RostokMcSpoons

Cheers, I definitely need a big bag of shims. My jig is actually doing a pretty good job for me so the helping hands clips aren't necessary. While the thing is in bits though, it seems sensible to upgrade any more parts at the same time. The cylinder and piston seen to be prime candidates, anything special I need to look for? I saw this https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/master-mods-full-steel-teeth-reinforced-upgrade-piston-set It's out of stock but is that a sensible upgrade?

Blimey. Still not got it back together. Made one change to the jig - drilled a hole under the anti-rev latch's position, stuffed a couple of neo magnets in there, stacked a couple more on top - latch held in place My main spring finds new and exciting ways to escape before everything lines up. I know it's just a matter of strong fingers in the right places, plus perhaps a little bit of luck, but it's not happening. Even if I keep the spring inside the shell, if it 'jumps' then it dislodges the bracket the trigger contact slider sits in, and I have to remove the tappet plate to reposition it. Arrggggh. But anyway... I've rehearsed lining up the shell without the main spring. I can get all the pins to locate and the shell to snap shut nicely. The problem is the gears are wobbling around. I don't think it's the fact I've probably lost 2 or 3 shims with the the spring flying about, the sector is moving perhaps a full 1mm sideways. Perhaps that thing that flew by my ear was important after all I certainly can't put it back together without a bunch of shims at least, and I don't have any. Can I get them from Screwfix? edit: looks like screwfix is a 'no'. Looks like I'll be making an order before I can continue. Might as well get some proper parts too!

I went off, had a bite and a beer and came back to it. Decided to build a jig to hold things (especially the trigger) in place as I'm closing the shell... "Ta-da" Yup, just a block of wood with some appropriately placed nails... Worked a treat, put the shell back on and wiggled things into place on my second attempt! Connected up to the motor, bound up on the first shot. I didn't check the gear positions before I closed it (bound to miss something). Problem is, when I opened it up again, with the spring half-cocked, the spring released and *something* went flying over my shoulder, probably lost for a month or two. I think it's just one of the shims. All the springs are present and correct.

I'm 4.5 hours in and still can't get it back together. Is that par for the course or am I irredeemably ill-suited to this bedroom-teching lark?

I'm sure everyone else has had this problem when putting gearboxes back together, it's possible to get everything in place but not all at the same time. Compressing the main spring and holding that in place whilst trying to get everything else to line up ... arrrrggghh And I've only managed to get the trigger spring in place a couple of times but the pins are so out-of-alignment the shell will never get close to getting together How do you guys do this???

Edit: I got the gearbox out by removing all the bolts towards the rear of the stock and prising the stock open a little, and eventually it dropped out (with me pushing on it). I think the bolt directly above the word 'f2000' stops it moving, that's the key one. Well I've split open the gearbox, and I think I've managed to keep track of all the shims and I can refit the reversal latch and all that other crap. But the trigger spring is giving me the absolute arsehole. the arrowed bit of plastic gets in the way, so I can't hook the spring around the back of the trigger block AND drop it into place, without the gearbox hook coming out. If that plastic block wasn't there it'd be easy but the tappet mechanism needs it. How do I reinstall this trigger? Any handy hints??? It's piss-easy on a normal v3 gearbox, judging by this excellent video: Pertinent bit is at 19:47 Edit: I ended up super-gluing the geabox end of the spring into the gearbox. That meant I could wedge the trigger from an angle in without it popping out altogether. To ensure the pin locates into the hole properly the spring needs pushing 'up' the pin. The damned thing is stepped so it tends to stick where it's not wanted 😕 OK, I had to give in and take apart the tappet plate etc. The trigger is now in place, I just have to hope everything else will fit together on top Now I've got the cylinder out, I've tried compressing it with my thumb over the nozzle. There's very little resistance, so my air seal appears to be awful. Maybe by design? The cylinder head appears to be ported... my technical knowledge has run out at this point, I thought more pressure = more pew pew power.

Carlos at Special Ops told us at the end of the last game that he's looking for a site to use for CQB. Reading this thread gives me the fear that it'll be in that environment is be bumping into a lot more of the toxic characters with unpleasant rates of fire that you all seem to contend with each time you play. I was starting this reply with the intention of asking 'what rules would you put in place, would you make it semi auto' etc but it would be bloody presumptuous of me, just back in the sport, to start lobbying the business owner of many years experience to tell him how to run his new venture 🥴😌 So I guess once it starts up I'll just have to suck it and see, maybe give it a swerve entirely. And hope that any asshole players drawn in don't decide to play the outdoor stuff too!

