Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies

TM recoils are some of the best 1J guns around,and if you can afford it,get it. It's miles more fun to shoot than a regular AEG. TM have also improved their internal quality a fair bit in comparison the the old AEGs so they should be more reliable and better performing- Their new pistons for example are pretty indestructible unless you miss-time the recoil mech by using an 11.1 lipo on a high speed setup. You can also grab a realsword gun for that- Indestructible internals and they are made out of demilled Norinco guns,1:1 dimensions and great durability. Battery space is the main issue of the guns,but performance wise on 1J they will easily be on the same platform as TM. Not as fun to shoot because no recoil

You can modify the wingun pistols(Which umarex often rebrand-Wingun pistols are re-chambered 4.5 pistols) to have hop up units,well,a primitive fixed hop. It's essentially cutting a window in the barrel and jamming in a contact patch. Guide:http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/DIY-hopup-guide-WINGUN-r-t276812.html Vidya:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igvzibyKW_M

Fair enough. I assumed too much due to the rifle names. Also,why does the CA page has a 'damage' rating? Joule output or just attracting the xbahcks/vidya game crowd?

Ehhh... Both aren't exactly the best around. They were good...3 or 4 years ago. It's a hard choice for me since KWA are a bit wanky gearbox wise,but so is CA. Both have 'meh' hop up units. G&G is usually my pick for a solid rifle for your sort of price range,combat machines mainly.Hop up units on their guns are generally great,I often recommend and use their green rubbers as upgrades. Gearboxes have a few iffy things like copper bushings and the piston heads can be hit or miss,but overall solid and reliable. If you want metal,check out the G&G GC series,though I stress that the regular combat machines have very strong Glassfiber-Nylon bodies that are lighter and even stronger than most of the pot metal used in cheap guns.

Parroting everyone else- warm water and dish soap- I find fairy liquid to work very well. After I soak it in fairy liquid and water I leave it in a separate cup of water to get any stray stuff off,then let it air dry. After cleaning it should be very grippy and rubbing it with your hands should make it squeak. I only clean buckings after a large amount of usage,About 30,000 rounds or more,keep in mind I use a bolt action rifle so with an AEG you can leave an even larger interval like 50,000. i always kill two birds with one stone by taking the opportunity to give the barrel a nice thorough clean and polish while the gun's gutted.

MK3 Capris are sexy cars though,and the since Mk3s are essentially upgrades over the MK2 which was pretty reliable you can expect a good condition Mk3 to be a solid runner. I'd do very dastardly things indeed to get my mitts on one,as did other people since it was the most stolen car of the 80s and 90s in Britain.

Depends on the brand. There's loads of them. Classic Army M24 is a clone of the ye olde PDi M24 that came out in the 90s. It's APS2 based IIRC,however the trigger mechanism is unique unfortunately. Quality wise it's pretty decent,stock internals are pretty crappy as per usual with sniper rifles- Hop up units are usable but need upgrading. Externals are very nice as per usual with Classic Army. Price wise it's not bad either. It's a capable platform,but not the best by any means. PDi make a fair amount of parts for these(They are guys CA copied after all) Snow Wolf make two M24s- One that's VSR based and one APS2 based. The VSR based one has tolerance and dimension issues which means upgrading can be a pain and you might need to replace parts which you usually leave alone,like cylinders. The APS2 based one is a little better in that regard. APSones take APS2 Cylinder internals i.e. piston, spring and spring guide. Other parts such as trigger and cylinders are unique. Hop up units are complete shit on both,need replacement. A&K S24 is probably the best one about. Comes with a 90 degree steel trigger mech stock,which is insane value for money. Piston is machined aluminium and since it's a 90 degree trigger there are no problems about reliability. Spring guide is also made out of steel,as is the cylinder. Trigger and cylinder are VSR-10 compatible,however these are some of the best stock internals around. Hop up units are unique- Off spec to VSR version. However they take VSR 10 rubbers,barrels and hop up arms IIRC. You can modify the units by using spacers made out of brass shim stock to tighten up the tolerances. The whole gun is insane value for money.

