Lozart

I like you, you're funny. DCA custom shop stuff is expensive and stays that way.

Ta-dah! https://www.tacticalgeartrade.co.uk/flyye-industries/flyye-tactical-vest/flyye-1000d-molle-force-recon-ciras-vest-ver-mar-multicam.html

I've got three and I'm still upset I missed it.

Worst is pretty easy - Socom Gear M9A1. Rattled like a bag of spanners, mostly vented gas at random points through any given mag. No discernable accuracy. Looked nice though. Best for out of the box range and accuracy has been my Cyma M14 SOCOM. Whether it stays that way remains to be seen, repairs are underway after my tactical tumble. Overall best though is probably my Specna SA-A03. Bought it bloody ages ago when SA were a new thing and still OEM'd by E&C. It has one of the old red Maxx hop units with the tracer bits, ML rubber and a ZCi barrel, and a Gate Titan with an Ultimate Infinity 30k motor. Anything else is cosmetic but it's been ridiculously reliable, decent range and good accuracy.

OK, yes I was a little simplistic there but to be brutally honest, once you get over about 200mm (ish) barrel length doesn't make that much difference for something like an M4. 10" is a good sweet spot in that it's long enough to be reasonably accurate but not so long as to be cumbersome. 5" will likely suffer from the Stormtrooper effect (where you'll hit literally everything around what you're trying to hit but not the actual target) unless you're doing super close CQB type games. In terms of power difference, you'll probably notice more of an issue if you went from a full length 14.5" (363mm inner) right down to a 5" (pointless inner) than between a 7 and a 10 for example. As long as you're not hugely over or under voluming (ie matching the cylinder type to your barrel length) you'll be fine. Main things to be thinking about is the quality of the bore in your inner barrel and the consistency of your hop unit/nub/bucking combination.

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Yes You're welcome. Loz

If you look at where the adjusters are it looks like it's the outer cover that's wonky. Sight itself seems to be sat properly.

Pretty sure the only people still selling the old school CA stuff are in HK. Not sure CA even make that much old school stuff any more.

Any particular reason why you want to change it?

Short stroking a DMR? No.

Sounds like it might but I couldn't say for certain.

*ahem* Obligatory post of the thread of all threads

This is about the closest I've seen: https://www.evike.com/products/27400/ The original is the Strike Industries AR Enhanced Castle Nut & Extended End Plate for reference.

Cheers dude, just found them at KoA!

Where did you manage to get the Lonex helical gearset from? They seem to be like the proverbial rocking horse poo!

Hate to say it but it's probably both. Gas efficiency on the 1911 isn't great, coupled with the small mag means that when it gets in any way cold they can struggle. There's things you can do like high flow valves, aftermarket gas routers etc etc but it depends how much more you want to spend on a gun that's not great to start with.

The gun is not a Hi Capa, it's a 1911 with a fancy slide.

No, there's no way to rotate the reticule on these sights. If it's off, send it back.

Might just give that a try!

Your contract of sale is with the retailer, if there is a warranty issue and the manufacturer has authorised that retailer to act on their behalf then yes. If not the retailer will have to operate under the conditions of the warranty as stated by the manufacturer. If that warranty states that the warranty is void if anyone not authorised by them to work on their products opens the guns up then they are supposed to send it back.

There's a few but the question is whether or not you trust them to do that for you. It'll void any sort of warranty the manufacturer has straight off the bat for one.

Seems I may have answered my own question! I'm going to leave this thread up though as it may help others; scopecalc.com lets you put in your scopes info and then maps out the brightness etc using flash player (so you'll need an emulator but there's some good plugins around for chrome). Basically it would seem that at any magnification I'm likely to use the two perform pretty much the same in terms of light transmission and usable image but (as suspected) the one with the larger objective gives a better size of image. Pics below for the rest of the nerds here! linky to calculator