Mr Monkey Nuts
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Posts posted by Mr Monkey Nuts
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The standard O Ring on my JG BAR is (lets just say) poor, It leaks and has very little compression, despite a fairly consistent and decent FPS.
The piston itself is ok and I have no reason to put an alloy one in, its simply just a bad sized O Ring.
'Murica says #14 is best for compression, but causes resistance, slowing the cylinder head, while #13 doesn't seal as tightly, but returns better travel. However it would appear the standardised sized don't translate to the UK very well.
So what size do I need and where can I get some? ASPUK dont list them and i cant find anywhere that does. Now I'm beginning to think they may just be standard AEG sized?
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7/10 bad bolt action rifles are caused by poorly zerod sights, the other three are broken Sears, unlubed bolt and poor compression.
Plastic spring guide, piston and standard triggers really are not as bad as the hype would make them out to be. The VSR hop up is Pretty good as standard, the only upgrade you may need is a good quality TBB and a decent hop up suited to the fps and weight of bb your shooting.
Go into sniping with your own mind, there is a lot of 3rd hand unfounded tosh spoken about them.
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Most of my current sites play fairly quick attack and defend games where range accuracy and tactics are more valuable than concealment, however A few min with a shemagh and ...
I need to leave a little of the left hand side exposed so not to jam up the bolt, but a few well placed cable ties cover most of the glint, you will only see it if your coming from the side where you will probably already have the drop on me.
I tried to strip and polish the barrel on my m4, until I realised it was hard anodised, gave up and painted it. Plus I can't justify spending any money on a polishing wheel this close to Christmas.
It would look very nice properly cut back and mirror finished. I did consider getting it pseudo chrome plated at my local car tarter upper, but for the price of the tape I think it's a reasonable compromise.
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My Rifle is having a bit of an identity crisis, inspired by the TM Pro Hunter, And maybe a little from the new Jurassic World trailer
It started all black, then became a bit camo'd
And today has transformed to ...
I stripped all the Camo tape off the scope and sprayed it with some Plastikote Brilliant Metallic chrome effect paint. Its not chrome at all, its very flat, but still retains a metallic look. Unfortunately you cant lacquer it as it turns the paint a dull grey akin to primer.
The barrel and receiver of the gun was blinged up with some Aluminium tape. Its used by builders who need alloy tape for stuff. It only cost £5 for 10m and is pretty good. I got the idea from watching a Tested Video on Youtube, apparently Hollywood prop makers use it to make chrome things. A quick bit of brasso and it can polish up quite shiny, or a quick once over with wire wool gives it a matt stainless steel look.
Its just like tin foil, but thicker and sticky backed. just lay it in an smooth it out. It does wrinkle if not careful and my first attempt Its not perfect when you get close up, but it is non permanent and just peels off.
I'm working on a velcro veil made of a shemagh and scrim to cover it up for when i do want to play stealthily.
What do you think, I like it, but i'm not sure i'm going to keep it forever.
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No body is telling him anything, we are offering advice and personal opinion, he is free to listen or disregard them at his choice.
No amount of armor or padding or protection will prevent bbs from hitting vulnerable spots and being painful. You can not escape from the fact that he will get hit and will sting a little. It's the whole basis of the sport.
If you don't what your child to be exposed to it then airsoft may not be the game of choice.
As an adult and I hope many other are with me, I try very hard not to dominate younger players, especially as young as 13, but it's not easy and often leads to my own demise.
unfortunately there are many 'yoofs (read: under 18s) but also adults who don't take it easy on kids and will open up a hi cap onto them without a second thought. Padding won't protect him, either train him up to deal with it or wait a few years till he can cope.
Just my opinion, take it or leave it.
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No yours is correct for when the hammer is not cocked, it can't fire and simulates the bolt being locked back. When you cock the hammer, it should line up like the one I pictured.
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That's with the hammer not cocked, when it's cocked it draws the striker back. It's should look like this
If you remove the bolt half from the upper reciever and place it on top of the trigger half with the mag in, does it form a very close fit and does the gas route fit into the magazine fully? The two halves should mate perfectly and There should be less than 1 mm clearance near the magazine.
Failing that, it's going to be a full strip, clean and re lube of the cylinder and bolt assembly. If it is dirty and giving a bit of extra resistance it could be slowing the action down enough to just dump all gas. As it relies on the bolt fully cycling to re cock the hammer and draw the striker back. If it doesn't re cock the trigger it leaves the striker foreward engaging the valve.
