Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies

I think when I look at it Ed's videos are just much better quality than any of the 'big guys' around making vidyas. For once,he knows what he's talking about unlike Levelcap. Levelcap can do good commentary,mainly about the situation in game but he feels like a walking advert for AirsoftGI,added to that he pretty much has no idea what he's talking about gun wise. My opinion on scouthedoggie is neutral. All that editing crap I don;t really care about,Some videos are very good and some are not,it depends on who he is focusing on. The only thing I can really dislike is the sniper videos since watching snipers play for me is boring,especially from a third person view,it's a role more fun to play than watch. Snipers are mostly interesting to watch from their point of view and still requires lots of editing to get rid of bits like waiting for ages for an ambush to start or whatever.

Why would you buy a 2000$ Belgian AK variant in the first place?

Probably asking the impossible,especially for a springer. TM Gspec is good out of the box but only in a country with the 1J limit- Upgrades are needed to bring it up to snuff for use in the UK,for example the hop up does not really like anything heavier than .28s without mods. And the FPS is very low,280 on .20s stock but it's pretty consistant. The low FPS really 'kicks in' when you use .30s or up,it's noticeably worse than with .28s and added to that the stock hop does not lift .30s well past 30m. Another thing,on ALL VSRs and clones is that the stock sear set and piston WILL grenade themselves. It's only a matter of time when. You need to get a new steel sear set and piston with a steel catch for reliable use up to a 120 spring. With a 130 and up bolt pull & return will feel bad with the stock sears and reliability is out the window so you need to cough up for a 90 degree mech and piston. Another thins is that as per usual for TM,prices are inflated outside of Japan,but the VSR 10 pro is often reasonably priced (ProAirsoftSupplies have them for 170 quid which is okay,only 70 quid more than the price w/ out shipping from Echigoya) Chinese clones like the JG BAR 10 which is quite good are hard to come by in the UK and in other shops sell like hotcakes so they are wee bit iffy to get (used market has plenty) If you want a good 'OOTB' springer try find a good pre upgraded one for sale,stock guns always need some work to be usable. If you want a good OOTB usable sniper weapon than the RealSword SVD is your best bet. it could also be better but it's one of if not the best out of the box AEG DMRs,in that it actually performs to meet the standards of a DMR. But,it's VERY expensive because it's full steel and most of it's CNC to boot.

Been to several milsims and never had any of the rank stuff. All we had were Section commanders who mainly handled comms since they had long range radios. How tired you are is entirely up to you. Nobody is really stopping you from buggering off to your tent for some sleep. All milsims depend on who are hosting and of course the people playing- people I've played with generally take it lightheartedly and have some fun but do stick to objectives and keep up the overall flow of the game.

The guns are hard to Identify. We already know the m4 Is a Dboys so that's that- But the L96 could be a WELL or DE,The AK could be a JG,DE or CYMA and the G36C Could be a JG or CYMA - I'd say odds are it's a JG G36C since they are very common guns. Identifying Chinese guns is fairly difficult on looks alone since they all clone the same thing.

The obsession with RPS is mainly linked to obsession with pushing things to the limit and even the previously mentioned being a shit shot,or just feeling like slinging more plastic down range. 40 RPS Is a nice way to get people to take their hits. The main benefit of high speed guns is very fast trigger response. However this highly depends on the build,you can have 10:1 super high speed gears yet only push 28RPS on an 11.1 because you have an ultra slow 28 TPA torque motor and have near PTW quality of response(Especially if you have a hair trigger) Personally I'd let people Use whatever guns they please,even in milsims. I've seen plenty of sights where people with 40RPS monsters walk slowly towards the enemy,suppressing them and wasting massive amounts of ammo only to get killed by one shot. No matter how good the gun is it's useless in the hands on a git who cannot into hittings largest side of barn.

