Lozart

50 shades of RAL7008! If you want an EXACT colour match, you'll need to go get it colour matched somewhere that does custom rattle cans. (to be honest I can't even see the scratch!)

I'm not sure there's anything actually "affordable" when it comes to thermals.

You can get a matching pack for that https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/650507292/cockcam-pecker-pack-minimap?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=wsf&ref=sr_gallery-1-17

Ignore me, my google fu is weak and unsophisticated

As a former custom painter, he's right. Sort of. The compressor will always create condensation because of humidity in the air, as the air direct from a compressor (and to an extent from its attached reservoir) is still warm from being compressed, moisture can be retained for a while before dropping out even with a moisture trap if it's mounted too close to the compressor. By extending the hose you increase the cooling time for the air so the dewpoint changes and more moisture drops out of suspension. THEN you put an extra trap on the far end of your airline to catch those (bigger) drops or even put one on the feed to your airbrush like this: Which is how I ran all of mine (although I had a QD fitting on the bottom too). This is the compressor I used to use by the way: PROPERLY quiet. I used it in the spare bedroom of a terraced house built in the 60's (from cardboard and spit) and never had any complaints.

Well, every day is a school day!

Interesting, yes. Also complicated and proprietary. Lots of innovative features but the "quick change mosfet" suggests they think it might be a consumable part! I like that it does stop on empty with regular mags but I can see the optical sensor failing and causing problems.

Can't view the video for some reason, but if the nozzle doesn't get all the way to the left there then it's not actually mating up with the hop rubber so a good chunk of your air is going down the feed tube. I'd take the hop unit out and see if the nozzle stops in the same place or goes out further. That will isolate the cause to inside the gearbox (eg tappet plate not returning properly) or outside the gearbox (eg hop misaligned and jamming the nozzle).

No. That's where you're losing your air pressure.

OK, so the rig is missing the back strap, without which it will be pretty useless. As he mentions in the listing you can buy the strap separately - Tactical kit currently have it for £12.99 plus shipping which comes to a total of £16.74. If you add that on then you'd be paying £191.75 for a second hand chest rig you can in fact buy new (and complete) from Tactical Kit for £195 plus shipping.

Use the classifieds section. That's what it's for.

From the Access Self Storage Ts&Cs: I reckon those in bold would give them just cause to say no to RIFs, HPA kit (if pressurised) and gas guns.

I used to do Pull the Plug back when I was doing the band thing!

Well....properly fallen down the old school death metal rabbit hole. So come join me in bleeding ear joy! yeah, I know it's a cover but it's still the best version for me!

It says it's a rotary hop unit right in the description. The table on the right has a picture of a hop unit and says "YES" as in "yes, it has a hop unit" not, "yes, it has a hop unit and this generic graphic of an old style one is exactly what it has, just like the graphic we put on literally every listing of a gun with a hop unit".

Slight tangent but does anyone know much about vintage/antique watches? I've recently inherited a couple of JW Benson pieces, one pocket watch and a wristwatch and was wondering if there's a way of dating them? Neither are for sale for sentimental reasons but it would be nice to know what they are and how best to look after them. The pocket watch is quite tarnished but is silver from what I can work out, the wristwatch used to be my Dad's daily wear watch so it's well used.

Mostly just vibing with old CoB stuff today.

Not very. Like he said

No, they're not accurate enough. If you could get all the solder off and use solder paste to put the new one on then maybe but I doubt you'd be able to do it without either detaching other components or cooking the PCB.

In case you're not aware - those look like surface mount components so you'll need to make sure you have a very fine point on your soldering iron and that you have temperature control on it!

What brand of lenses are you using? WHile it may be that the optician hasn't got the right fit for you it may just be down to the quality of the lens (I use Acuvue Oasys and have no issues with watery eyes at all) In other words, just these ones: https://www.safetyspecs.co.uk/select-by-impact-resistance/en166b-safety-goggles

That's a U94 style plug. The bit that makes a difference is if it's wired to civilian or NATO standard. Chances are that it'll work with all the Z-Tac PTTs but wouldn't work with an Earmor one for example.

They are rebadging slightly better stuff these days but I would still go for Mechanix over them every day mostly because Mechanix gloves actually fit me properly. Pretty much every other manufacturer I've tried has either had fingers too long or the thumb is a weird size.

Sorry, no idea. I just went to stlfinder and searched for airsoft shotgun shell!

Their own conversion table says: Calibre ~ mm Calibre ~ inches Wool Mop & Nylon Brushes Brass & Bronze Brushes Tornado Spiral Brushes 4.5mm .17, .177, 6 Flobert 6.50mm 5.2mm ❌ 5.5mm-5.6mm-5.56mm .222, .223 8.00mm 6.50mm 5.70mm 6mm-6.35mm-6.5mm .243 8.50mm 7.30mm 6.50mm 7mm-7.5mm 7RM, .270 10.00mm 8.20mm 7.20mm 7.62mm-7.65mm .30, .300, 30-06, .308 11.00mm 8.50mm 7.90mm 8mm .32 11.00mm 9.20mm 8.15mm 9mm-9.3mm .38, .338, .357, .375 12.00mm 10.50mm 9.00mm 10mm .40 13.00mm 12.00mm 10.30mm 12mm .44, .45, .470 15.00mm 13.00mm 12.00mm 12.7mm .50 16.00mm 14.00mm ❌ 14mm .55 17.00mm 15.00mm 13.80mm TOLERANCES +/- 1.0mm +/- 0.5mm +/- 0.2mm So yeah, the 0.243" calibre mop will be fine. Not sure you'll need a nylon brush unless your barrels are getting particularly shitty.