jcheeseright

Gen3 is the generation of toptech that it is, if you can, get a gen3 one as they come with a lot of stuff that the gen2 guns don't, better wiring, a MOSFET already installed, a good quality barrel. Gen2 are still really good, but the gen3 ones are just a little bit better.

A note on that helmet barry, do NOT use the visor in it as eye protection, they're not rated for any kind of impact at all and BBs at 300fps fly straight through!

that NVG mount is a Norotos AKA2, I think there's an airsoft replica of it made by FMA. As for the helmet, standard Mich 2001 with some sticky back velcro and goggle retention straps added. The marine in that picture has also added an ops-core x-nape too, but that'll just have been for stability when using NVG, if you're not going down that route the standard straps are fine.

As for maintenance, clean the barrel; leave the rest the hell alone. There's a reason people's guns break before time: it's because they tinker with them! A decent gun should last years without any major attention, while the parts are moving fast they're under very little strain most of the time (pulling back a spring isn't taxing), I had a Tokyo Marui M4A1 that I bought in 2001 that when I sold it last year was still running as well as when I first bought it. I never once opened the gearbox. Buy a decent gun from a decent company and use the warranty in the unlikely event that it breaks. I can highly recommend G&G toptech or combat machine guns (with a budget of £300 a combat machine is probably more where you should be looking) from Pro Airsoft Supplies. They honour their warranties and the guns are solid.

yeah, warm (not hot!) water with a bit of dish soap in it, then give it a good rinse and let it dry inside out.

OPTactical.com, shipping was eyewateringly expensive but if you buy enough stuff at once it works out cheaper than getting it here!

I've never had a problem with the fan drying them out, there's not that much air movement going on, certainly not enough for it to be considered 'windy' inside the goggles. Just enough to pull the moist, warm air out and replace it with air at the ambient temperature.

Watch that video again, the Bioval BBs are the ones that are hard enough to shatter glass... the ones that explode into a million fragments are these: http://www.airsoftoutletnw.com/products/airsoft-bbs/precision-airsoft-bbs/white-high-precision-25g-3-800-round-bbs normal standard BBs, not bio, plastic. QED.

"that is an established fact in the airsoft world, its because the moment they touch the air they are degrading" what. the. actual. fuck. Go do some research into what bio BBs are actually made of then come back. I'll start you off with the knowledge that air contact has sweet FA to do with the breakdown of any brand of bio BB. Surely a bio BB 'powdering' is less likely to cause sight damage than a plastic BB shattering into shards? I'll blow a bit of talc into your eyes, then chuck a handful of sand into them... which is going to cause you more issues? This message was sponsored by the folks at the University of Airsoft research YouTube Inc, become a 10 year old alumni without even needing to know about experimental controls, factor analysis or even compiling data to reach a conclusion! Just shoot some stuff at a bit of glass and say "yeah, that looks worse than the other one", boom, instant Airsoft PhD!

oh, and Green Devil Bio BBs are the best BBs I have ever used as far as consistency goes, ironfoot airsoft are the UK distributor: www.ironfoot.co.uk

I like to keep it to-the-point. There's been a lot of information touted around on these forums recently which is clearly second hand from various internet sources, quite a lot of that information is wrong. If you don't KNOW the answer, why are you contributing information to someone else's thread? Spreading unverified hearsay is the way that "longer tighter barrel = more accurate" and "use heavier BB's to reduce your FPS for chrono" and similar get spread about.

you probably won't need new o-rings, just soak the ones that are in the mag with silicone oil overnight then when you seal it up use some grease on on the parts where the baseplate on the magazine fits in to further seal it up. if the o-rings are split you'll need to replace them though, I bought a mix box of o-rings from eBay and just pick one that fits tightly when I need to repair a magazine, no requirement for it to be the exact correct one, as long as it fits and creates an air tight seal.

