Lozart

It's been a long week.

I'm sure the magpul ones work well but a knock off for £3 will very probably break about as quickly as any other cheap piece of plastic.

what style are they? BDU/CPU/SFU? Sounds like bdu, they're pretty baggy.

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He did say he's an odd shape but yes, I'd try exchanging them for a better cut of trousers. Depends where he bought them I guess.

I don't think there's anything wrong with the M24 at all. There are better people here to advise on sniping and upgrades to be fair, just that I know there's a LOT of upgrades available for the VSR10 platform should you need them. I quite like both and have been considering dipping a toe myself so I'm just as interested in the outcome of your thread!

Firstly hi and welcome. Secondly if this is your first gun I assume you don't have your UKARA registration in place yet so you'll need to have the gun two toned. Thirdly and probably most importantly, don't get a sniper rifle for your first gun. Seriously, buy an AEG run around and hive fun. The general consensus is that sniper rifles are a very good way to spend a lot of money not getting very far. That said, if your heart is set on the long guns then there's PLENTY of aftermarket upgrades around for the VSR/BAR 10.

If this is your first gun I'd leave the DMR thing well alone. Plenty of time later to realise that actually it's a way of taking away the advantage of full auto capability without gaining much range because the FPS limit is not as high as bolt action sniper rifles.

Somethingis worth whatever someone else will pay for it. If that's £50 over retail or £50 under retail it doesn't matter.

Looks about the right price. Great goggles, go for it.

All I will say in response to that is that I used to do this stuff for a living. A FET will improve your trigger response without changing the original wiring but not as much as changing the whole set-up as you rightly say.

I believe the real one isBakelite so not "plastic" as such but yes. Technically it's a thermosetting plastic but not plastic like your one is. Still. Happy painting!

That's....not entirely true. The capacity to switch larger currents is part of what makes the FET useful as it prevents all the current going through the trigger contacts which can then arc and lead to poor switching and conduction but it's also the ramp rate of the FET that makes the trigger response better. You could JUST fit a hardwired FET using all the original wiring and get a much improved trigger response because the FET can go from 0 to full current far quicker than a mechanical switch. Granted if you combine this with better wiring, Deans connectors etc then the trigger response will be better still but don't make the mistake of thinking that's where the greatest benefit in switching speed comes from.

Gotcha. For some reason I thought the heatshield was metal. White primer for brown is fine. Red is better but I don't think you can easily get a red plastic primer.

http://kotaku.com/5931169/just-imagine-the-bugs-you-can-shoot-with-this-starship-troopers-gun/

My thoughts exactly. Although to be fair I also thought "nice soldering" the joints themselves are actually quite tidy!

Get ESS goggles on ebay. V12 Advancers go for about £20-£25 a set.

Following on from that ^^^^ "aggressive stripper" chemicals like Nitromors are fucking horrible and should not be used unless ABSOLUTELY necessary. The two tone paint used on your rifle is most likely Krylon and does NOT need such harsh and dangerous chemicals. If you decide you absolutely MUST use a paint stripper instead of fairy power spray and bit of elbow grease then I suggest you seek out one of the more environmentally non toxic types like Biostrip http://www.biostrip.co.uk/paint-stripping/biostrip-20-paint-stripper-spray.html

What's the plastic primer for? If it's going to be sprayed black you should have got grey plastic primer - might be worth trying to change your order. It's not the end of the world but it will make a difference to the final colour.

Leave it be. Play with it, decide if the shortcomings you find are actually you or the gun and then fix what needs fixing. It's a good gun as is, don't fuck it up by "upgrading".

Depends really. How quickly would you like the paint to fall off? If "in a matter of hours" is your answer then don't bother with primer. The ones on Youtube are most likely painting over plastic with Krylon Fusion. This doesn't need a separate primer because it already contains an adhesion promoter (or primer in laymans terms). If the surface finish on the gun is sound (even if it is blue) then to be fair you could probably get away with just keying that with some red scotchbrite and painting over the top. My issue with that is that whoever 2 toned it wouldn't have done the surface prep properly so it may very well flake off taking your nice new top coat with it. As with many things in life, do it properly - do it once.

Just how bright do they need to be though? My ASG one is plenty bright enough to be seen in normal ambient light (certainly bright enough to give away your position in the dark) I can't honestly see any need for it to be any brighter!

They'll definitely last a full game day maybe more if you remember to turn it off at the end of the day!

This. And not just because he said me. To be fair if you're just looking for a colour change then you're right about rubbing it down first - go for a final finish around 600 grit, superfine sandpaper will be too smooth fop the paint to grip properly. I'd make sure you get all the blue off, down to metal if you can but it's not an absolute must. Then get thee to Halfords and buy some grey primer (you may need to get plastic primer AS WELL not instead of for the plastic parts) and some matt black paint. Primer first then colour but work in light coats. DON'T try and get full coverage in one go or it'll run and look shit. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CAN. If it says allow 30mins between coats then do it. It's not rocket science but if you want a good result, don't rush it. If you want a more "gunmetal" type finish, once it's black grind up some soft pencil lead with some sandpaper and rub it lightly over the black using a bit of cotton wool. You'll get a nice grey, metallic effect. Seal it with some matt clear coat (PlastiKote is good for this).

I'd suggest taking it somewhere else. If the guy said it was fixed last time and it's still exhibiting the same issue then he clearly didn't fix it properly the first time. Initial thoughts personally are - what else has been done to the gun? Is the motor adjusted properly? Has it been shimmed too tight? a 7.4v LiPo shouldn't be drawing so much current as to blow a 25A fuse all the time unless the gearbox/motor isn't standard.