jcheeseright

um, actual spend is about £900, RRP for it all is probably pushing £1300-1400 ish. I only bought the real Surefire and RMR because the deals I was offered were too good to pass up! Though I've seen a number of repro RMRs where the lens has fallen out because of the slide recoiling and the surefire is so much brighter than any repro I've ever seen, so in a way I'm just following through on my own advice of 'buy nice or buy twice'. If it's any consolation, it shot better when it was a 100% stock TM with the plastic slide.

finished: No more will be done to this pistol unless someone releases a Gen 4 slide for the TM Glock 17 or I buy a X300V.

Norotos AKA2 and Wilcox J-Arm .... now I'm skint!

The FPS advertised for those guns is 'approximate' at best, yours will end up being between 300-350. As for the MOSFET, people have had issues with the G&G MOSFETs and 11.1v LiPo batteries burning them out (how big a percentage have actually failed I don't know... probably not many at all), if you're gonna rock out with a 7.4v then either gun will work just as well, you probably won't notice the difference.

I wouldn't be able to give a reliable guess but it'll be lower than you'd expect (bigger spring takes more energy to pull) but if you're running the gun as a semi auto sniper platform you're probably not going to be emptying whole high caps game in game out (if you are, you're doing it wrong!) so battery life is unlikely to be an issue. A conservative estimate would be that you might get 800 shots out of a big battery like that with the setup you're using... it'd probably be much more, but I'd say no less than 800. All dependent on a huge array of factors though.

You can buy 14.8v LiPos from component shop, any decent LiPo charger will work with them (they're just a 4 cell LiPo where an 11.1v is a 3 cell), IMAX B6 or Turnigy Accucell are what I'd recommend. Cost wise probably £70-80 for the lot? You'll need to buy a good quality motor to run a 14.8v setup, but if you're doing a 500fps AEG you'll NEED a good motor just for it to work at all. Regarding gearbox lockups, good shooting technique is of course always recommended with a full trigger pull each time going a long way to alleviate v2 lockups but it's not 100% guaranteed, all it takes is a bit of motor overspin to put your piston 3/4 of the way back and a battery which is close to 'dead' and it'll lock... full trigger pull or not! If anything, I'd recommend you get a good quality active braking MOSFET (ASCU, Spectre, Chimera, etc) and remove the anti reversal latch entirely.

There's no scale on that picture so there's no way to know if they're mini or regular, most airsoft stuff is done with mini deans though, should be about 10-12mm across. I remember you're rocking a 500fps setup with an M140 spring, you're gonna need a lot of amps to pull that back rapidly, that battery will burst to 108A which is more than enough to cycle it. Though, since you're semi-auto only you may wish to consider a 14.8V battery to really give it some oomph, providing you're running a decent motor and are using a good quality MOSFET to bypass your trigger contacts 14.8v (along with a decent discharge rate) will more or less guarantee no lockups as well as providing extremely fast trigger response. As for how discharge rate works, I don't know of a forum thread that details it, sorry! I'm working from 15 year old memories of A Level physics

component shop are decent, hobbyking can be hit and miss. the C rating is entirely dependent on the capacity of the battery, if you're using a 1000mAh battery you'll want to go for 25C+, but if you're rocking out some gigantic 3700mAh beast then 10C is more than adequate. Multiply the A (not mA) rating of the battery by the C rating and that'll give you the discharge rate in amps, for a standard AEG I recommend between 25 and 30 as being the sweet spot, if you're running a high-torque setup or pulling big springs then more is better.

Um, pretty much every special forces unit in the world?

British airspace is a lot more cramped than the US too, flying a drone over a certain weight (can't remember exact figures, I'll look it up at work) inside controlled airspace is a pretty sure way to pick up some big fines.

For BB weight I tend to go with whatever will give me 280-320fps actual muzzle velocity, so with a 500fps gun if expect that to be in the .40 ish region. Anything faster than 330ish and wind resistance (which increases logarithmically with projectile velocity) takes effect much more quickly, sapping your BB's energy and reducing your overall range rather than increasing it.

