Lozart

Pretty sure that neither of them have any reinforcement around the slide stop area zoom in on the two listings here: https://eagle6.co.uk/shop/catalog/product/view/id/1573/s/tokyo-marui-p226-r-top-slide-for-p226-gas-blowback-pistol-series/ https://eagle6.co.uk/shop/catalog/product/view/id/2801/s/tokyo-marui-p226e2-top-slide-for-p226-gas-blowback-pistol-series/ Without having either in front of me I'd have to defer to knowledge of current owners, there is always the option of an aftermarket slide/slide and frame kit. The E2 model was "better" because the mags were improved and it had better gas efficiency. Much like yourself I prefer the size of the P226R, standard practice is to run them on E2 mags.

About this big: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons-heads/piston-head-o-ring-viton

The wiggly lines on the side look very much like Bolle to me

BA-dum-TISH!

50 shades of RAL7008! If you want an EXACT colour match, you'll need to go get it colour matched somewhere that does custom rattle cans. (to be honest I can't even see the scratch!)

I'm not sure there's anything actually "affordable" when it comes to thermals.

You can get a matching pack for that https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/650507292/cockcam-pecker-pack-minimap?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=wsf&ref=sr_gallery-1-17

Ignore me, my google fu is weak and unsophisticated

As a former custom painter, he's right. Sort of. The compressor will always create condensation because of humidity in the air, as the air direct from a compressor (and to an extent from its attached reservoir) is still warm from being compressed, moisture can be retained for a while before dropping out even with a moisture trap if it's mounted too close to the compressor. By extending the hose you increase the cooling time for the air so the dewpoint changes and more moisture drops out of suspension. THEN you put an extra trap on the far end of your airline to catch those (bigger) drops or even put one on the feed to your airbrush like this: Which is how I ran all of mine (although I had a QD fitting on the bottom too). This is the compressor I used to use by the way: PROPERLY quiet. I used it in the spare bedroom of a terraced house built in the 60's (from cardboard and spit) and never had any complaints.

Well, every day is a school day!

Interesting, yes. Also complicated and proprietary. Lots of innovative features but the "quick change mosfet" suggests they think it might be a consumable part! I like that it does stop on empty with regular mags but I can see the optical sensor failing and causing problems.

Can't view the video for some reason, but if the nozzle doesn't get all the way to the left there then it's not actually mating up with the hop rubber so a good chunk of your air is going down the feed tube. I'd take the hop unit out and see if the nozzle stops in the same place or goes out further. That will isolate the cause to inside the gearbox (eg tappet plate not returning properly) or outside the gearbox (eg hop misaligned and jamming the nozzle).

No. That's where you're losing your air pressure.

OK, so the rig is missing the back strap, without which it will be pretty useless. As he mentions in the listing you can buy the strap separately - Tactical kit currently have it for £12.99 plus shipping which comes to a total of £16.74. If you add that on then you'd be paying £191.75 for a second hand chest rig you can in fact buy new (and complete) from Tactical Kit for £195 plus shipping.

Use the classifieds section. That's what it's for.

From the Access Self Storage Ts&Cs: I reckon those in bold would give them just cause to say no to RIFs, HPA kit (if pressurised) and gas guns.

I used to do Pull the Plug back when I was doing the band thing!

Well....properly fallen down the old school death metal rabbit hole. So come join me in bleeding ear joy! yeah, I know it's a cover but it's still the best version for me!

It says it's a rotary hop unit right in the description. The table on the right has a picture of a hop unit and says "YES" as in "yes, it has a hop unit" not, "yes, it has a hop unit and this generic graphic of an old style one is exactly what it has, just like the graphic we put on literally every listing of a gun with a hop unit".

Slight tangent but does anyone know much about vintage/antique watches? I've recently inherited a couple of JW Benson pieces, one pocket watch and a wristwatch and was wondering if there's a way of dating them? Neither are for sale for sentimental reasons but it would be nice to know what they are and how best to look after them. The pocket watch is quite tarnished but is silver from what I can work out, the wristwatch used to be my Dad's daily wear watch so it's well used.

Mostly just vibing with old CoB stuff today.

Not very. Like he said

No, they're not accurate enough. If you could get all the solder off and use solder paste to put the new one on then maybe but I doubt you'd be able to do it without either detaching other components or cooking the PCB.

In case you're not aware - those look like surface mount components so you'll need to make sure you have a very fine point on your soldering iron and that you have temperature control on it!

What brand of lenses are you using? WHile it may be that the optician hasn't got the right fit for you it may just be down to the quality of the lens (I use Acuvue Oasys and have no issues with watery eyes at all) In other words, just these ones: https://www.safetyspecs.co.uk/select-by-impact-resistance/en166b-safety-goggles