What a feed of shite. I've never ever played at a site that doesn't allow bio BBs, and I have played at a LOT of sites. In fact, I've played at a number of sites that DO mandate bio ammo, Skirmish in Exeter, MIA in north Devon, Spartan near Bristol (so much so they insist you use their ammo to guarantee everyone's using bio), CAA near Truro, Warminster airsoft... I could go on. They're not a health hazard for mesh users and they don't shatter any more readily than normal plastic BBs. Reading scare stories on the internet is bad for you, spreading them as truth is bad for everyone.

new hat!

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/22076-tactical-radio-interphone-on-sale/ Go here, buy one of these, immediately. No, really, that's an outrageously cheap price. I've seen these shift second hand for £200 in the UK.

looks pretty smart, is that light on constantly? If so, it's gonna give you away in the dark!

topless airsofters... never good. I always think to myself when I see it "Fellas, you're getting shot with 6mm plastic balls not blow darts, they don't hurt that much! You just look like a slightly over/underweight pasty white weirdo running round with no shirt on!"

wow, blast from the past with those sound effects! was like being back in 1999 all over again!

you need more Union flags on the front, 2 in a 4 inch space isn't enough!

oh christ yeah, to say there's a gulf in quality between ASG and Marui is an understatement. That said, the ASG Mk23 is a solid performer, it's a non-blow back gun so there's not really much to go wrong. Direct clone of the TM dimensionally, different materials used obviously but TM mags fit and feed fine, though you may as well just use the ASG ones since there's no performance gain to be had from using the more expensive marui ones.

first thing that came to mind: Please let us know what you think of the drac, I'm after something to replace my very worn PCU

no way should ricochets count, clearing room etc would be a simple case of hammering a high cap into the door frame from the correct angle and letting the bouncing BBs do the job for you! That said, sometimes it's very difficult to tell the difference between a ricochet and a direct hit... if in doubt and all that, it's just a game after all.

I suppose it depends largely upon your playing style. I put my gun and sling through a lot more than most people (Kurt Cobain et al excluded) will put their guitars through. Like the marui GBB thread argument happening in another thread on the forum, it all comes down to anecdotal vs experiential knowledge. I've seen lots of Chinese made sling hardware (loops, triglides, swivels, clips etc) fail over time eventually resulting in the gun hitting the floor rather hard (happened to me in fact with a knock off magpul MS2 sling, £500 gun fell 4' onto concrete when the front clip sheared). For the sake of a few quid is it worth buying a cheapo sling?

couldn't agree more. Everyone always goes on about how airsoft is a game of honesty, yet so few people will trust in the honesty of their fellow players. 99% of the time, if you're shooting at someone and they haven't called hit, it's because you haven't hit them! I've used this as an example before I'm sure, but Beard at Spartan Airsoft (near Bristol, good site) once did a test with an oil drum: He placed the drum on a long flat path with no obstructions and set up a firing point 30 yards away. Players were asked to stand at the firing point and using aimed shots to shoot at the oil drum, most players missed by a fair margin. There were some who were off by several yards and many who's BBs were overhopping so much that they were clipping branches above the drum. Even with a marshall stood next to the drum (which made a loud noise when hit) there were a hard-core of "I don't miss, call your hits!" types who insisted that they MUST be hitting the drum when they clearly were not. With that in mind, next time you're shooting at half a hand sticking out from behind a tree stump 40 yards away with a shitload of foliage in between... there's a good chance you're nowhere near it.

Definitely true, the handguard is wrong. The cutouts are in the wrong position and the 12 o'clock rail should moulded in as a single part. Ares also seem to have added a serration to the front of the magwell for no good reason. With a gun that has that many high quality and high resolution pictures available there's not really much excuse for getting fundamental details like that wrong. There's no such thing as 'close enough' as far as I'm concerned (barring technical issues like AEG grip widths). It's either a replica or it's not, this is not a replica of the AAC honey badger, it's a close approximation.