Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies

Silicone oil is good for lubricating Plastic-Rubber contact,like GBB nozzles,preserving rubber seals,like GBB fill valves and preventing oxidization. It's mostly useless on AEG gearboxes since you need more viscous grease,silicone grease for piston guide rails and the O ring,White Lithium for gears and bearings. White lithium spray is handy for lubricating bearings I find Silicone sprays are a waste of money,they often contain petroleum based propellants which ruins rubber,not only that but the oil itself isn't as viscous or long lasting as it is from a dropper. Silicone oil is best bought in dropper bottles,often sold at RC shops as 'Shock oil'.

Really? The two tone kimbers I've seen on several websites all have the thin 1911 style mag. Two tone sites are often shammy- I've now found that there are several guns with the identical name yet some are hicapa clones and some are 1911 clones. Anyway,now that compatibility is sorted I guess it's best to finally source the parts needed for efficiency.

Air bubbles in BBs are generally not a good thing. If the bubble is uneven and inconsistent between BB to BB you can have inconsistent performance since the weight distribution of the BB is uneven so the backspin produced by the hop up can also be uneven. Cheaper ammo often has lots of air bubbles. Excel is a cheap brand,in Japan they cost very little,but on a bang for buck scale they are decent,3700 BBs for 6-7 pounds is fairly good,don;t expect them to outperform all the other brands because muh japan,but they are good.

Laylax M110 Spring, 13 euro,literally just arrived at the local shop. Hopefully bring the gun up right to the legal limit at 328/330. Most sites allow a tolerance and the madbull chronos most palces use always read too low from what I've seen.. I also don't exactly like the quality of the Chinese spring I currently have in mine,whatever finish is on it is very poor,comes off easily and It's covering the internals in whatever powdery shit it's covered in. I do not have faith in it's longetivity either.

My Gspec is massively over volumed,the cylinder is roughly matched,and even still over volumed for a 430mm barrel. I do not experience any noticeable accuracy losses with any weight over .25 The only major effect this has is that the Kinetic energy output with .30s is rather high,touching 1.10J (Borderline illegal in Ireland,but we have the 1J limit unlike the UK) You can keep it as it is and use heavier ammo to counter any accuracy issues that may crop up,it will accelerate slower than lighter rounds so it will have more pressure buildup behind it,so it will hit harder and retain spin from the hop up more efficiently. Use the heaviest weight your hop up unit can lift to your preferable distance. Try get a small sample of .28s or .30s. G&G hop up units are rather good so I'd say those two weights will be ideal. You can also jam in a stronger spring like Jcheese said to bring it up a bit. A 110 should get it to 310 or so assuming good air seal. For an M120 you'd need to correct the AOE for reliability. Anything under a M120 can be rather reliable without AOE corrected from what I've seen.

110mm/11cm is a good bit of a change. You need to match the cylinder volume to the inner barrel volume. What's happening is that not all of the air in the compression zone is used to accelerate the BB because the piston is coming under compression earlier than it should be and the BB is escaping the barrel before it is fully accelerated. If you want the rough velocity of what you used to have match the volume. Here's what you do: Use πr2h to find the volume of the barrel and cylinder. To find the h of the cylinder measure from the port to the top,this is the compression zone. Find the ratio of the two and try get it as close as possible.

Zinc is an absolute bitch of a metal to repair and work with. The best method for repair is the one I posted by using flux and that super alloy 1 stuff they advertise,I'd go to some sort of welding or metalwork shop,maybe even a place specializing in restoring old stuff and ask about repairing zinc.

Korpiklaani - Vakirauta Origa- Inner universe,from Ghost In The Shell Stand alone complex. Korpiklaani-Vesilahden Veräjillä

Cycling and cross country mountain biking. I keep road biking to Ukraine. The roads in some villages near the Karpathian mountains are not at all bad. Bike is my dad's old Custom rig,made with a mix of French,Italian German parts and a custom welded frame. Say what you want about the soviet union but the steel quality is amazing and the welding is pure porn. It survived several cross country trips around europe and sure to survive under me for a while. I plan to eventually ship my MTB to Ukraine and the road bike to Ireland but I'll keep this routine for now. For MTB I have a bog standard Cube Aim 29er, also my main mode of transport if I slap on some carry bags. Nice Taiwanese alu frame and SR suntour shocks that although do not travel near as much as advertised are fairly durable stuff. What I love about it is the shimo gear set and mineral oil brakes,stops on a dime this thing. Once i get into a high gear and down a slight hill I can get into some fairly good speeds especially for a bulky chunker of a bike like the Aim. I'll admit I'm a bit of an irresponsible arse because I wear protective gear under clothes everywhere but my head. Will try force myself to get a good one since there have been too many inattentive pricks nearly hitting me.