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When you cock the hammer the pin come back and sits perfectly over the valve?
Although I still think this sounds like a gas issue, have you tried it with a different can of gas and with warm (room temp) mags and gas?
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Im slightly concerned that as an engineer you are stumped by this .. it is the middle part of the three piece G&G barrel., it fits to the gun / rail end via a grub screw or two, extends out and the end piece with the sight post and flash hider sits on the end of this with another couple of grub screws.
if you want it longer just find another piece of tube with the same outer diameter and cut it to the length you want, although if you are still going to use the original rail it will look bad.
You would be better buying a new 15 inch Chinese barrel from ebay. If you are attaching Delta Rings and a hand guard you may get away with it.
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Is the rubber O ring still in place on the round silver metal gas inlet on the top half of the box? And is the hop up unit pushed all the way forward into the receiver, it's a very tight fit to get them to align properly and seal up.
With these if you push the mag too high or pull the mag slightly back, it can prematurely trigger the valve, if you look at a g5 mag the valve is recessed for this reason.
So if you have to push it to line up, then I would assume the main hardware isn't in place properly.
Could you take the top reciever off and take a top down picture with the magazine in place so I can see how it's sitting?
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Is the rubber O ring still in place on the round silver metal gas inlet on the top half of the box? And is the hop up unit pushed all the way forward into the receiver, it's a very tight fit to get them to align properly and seal up.
With these if you push the mag too high or pull the mag slightly back, it can prematurely trigger the valve, if you look at a g5 mag the valve is recessed for this reason.
So if you have to push it to line up, then I would assume the main hardware isn't in place properly.
Could you take the top reciever off and take a top down picture with the magazine in place so I can see how it's sitting?
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You may want to check the mag is not leaking either full it up and listen if it still hisses after you stop filling, it's leaking.
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From that video, I'm almost certain you need more gas, the 2 seconds you filled the mag is not enough, you need to count to 6 with and or Mississippi between them.
GHK don't actually recommend filling the mags fully, which I found takes about 8 seconds.
They should also be silent fill valves, the hissing sound generally mans you are not sitting home in the valve and putting the gas into the air, not the gun, take care to come vertically and apply a bit of pressure.
Also shake the gas can, and make sure it is at least a third full, any less and the pressure drops to almost nothing especially when cold.
The video shows it's cycling properly, just venting when has pressure drops low enough to stop it cycling fully.
And remember that the dry fire switch is vital to making it work properly.
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First off check the very basics:
is the gas can a new can or is at at least a third full, any less and you may start running into trouble.
It should also take about 6 seconds to fill the mag completely. Less time filling means less gas in the mag.
Is the magazine set to dry fire or do you have it sufficiently loaded? The dry fire switch should be on the left of the magazine near the round gas port. Push the follower into the mag to compress the spring then slide the switch foreward locking it down, it shouldn't be protruding out any more. Now it is in dry fire mode.
When you put it back together there is a little switch/ lever in the trigger that causes the mech to mimic the bolt picking back when empty, this may be the cause of your issue.
Take it apart and split the two halves, with the gun in semi push the biggest part, the hammer so it is flat,
Now in the right had side in front of the hammer, next to the striker is a small lever pointing up vertically to twelve o clock, push it towards the front of the gun so it's now closer to eleven o clock. The trigger should now pull crisply and the striker should strike foreward and stay there. Ensure the Mag is out when you test it.
Repeat the steps above, reset the hammer and the little lever.
Now attach the upper reciever and mate the two halves up. It should already be cocked but pull the charge handel to double check.
Now hold it upside down and dry fire it a few times without a mag while looking into the mag well. Ensure the striker comes foreward on the trigger pull and withdraws when manually cocked with the handle. It only has about 6mm travel, but it should be noticeable the two different positions.
Now load a mag set to dry fire and test it in semi. Cock it and fire it, it should have shot one shot and reset it's self ready for the next, try a second and third. Flip to auto and test a few bursts.
It's very difficult to put it into text and even a video, but it can be a little temperamental and I did have a few problems initially, simply down to me not knowing how it worked. The little lever controls a lot and the dry firing switch can cause problems too.
My advise would be to strip it down again and follow the above procedure. If something doesn't go as written, let me know at which point and we can work out the issue.
