Lozart

Chances are that whoever converted it has just taken off the fire selector knob to "lock it to semi". If that's the case then if you take the upper out there should be a white plastic linkage that goes around the back of the gearbox: the sprung lever on the left is what controls semi and auto and if the spring is on there it should default to semi. The position in the pic above is auto, stick a battery on, hold it in that position and fire a burst. That should unlock it.

It works on the hop rubber if you have a particularly high FPS build (sniper rifles and the like) but not where most people use it - in lieu of replacing a cylinder head o-ring.

Nice, welcome to the achey arms club!

Do you want something "airsoft" or something legit? Either way they are quite spendy for what they are, plenty of Chinese clones about that will adequately do the job for airsoft, personally I have the OPS/UR-Tactical laser cut belt which works well (except it's an older design with the hooky bit on the inner belt). The Deadly Customs ones are decent and come in two different sizes (2" and 1.75") and they will provide the kydex pouches too if that is your desire. As for legit stuff - pick your price and pay the money. All of them will be WAY more than you need for airsoft and are priced accordingly.

Spoken like a true M60 gunner!

Looks like you'll be ordering from China! https://airsoft.tiger111hk.com/p19146/CYMA-Adjustable-Tactical-Stock-For-MP5-Black/product_info.html

Absolute bare minimum? Glue the rail back down and get a proper receiver pin for the back end. Then power it up and see if it still functions Hop unit is buggered, to replace it with something half decent will need a new lower receiver as well as an upper (they usually come as a set anyway) or if you just want to resurrect it "as is" I probably have one of the old plastic ones kicking about somewhere. I may even still have a plastic receiver set.

I'll have to dig it out but it's one of these:

Unfortunately this is literally a Maxx hop unit in a pretty frock with a prefitted R-hop. The ad isn't really Macks worthy to me though, because it IS an expensive product. It's just that the product itself is a bit of a rip off to start with.

You'll want to post them in the Classifieds section, but you will most likely need to meet a minimum post count before you'll be allowed to.

If you're on that there Facebook, come join the Airsoft M14 group. I have a Cyma railed sight mount going spare if it's any good for you, as far as low profile mounts go, about the only easy(ish) to get hold of ones are the G&P copies of the ARMS #18 mount, but even then you'll be buying from China if you can find stock. You'll no doubt be totally unsurprised that this question has been asked before! I have this one on my Cyma M14, Seal Airsoft are pretty reliable and they seem to have them in stock too. http://sealairsoft.com/pro_details.php?product_id=861&fbclid=IwAR2IZfWygMy8FYPdkTSRDcy0ULh0HV_NxkGobiNBz41pYlVhZMWEns9o1ng

You absolutely can, but that specific "special edition" of the Maxx hop unit and a barrel, from Umbrella really does cost 220EUR new (which is an absolute piss take, granted, but it is what it is).

They manufacture air-guns, they import airsoft guns. All the Umarex products for airsoft are licenced replicas made by others (VFC and Cyma for example).

That's what she said! Also - the safety should block the trigger.

Nice work dude.

Of course they would. Are you new here or something?

*First of all; brands to buy and brands to avoid, for both batteries and charger? Turnigy are good for both, Nuprol are shit for both (well...pretty much everything in fact) *I see that some come with Deans connectors and some with Mini Tamiya - are the Tamiya ones ok to use or do I have to rewire all of my AEGs? Or use Deans to Tamiya adaptors? Mini Tamiya are perfectly serviceable, Deans are in theory better but it does depend on the quality of the ones you buy and someone will be along in a minute to tell us all that XT60 are in fact God Tier and everyone should have them. *Is the risk of fire and/or catastrophic failure exaggerated under normal/sensible use? Do I really have to keep them in an asbestos bin at the bottom of the garden? Be sensible, use a decent charger and keep them in a LiPo bag. Catastrophic failure is almost always a result of neglect or abuse. Puffing batteries is something to watch out for but if you follow the earlier points then you should be fine. If you notice any getting physically damaged or puffing up then just get rid and replace them, they're really not expensive. *Most of the impetus behind this is that I'd like to be able to get a full day out of one set of batteries (at the moment I'm only getting a bit more than half a day out of stock NiMhs), is this realistic? Entirely depends on how much battery space you have and your playing style. That said, the stock NiMhs that come with guns are almost entirely dogshit. *So far all internals for my AEGs are stock, so I was going to go with 7.4v, perhaps upgrading to 11.1v if I upgrade gun internals later on - is this sensible? Most modern AEGs are fine with 11.1v but lifespan may suffer a bit if you're particularly ham fisted. Older guns would be better on 7.4 until you can beef them up *Any reason not to get the biggest/highest mAh I can fit into the gun? Not really. *Anything else I should know getting into this? Always check the sizes of where you plan to put your battery in your gun BEFORE buying the battery. Just because the website says it'll fit in an M4 stock tube, doesn't mean it'll always fit YOUR M4 stock tube.