Cheers again. I was searching for hints about f2000 disassembly and over of the posts was "what's the worst gun you have worked on" and one of the replies was "Cyma F2000, when I split the body to take out the gearbox and the trigger assembly was a nightmare to get back together" So I'll try to avoid that 😌

Thanks @Adolf Hamster I think the takeaway message from that comprehensive answer is "no, not if you have no feckin' idea what you're doing (I can see you googling which one is the bevel right now), you clown" But... I've got to learn this stuff sometime. I've got some little neodymium magnets I can use for the latch - that's a good hint How do I shift the gearbox though? Is it just requiring a bit of brute force to get it out of there? The fps went as low as 200fps with (presumably masses of) hop on but I will try adding hop in smaller increments, just to see what I'm working with. I presume you're talking about 'joule creep' where a a slower initial velocity leads to more time for the air pressure to build, and a higher final velocity?

My Tactical Tuna is a big ol' hunk of loveliness, but mechanically I can already see and feel first-hand the failings compared to the much more refined build of my Double Eagle M906C. The highest muzzle velocity I've seen from it with no hop at all is 270fps so it definitely needs more oomph. I've got a few quid I can spare to make it better, so I'm likely to use @Asomodai's shopping list of parts in his recently sold gun as the basis for my long-term build. G&G metal Hop up unit AOLS 380mm Barrel Maple Leaf 50 Degree bucking, Ohm nub Mosfet SHS High Torque 22TPA Motor Short stroked (Asomodai, would you pick the same components again if you were re-building the gun? Any parts you'd substitute with the benefit of experience? Which Mosfet did you go with?) So I'm immediately pulling it apart to see everything is as best as can be, with a view to swapping the hop bucking and nub and the main spring as the first steps in the journey. I'm a little bit stymied by the fact almost all the F2000 videos out there relate to the G&G version, not the Cyma one. I'm trying to be gentle with things because I'm still inexperienced and don't want to break stuff, but I've already found when trying to fiddle the backplate out that some effort, twisting and bending can be needed to make things happen. I can now see the gearbox in all its glory, but it doesn't want to shift at all. I can see the motor height adjustment screw at the bottom but that seems to be just sitting in place, not holding in. I've taken out the two cross bolts from the stock as well, though I don't if they're involved. Pressing backwards on the gearbox above the nozzle from the 'flip top bin' sees a couple of mm of rearward movement, but that's it. Is there a trick to removing the gearbox from the body? Once the gearbox is out, I just want to put a stronger spring in. I've got a spare M100 spring, and also a couple of springs that were inside the box (but they're linear and shiny and look a bit cheap so probably won't try them after all) If I crack open a v3 gearbox, managing to hold the main spring in place, will anything else shift out of whack? Will I have trigger springs pinging around etc? Basically I'm asking: Can an idiot (me) replace the mainspring in the gearbox and put it back together easily?

Just to complete this thread for anyone who comes across it in the future, I bought a stock sling adapter off eBay. It's a d-ring on a length of webbing with a standard buckle on one end. Cost a fiver. It was too short to fit around the end of the stock through the sling slots. At 41cm that should have been blindingly obvious to me before I bought it 🥴 It was also a little wide, the slots are just under 30mm wide, but the 1.25"/32mm webbing will fit through with gentle persuasion. However, rather than buying a second one and linking them together, I decided to just run it through the thumbhole and over the top of the receiver, just in front of the rear sight. This works fine. The d-ring is available to the left for my single point sling to attach to, and it holds the weight of the gun at the center of gravity so I don't feel it is stressing the bodywork in any way. That does leave the gun dangling a little lower than I'd like but it'll do. The sling is definitely important because this gun is a chunky beast, feels noticeably heavier than my m4, at least until it's shouldered. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tactical-Universal-D-Ring-Sling-point-Adapter-Rifle-Buttstock-Loop-Strap-Airsoft-/194351061265

Blinged up a little with my Kobra, my cheap suppressor and a stock sling adapter that's too short to fit where it ought to go, but does fit nicely through the thumbhole and over the RIS which looks like it'll be fine. It's a cool beast Chrono'd at 270Fps on 0.20g. My spare M100 will go in sharpish, but there's actually two extra springs inside the box, I'll maybe try them too, out of curiosity! The hop unit is cheap feeling compared to the nice one in my DE M906C so I think I'll be finding a replacement sooner rather than later. The hop when applied looks off center, so not expecting much accuracy as it is. Happy Xmas everyone 😊

Yeah it's always struck me as super-easy to piss someone off with a high p&p cost. Amazon have made a whole business (Prime) out of selling us the ability to get things 'fast and free' because it makes the purchase so painless. Of course we've paid £70 (or whatever it is these days) up-front for the privilege, but damn, it works. Human psychology is a blunder-ful thing! You can see some higher unit prices on eBay too, but again they'll often capture my business even if the total is the same or slightly lower, along with the 'free p&p' wording. Ant Supplies will always get business from me because they'll do anything p&p included, though I feel guilty when I'm buying cheap stuff and the costs must surely be destroying their profit margin. One day I'll buy something more substantial, just to assuage my guilt! Anyway - JD's charge of £11 for my F2000 and 18,000 BB's and other bits'n'bobs in a hefty box was fair.

