Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies

Recoil shock internals are not made out of cheese unlike TM's old prolines. As said before,tightbores can give a 40 FPS boost,make sure to get a good one,Madbull is a good bang for buck but PDi is the best made out of all. Laylax is a great choice too. M95 or m100 spring should see you well,and again as previously said ball bearing spring guides are a must since they also give a small boost to spring tension and reduce stress as they keep the spring for twisting. I'd also look into Piston AOE correction just to be on the safe side. Remember it's pulling a 300g recoil weight and spring too. TM recoil pistons are very strong so I wouldn't be too worried. In case you want to get a snappier motor, a good option is to take apart the stock TM Eg1000 and replace the magnets with neodymium ones,or drop the armature into a can from a neodymium motor. Should have insane 22TPA torque and be highly efficient.

Sometimes I take the bus,usually when my dad isn't around. If I get up earlier then usual I go by bike. If my dad's around he gives me a lift but I drive over,I'm a few months away from my provisional and he's been teaching me for a few years now so he say's it's grand. Been driving like that for the past year or so and no issues so far.

TM may have better hop up performance by a large margin but I still see no major benefits. Both have internals made out of cheese. There is 0 parts support bar PDi Piston heads,essentially disposable,breaks,get a new one. Personally I can;t stand disposable guns that I always have to worry about,hence why a ASG/DE trishot is a better option since my euromonies won't take a big hit. I've held a TM M3 and a DE m3. Both feel absolute sh*t quality wise,creaky,cheap plastic,minor wobble all around and both felt like they are about to break If I got to enthusiastic with the pumping. TM shot really well,I'll give it that but it does not ooze or feel quality or reliable. If you want a good performing shotgun with parts support go for Maruzen,A&K or G&P '870 series. These may not have trishot goodness but are a fair step up quality wise over TM trishots and clones.

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) All patches except the Ukrainian flag were 30 UAH,or £1.50. Ukrainian flag cost 70 UAH,or £3.50,made out of rubber and velcro backed hence the price increase.

I think you'd better off with a different role,that of a marksman,as in,a yob with a bolt action or tuned AEG that's a good shot. That said get an affinity for spotting to make up for the fact you can't give suppressing fire. Tune your gun to be as accurate as possible,with accuracy upgrades comes range and squeeze every bit of power you can get,have it shooting right up to the 1J limit. Get good at sneaking through forests too so you can still feel like Solid Sneg

WELL VSR cylinder are very often off spec compared to Tokyo Marui. There can also be tolerance issues with the trigger mech/cylinder alignment too. You have two options: modify cylinder internals to fit or buy a new cylinder. Modding internals: First off,eliminate any problems in the cylinder. Start off with the piston. The catch/end & guide rings are often culprits that cause excessive friction in WELL cylinders. Remove material equally throughout, a lathe and sandpaper would be ideal since it has to be precise and equal removal. Once that is done clean it well,and use a suitable lubricant,Silicone grease is ideal. No spray lubricants will work well. test fitment with and without the O-ring. Should move smoothly with a small bit of resistance,down to your judgement and how you feel it. Did you change the spring guide? if so you must remove some material from the circular base. If should have a bit of movement in the cylinder. Again,lubricate well with a viscous grease. Make sure the trigger box is screwed in completely. Then make sure the spring guide stopper is in securely and flush with the box. Another issue is that the m150 spring is too strong for the stock trigger mech. The 45* mech pushes the piston against the walls and with heavier springs it pushes harder. Also,an M150 will give the gun illegal power output in NI,unless it;s only for target shooting on private property,and it;s still illegal to own but nobody really gives a shit as long as you don;t use it on site or wave it about.

Poundland Uterus installation kit?

Don;t know if you've tried this already,but Marui recoil mags have a switch in the internal mech for 30 round capacity and 90 round capacity. It could be that the switch is not fully pressed/selected and causing issues with the feeding. If you can,try rub the hop up rubber with a cotton bud,if it has any oil on it that could be the cause of the inconsistency. Instead of guessing the problem it's best to settle any sort of variation that may cause it. ...And here I am,guessing. XP. Worst case scenario is something is wrong with the tappet plate or nozzle,a common disease on AEGs. could be the nozzle is not sitting on the tappet correctly or something wrong with the tappet plate itself.

