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Davegolf

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Posts posted by Davegolf

    THE TM MWS thread

    in Gas Guns

    Posted

    6 hours ago, StoveCap said:

    Dunno about this, couple thousand through and my DE's nozzle is fine and I've been using TM mags, and most people recommend using the GM mags with the DE because the DE mags are based off the GM mags (The GMs are just better though).
     

    On the gas end, The max anyone should be putting through the MWS is red, black is overkill even in 0c, remember this gun was made to run duster gas in japan which has climates varying from scalding in the southerner areas to below freezing in the northernmost areas. Red is good for even 0c if you do your due diligence with sealing (Which is really required for running any gbbr in winter). Black gas is way more likely to break your gun (or even your mags, i found out).

    On the oil thing, I'll admit im not lubrication expert. So I'd never heard of Parker Hale gun oil, and after looking at it, it doesn't seem to contain anything that provides a boundary lubricant (e.g. PTFE/Syncolon my beloved). It's marketed as a rust preventer(?).  What makes you recommend that?

     

    Re black gas, in freezing conditions its pressure is considerably reduced, yes if you are stupid and use it when warmer breakages will occur.

     

    You are correct Parker gun oil does not contain PTFE or any other modern slippery substance, it is a mineral oil of which its natural properties provide lubrication.

    It is also lightweight, so it penetrates, does not clog, and it cleans, it is not a one time treatment, it is meant to be applied and removed with each usage of the RIF just as you would a real firearm.

     

     

    I mean i havent run MWS's since they came out or anything.

    THE TM MWS thread

    in Gas Guns

    Posted

    23 hours ago, Hound said:

    Hello, I've been doing airsoft a couple of years but I'm very new to GBBR and the mk18 mws is my first gas gun so apologise for any stupid questions, any help is massively appreciated!

     

    Firstly I got the gun out read the manuals (looked at the pictures) there was one picture that confused me abit about splitting the gun as I've never done it before and don't want to be stuck if I ever need to, what position does the bolt need to be in when taking out the pins and splitting, logic tells me forward but I've learnt not to trust logic haha. Also is there anything else i should know?

     

    Secondly is there anything I should change or do to the gun immediately or just wait until I need to do it. I have had a look on YouTube but everyone seems to call things different names and I'm not massively clued up anyway. 

     

    Third I made the decision to use nuprol 2.0 green gas as I couldn't find any dry gas available in the uk and I don't mind the extra maintenance (once I know how), problem is I use 0.28g and its firing 305fps which would be too hot for uk limits but then it fires 330 on 0.20g which is ok so I'm not really sure how that is happening and what I need to do if I want to use 0.28g as I'm worried about using weaker gas incase i break something. 

     

    Finally, using green gas, how often would you recommend cleaning. i attend games every Sunday sometimes every other Sunday.

     

    Once again thank you for any help i didn't realise how stressful it would be but i kind of like it haha.

     

    For summer in the UK run Nuprol 2.0 / green or weaker.

    Colder times of the year Nuprol 3.0 / red

    Winter 0c Nuprol 4.0 / black

    Basically you are using gas at different pressures to maintain the same FPS year round.

     

    Buy a spare nozzle return spring, it will break eventually but this will be a good few thousand rounds!

    The nub and the plastic buffer part 'b' are the only parts that need upgrading or protecting.

     

    Get into the routing of cleaning your gun before or after each game day.

    Lube the piston seal before or after each game day with TechT silicone grease.

    Lightly oil all metal on metal moving parts with Parker Hale gun oil.

    Keep the inner barrel clean, and the bucking dry.

    Always store your mags with gas in them.

     

    THE TM MWS thread

    in Gas Guns

    Posted

    11 minutes ago, The_Lord_Poncho said:

     

    Well, I've never done this - does it make a difference? Just to get any factory residue - silicone etc off it?

     

    Indeed, how does a rubber impart backspin? Friction.

    This is why you always want the rubber bone dry of all lubricants.

    THE TM MWS thread

    in Gas Guns

    Posted · Edited by Davegolf

    Always remember to wash your new rubbers with fairy and hot water guys n gals!

     

    Use your nylon barrel rod to turn it inside out without damaging it ;)

     

    What are you're rig/vest recommendations

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    20 hours ago, Duff Beer said:

    I’ve got two HSGI AO Small chest rigs setup; one for the MP7 and one for the L85.  They both work perfectly with the battle belt.  They’re very good, but my head’s been turned by the Spiritus Systems Alpha 34.  

     

    I’ve got a Tactical Tailor Mini MAV in the drawer which was super lightweight, but if overloaded wasn’t as comfy as it’s an X-harness rather than an H-harness in the HSGI’s.

     

    The front opening TT MAV with molle back panel is the best load carrying setup thats not a vest/plate carrier, its very comfy fully loaded, simple and light in itself.

     

    Money no object in my experience, comfiest plate carrier is the Slickster

    I ran the MAV setup above for years, great kit.

     

    Im currently trialing my velcro inner/outer rigger gun belt setup, but added a British PLCE yoke for some extra stability when running with a lot of gear on the belt (GBB pistol, 3x mags, 2x AR mags, 1x med, 1x utility, 1x Navtel, 1x dump)

     

    Means i can throw a plate carrier on with a triple front AR mag for CQB etc, or a Combat Smock for woodland, all super low profile / minimal snagging.

    THE TM MWS thread

    in Gas Guns

    Posted

    Re bolt weight, it’s all relative to buffer spring strength, and how real you want your fake gun to feel.

     

    Honestly a heavier bolt has zero performance benefits.

    You using more gas, slowing the cycle rate and wearing things faster.

     

    Lightweight bolt is the way to go, paired with correct buffer spring


    The only true hop upgrade from SixG Super Nub is Rhop

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