stock tube and its length than the stock. The wiring should extent to the end of the buffer tube. If it doesn't, if its basically not as long as your overall stock and it connects nearer the receiver then you may very well need a female tamiya to a male tamiya extension (or just extend the wiring yourself with some solder and heatshrink).

I think I am in for like 2.5k now and that doesn't include the game costs!

Oh yeah I forgot about the modification to the mag well, I had to grind down the spine on the back to even fit the magazines in it.

I don't like my T4-18, its not exactly high quality. The main issue I have with it is the charging handle has fallen apart twice, the accuracy and range are both poor and I have had numerous feeding issues with a variety of magazines. So far I can't say I have been impressed with either G&G gun, they work but they are kind of the budget option and the top tech is a bit meh for the price. My friends gun (G&P) shoots a lot further and more accurately out of the box frankly and also has none of the magazine feeding issues and his gun hasn't fallen apart mid game. I don't know people keep recommending the G&G's and so far I have had to take both mine apart to make them work, found numerous QC issues, not actually been all that happy with the internals or the final results. That isn't to say other brands are better only G&G isn't exactly amazing either. If you have it spend more and get something with a bit more realism (like a PTS).

Not as far as any of us know. Its still the only place in a year of airsofting where I have been shot with a gun so hot it actually hurt me severely. I haven't been back for a reason.

This is for my Tar 21. I have basically left the G&G T4-18 to be a CQB gun although I need to gear it up for okto in a months time. I have mainly been working on the Tar 21, replaced the motor, the piston and head, the cylinder head, the nozzle. That fixed the airseal and the trigger pull but then I saw how inaccurate the hop was being applied, a G&G green bucking helped but not enough so I started a Z kit R hop into it using an M nub. My first attempt didn't go so well with the overhopping but it was partly the bucking and partly the hop patch, I hadn't quite got it sanding enough. That is now fixed so the issue was entirely my own. This is what I know about R hop so far (at 350fps): - My previous hop unit with a G&G green could lift .25g BBs fine, but not a .28g devil, whereas the G&G T4-18 could lift the .28g's OK (so its the hop unit not the rubber). - The rhop was overhopping a .28g devil impressively, I have bought some 0.3 and 0.32's to test with that as well as I basically need to choose the ammo on the basis of the lift because you can't really change the lift it gives much. So its better than how the gun came before, and it can apply more backspin than a G&G green bucking, even in the G&Gs decent hop chamber. What I saw at UCAP was about 20m more maximum range with 0.25g BBs and maybe a little more than that with the 0.28g BBs. But neither was really usable due to overhop and ATPs numbers suggest this are right where I would expect with overhop. So my prediction from where I am is that it will fix my hop inconsistency due to the rubbish plastic hop unit that is in my S&T Tar 21 pro, but it doesn't look like its amazingly going to increase range and certainly not out to 90m as some people are saying it does. But the overhop had my FPS swinging like 10 fps so I can't really predict much from a badly installed R hop. Edit: I should also mention it took a lot longer than the "10 minutes" suggested on the guides to this even though I bought all the right bits and pieces (including RTV for the glue between patch and barrel). The main reason it took longer was because I needed the middle patch and it had a reasonable gap to the edges and it needed a lot of sanding. With 400 grit sandpaper I think it took about 2 hours of sanding to get the patch down to the barrel. Its partly due to the fine sandpaper but mostly due to the fact that the patch isn't really held in place strongly enough for sandpaper to run over it in an arch. So I had to go back and forth slowly and softly so as not to detach the patch. In the end the first time I called it "good enough" and it ended up overhopping. Now its actually flush but it was another 1 hour of sanding to get it there. I can't say it was quick or painless (I ended up sanding my own fingers a lot holding the patch in place) and the RTV did not say liquid long enough to finish the process so that was a waste of time as I ended up sticking it with superglue (still not strong enough to sand away without concern). So all in all I have found the process of installing it a bit frustrating. The larger patch was just slightly too tall so I couldn't use it but the medium patch was a bit off. I would have probably been better off with the tall patch and sanding the legs to bring it down rather than what I did. So just be aware of this if you do it to an odd barrel (S&T in this case) like I did. I also lapped the inside of the barrel and its very smooth and shiny now. I will be seeing the impact of both of these things done together rather than individually, but at least at home against paper at 10m lapping looks like its worth it. My grouping of 1.5 inches looks to be "same hole" on 10 shots (but with fliers due to the overhop) so maybe its 1cm now. I do feel like I am making process making the gun shoot well, the airseal definitely helped no doubt about it I can recommend fixing bad airseal. R hop and lapping not sure on yet.