Ah, sorry Roger if I didn't make myself clear, it's being anti-mask as well as anti-vax that I have an issue with. I appreciate your point regarding the vaccines is fair and valid especially given the new strain breaking through the immunity. For the previous strains we knew it was never 100% but still demonstrably doing a good job in reducing infections. If everyone in the UK had got their jabs done, it wouldn't have stopped Omicron from appearing - that's a failure of the SA govt and the international community.

I'll take another look at the hop system, once I've done my Xmas shopping ;D The fps min max is pretty stable now, especially with the 0.25's and hop applied, the last few shots were 302.3 301.5 301.3 302.6 (Unfortunately all the rest of the shots on my chrono history are a different gun, but I remember the other ones were all around 300-302 as well)

It's 'only' an inch and a bit off, but given how solidly the gun goes together I wasn't expecting anything to shift to spoil the windage zero. Which is why I suspected the hop. I think I'll put my old 4x32 scope on the gun (something I could have tried before) to see if I can spot any deviation at the last moment - there was nothing obvious with the trajectory to me looking through the Kobra sight (but I do have crap eyesight with these specs!). Edit: Just tried the scope, so I can clearly see most of the shots are good, but with a few curving either way, with more to the right than to the left when they do curve.

Yeah, but it's not 'the sniffles' is it 😠 At worst, it kills people. Imagine if Al-Qaida was killing 150 people per day (last figure I've seen for daily COVID deaths in the UK) and people sat around saying "I don't want anything done to stop it", perhaps even more pertinently "I won't do anything to stop, even though I could help". How much respect would you have for those people? Maybe you've not lost anyone close to you so let's make it more relatable. I've got friends I play football with who caught it before their jabs, and they could still hear the scar tissue in their lungs crackle months afterwards. I had it, and even with the harshest edges of it knocked off by my two jabs, it was a pretty crappy week. That's not the worst of it for me though. I've lost a big percentage of my senses of taste and smell. Maybe permanently. Same for my wife and daughter. Losing your ability to fully enjoy steaks, curries, beer, wine and all the other good things that usually make life enjoyable - that's really shit. I wouldn't wish it on anyone. When a normally delicious curry becomes an exercise in swallowing a load of pencil erasers in a tasteless liquid, and you wash it down with a beer that might as well be water, you will not be a happy bunny, guaranteed. This is just an example as the senses thing is obviously towards at the 'best case' / 'inconvenient' end of the spectrum of outcomes. If you're happy for others to suffer because of 'personal freedoms', then... words fail me. Rebuttal to your one study, a meta-study published in the British Medical Journal: https://www.bmj.com/content/375/bmj-2021-068302 "Results from more than 30 studies from around the world were analysed in detail, showing a statistically significant 53% reduction in the incidence of Covid with mask wearing" I absolutely don't want to get into an argument over this, I don't suppose any of us will change our mindsets (for better, or for worse). Also with the Omicron variant the whole battlefield is shifting beneath our feet, the scientists are unsure of the longer-term outcomes, maybe we'll all end up catching an essentially harmless COVID that grants herd-immunity in the future. That's probably ridiculously wishful-thinking, but there's certainly a possibility the way we approach the disease will change. It may just be so infectious that we can't dodge it, masks or not.

Quick accuracy test this morning... new spring, bucking and nub Not quite got everything dialled in by the looks of things... and maybe the rubber still has some silicone oil on it (from the cylinder/nozzle), though it does appear to be applying hop successfully. Accuracy test with cheapo BB Kings 0.25g Bio BB's, 15m measured, fired from room @ 19-20C, 7C ambient temp outside, no wind, bench rest, Kobra red dot, approx 30 shots Chrono'd at 345fps with 0.20g (with hop applied), 300fps with 0.25g The main cluster is tighter, but the slightly larger and much clearer aiming mark I've used may have helped with that... so inconclusive (or no real change) (Also tried a mag ostensibly full of 0.28g BBs loaded up at my last game, but it chrono'd at the same 300fps so I'm thinking it was the same ammo. Same result too - big cluster at top-right with a few flyers, some of them quite wild) Is the fact I'm now grouping slightly further to the right an indication I've not quite got my barrel rotated with the nub at TDC? Is that possible?