190 on .25s sounds way too low,and you have a tightbore which means that's even worse,tightbores generally increase velocity by a fair bit. Sound like air seal issues. It could be that the tight bore installed was fudged and the hop up rubber is not installed correctly. I'd crack open the hop up to try see if the hop up rubber is in good shape. Airsofters also love to wash things with silicone magic oil,I'd give the rubber a good rinse in some warm water just to get any crap off of it. Wash it in fiary liquid if there is a noticeable deposit of crap on it. Once installing it again wrap the end of the rubber with PTFE tape or better yet,dental floss. If that does not sort out the FPS issues it could be a sleuth of gearbox issues. Once you have the accuracy and air seal issues done ( the most important ones) Then you can move onto gearbox work. If you want high trigger response/high RPS Here's what I'd recommend- Chinese high torque neodymium motor (preferably 20 TPA or more,ZCI,Chaoli and JG make good ones) SHS motors,although at only 16 TPA are also very good and efficient. Low resistance wiring Basic Mosfet- Gate Pico SSR2s are very popular. I however often use ASG 'ultimate' mosfets since they are very easy to come by for me and rather cheap. I ran mine on a 35c 9.9 LiFE with no issues. High speed gears - SHS 13:1 gears and SHS 12:1 gears are good quality. They've improved their machining quality on the latest batches now and no longer have bevel gears that like to grenade themselves. Good shimming- Bad shimming often creates stress & resistance on the gears which you do not want. Make sure Bevel to pinion contact is perfect. May be hard since some V2 guns which house motors in the pistol grips have poor alignment - G&G is an offender on some models on this. Tokyo Marui and ZCI pistol grips give the best motor alignment I've found. AOE correction- This is adding spacers on the cylinder head (Usually sorbothane) to make sure the gear contacts it at 90 degrees to prevent wear. On guns with higher RPS on stronger springs or guns which use higher power batteries like 11.1 lipos this is a 100% required job- My opinion is that manufacturers should be doing this out of the box but whatever. It preserves your piston to a great degree. Also by using sorbo pads to space it out you reduce stress on the gearbox shell. Two birds with one stone. A good website for this sort of stuff is Airsofting Tutorials. Offer well presented advice on how to mod the guns. http://airsofttutorials.com/ When looking for shimming guides search 'bevel to pinion shimming' This is the most efficient way to shim gears as the bevel to pinion contact is the source of 90% of the screech in a gun. Use the google for terms which you might not understand. Or you can buy the right parts and send it to a reputable tech if you are not comfortable doing it yourself just yet.

Results have been inconclusive. Some people have reported very good gains while some have had complete disasters. By the way,the myth of the TK twist only working well at low FPS is a lie. You must have good cylinder - Barrel volume ratio (Read up on volume matching in AEGs) and a very good consistant air outuput for the TK twist to function well according to some techs. Most people trying it out didn't really share the info well too,lots of stuff was very vague. I'd say bite the bullet and try it out if you are willing- Share the results & your set up in detail(Compression quality,cylinder used,hop up setup,etc..) so maybe we can finally get a conclusive result.

GHK G5 kicks like an absolute mule,not a sloppy hard kick either,it was very rapid,hard and crisp. KWA ERG apparently kicks hard too but I doubt it's anywhere near the level of the G5. I can't comment too much since I've only used a G5 and nobody I know owns a KWA ERG,I'm just voicing my doubts that a recoil AEG has near the amount of kick as a GBB with a particularly strong kick.

Wasn't that JUST proven wrong by Qlimax? This crowd...

TM recoils are very fun to use. The recoil is nice and snappy but light,but enough to put you off using standard AEGs. Internally they are sound,a massive improvement over TM's old line,they are pulling m90 springs along with another spring and a 200g recoil weight. gearset is twice as thick as a standard one and the new shell design is nice and beefy which cannot be said for the VFC 417s shell. The new design hop up units are very effective, .28s sail very happily. External quality is on par with VFC. Most airsoft guns all use the standard Zamak-4 metal and it's an M4 so they all feel the same really,feels solid with the heft in all the right places(Unlike some chinese clones,I swear they are mixing in lead to those things!) If you are itching for a 417 Marui are releasing one in about a century.

Know what cover is reliable,know approximate enemy location,and run like hell. The more you move the harder you are to flank and hit. Think up of a pattern of which piece of cover to run to,like a vidya game boss fight if you will. As you run take pot shots at the enemy to pin them down. I think there's a photo of me one handing me vsr and firing at someone while running across a field When being stealthy,always assume enemies are nearby. When you pop out always be ready to fire,never assume friendly fire. I've made this mistake too much. When you see someone when popping out of cover do not pop back and hide,fire at them and move or retreat.

WE Tactical Training Industries. They were one of the distributors for WE for America based in Hong Kong IIRC,they liked to masquerade as WE themselves a lot. Had a falling out with WE Europe who are the newly formed distributor for WE in europe. This thread on Arnies airsoft deals with the issue well. http://arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/212979-wetti-is-divorcing-we-europe-and-its-nasty/

TMs already have steel pinions,and pretty decent ones at that. Standard sintered+machined pinion,just as strong as any old stock pinion. Thing is on TMs is that once you upgrade,you have to upgrade nearly everything and do it very well. Once you replace the zinc sector gear you have to replace the other gears since the steel sector will chew the weaker steel gears up. Then you need to replace the piston since it's ABS and will get wrecked by the steel sector.And you have to do a good job at all that since TM gearboxes have very small margins allowing for error. One cockup and the whole thing grenades itself bit by bit so you have to replace any parts than can be a source of failure and tune everything correctly. That said not all TM parts are bad. Tappet plates are fine,cylinder,cylinder head and nozzle a good quality and seal well,hop up units are well made and Pistol grips give the best motor alignment. ZCI and TM pistol grips are the top choices for 'silent' gearbox build where perfect motor alignment is needed. I've found lots of pistol grips are cast shodilly so the motor alignment is off giving an irremovable screech. TM seem to have improved the quality of the gear sets & pistons on recoil shock guns. The sector is still pot metal and does like to be chewed up under heavy stress but the spur and bevel are partly machined sintered carbon steel which is pretty good,they like to mesh well with other gear sets too. The pistons are much much stronger,and will not fail unless you jam in a very strong spring (m120+ above) or really cock up AOE correction.

