BrightCandle

I am in two minds. On the one hand on that site if you use the torch you give your position away and destroy your nightvision. On the other hand the ground is uneven and its pretty dangerous without being able to see the ground.

It is really very immersive. Okto in the last game had its "filmsim" elements, characters played by the staff to do particular things and drive the story and the missions along but really what made the game was all your team mates and the tactical play. In a skirmish when you put someone somewhere they wander off after 5 minutes, that just doesn't happen, your team mate will take his sector seriously. There were many moments of brilliance in the previous game, most of them unscripted by the organisers and more to do with the team mates and how they acted. I highly recommend it, it is so far the best "airsoft" game I have ever played by a long way. You can't ever get that experience in a normal skirmish because they lack the level of commitment and command and control.

I wish the mosfets were the only issue with the gen 3's, but its not. Stick with gen 2 and do the fet work yourself.

The main problem with flat hops is that you have to choose a bucking that is both good for contact and for seal, its an unfortunate trade off. There is a reason R hop is considered superior, it doesn't compromise the seal (you can choose a hard 80 degree lonex bucking for seal) and still have the ideal patch as well. Saying that you can get a good result with flat hop if you use a G&G green and those are fairly easy to find.

Considering for a £200 more you can get a substantially faster PC than the console it doesn't seem worth throwing money at an underpowered locked down computer in todays age. You definitely do not have to spend £1500 on a gaming PC, so long as you spend £600 well you'll get a much faster machine than a console and the games will be a lot cheaper.

Its all about the safety for me. Seen too many people pull out their sidearm and then realise the safety is on and get hit in return. So I have vowed to stick with double action/decock and trigger safety guns just because the negligent discharge impact is so low. I prefer lightweight since its a secondary and having medium sized hands I prefer not to get anything really big nor anything with very large amounts of sculpting. I do care about it being a military weapon to an extent but I care less about that now than I did. I bought a KWA ATP after accuracy tests of multiple copies of the pistol showed its accuracy to be stunning.

I think there are a few good reasons for a replica glock that are also what makes the real steel popular: - Its light due to the polymer design. - The trigger safety means you leave the gun loaded and just draw and fire. - The lack of safety switch means you'll never pull the trigger and get nothing (well if its loaded). - Interchangeable sights - Rails for attaching flashlights and such The 226 being my other gun has a decock and double action but that is almost always a terrible accuracy first shot on draw and its really heavy compared to the KWA ATP I have. Then you can go into the parts argument from the airsoft side for upgrades and such.

That would be me. Isn't anyone else at Billericay with a Tar 21.

I saw a guy have a smoke grenade go off in his trouser pockets in billericay a few weeks ago. It burnt a hole out of his trousers, hands and leg. I always keep pyro separated and in pouches away from my skin and so far I have kept my shotgun caps in their box so they are separated but its a bit of a concern of mine if one goes off many others could as well. I don't think its worth taking risk with pyro, safety first.

I run mine at 345-347, 340 is a mile away from the limit. There is variance in chrono's but if its that much someone has a broken one and/or a low battery.

So far I have been using the box they come in with strips of masking tape which I think B4ME recommended I do a year ago. I think a little dispenser for these things would be really cool and its got a market at this point.

I know the guys there pretty well and they are strict about the limit but they will also find a way for you to enjoy the day they really are a great group of guys running this site. Which if for you is buying a spring and downgrading it then that is what you can have happen. Everyone goes through this with their first airsoft gun, I had no information in the box of mine at all and I had to take it off to a shop to get it chronoed for a fee and found it was over 328 and faced the need to downgrade it. You and I know you don't want to hurt anybody and you don't want a gun shooting hot in the chrono area and getting rejected for the day, but the retailers in the UK do know what they are doing and when they listed that FPS they did so to ease your fears. They often downgrade guns imported and test them to ensure they are within limits for the sites around the UK. If you are going to Billericay this weekend I will be there, in Flecktarn with a Tar 21 (no one else is going to match that description). I will bring my toolbox and an M100 spring that is about 330fps in my CM16, I can fix it if the gun comes out hot. I have my own CM16 so I know how they come apart (I'll bring my hammer!). I can also bring some wire cutters and a blow torch and shorten your spring a coil as well to get it just under the limit to maximise your range. Either is fine with me. But I doubt you'll need the help.

if it says 340 in the box its pretty likely all is well. The guys at billericay will be able to help if it turns out its above the limit, they have a tech and shop on site so a replacement spring should be possible.

Thankfully in our country we can just return it under the distance selling regulations if its not any good. A bit of delivery costs but not a lot else.

As far as I know any airgun, including an airsoft one is a firearm. Its classed as a realistic imitation firearm in the law, that is its technical name. If you are caught using a airsoft gun in a crime and you are doing it armed despite its lack of offensive. So I think its banned from our site entirely.