Fair do's. Septics seem to be more than happy to pay nasally for HK stuff just so they can "flex on the poors".

Shame they're not relaunching the old Hensoldt type mounts. HKParts have them in stock, I'm assuming you may have ways around ITAR? https://hkparts.net/product/hk-mp5-a2-fixed-stock-german-p169.htm/

FMA by a country mile. I have the FMA one and a good friend has the Emerson. The Emerson one was so uncomfortable that he ended up buying the FMA suspension system separately (because you can) and fitted that to it. As for how long you wear it - YMMV but I have mine on pretty much all day when I do wear it. It also has my comms and goggles mounted to it. Granted the weight is the main consideration but the FMA really doesn't weigh much more (if at all) but the fit IS important. If it's too tight anywhere or the shape of it simply doesn't work with your head then how much it does or doesn't weigh is largely irrelevant.

1.26" https://geissele.com/13-5-super-modular-rail-mk16-m-lokr-ddc.html#:~:text=The Geissele Super Modular Rail,maintain%2C but offers superior rigidity.

If you open up the end of your stock, you should see a screw head down the bottom. That screw is what holds the stock and stock tube on. If you buy a solid stock it should come with a new screw (as it will be considerably longer. You may need a sling plate to fit in the gap as solid stocks often have a little step cut out of the top where it meets the back of the receiver (again, if you pick your stock carefully it may not need that or indeed come with it).

100 players in a shopping mall generates a lot of BBs. You don't need a "pool" of them to slip on.

I wouldn't personally try that with an airsoft kit unless it's a CNC one. The cast monkey metal ones will just crack. Something else to bear in mind is that real pistols like Glocks and 1911s are built fairly loose themselves. Might be worth asking yourself why you think making the slide fit on tighter would in any way improve the pistol before you go ahead and do it.

Consider a helmet (head shots at close range SUCK), maybe a plate carrier instead of a chest rig and definitely a decent facemask. Footwear wise I'd say swap out para boots for a decent set of SWAT/Police type boots (Magnums, Merrell Tactical, that sort of thing); you still want grip so a softer sole makes sense but you don't want to be sliding about on BBs so a decent tread pattern helps, plus ankle support. The walk to respawn will be shorter so you won't need to take the kitchen sink everywhere with you but you may find you end up spamming through WAY more ammo so if anything you might need more mags not less (depending on your gun and how good a shot you are). The length of gun thing is a constant source of argument. I fall in the camp that you just need to learn to maneuvre your weapon, others are all for tiny little barrels (but they often wear lycra and carry big bottles of air about). It kind of depends on the site and how tight it is to move about - I saw an M14 SOCOM used at The Mall way back when (I used an M249 there myself) but it was open enough to not be an issue. I was using MP5s at the weekend and while my MP5K is super easy to move around barriers with, it's not exactly the most accurate thing in the world if the site has anything over a few metres away to shoot at (having a 110mm inner barrel). That said, the lighter the gun, the less quickly you'll tire out because you'll probably be running about more. The main thing is that play should be more dynamic and will certainly require move positive action on the part of the players. One of my pet hates at The Mall was people stacking up on doorways with nobody wanting to be the first man in. Many was the time one or two of us would follow a bang into a room only to find ourselves totally outnumbered because all the rentals were still stood outside. You WILL experience worse hit taking, shorter tempers and overkilling. But you might also have the best day of airsoft ever. CQB has always been very hit or miss for me, the good days are epic, the bad ones are horrible. Oh, and make sure you take PLENTY of water and a towel. You WILL sweat more.