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GHK make the part and sell it as a standalone. G&G fit it to their body and sell it as a factory build GBB, so yes its a genuine GBB, His gun was never built as an AEG, so was never converted to one.http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/product_info.php?products_id=8297
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Everything is the same as its AEG counter part just has a gas blow back gearbox, so it isn't a genuine GBB.
If it has a gas blow back gearbox how is it not a genuine gas blowback? it uses gas and it blows back, just because its a different configuration to other GBBs doesnt make it any less valid.
Also it uses an AEG hop up and barrel and mimics the shape of a V2 gearbox, nothing else is interchangeable with an AEG at all, even the fire selector is diffrent.
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oops you do need an AEG hop up and barrel.
Here is that link: http://www.gtapex.com/08/airsoft_ghk_gbbar.html
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Its the GHK GBB internals fitted into a V2 gearbox size, with a redesigned and shortened bolt action, its akin to a closed bolt system. Its not great when compared to more expensive and more modern GBB, but a good compromise and a solid performer.
Ammo size you will never win with, carry more mags or learn to shoot better.
Mine definitely prefers .25 and .28 over .20.
Its strange that you are getting poor range, mine will happily and accurately reach out to 40 meters, (that converts to 60 airsoft meters
) and can be lobbed onto a target up to about 55 ish.The hop up unit isn't brilliant, and isn't forgiving for poor barrel or rubber quality, first off make sure the unit is cleaned and lubricated properly, ensure the feeding nozzel is returning home into the hop up unit fully. you shouldn't be able to see any of the brass tip. if you can you may need to file some of the bolt cover down.
The barrel can twist inside the hop up unit and can leak, I sealed the hop up rubber with PTFE and wrapped some around the outside of the rubber to make it a tighter fit in the hop up. It doesn't have the ususal brass ring to stop soem blow past for some reason only known to GHK.
G&G green hop up rubber is usually quite good, make sure its in good nick and make sure the nub is still in place, it can fall out when removing the barrel.
Similarly the G&G barrels are usually pretty good, give it a good clean with some bog roll and IPA while its out.
Its also worth double checking the condition of the O ring piston seal, its not as smooth a bore as I would like, and can get caught and damaged if not heavily and regularly lubricated,
There is a good website with an install and strip down guide, I will try to find it for you.
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What exactly is the problem? What sort of range are you currently getting?
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There is a fairly small but active IPSC style pistol shooting competition scene using airsoft guns, where are you located?
Halo Mill in Huddersfield have target sessions every Monday evening, they are a good friendly bunch and shoot everything from completely standard guns to full spec "open class".
They have been to European championships and I think have even hosted some high profile comps recently.
If you are not local to the Leeds area, you could phone them on a monday evening they may know of someone you can get in touch with.
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Most common used screws have a similar metric pitch, so if you have a ruler or vernier guage you can work out what size screws you need if you have one to compare it to.
As a rough rule the M Number is the diameter of the shaft of the screw, so an M3 would be 3mm wide, and M6 6mm wide Ect.
The length is the length, most screws will need to be cut/ground to the correct length, so always buy longer than you need.
Then decide if you need countersunk head which is a v shape, or a rounded head which is a hill shape, or a flat head screw.
Then finally decide what head you need a Phillips, flat or allen key.
Once you know them, you can nip to your local ironmonger or diy shop and find the correct screws. Its unlikely B&Q will have what you like and halfords will rip you off for very poor fixings.
Ebay is a good place to look if you know the correct size you need, Personally if i'm replacing one I like to replace them all.
I have used Kayfast a few times, they are pretty good quality and fairly quick to deliver, although not the cheapest.
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Where did you get it from? I haven't been able to find any in stock for the last 6 months.
- Airsoft_Mr B and Ian_Gere
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2
Inflammable Gas for Gas Guns
in Gas Guns
Posted
The amount of propane that gets released is barely enough to ignite once it hits atmosphere, and there is nothing in the gun likely to be hot enough to cause ignition inside the barrel.
in short, Propane is a very flamable gas as it's atmospheric volume will expand to 240 times it liquid volume. Its also fairly safe as in open air the gas can dissipate quite quickly. It becomes quite hazardous when you enclose or prevent the gas from dissipating into the air, which we don't do.
I honestly don't know the volume of a Gas Mag, but its not a huge amount when you look at the reservoirs, (It takes <1 second to vent my whole m4 mag), combined with the valve only releasing a tiny amount at a time, the amount of gas you are releasing at any one time is minimal.
I did an experiment of lighting my propane once, it was very unspectacular.