Those G&G midcaps are a nightmare in any gun. They feed awful in everything I have tried, most guns don't work at all with them and a few will fire but miss lots of rounds and then have issues with double feeds and all sorts of issues. I own a load which I can't bring myself to sell to anyone because they are utter garbage. Its not just G&G guns, its every gun I have tried including a TM, a G&P, an S&T and a G&G combat machine and a few others I didn't get the details of what it was. I haven't found a gun they work in, those magazines are not fit for purpose and you should return them immediately for a full refund.

Are you using g&g midcaps by any chance? If so its the same prollem I had, its the mags.

They could start producing perfect guns and it would take years for the perception issue they have to turn around. All of us have such a small window onto the actual products that its impossible for us to have an accurate representation of the actual good and bad guns anyway. There isn't a functioning review system for airsoft guns, most of its sponsored videos, there is tonnes of sales but no independent review. So with users having so little experience and many reviews online being either amateurs with a few guns or paid for sales pitch its basically impossible to choose good Airsoft equipment. So I can tell you this is the issue I have with Ares, but its based on looking at things like the internals of the Ares Tar 21 and others general impressions. The problem is I don't own an Ares, I chose the S&T precisely because of the breakdown of the parts of the Ares gun someone did in a youtube video. So here you are now in a sea of information, knowing its all basically useless because its either low quality or company sponsored trying to buy a good product and you just can't work out how to do so. Its pretty frustrating.

And they defected to the rebels together as well. I am kind of old as well, don't worry amongst the teenagers you'll find plenty of other middle aged and sometimes very old players. I met a Australian Vietnam vet in Total Warfare Airsoft taking his grandson. Different sites have different age ranges, you'll find more adults at places like UCAP sandpit and billericay then you do at TWA and the mall. The more milsim like it is the older people seem to get on average in my experience.

Not as far as I have seen. BBs seem to do three types of damage to guns: 1) They leave residue in the barrel that needs to be cleaned off, this is true of all BBs and its to do with the waxy coating they have. 2) They splinter or break and leave pieces about. Very rare, normally only an issue with using 0.12g BBs but it can happen. 3) The BB repeatedly getting spun back by the bucking rubber will wear the rubber down. I don't see why a heavier BB would do anything other than increase the wear and tear on the bucking, and even then I suspect the difference would be marginal.

The issue is Ares is usually the amount of proprietry pieces that can't be upgraded and replaced and the lacklustre parts that result in poor performance overall. They break a lot and they are hard to fix.

I own the G&G T4-18 gen 3 and a good friend uses the G&P M4 all be it with the monolithic rail not keymod. The key differences having fired both guns to me were: - The hop in the G&P works better, is easier to dial in and the end result is it fired quite a bit further. - The G&P externals look significantly better. The G&G is not great metal quality and the lack of smoothness shows on the finish. They also missed with the paint in a few places on mine whereas the G&P as far as I could tell was flawless. The marking on magazine well for the G&P was also better. Overall externals definitely go to the G&P. - The G&P trigger was a shorter softer pull and trigger response was quite a bit quicker. - The G&P felt like it was a lot heavier. The usual saying is G&P is better externally (it really is) but the G&G is better internally. But based on the firing results side by side I think the G&P has a better end result. Having taken a look at the G&G internals I wasn't all that impressed with the quality of the parts, it may very well be that the G&P are worse but for a potential project gun to build on you are better off with good externals as the internals can be fixed if it doesn't shoot well. So overall personally having seen both guns skirmished a lot over the last 6 months if I knew then what I know now I would buy the G&P without reservation, its simply the better gun objectively and subjectively. Its a lot more expensive as well, they aren't really in the same price brackets.

Lipo's have better trigger response, better than a 9.6V Nimh because they deliver a lot more current a lot more quickly which is what the motor needs. Despite the voltage for lipo's being listed as 7.4 that is actually its minimum when its out of power. They range up to 8.5V and they spend 50% of their time above 8V.

A lot of people consider KWA and KSC are the same company more or less, but they aren't. The guns are designed by different companies even though KSC makes them for both brands. The recent KWA ones are different to the KSC guns. The situation between the two companies has evolved. I suspect KSC aren't available in the USA, so while it might look on the surface like the distinction is just KSC in Europe and KWA in the USA that isn't actually the case anymore. KWA do their own design but still use KSC to manufacturer. KWA can no longer sell glock replicas in the USA due to licensing complaints from Glock there and so now you will find things like the ATP in place of the Glock 17 model they used to have whereas KSC do sell the Glock 17. But KWA's recent lineup of pistols is all NS2 and better materials than the KSC guns, which are often pre NS2. Neither company has made it 100% clear what the split is, but its certainly more than the basic licensing differences since KWA has models KSC doesn't have which perform much better than the older range. I haven't used a KSC pistol, only the KWA ATP and I only looked into reviews of the KWA pistols. So just be aware they aren't really the same anymore after what happened last year with Glock.

They are meant to be decent enough. They aren't any good for R hops and the like but for a normal hop rubber they are meant to be good.