Ooh! First WETTI and WE Europe having a fall out and now this! love me some airsoft industry drama!

Didn't you know that modern techno polymer pistol grips enable your clip to carry .50 inch BMG (Baby Mass Gore) calibers while allowing the weapon to be concealed in an average pants pocket?

Nah,there's an Irish sea separating myself and England and I'm not old enough to have me human rights yet so I have not been.

Pure craic man. Objectives are often very long so firefights are often intense moments of waiting followed by all out mayhem that feels like it lasts forever but in reality is just a 10 minute plastic slinging match. Depending on how big the site is you might be doing lots of hiking,but I can guess you're going to the Ground Zero weekender which is more skirmish oriented and less milsim then the stuff I frequent. Weekenders are very tiring so bring lots of food and water. Camping at night depends on the crowd- Two weekenders I've been at have been a mix of music,the occasional bit of drink(Marshals aren't a fan of this because insurance) and just general craic around the fireplace,roasting sausages and doing various things that would leave one very vulnerable for an attack Alcohol is a bad idea,airsoft with a hangover is not entertaining as some of my mates might tell you. Overall,I find weekender very much worth it. Lots of fun and plenty of action.

Pump not moving at all-Must be a jam in the trigger mechanism. Don't force it unless you want to break the trigger which is impossible to find due to no part support. Tariq had this happen to his TM SPAS 12. Pump jammed,forced it,trigger snapped. If it's a jam in the cocking/trigger mechanism then an option is to take it apart and reset everything.

Can you move the pump? does it feel like the piston is not catching? Could be the ever dreaded problem of a dead sear. In that case you may as well part with the shotgun as there is no part support. Disassembly is also a pain. Another issue,which happened to a DE maruzen 870 springer clone I used to have was that shattered BBs made their way into the firing mech which just prevented the piston from moving properly,however I doubt this could happen to a trishot.

VFC clones are better. LCTs really like to come apart at the outer barrel due to grub screws holding it in. Also CYMA don;t clone LCT,only VFC. E&L are the guys who clone LCT. VFC clones all the way man. LCTs look prettier but VFC are much sturdier

Actually- You can get AEGs with Trigger response equal to a Planetary gearbox with the right parts and tuning,and without having them as 50RPS Dual sector gear monsters.Here is one- SHS 13:1 gears and a Chaoli 32 TPA high torque motor. 30 RPS on an 11.1v lipo.Mind you,this is not some uber expensive build. Mainly SHS parts,chinese high torque motor,and some lonex parts. Of course,the planetary gearbox has it's advantages and disadvantages over the traditional AEG,mainly being able to fit it into RS spec receivers properly. However,those things are expensive to machine and hard to test for QC hence another reason of PTW inflation. I personally find PTWs very nice to hold but nowhere near as fun to use and shoot as a recoil shock. Don;t get me wrong,externally they feel very real and reek of quality,especially those with some real steel parts jammed on but they have a small fun factor and performance isn;t anything to rave about. I'd rather have a Marui recoil M4 that may be overly thick and disproportional compared to a PTW but it's much more fun to shoot.

That's a fairly big & difficult task. What tools do you have access to. Mills? CNC mills? lathes? any sort of injection molding or powder metallurgy equipment? Hell,if you have the skill you can even make a mini-foundry and sand cast the thing. Look up some forum threads on how cosplay enthusiasts build replica weapon bodies with various plastics,and how to work with carbon fiber. I'd say carbon fiber is not a very realistic option,that stuff is expensive and hard to work with on an amateur level,AFIAK one guy made a spartan laser replica and had a very good guide on how he made it. Started off as a body of glued ABS reinforced with many many sheets and layers of fiberglass. http://www.therpf.com/f9/redshirt98s-halo-spartan-laser-airsoft-weapon-212510/ What sort of body do you have in mind? CAD drawings or any sort of manufacturing/design drawings are a must. It is not impossible-it has been done before. Just saying it is a very big task to undertake.

seconding Jcheese' suggestion .Its all probably machining fluid & anti oxidization crap left in after the factory. If it is really dirty I'd wash the hop up bucking too. Take the barrel & bucking out of the hop up unit. With the barrel,get some cigarette filters/cloth/whatever and dip it in isopryl alcohol and run it through until clean. Then let it dry and run a dry cloth through it again. For the bucking,add some fairy liquid to a cup of water and drop it in. Leave it for about 10 minutes and let it air dry.