Lozart

Generally your warranty will run from date of original purchase to cover defects in the purchased product. If the shop doing the repair under warranty is officially authorised by the manufacturer then that warranty should be intact. If not then they're effectively invalidated whatever warranty the OEM offered and you'll be at the mercy of whatever the retailer offers as a warranty on parts and labour. In normal (non airsoft) circumstances that's usually going to be in the order of three months but in the case of airsoft I'd say it's right up to the point that you pull the trigger and use it. Then it'll be your fault if it goes wrong again because your BB's are the wrong shade of white.

Warranty on the repair or for the gun itself? I'm guessing this is a leading question so come on, what's happened?

A wet paper bag is better than a Nuprol case. No direct experience but those Parra ones look pretty good. Cheaper than a Peli too which is always nice!

Personally, I'd go with rub it down first, plastic primer and/or adhesion promoter, colour, matt clear. Or just buy a metal one the right colour.

New patch!

It's what I have for my gun rack!

I'd say you're fine on the colours. Rangers were wearing 3 colour DCU with choc chip helmet covers which is what you have.

Have a look at Gridwall sections on ebay. You'll be able to more easily get hold of fittings for them and they'll be a lot sturdier than that B&Q stuff.

What's your budget? Two point, I'd suggest either the Ferro Slingster or the T-Rex one, for a single point you can't really go wrong with a Magpul MS3 or MS4 (depending on your preferred attachment points) both of which can also double up as a 2 point. Alternatively you could get a sling catch: http://madbull.com/catalog/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/t/a/tactical_sling_catch-12.jpg That's the Madbul Strike Systems licenced one, but FMA also do them in both plastic and metal versions.

The maximum internal temperature for a MOSFET diode is around 175 deg C. If they're saying it's 503 deg C then it should be completely crispy, probably along with the rest of your gun. MOSFETs have a negative temperature co-efficient so as the temperature goes up, the current throughput drops. It's what makes them immune to thermal runaway (a standard transistor has a positive temperature co-efficient so they pass more current when they get hot, which makes them hotter, which passes more current etc etc until it explodes) so if your MOSFET actually DID hit 500+ deg C then it wouldn't be passing over 100 A. Either the Jefftron is fucked or the firmware is bollocksed. Personally I'd say it's the firmware update.

I'm going to go ahead and call bullshit on them for that. Max temperature for a MOSFET is around 175 degC. As for getting over 100A through one? Nah.

Is this not how the A&K ones work then?

TaiwanGun are fine, UPS however...not so much. As TG are still insisting on using UPS I'd steer clear for a while yet.

A rail mount torch will fit on the rail sections at the front end of the handguard, if that places it too far forward to reach the controls then a remote tape switch could be fitted to the top rail or (less ideal) you could fit and offset mount to let you attach the torch further back but still place it to the side.

I remember having a discussion with someone at work about anxiety/depression meds and they said that I didn't seem like the sort of person that would need them. "Well that just proves they work then, doesn't it!" I said!

Unfortunately that kind of tool storage IS just expensive. Have a look on ebay for a secondhand workshop cabinet, get some pegboard and off you go! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Steel-Filing-Storage-Workshop-Garage-Stable-Cabinet-Cupboard/224431237990?hash=item344124eb66:g:hqYAAOSwq3pgfWvg https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/Garage-Tool-Cabinets/179444/bn_2326654

Absolutely, it's splitting hairs on exactly why it's so terribad! I love my EBR but this just made me do a sick in my mouth.

Trust me, with the weight distribution of those things you could have a good, solid grip on the foregrip and there'd still be PLENTY of weight to secure your elbow in the cup. I cannot overstate just how immensely unbalanced the airsoft EBRs are!

If you want it in your house, a steel cabinet is not going to be discreet! In your garage, fine but that brings up a whole other raft of security issues. I'd look at getting a cheap(ish) wardrobe that matches your decor and fitting some peg boards or mesh wall inside the back of it (take the hanging rail out).

Have you ever used an EBR? ALL the weight on those things is up front! Two of them doubly so!

As someone on "proper" meds for anxiety I echo @Druid799's sentiments entirely. As for this place, know that our prickly demeanour and intimidating scowls come from a place of love. Well, mostly.

I would expect the problem to be more consistent - generally low FPS. If the hop rubber was torn I'd expect more shots to be all over the place. I'm wondering if the hop unit to gearbox joint isn't holding steady, check you've still got the spring on the front end of the hop unit (possibly over the outside of the inner barrel). Chrono wise, Xcortech ones are the usual go to, I have an X3200 but make sure you get a legit one. As with all things airsoft there's knock off ones about that are just paperweights.

It's not a definite that modding the arm would be a problem, it's just that you might be changing the wrong thing to fix the problem you have an inadvertently add another problem! Do you have a chrono? Might be worth seeing if the shots that drop are coming out at significantly lower FPS in which case it may be that the hop isn't sealing brilliantly or there might be an air seal issue in the gearbox, though to be fair I would expect that to be more consistent.