HPA has actually advanced a fair bit. the first HPA airsoft guns were fully mechanical,using cam mechanism to move around nozzle and valves,and such. This is just a big simplification btw. Most of the parts were made of cast brass,had LOTS of springs and little fiddly parts. Modern HPA guns,like the Kuba engine,Polarstar fusion engine and other use electrical parts like solenoids and computerized triggers. This allows a greater deal of efficiency and reliability due to less moving parts. If the solenoid/trigger is programmed correctly HPA will always come out at the exact same volume,miles more consistant than a traditional AEG or GBB. Mechanical designs are also about,akin to something out of a GBB. HPA is more expensive because you need a tank and air line,they solenoids they use are also pricey. Polarstars are pricey because everything in CNC milled out of billet aluminium on a low volume production. In comparison a reliable Chinese AEG gearbox costs as little as 20 pounds. The cheapest HPA system is a Kuba system- It's essentially a solenoid,valve and cylinder. You can build one yourself if you have a mill for as little as 80 pounds including a simple trigger boards. The design is fully open source and you can get blueprints for free. The price of a Kuba system made out of 6061 aluminium or so is cheaper than a Lonex drop in gearbox which commonly goes for 90-100 pounds. It;s roughly the same price of a well built gearbox with a mix of SHS and Lonex parts. but,you get far far better reliability and consistency. The base line is that modern HPA powered guns are more reliable,simpler and consistant than an AEG. My knowledge on HPA is only from adventures in the 705th Chairborne ranger division,not near as much as I know about VSRs or AEGs.

http://www.avclub.com/article/pornhub-asks-users-stop-posting-videos-germany-fuc-206708 ''Pornhub asks users to stop posting videos of Germany fcuking Brazil''

I both love and hate talking about the Chinese airsoft industry. Love it because it's just hilariously clusterfucked,and hate it because it's a confusing clusterfcuk!

I forgot to mention one point- Asia electric guns have minor differences between the JG versions and their versions. But otherwise from my chairsofting adventures the gearboxes look identical to JG ones,but there's a massive amount of parts usage inconsistancy between each batch as per usual with our Gommie m8s. I think they could be rebranding Dboys too- Newer Kalash AEGs came with aluminium piston heads and neodymium Chaoli motors which is similar to the stuff you mention. The trades too,Dboys make a KAC PDW with trades IIRC.

Asia electric guns are rebrands of JG apparently,some pictures of their gearboxes on google confirm this. So if it's JG I'd assume it's going to be their standard formula of 'Make everything sh*t except the gearbox' and from my experiences OP is right in that replacing the hop is a good idea. SHS,Lonex,ZCI & G&G units are easy to get and good performers. For a bucking,G&G green rubbers,Lonex 70 degree,firefly,Pdi W hold and Prometheus soft are good options and proven. SHS buckings have apparently increased in quality according to some yanks. You might want to check out a barrel to. As usual,Madbull barrels are a good bet,not the best by any means but cheap and good performance for the price. Stay away from the steel bull since they have some bad QC and machining issues. You can also have a go at polishing the barrel to unfuck some poor finish/machining prevalent. Google should show a few guides. With the gearbox you can get away with regreasing and reshimming,re greasing is important since JG use awful earwax in their guns.

A cotton canvas satchel,with some ''Wentworth Academy'' shit written on it. 10 euro in a Ukrainian second hand shop,which is basically a slavland version of TK max

G&G's gearbox shells are not the strongest about but they are certainly not as split happy as they used to be. Only some rare reports of gearbox splitting on M120 springs jammed in by dumb yanks who know nothing about Piston AOE and sorbo pad reinforcement. G&G have improved a fair bit,it won't break on you.

I worked on a Dboys scar L not long ago. I was not really impressed. Rundown of things I did not like- External quality is trash. The plastic used feels weak,there was an air bubble in the lower receiver. Upper receiver is made from Cheap zamak or some other zinc alloy and feels brittle & overly heavy for it;s size. Internals wise- Gears are good. XYT sets you find in most ACM are rough but strong. Gearbox shell is poorly cast,the alloy is poor and you can see flakes of different shades showing how non homogeneous it is. Piston is crap,Would not last long without AOE Hop up unit- Dboys make some of the worst units around,performance and casting quality-complete arse. Motor is great for custom work since the armature is high torque,though the coils were not well wound. Tappet plate is sh*t Grease used is sh*t Stock shimming is sh*t Air seal parts are useless. Wiring is wank. On the other end G&G CM are better in and out. Their gears are not the strongest,especially compared to ACM but they are partly machined which means they mesh well. Only part of concern is the piston head,G&G are inconsistent on this so it's a bit of a lottery. Otherwise the parts are perfectly fine. Externals are very strong,Glassfiber reinforced Nylon which is stronger than most of the pot metal crap used in airsoft.