Most M16 VNs are assembled in the style of old TM guns. Here is a video on taking down the M733 which is fairly similar to the M16 design wise. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4avuzdCllGM If it is not like that,have you tried removing just the rear pin and swinging the upper receiver by sing the front pin as a pivot? I doubt it's like that since it might be old TM style construction but G&P may have updated the design- I have not worked on G&P M4s yet so I'm not 100% sure. Your gun looks like a G&P m16 to me,judging from the trades. If you get to the gearbox it should be obvious of the brand. To repair cracks on airsoft metal bodies,which 90% are made out of Zamak-4 can be done like so: This method has been done largely by restorers of vintage stuff and even by some people with airsoft guns though results have not been documented. It's a basic mechanical weld that should hold up in the area that cracked,but if it does not work you can source a new body from Hong Kong for a reasonable price,depending on the brand.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jHxVFQQ0j0&feature=kp

It might have the same issue as RealSword guns- The hop up rubber needs 'breaking in' Since the rubber used is very hard and there might be excess rubber left after casting. Solution is to shoot it as much as possible.

Probably catering to the airsoft sniping competitions going on in Hong Kong,Nippon,Taiwan and such,like Mack said. These are definitely not made for skirmishing. But perfect for precision sniping competitions as you can remove any variable from bad ammo to get the best gun possible and thus only be worried about one variable- Your shooting skill. Another option is to use 6mm ceramic ball bearings or even steel ball bearing but those are in the .80 or so region(But ceramics are about .6 something),so .66 is a good enough weight. The price is big but being CNC machined and reusable it sounds like a good option for someone seriously into precision sniping comps,being even more precise than using ceramic ball bearings.

All decent airsoft guns can handle 9.6v NiMH batteries stock,even a TM FAMAS from 1990. 9.6 NiMH batteries give much better ROF and trigger response than 8.4v batteries. Make sure to get a good smart charger as well. You can also go for a LiFE or Lipo battery,7.4v 25c lipo is ideal,Dualsky is a good brand,you can find them in most RC shops. Make sure to get a smart Lipo balance charger too,and do some research on safe Lipo use as they are not as tolerant to abuse as NiMH batteries but the performance gain is so much worth it. Similar with LiFE. Most come in 9.9V,bridging the gap between a 7.4v and 11.1v lipo. They are bit more tolerant to abuse but still require a LiFE balance charger . again,make sure discharge rate is 25c or below since above you will need a MOSFET to protect the gun;s electrics for long term use.

G&P motors are okay but not as good as more modern motors coming out of Hong Kong and China . The SHS High torque motor is more powerful because it has crazy strong magnets and it's built really well. Cheap too and a good bit ahead of G&P in performance.

People love to bang on the call of duty hate train but in game occurrences are ridiculously rare. I only had one rule bending encounter that was rectified quickly at the old place I used to play. Battlefield has taken over as top tog over the schildrens it seems so you get less fishy stuff we like to rag on about. I also have the ArmA senses of calling things out oddly, but I'm trying to get rid of that a bit. It's helpful over crap PMR radio connections however so It comes in handy.

I use good old fashioned ash from the fireplace,I only do it because it makes me look like a hard man. Just two stripes on the cheek enough so I can use my Psyker powers to make the BB go further and for women to be attracted to me.

You can use the SVD as a DMR effectively out of the box but anyone with a well made custom DMR can outperform it. It all depends on how well you play with it,It's very adequate otherwise.You may find trigger response lacking due to a ferrous motor. Expect it to be even stronger(And heavier,and longer ) than a type 56 since the receiver is machined and not stamped meaning it's much thicker and stronger. To make a Type 56 a DMR,i'd do the following (You can do this to an SVD too to even further it's performance) Neodymium magnet motor or drop the realsword motor armature into a neodymium magnet can Low resistance wiring Deans Mosfet AOE corrected,perfect shimming for max trigger response Perfect air seal,seal the cylinder head with silicone, O ring air nozzle and seal the bucking with dental floss Shim the hop up unit arm to get rid of any wobble R-hop,G-hop or Flat hop mod RS type 56s come with M120 spring OOTB IIRC,400 FPS is enough for a DMR I feel but you can jam in a 130 for some extra oomph. The stock 18:1 Gears should be adequate,they are similar to most sintered chinese sets which can take Anything up to an M150 reliably. Add spacers to the tappet cam on the sector gear to pull the tappet plate back more for better feeding. All of this and more can be found in the 'Holy Grail of Airsoft DMRs' thread on airsoftsniperforum.

