Samurai

You need defence when you want to import (bring from abroad) your RIF. Defence can be UKARA but if you can prove you are an airsofter, that's okay too. For example if you are a registered member of an airsoft club, and you have the paperwork, that should work - if they can check it somehow. Or you have booked for an airsoft event here in the UK and the site can confirm it, that should also work. So you can prove you are an airsofter without UKARA but it's harder. And if that doesn't work out, the rifs will be destroyed. Once your RIF is here, you don't need anything, it's legal to own them. As for the other equipment: if those are legal to own and import to the UK, it should be ok. When I moved here, I two-toned my gun by changing the stock and the frontset to some cheap ones painted bright green. I also brought the normal parts. Then I booked for an airsoft event, and switched them to the proper ones on site (manufactured RIF, but since I was at the airsoft event, that was my defence). Switched back to IF at the end of the game. I did that 3 times got my UKARA number, and imported the rest of my rifs.

That A&K M4 is very good. It's the new version where the hopup is TM compatible too. It has aluminum body, CNCd ras, high torque motor, good internals. Also taiwangun offers free downgrade, just tell them the fps you want. Just clean the barrel and hopup properly after you get it, they like to use too much grease.

At that age I didn't know what I wanted to be, so because I liked to draw with computers and was better in math and physics than in history and such, I went to be an architect. I really struggled and I gave up after the first successful semester. It wasn't my thing. I took some job half heatedly and I felt miserable. Then finally realized that I always liked computers so I learned and became an IT engineer. So if you don't have anything in your mind, don't start something you don't really want. But don't give up on the uni, you'll be much better off with it, once you find out what you want.

If you would be able to go to a game and rent a gun, skip that game, add that money to the £70 and you'll have just enough for the decent gun.

I travel light. If more mags are needed, I have a simple chest rig, and if it's a whole day non-stop game, I add a small backpack too.

Oh, that kind of walking. Yeah, that's not good.

Hi. Where was that? I want to do that.

Cymas are awesome.

Take a crappy picture of it.

Keep us posted on this please. It is a very interesting setup.

Welcome. There aren't many girls in this sport but as far as I know all of them are highly respected members of the community.

Well, that defeats the purpose of capitalism. And I believe that's why there are laws against this.

If you are doing DIY, it's much better to put it in the hopup IMO.

Don't take me seriously. The small one will work on aegs fine, it's just me that this size would not work on real steel, thus it hurts my eyes. I have a QD suppresor and QD it when going cqb. This seems to be working.

Please stop putting pistol suppressors on rifles. Thank you.

All I can say is that I've tried it and there was no noticeable difference to a decent hopup rubber. The fellow airsoft mechanics I know and tried it, said the same. There are simply no magical things in airsoft unfortunately. These are like the miracle fuel savers for cars. They do sound good, but they just don't work. Find the hopup rubber your gun likes, assemble the gun correctly, clean the barrel and the rubber with soapy water and then alcohol. If your barrel is not very good, get a straight one, like Marui, or the better precision barrel brands and use the best quality bbs. If you do this, you get the best performance you can have in AS.

If you shoot a lot, use 0.25. There are more in the bottle for the same price, and you will hit the target with a few bursts. If you shoot on semi auto, use the heaviest BB your gun can handle. Bios are even more accurate because there are less or no air bubbles inside. Try G&G bio, those are not bad as far as I know. (I don't buy my bbs here so I haven't tested the brands available here.)

Fps-wise you are correct. The same guy who shot the video says that above 500 fps there is no more range gained, only the travel time is reduced. Heavier BBs do increase the range, but only very slightly, as seen on the link Mack put here. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to be a dick here. If you can shoot an A3 on 100m 10/9 and you have a proper video of it that'll be awesome, and I'll need to do something about my rifle.

Cool. Please measure that 100 meters (not feet, not steps). Write down your fps, gun setup, BBs too. Get someone or a camera next to the target to show the hits. This way this will be a fine reference. As far as I know, one can hit a chest sized target reliably on 70m with a good setup, so it will be interesting for me to see whether 100m is achievable. This is from a sniper I know and you can't really get better gun than the one he is using - note: in Hungary 600fps is allowed for snipers.

No offence, but it's an urban legend.

Be careful with britishmilitarysurplus. I've ordered an ubac from them, and it turned out that the sizing is way off. My chest is exactly 112cm so it's Extra Large according to their chart. However the XL ubac was gigantic. It took quite a few emails with photos to convince them to send me a new one if I return the big one. I still had to pay the return P&P. They said that it's not their fault if their supplier gives wrong size (according to their logic it's my fault.) Otherwise they sell good stuff but the customer service is not very customer oriented...

The full metal JGs are actually pretty good. If it does nothing at all, it is most probably electric. My first thought was that the motor contacts came off, but you say your buddy swapped the motor, so it must be something else. Have you checked the fuse?

Stick a thin piece of plastic or a few layers of duct tape in the back of the magwell. Something like this: http://imagizer.imageshack.us/scaled/medium/853/43sb.jpg It's not an M4 but you get the picture. This pushes the mag forward, so the feeding part moves up.

It's easy to do. Unscrew the bottom two screws, remove the bottom plate, take a good look where the wires are exactly. Pull the wires off the motor, pull the motor out. Unscrew the screws inside the grip, pull the grip off carefully. Put the new grip on, arrange the wires and put the motor in. Connect the wires, screw back the bottom plate. Now adjust the motor height. Without magazine or BBs, fire the gun. Be careful, there might be one BB left in the barrel. If you hear loud screeching and the gun doesn't fire, turn the motor height screw in, the motor doesn't reach the gears. Turn the motor height adjuster screw in, until the gears turn a bit slower or stop. That's too high. Lower the motor bit by bit, until you find the most quiet height. It is just below the "too high". If you lower it even further, the gun still fires, but the gears are louder, because they are connecting too loosely.