Lozart

Might just give that a try!

Your contract of sale is with the retailer, if there is a warranty issue and the manufacturer has authorised that retailer to act on their behalf then yes. If not the retailer will have to operate under the conditions of the warranty as stated by the manufacturer. If that warranty states that the warranty is void if anyone not authorised by them to work on their products opens the guns up then they are supposed to send it back.

There's a few but the question is whether or not you trust them to do that for you. It'll void any sort of warranty the manufacturer has straight off the bat for one.

Seems I may have answered my own question! I'm going to leave this thread up though as it may help others; scopecalc.com lets you put in your scopes info and then maps out the brightness etc using flash player (so you'll need an emulator but there's some good plugins around for chrome). Basically it would seem that at any magnification I'm likely to use the two perform pretty much the same in terms of light transmission and usable image but (as suspected) the one with the larger objective gives a better size of image. Pics below for the rest of the nerds here! linky to calculator

As some of you will know I drop tested my M14 and royally borked my scope. The one I had isn't sold anymore (Victoptics 1-4x24 First Focal Plane) and its nearest equivalent is way more than I paid for mine in the first place (inflation, eh? What ya gonna do? etc). So that has led me into a bit of a rabbit warren of technical nerdery looking at similar scopes that fit my current budget (around £100 ish and no, I'm not looking for "buy a Visionking they am bestest" as a response). The bit I'm confounded by is when I start getting into eye relief, exit pupil, twilight factor and relative brightness; one scope I've seen is 1-6x24 and has a TF of 12 and RB of 16 at max magnification, the other is 1-4x20 and has a TF of 9 and an RB of 25 at max. Now, the thing is that in both cases the bigger the number is, the better the image will be but as the two scopes are the opposite way around on both, which is better - a higher twilight factor (given that I mostly play woodland and even on a bright day tree cover reduces the light level somewhat) or better relative brightness? I've usually gone down the route that a bigger objective is always better but it's the smaller one that seems to have a brighter image in this case. Anyone have any insight?

I have a TLBV-E in my collection of manky old kit. While the mag pouches will fit two STANAG mags, most PMAG types are so snug as to make it almost pointless plus the baseplates effectively prevent any double stacking in the top two pouches (same goes for STANAGs with Magpuls). The cord locks on the stringy side pieces are also about as much use as a chocolate fireguard and break quite easily (spares can be found in the dark recesses of ebay if you look carefully though). Highly advise either tying the cords in a knot under the lock or taping them up.

HPA cycles faster IF you set it up to do that. I've also seen plenty of high ROF guns with batteries. If the BBs are flying faster then it's more likely that whoever was firing them was using heavier ammo (it retains more energy for longer), that doesn't automatically mean that the FPS was too high. Some of my guns do 1J, some of them do more (most of them are around 1.1ish, my DMR does around 1.5J). You missed the point though - 1J is 1J regardless of whether it's an AEG, HPA, GBB or a springer. The issue is NOT the system but the user and the people that police those rules at the site. You're right, you shouldn't have to find a different site but if that specific site attracts the type of player that is going to repeatedly cheat and the marshals aren't addressing it then you have two choices, put up with it or go elsewhere. Like the man said, nut up or shut up.

Came here to say this!

It's not the HPA, it's the player and more importantly the site staff and enforcement of the rules. HPA at 1.2 Joules is no different than spring or AEG at 1.2 Joules, the BB doesn't know or care what system is providing the motive power. Find somewhere else to play.

You may find that the "sniper style" grip on those is a bit rubbish. They don't line the motor up very well.

My two cents - genuine EoTech sights are expensive by nature because of how they work. None of the copies work the same way as mentioned above and are basically reflex sights so need a mirrored lens. The biggest issue is that the cheaper ones tend to be more heavily mirrored which makes them harder to see through in low light. Halfway decent ones however are "good enough" for airsoft unless you're in a particularly dark CQB environment and then there's plenty of other red dots that will do the job. As for saying that they're all shit or that only Holy Warrior are any good is subjective at best and disingenuous at worst. I've had a cheap chinese knock off for years that's absolutely fine (which I used to use at The Mall to no detriment), the Sotac ones are fine too.

I have done, bear in mind that you'll be paying their shipping rates on top of the sellers domestic rates, plus import duty etc. Sometimes it's cheaper but I usually only do it if there's something I want and the seller won't ship to the UK (nothing ITAR restricted though, you still won't get that out).

Gotcha!

Went to Red Alert on Sunday. Mostly good except that my M4 failed chrono because the spring I fitted was a touch over and, well...this happened: Chilli for lunch though so that was nice!

This is the one you want to use for CQB right? It's pretty much spot on 340FPS/1.08J. I'd leave it alone!

Get sacked?

Why not both?

What he said. Unfortunately, the original gun finish is unlikely to be easily replicated with a rattle can. Do you have any pics of the patches you want to cover?

Black or tan? Bear in mind that if it's been used, chances are that the colour it was when it left the factory isn't the colour it is now. You might be better off finding an automotive paint matching service and have the paint made or just respray it whatever colour you desire from scratch.

Gotcha, you could absolutely lose the suppressor and use a barrel extension as you suggest but if you're dead set on having the look of the ARP9 then yeah, shorten the barrel. You may need to bump up the spring but I'd try swapping the barrel out first and see if it actually makes for much of a power loss.

OK, I'd ask myself why the last owner felt the need to extend the barrel. Have you actually run it in a game as is?

What's your budget? Most Revision or ESS goggles take their Rx inserts (proprietary to each manufacturer). I think Bolle do too.

To a point. Once you get below 200mm it can start having an effect. To be fair, at CQB distances it's less of a problem but for example my MP5K is far less accurate than my MP5A3 both have the same hop rubber and similar quality of barrel. Personally, if your looking to modify the sa-e07 you have in your profile description I'd just swap out the handguard for something shorter and ditch the extra length of the amplifier etc. 200mm is plenty short for CQB.

At 200mm it's already a good length for CQB. Going that short you're more likely to notice the complete lack of accuracy than a drop in FPS!