It's firing about 600FPS on .20 and using .66g ceramic ball bearings hopup is a modified R-hop like design that's much shorter than the usual contact patch . It's an interesting build,here's a demo video: Here's the thread. Careful really knows his stuff,he's been building custom VSRs for 10 years or so now. http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/30-project-guns/11500-gunner79-s-mantis-8.html

Rhop is a massive trial and error mod. Install patch,place rubber with internal nub removed,sand down patch until it's flush with barrel. Shoot gun,sand more to even it out. Shoot gun,tune,etc... People have used different materials but the best seems to be Hunterseekr5's (creator's) one,but they are a fair bit pricey IMO. Or you can try out the mod that is the whole concept behind rhop,it's called ghop,which was coined up a few years ago by some guy who calls himself the 'gungineer' in japan. It's much less trial and error work and some people say it's just as good. I'm planning on doing it in the near future. Ghop uses two hop up buckings,both with the internal nub sanded down and cut up to fit the hop up window in the barrel,the equivalent to a contact patch in Rhop. The other is the same as in Rhop,sanded down nub and used as a seal. Ian Gere has a good bit mire experience than me with the A&K SVD and what works well with it,my specialty is in VSRs.

My VSR may have been a lemon,there's a lot to go wrong in powder metallurgy especially with zinc thus causing the failure earlier than it should have. That said the stock vsr will break at the piston and sears,that's a guaranteed fact.It's just a matter of when.

Here's some guns I've had experience with. Might add more,cba at the moment since I'm trying to unfuck the bearings on my bike. Marui- Ak47s. I'd say Reliable. gearbox is low stress so it will last long. It's like big american V8s that put out 200-odd HP. It has potential to have insane power output but it's a nice under powered unit that growls along and gets the job done despite the low power and some questionable internal parts. Only gripe is that the gearset can be a bit crappy at times. Sector gear especially,external air bubbles and overall rough molding. Spur and bevel can be sintered pretty badly too. But otherwise out of the box it should not really fail. Mine was 8 years old and an ex-rental so it has had an insane amount of rounds through. VSR Gspec. Unreliable. Sintered zinc trigger sear and piston sear are not up to the task. The alloy used is good but the material simply does not stand up to the task. Piston is made out of ABS or polycarbonate,and the catch part is not strong enough for a 45 degree mechanism. Design of the 45 degree trigger mech is also stressful and the sears and piston are likely to fail on the stock spring. Mine only lasted about 10,000 rounds. But funnily enough,people have used a lathe to turn back the plastic on the piston catch to a 90 degree one and they are surviving 130 and 140 spring reliably! Shows the wasted potential of the VSR IMO. I have a little review up of the whole thing where I go over this sort of bollocks in more detail. CYMA: CM031- Unreliable. Gears were shimmed improperly. the whole shell was cast off spec leading to bushings sitting crokkedlly and at weird angles causing gears to mesh badly,leading frequent lockup and horrible grinding,gun was literally impossible to shim. Shell had to be completely replaced for reliable working. The aprts were not bad however- Standard chinese gears which handles 140 springs usually,nice piston,air seal parts and hopup. Motor was good too. However when you have a casing cast out of a mold made out of dogshit that all goes to waste. CYMA make nice guns for the price and all but far too often their QC is atrocious. KJW M92f- Unreliable. Heavy zinc slide. Poor sealing of the nozzle and mag gas lips leads to poor efficiency. Could get around 12 shots off at most before venting. Magazine seals poor quality,had to seal them with silicone to stop leaking. Piston head cast badly and sealed poorly with nozzle. Despite all the issues it still worked when I pulled it out but I could never be trustful of it. On Co2 magazines efficiency was improved but no better than a plastic slide marui pistol.

Oily BBs from the mag often cause inconsistent hop,and since the rubber is 'tainted' it needs to be cleaned out. I often heavily advise against putting any sort of oil near your ammo but what have you,we aren't bound by some ancient airsoft tenets. Thankfully we live in a world where we can shaft retailers to our liking. That said,and as said by Jcheese,you paid 500 pounds,your gun should have worked properly out of the box. You shouldn't have had to go about lubricating parts that normally should not be lubricated to get it to work if the gun was in good condition and not a lemon. I don't buy a brand new Mercedes E class and go around pouring oil around interior buttons and switches because they didn't move. Send it back and get a new one.The oily rubber is irrelevant,any tech with half a brain can wash a bucking and the gun is not at a total loss. Their problem now. Personally If I was the shop owner I would have taken the gun as a lemon and gutted it for parts,then sold them at slightly cheaper than what you would pay imported. They'd fly off the shelves,there's a fair market for recoil shock parts since they are not widespread outside of japan.