Any AEG can be a DMR with the right upgrades. RealSword SVD is just unique is that it has really good parts quality and performance out of the box. The hop up units on those things are amazing. I'd put the motor armature into a neodymium can and leave it until it breaks. It's a heavy fucker,full stamped and machined steel. Very long and hard to maneuver. RS type 56 is probably the strongest bastard of a gun in airsoft. Gearbox is very reliable- but proprietary since it's made to fit into a real steel demilled body. Components are good quality,hop up units are great, and RS supply the parts direct at very low prices.

Most white lithium greases about have petroleum based stuff in them which east up rubber,use it only for metal to metal contact like the slide and slide rails,apply it lightly too since it's thick stuff. For silicone oil get pure stuff in a dropper or something,look at RC and hobby shops for 'shock oil' since that is all pure silicone.

That extra 8mm would probably still be in the flash hider which is perfectly fine. Plenty of 300mm barrels around. Also,heavier BBs as suggested by Snuff is simple option,if your hop up unit can lift them,use them. Flight time is slower but the Kinetic energy will be retained better at range so they will fly farther(most noticeable on single shots),and the extra weight means less being knocked about by wind so more accuracy.

You're in the right IMO. I play the sniper role ( Though a fair bit differently than some ) but in Ireland we all have guns firing under 1J so we don;t have MEDs,just a semi only rule for CQC. He should have had an alternate weapon since he had an MED. Going by his logic at that moment everyone who goes past him lower than his MED and does not notice him should take the hit, which sounds silly. If he didn't want an MED he should probably be using a scout bolt action rifle with a lower velocity or something. Personally If I was the sniper I would have fired to a spot where it would hurt less (Boot or webbing) and apologized if it was painful,'Adrenaline got the best of me' if you will and then retreat to a safe MED.Then get me a TM Mk23 for closeup shots and not being a prick.

For accuracy 6.08,6.05,and 6.03 are good. Bore size hardly matters,bore quality and straightness have a much bigger impact. Bore quality since the BB rides the top and any cock ups in milling have a heavy effect,and straightness is needed for obvious reasons. Hence why people like to buy PDi and Laylax barrels since cheap barrels don't have as much tighter tolerances and QC so you do not get a full guarantee of performance,especially true with HK/ACM barrels from ZCI,SHS and the like.

O ring Piston heads help,much better instead of the traditional cup ones. Aluminum slides are lighter than zinc ones so it will help too. I'd personally get a plastic slide,metal 1911s have bad efficiency unless they are co2. You can try use KJW co2 1911 mags but chances are the gun will grenade itself since WE(The OEM,estimating from the website) like to make thing out cheese. Try oil up the slide a bit,using a little bit of white lithium grease. Then use some Pure silicone oil (Preferably not spray type) on the Piston head cup. BTW those kimbers are based on the standard 1911 and not the hicapa. Hicapas have massive mags and are often gas efficient,even with metal slides,internals are a bit different too.

Yes,it will mess with airflow. You will need to recrown the barrel. This video is a good guide. The tool is called a Reamer. Also check out Lonex/ASG ultimate barrels. I've been impressed by the quality. You might be able to find a 292mm barrel as well. PDi barrels,especially tightbores are second to none in quality and their distributor,Xfire,do custom lengths for 10$,using a precision lathe and all that stuff. Personally I would not cut a barrel on anything but a lathe,it needs to be precise to get all the best performance out of it.. Avoid madbull steel barrels for the time being,some very bad machining issues about. Wait until they get their act together. You can improve accuracy with a new hop up nub,improving the air seal,shimming the hop up unit and washing your ammo. New hop up units also help,Tokyo Marui,G&G,SHS and Lonex units are very good quality in particular. Washing BBs does have a good effect,gets all the mold release crap off of it allowing the bucking to grip it better. I'd wash the hop up bucking too, it could still have some mold release crap on it from the factory. I wash all that stuff in fairy liquid.