Having searched for JD Airsoft in these forums, and finding a bunch of negative comments regarding their comms, I thought it fair to let you know how my experience went: TLDR; It went well I emailed them with a question about the battery compartment in the morning, got a reply within an hour from their sales chap Nathan. I went ahead and bought a gun and some BBs late in the afternoon. Overnight I realised I needed some extra bits and pieces, so emailed again, asking if both the orders could be dispatched under one p&p. Got a quick affirmative reply in the morning - raised a new order, and as directed set it to 'collection' to avoid the delivery charge (Here's the slightly disappointing wrinkle...) Checked the website later. The second order showed as 'dispatched', the first showed as 'preparing'. After a day with no change I emailed them to ask for a progress report... (And back to the good stuff...) Literally-actually-really-truthfully! within 3 minutes of sending that email, the UPS chap turned up. So they don't update their website order tracking very well (or maybe my order-merge wasn't something they could cope with. Also they sent emails acknowledging the first order, but not the second, then two WorldPay transaction messages. There was no email on dispatch. All in all, would order from them again. I think the minimum delivery charge is £10 which is a tiny bit steep, but the customer service was good, and the delivery was on time. Shame the comms didn't work perfectly but maybe that's down to my second order. I'd use them again.

Yeah I was using Geoff's when I first came back to skirmishing because I remember having problems with my AK's tight-bore barrel with cheap ammo. I've now tried a few different makes in my DE... KWA, ASG, BB Kings, and the Geoff's. They've all worked ok, no feeding issues I can remember, but obviously there could be differences in the accuracy that I wouldn't have noticed during games. Hence my attempt to punch a few holes in paper to see how the gun is performing. Geoff's are quite pricey while the Specnas are £8 for 6000 at the moment, which is cheap enough to make me look past any issues https://jdairsoft.net/deals/day-4 Edit: More chrono results today (Thursday) - still 345-365fps depending on hop. Yay! I had to drive to the airport and back and lost the afternoon due to traffic, it was getting dark and raining when I got back so haven't done any more accuracy testing, or left the gun to get cold.

Cheers Adolf, see my edit above - possibly accuracy has improved with the new nub in place. I'll test it properly soon, using both the same BB KIngs ones for a direct comparison, and also the Specna 0.28g Bio BB's that I just bought a big batch of (hoping they're alright!)

(Damnit, can't edit my last post, the emojii on the end seems to confuse the editor) I was going to ask, is the lack of a slot on the bottom of that spring guide going to cause an issue? Will you be able to rotate it ok with just pressure on the base rather than leverage from a screwdriver blade? Question about the accuracy... As I've just received my F2000 but I'm torturing myself by waiting until Christmas morning to unbox it, I ended up watching Airsoft Mike's review again last night. Yeah, I know... but he is the only person who has done a full review of the Cyma version, so 'any port in a storm' ☺️ I'd previously dismissed his accuracy tests as looking like it was too short-ranged to care about, but when I listened he said it was at 50ft, and that's 15m, same range as I tested my gun at. His results with the F2000 were impressive tbh, much tighter grouping than I got. It's raised the question: is the F2000 inherently that much more accurate because of the longer barrel, him shooting indoors with perhaps better BB's etc... Or was my gun underperforming? How are you guys finding the accuracy in your guns? Edit: I've now fitted the Omega nub. It was a little more fiddly than with that cunningly shaped stock nub, as I tried several times and must have positioned it a little too far back so it was perhaps jamming on the edge of the 'window' and failing to apply any hop. Once I'd got it in the right place I fired a few shots down the garden. A very small sample stats-wise, but the shots seemed to fly straighter. Looking forward to repeating the accuracy test later! Chrono tests this morning are the same, yowzers, I'm a happy bunny. I have to put some hop on to get it below the 350fps but that's fine isn't it?

Thread hijacking? Nah, appreciate the interesting info 😊. And I've sidetracked enough threads myself that I can't complain even if you did 😌

I would completely agree with everything you just said there @EDcase except the Omicron variant shows it's not just down to us all doing the right thing, it's down to all the leaders in all the countries trying to do the right thing too, and the rich countries helping the poorer ones with vaccines etc. It's a world-wide responsibility. So while I don't want that to be an excuse for people here ignoring the advice and the temporary rules, I fear that as long as there are pockets of the global community where vaccines haven't been widely distributed or used, there'll be new variants popping up that can cause more trouble. it's going to be a long while before we can get back to a truly normal existence.

Oh I see what you mean, so I forego the security of the retaining part, but it'll still work! Yeah, I'll give that a go! Tomorrow... my wife is demanding my return to the sofa... I must admit, I'm not confident about the muzzle velocity. I'll want to see it chrono consistently for at least a couple more days before being reasonably sure it's fixed. Top tip for anyone putting the stock tube back on, and completely confused on how to manoeuvre the silver bolt retainer into the right location and orientation (especially with the wiring getting in the way) - put the bolt through it before dropping it down the tube - the extra weight stabilises it and gravity becomes your friend