That's the ultra leet barack HUSSEIN obama teir delta cag seals navy devgru operator version TM sell,the normal HK416D recoil shock has all the right gubbins.

You can use your MP5k PDW as a secondary with the BAR 10. I'd say go for the BAR. You can check mine own and several other reviews for what you need to upgrade for reliability since the VSR and BAR share the same diseases,aside from the VSR having a better hop up unit. They are also fairly rare,they sell like hotcakes and JG are actually having trouble keeping demand despite that there are several factories churning them out in massive numbers. You know JG have struck a gold mine of a gun when it's outselling the TM which has been out since 2003. I'd also recommend the A&K M24,also getting popular,especially in eastern europe. I've had a peek and a play with a mate's here in Ukraine and I;m really impressed. 90 Degree steel trigger mech stock,steel cylinder,Aluminium piston & a steel spring guide. This is insane value for money and the parts quality is not bad at all,I'm willing to rate them at the same quality as ASPUK/AirsoftProCZ parts. It's reliable out of the box so you can focus more money and effort on the hop up and barrel which,unfortunately are not super good quality. Hop up arm is a bit rough,fair amount of play in the also rough looking chamber. Bucking is mediocre and barrel is standard ACM tripe. JG isn't that much better in all honesty. ehobby asia sell them for 130 dollars. I think if it gains traction it's going to be the next best upgrade platform for sniper rifles and dethrone the venerable BAR 10.

+1 for the TM EG1000,top motor. The armatures on these things are very good quality. They are one of the best motors for 'frankentorque' builds,drop the armature into a neodymium motor can and you will have a highly efficient 22TPA(or more) motor,runs very quietly and low heat output. It already has a great amount of torque stock,which is surprising for a ferrou magnet motor and with neodymium magnets it's full potential can be realized. If TM didn't decide to save pennies by using ferrous magnets it would be one of,if not the best stock motors. There's no motor quite like the Systema magnum. IIRC no non frankentorque custom motors have met this motor performance wise. The only problem is that,even though it's one of the best torque motors,it's still expensive since that margin over Chinese neo motors isn't that big(Although noticeable) If you can find one used,or on sale,or cheaper than usual RRP get it because it's a fantastic motor. G&P m170 has reliability problems I believe, according to a few owners. It likes to burn up it's brushes on 11.1v lipos And performance wise is equal to a 28TPA Chaoli motor you can buy for 20 quid. If you are going to pay a high amount of money for a motor go for the Magnum.

Stock motors often have ferrous magnets placed not very close the the armature along with not very tightly wound wire,with some exceptions like Chinese High torques and Marui motors along with a few other. Aftermarket motors often have neodymium magnets(veeery powerful,most neo motors can support their own weight on a screwdriver) Which are close to the armature to increase power. Coils are tightly wound and the armatures themselves are very powerful. Torque is measured in TPA (Turns per armature) Some stock motors,like Marui ones and chinese high torques have 22TPA armatures and ferrous magnets. Most aftermarket motors have 16TPA. 16TPA is a good balance of speed an toruqe and 22TPA gives amazing trigger response. Generally the higher TPA the faster trigger response you will have but ROF will plummet. I recommend using above 16TPA motors with 13:1 Gearsets for best performance. Good motors I've had experience with are the SHS high torque and the ZCI high torque. SHS has 16TPA while ZCI is 22TPA. Both are made in the same factory IIRC. AK2M4.co.uk is a good site to buy from. A little bit of googleing will find some too.

Bratha. I work on a fair amount of ACM so I am accustomed to hilariously bad casting and tolerance fucks ups,then again even higher end brands sometimes struggle to keep tolerances from batch to batch,probably due to mold changes. Extra material on the mag catch should help,most are made of very cheap and crappy zinc based alloys which wear down,especially with metal mags. a steel catch should help in securing them better. I find the best method is simply some electrical tape around the top of the mag or some soft velcro inside the reciever. Both are tried and proven to work well. No need to go around reinventing the wheel. It;s just a