Selfie bedroom wanker pic, I apologise, but you can see largely what's going on with the front of the plate carrier. It's a crye AVS with the harness, medium plate bags, 6x9 side armour, molle extensions and 2-band airlite cummerbund. Pouches I've stuck on there are a blue force gear ten speed M4 triple on the front, small 4"x4" utility pouch on my right kidney, radio pouch front right, 2x small utility pouches front left for grenades and a 1litre hydro pouch on the back. That's pretty much it. To address your specific points; Price tag; expensive, I think the plate carrier before pouches was approx $800 from a US retailer, I expect it'd be more if you could get them in the uk. Overall quality; bombproof, made to hold up to the demands of real soldiers in real gunfights, massive overkill for airsoft but no one makes a decent replica. Customisability; hands down the most versatile rig money can buy. I can strip it down to a lightweight front and back plate with one band cummerbund or scale it up to how it is there in a matter of minutes, the front 'flap' is also changeable in seconds with Velcro and every surface is molle compatible. How well it serves my loadout; carries everything I need in a low-profile and comfortable (it's like being hugged by a cloud) package, almost infinitely customisable I regularly swap the front flaps over for different magazine types (I have one set up for M4 mags and one for MP7). Things I would change; have already changed a couple of bits about, the 2 band cummerbund has been replaced with the larger 3-band one for more versatility with carrying things on my sides; I have some pouches mounted direct to the harness which sit under the cummerbund and then some attached to the cummerbund itself, allowing me to 'double up' on usable space. The back has also been changed, the hydro pouch has been replaced with a zip-on panel which has a built in hydro pocket so if I want to carry a backpack or whatever I can just zip my water off in 2 seconds and stuff the whole thing into the backpack. Also gives me more space on the back to mount other stuff (smoke grenades I expect along with a big ish utility pouch for snacks and a waterproof jacket). Obviously this isn't a 'beginner' kit, but I thought I'd put it up as a counterpoint to the more reasonably priced rigs that are on offer... There's a sliding scale of expensive (it gets way pricier than my setup if you want something in genuine AOR patterns!) and this rig doesn't, for airsoft, do a vast amount more than a £50 Chinese LBT6094 knockoff.

I'm in that one, see if you can spot my beautiful face!

No, bb dimensions are pretty static. 5.95mm or thereabouts, regardless of weight. Your gun will be able to fire anything as long as it's 6mm. Your hop up may not be able to lift really heavy BBs but it'll definitely do .30.

I'm a self confessed #maruifanboy but I couldn't ever in good faith recommend someone buy one of their spring shotguns. The DE/ASG ones are just as good and a third (sometimes less!) of the price. The only part of the spring shotgun package I'd suggest is genuinely better with a marui is the shells, the cheap DE/ASG ones are garbage, half of them won't feed properly without disassembly and filing burrs off the insides. If you can stomach the cost though, the TM M870 tactical gas shotgun is a thing of extraordinary beauty and makes all other airsoft shotguns seem like sacks of turd in comparison.

Reference face and eye protection, check with your game site before you buy anything, i know a few sites local to me insist on proper FULL FACE sealed protection for under 18s.

The bolt release will only function when the bolt is being held back by the catch, it's neither a fault or an oversight it's how pretty much every real gun works, including the MP7. If you dry fire the gun the bolt assembly will lock to the rear and be caught, hitting the bolt release will lower the catch and allow the working parts to return. Dry firing can be done in a couple of ways, easiest is just to hold the bolt release catch up while firing. Another way is to block the follower in the magazine from reaching the top, this will stop the empty magazine from actuating the bolt catch.

You'll want an npas for the MP7 or it'll be too hot to use.

£70 for an emerson knock off?!?!? You must be made of money. http://www.ebairsoft.com/mobile/ballistic-style-helmet-tb460-multicam-p-6146.html $60 with free shipping = £35

Why not just buy one from an Asian retailer? It's the same product just cheaper. If you must pay over the odds for a uk stockist though, helmetworld on ebay have a good selection.

Black ops cribbs out by cribbs causeway is also full auto.

Get a decent tightbore (Prometheus, madbull, etc) an eagle6 M95 spring and the Prometheus spring guide and you'll be looking at 340-350 fps for less than £70.

I'd put oakleys up to that test no problem, if they're genuine the BB won't leave anything more than a smudge.

They're all good, though the AK and G36 ones don't have the bolt stop feature.

It's not the barrel that causes the wobble, it's the nut that secures it, the madbull one doesn't fit 100% correctly so it needs shims to tighten it down.