Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies

Could be grease around the hop up rubber,wash it out and see. Could also be a compression issue,a bad O ring,nozzle,tappet plate return or cylinder head. Diagnosing AEGs is hard for a person used to BASRs like me so I guess gutting it would be a good option. My bet is either on compression or tappet plate not returning the nozzle properly.

Dunno about the modify Torus shell. Looks like a modified copy of the ProWin shells. Bit expensive methinks,if you are going for a pricey shell may as well get a 7075 castnc one.

Lonex/ASG ultimate-Very precisely made. Although it's Zamak It's a strong alloy. Good tolerances,reinforced in the right places and cast well. Very popular shell for it's reasonable price,good construction and strength. It's probably the most popular one I know of locally. You can find them in a lot of UK shops,often rebranded under ASG ULTIMATE who also rebrand a load of Lonex parts.Airlab have them for a good price. http://www.air-lab.co.uk/lonex-gearbox-shell-v2.html SHS/PPS/Super Shooter make 'CastNC' shells which are advertised as CNC machined but in Reality are injection molded and finished with CNC just for looks. Made out of 7075 aluminium which is by itself a fair bit stronger than the Zamak used in a lot of shell,although It's probably not heat treated so It is not as strong as an MThaynes or Cradle shell. Bit pricey though.But good quality and popular. http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/super-shooter-7075-cnc-aluminum-ver-2-gearbox-shell.html#.U0rB7PldVN0 JG shells are also quite strong and very very very cheap.Made of Zamak,but again,a strong alloy. Tolerances might be a bit 'off'(But no where near as bad as some CYMA shells I've seen) and some casting burrs about,there may also be some excess material around where the gears sit. However for the price and the strength you cannot complain. http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?search_From=searchItem&item=JG-M-134&search=special&rs=Jing%20Gong%20gearbox&catid=&cat=&view_choice=c In the future to prevent cracking,RADIUS YOUR CYLINDER WINDOW CORNERS. This reduces a great amount of stress of the front part of the V2. Also,Correct your angle of engagement on the piston with sorbothane pads. Not only will you help reduce shock on the GB shell but you will also prolong the life of your piston. Don;t use metal piston heads too,they offer no real benefits and only add premature wear.

If it's making it over hop use that as an excuse for heavier ammo man! You may notice a big difference in accuracy and effective range going from .25s to .30s for example. Why limit the performance of a gun? Squeeze out as much as you can from the wee git.

Holy sh*t Ian that looks amazing. Looks very authentic,looks far,far better than the awful Chinese Yellow wood. Your job on the bakelite mag is some of the best I've seen too. Can't say much more. It looks like a Real AK. Do you plan on going for a bakelite style paintjob on the pistol grip?

Errr. changed my mind about painting,loving the worn look too much Besides,I always have foliaged taped on all over the bugger in game so painting won't help much. Returned the paint and got an SHS piston sear and a bottle of Blaster .30s instead. Performance > looks strikes again.

Nylon fibre = the clothes you wear. Guns would be very floppy if they were made out of that! Most plastics used are ABS. Some companies like G&G used Nylon fiber reinforced ABS which is more robust than ABS on it's own. Guns like G36s are made using glass filled nylon,but the real deal is amde out of carbon filled nylon. Most metals used a zinc based alloys,some high end aftermarket stuff is made out of Aluminium based alloys,but still soft ones. 7075 and 6061 stuff is very expensive. Of course plenty of AKs are made out of steel. The zinc based metals are robust enough,but depends on how they are manufactured. Some are injection molded and some sintered. Cheap metals are often sintered,but this often leaves air bubbles which can ruin durability. Depends on the alloy used too. Some ACM companies use a very heavy and brittle zinc based alloy since it's cheap and 'full metal am bettah' is still a good marketing point. Most,even 'high end' companies use Zamak which is held to a higher standard than the cheap pot metal alloys others use. G&G I believe make some things out of Magnesium like their PSG1 bodies and AK bodies. Plastic guns are nice and cheap and can sometimes,depending on the model be stronger than their pot metal counterparts. As long as the internals are good and it's not brittle 90s airsoft plastic it should be grand.