Accidental post. Internet is buggering up on me. Deleting plos.

Good enough for a Stalker loadout no? Went for something that isn't crappy conscript gear based on 40 year old soviet standards. Total spend of around 620 UAH,which is 38 euro/30 pounds. Quality on this stuff is really good,stitching and threads are strong and the material is tough. it feels far better than the sh*tty Russian & Ukrainian stuff I've been using up until now. Austrian Surplus M65 cut Field Jacket, 18 euro/14 pounds. Only damage is a tiny hole at the front,over the velcro, thankfully sewn up. Patches/Insignia have been removed too. Didn't come with a fleece liner but I already have a decent fleece so it's no big loss. Austrian M65 cut Combat trousers to match,10 euro/8 pounds. Seems to be a factory defect since one pocket was not completely finished but that's a simple fix,otherwise look to be brand new. Ukrainian made(Supposedly) fingerless leather gloves 10euro/8 pounds. These are popular with ukrainian soldiers and a common sight,at least with Internal troops and border guards around where I'm about. Stitching quality is great and they are super comfortable. Probably my favorite purchae since it's the first time I've bought gloves that genuinely feel great. Decided against a gorka suit because the quality was mediocre and it was expensive,at 1200UAH. I prefer the looks of M65 stuff anyway.

''Does not fit A&K version'' Not only that but it looks far from authentic. Ebay might have the A&K made ones you find on ehobby for 80$

Jesus,the G5 must be an absolute whale of a time to shoot with an HPA rig. How's recoil? unchanged or is there a difference from the lack of cooldown and more consistant pressure?

Marui Gspec. 325 +/- 2 FPS with .20, Just about 100m/s,and 1 Joule. With .30s I'm hitting out 280 FPS and 1.6J or so last time I chrono'd. Gun is built for Joule creep out of the box,the VSR cylinder is volumed for a roughly 500mm barrel IIRC and with the 303mm in the Gspec combined with BB retention trait of the VSR bucking,the Gspec produces a lot of joule creep. I can confidently hit anything up to 50m,with a roughly 60cm grouping(number from memory,I forgot to write down the range test results) That's roughly the size of a dustbin lid. Have not tested maximum or extreme range yet since I have not touched my hop up in ages. Range was measured with the google.

Yep,you can get a nice velocity boost is you install a tightbore barrel. Make sure it's a high quality one so the bore quality and consistency is top notch,since with tighter barrels there's a much smaller tolerance for errors in the finish and machining. PDi Raven series are good 6.01 barrels,cheap too. Madbull made good 6.03s but do note there is a big gap in quality.

Using some ex-issue Pro boots. Very comfortable,good ankle support and overall construction quality is good,stitching is strong and overall the boots are well put together. I do recommend insoles since they are pretty hard,despite the soles being a very soft rubber. The offer fantastic grip at the cost of some durability. Mine need to be re-soled but I have given them some very rough use,particularly walking around on sharp rocks. My bike pedals have also given them a good wrecking but they hold. The goretex lining is a nice addition,if you can try get goretex lined boots go for them. Mine have yet to leak even with wrecked soles,very nice lining on them. Take ages to dry but it's not they are going to see daily use. After using Russian made boots before these it feels like walking on clouds. Avoid Russian boots at all costs,they look cool and vintage but quality is atrocious,hence why 90% of the Russian army is wearing civvie hiking boots.

TM recoil internals are best not to be messed with unless you know what you are doing and are prepared to replace a lot of parts. Recoil shock internals are stronger than their old prolines by a fairly large margin. I do have some personal little niggles but I wont vent here. Recoils shocks are really really fun to shoot. The hop up unit design on them is fantastic,out of the box they outshoot most guns. Do not that due to low velocity BB travel time is long,so you will need to practice to 'guide' moving targets to hit them. But I guarantee the recoil will give you as stupid smile every time you shoot,especially when you switch it to 'full retard'

You can pull it off but it'll still look nothing like an Ak12,just a tacticool AK. The receiver is too different,same goes for the dust cover. Gas block,grip,stock are all defining features of the '12 and hard to replicate with 47 and 74 parts. If you have a machine shop it's a different story however There was an airsoft Ak12 at a toy fair in Hong Kong,but it had wrong dimensions and it was made by WELL.