People use different measures when they talk about range as well. Some of them talk about the effective flat trajectory range (before the BB starts loosing height) and some talk about the point where it hits the ground (having dropped 1.5m or so). These two numbers are very different and the maximum range != effective range. With R hop so far my effective range has dropped, but my maximum range increased. Hopefully the changes I have made should at the very least return my effective range to normal and if it is any more consistent than a G&G green I'll know pretty quickly as I will be testing it in the same place in the same way, I did this because I needed to see for myself if it was a lie, as the claim is that it gets further range due to the fact it spins the BB more naturally and I had to test it. I suspect ATP is 100% right and that it makes no real range difference but that it does perhaps improve consistency which will improve accuracy. I will have a look at it at Billericay next week and I will report back on my findings, positive or not.

My first attempt at R hop didn't go well. It ended up overhopping enormously, so while my range was apparently improved it was also sending the rounds up super high so it really wasn't a fair comparison. I wont be trying out this weekend but I will try it next weekend and see if hopefully the adjusted one is shooting any better. But from what I saw so far it doesn't look like its a massive increase in range.

The We magazines you fill them until the gurgling noise stops. If you stick your ear near the magazine you'll hear it filling and when its full it'll stop making noise. A lot of the TM magazines spurt out gas when they are full.

I personally have found 3x about the sweet spot for my AEG for spotting BBs and where they are landing. But with a sniper you might find a bit more is useful as you'll be looking about twice as far.

I have another 2 scopes that might be worth looking into: - Red wolf airsofts fibre optic 1-4x - The Bushnell banner dawn and dusk (about £110 on amazon). I was looking for a short dot, in the end went with the Bushnell and have found getting a flash hider for it near impossible but the sight is really clear. On high magnification the sweet spot is a tad too small IMO but on 1.1x or so its got great eye relief.

They usually start with a Village domination (capture the point in the middle and hold for 30 minutes) and which lasts up to about an hour. They tend to go out to the game only a few times a day and its much like billericay, they do some defend and fall back style scenarios and then some longer game modes where you have to find a thing and take it to the place that is longer. Games run anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours or so and you don't go back to the safe zone very often unless you need to reload. In the summer it was about 40 people. No idea what its like in winter but its enough for the site size. Billericay is pretty big at 120 acres, IIRC its 20 acres, so quite a bit smaller than billericay. But don't let that fool you, this site is tough going because its a lot more brush covered woodland with quite a lot of fallen trees and such. There is a lot of cover here and a lot of places to hide. At its narrowest its just 20m wide or so and its sort of a triangle shaped wood between fields but at the widest point however its much larger and they have some quite interesting areas like the jungle and the base in the woods.

I have been there quite a lot. I find it a real pain to travel there, since they got rid of the pickup service from the tram station I have only been down there once, ended up walking and am not a fan as the journey is pretty bad. Taxis for the final stint are really hard to find. The site itself is mostly woodland, quite a lot of pretty thick woodland. I really like TWA, its one of my favourite sites, I have had some great moments with 3 awesome guys crawling through the woods as a fireteam. I don't really have any issues with the site, was happy with the safety, was happy with the site itself and some of the guys I play with there are amazing. There are bigger and better woodland games to be had IMO but its still a decent day out.

The only time I really thought the game was good was when they put on a game with only a few days notice. Only about 20 people turned up (half the usual) and the game was no where near as stilted and we did actually manage to push around the corner and have them push us back as well. It was still that one choke point for everything but I could see how the site would play once it was 5v5 (what it was designed for).

A metallic crunching noise could be the gears crashing against the anti reversal latch, although I can't say I have ever heard it myself so its not a normal noise. Could also just be the gears are not shimmed well and its making a lot of noise when the gears are stopped immediately on anti reversal, that could very well make quite a bit of noise. Or it could be something like the tappet or nozzle scrapping on something. Its an open it up and look for the damage/wear type of description that one I am afraid. Which since its in warranty I would just send it back and let the retailer send you a nice new working one, especially since the FPS is sounding on the low side as well.

When its close up they can sting a bit. Eventually you not only get used to it, you don't even mind it anymore. Eventually the fear of getting shot will fade away, the adrenaline will reduce and you'll be able to run around and shoot a lot more, making the plays that can break the enemy down without much fear but getting the same sort of buzz from it all.

What do you mean by its not firing properly on semi? Could be a variety of potential problems (jamming the gearbox temporarily or failing to discharge the round etc etc). Have you had the FPS of the gun tested? Might be an idea to do so and just make sure something isn't obviously wrong in the pneumatics of the gun and that its compressing air sufficiently.