WHY YOU WANT SHITTY CHINA MADE OPTIC ON FINE RUSSIAN DESIGN RIFLE. SIGHT OF IRON PERFECTLY FINE. YOU ADD MORE AND MORE STUPID SHIT AND STILL CANNOT HIT LARGEST SIDE OF BARN. MAYBE ATTACH SEX DILDO AND FUCK SELF IN ASS FOR MAKING TRAVESTY OF FINE WEAPON?

Mixing bushings and bearings for maximum smoothness has been done before,but don't run different bushings on the same gear! Try get it off,and run the bevel with bushings. Don't risk imploding your gearbox. The friction and stress will be unequal and could lead to some catastrophic results

GFC SR25 is a rebrand of the JG SR25 by Gunfire.pl. JGs use a beefed up Extended V2 gearbox that's a bit different to the A&K/CA ones. It uses an extended cylinder head,heavily reinforced extended gearbox shell and longer tappet place,however the rest of the parts are V2. http://www.khmountain.com/airsoft/product_info.php?products_id=1248 Just to be sure OP,does this look like your GB? A&K/CA V2.5 Gearboxes will not work with JG SR25s.

Afraid it's the same situation for my brother-The 3D printer they have is only for prototyping products and not for personal use. However another option is to go to UCD,where my brother is doing his PHD, and fork out 30 quid to use it. Sadly,that's just to expensive for me at the moment,I can buy an AirsoftPro HE lever for about 15 euro with shipping I guess the next step is to wait till next year when I'm in 5th year and can dick about in tech class and get to use our new CNC mill.

Loving Cyma's Butchery of the King Arms logo there

If I had the blueprints and dimensions for the arm needed and the blueprints for the H nub it might be possible. of course it's best to have the physical things with you. I might give the design a whirl after I come back from a milsim this weekend.

Finished the model of the hop arm on autocad,now going to make a few versions with different tolerances in dimensions. To be fair I copied the Dangerwerx Type B arm way too much for my liking but don;t fix what isn't broken amirite? It's not like I'm going to be that much a cnut and sell these anyway. It was fairly simple to make once I got a good reference picture. Guess my experience with blender may have helped n me getting the hang of autocad. I Will still message Dangerwerx Dave to see if he's fine with me using his design(Then again he did kind of use Noobie's designs which were more or less open source) However can;t hurt to be 100% sure. The arm so far,looks identical to Dave's HE lever,It's a bit embarrassing Gucci H nubs may be harder but I'll give them a go soon. If I can sort something out with my brother and the 3D printer at his workplace then maybe I can get one or two production runs of gucci H nubs. If I ever do I'd imagine I'd sell them for about a euro or some each, depends on how expensive materials and all that craic is.

Thinking of 3D printing Dangerwerx Type B arms for personal use as my brother has access to one at work. 3d printing looks a bit better than a lot of cast parts(Lol JG bar 10 hop arm) so I might give it a go and see how it works. Using a soft bucking I'm sure even the weakest of 3d printable plastics could hold up. I think 3d printing could lead to a load of new hop up concepts,should be cool for all the techie goyim.

Battery in THE MAG???? No thanks Ares I know Ares make some REALLY dumb engineering decisions but this takes the cake!

And now:

A twatty selfie my mates pressured me into making the morning before Bellurgan's OP Open Shield to take the piss off some other people on snapshit. I admit it looks stupid especially with the utterly moronic devil horn hand gesture but It's not like I had any free will in It's making. Peer pressure am bad lads.

I can even keep my Ukrainian recon impression too since Fleck is in pretty wide use. I can see why,it's really really effective. What would be the best place to buy? I'm considering taking a trip down to Dublin to Army Bargains or buying online Flecktarn.co.uk.

Added some elastic foot straps on my KLMK to keep it low and in my boots. Worked really well for OP Open shield last Sunday,When I get my Fecktarn kit sorted I'll probably do this on it too. Right now I'm working on getting some clips on my main pouch since the belt weave thing it has is stupid. Also going to do some DIY work on my boots with shoe goo to reinforce the sole in some places.