RostokMcSpoons

Does anyone know a good place to buy the diddy 20mm x 5mm glass tube fuses? I need a 30A for my AK and the ones I find are either 20A or below, or in China, or part of huge quantities or in selection boxes. I only need a couple!

Interesting... I hadn't thought of the mag release at all really, and that perhaps relates to an issue I had but hadn't mentioned: The first few times I inserted the mag to test out the newly tightened screws, I heard the "Bzzzzzerrrppppp" Of Death as the spring unwound itself. I put that down to the velcro I'd stuck in the magwell, to locate the magazine a little more firmly, changing the angle the feed tube hit the top of the mag... but perhaps tightening the screws down has moved the feed tube down slightly. Something not quite right there now anyway, I'll try without the velco perhaps. However, a more 'kinetic' approach to inserting the magazine (fast and hard sir?, suits you!) seemed to do the trick, not giving anything bad a chance to happen Fine margins between success and failure with these pew-pews!

The inner barrel looks straight to me! Which is good, I wouldn't fancy trying to bend a barrel The spring that sits in front of the hop unit and pushes it and the barrel back onto the nozzle is present and working (I can lever the hop unit forward and it springs back ok) In the mag well.. no the feed tube is locked in position. It's a shaped piece sitting in a same-shaped hole (square one end, round the other - see photo below), there's definitely not meant to be any movement there. Neither does it move up and down relative to the rest of the gun. What I can see through the feed tube is the end of the (metal) nozzle. Looking up inside the DE it looks the same, so I don't think that's an issue. The DE doesn't have the plate with the shaped hole though, so that's different. Neither does the DE have the two screws on either side of the feed hole. The tops of the small Philips screws which are highlighted are only accessible when the receiver is split open. I watched a video about fixing the very issue of bad feeds on full auto, and the tech seemed to move these screws. I tried it, didn't seem to do anything (either visibly moving any parts, or in the results). Edit: Well I had to give it another go. So I split open the receiver and had another poke about. Given that slackening those two screws did approximately sod-all, I went the other way and tightened them all the way up. And bingo - it's not perfect (I suspect the mag isn't really shoving those BBs up hard if its not fully wound) but damn, it's consistently feeding for the 5 round bursts I use in game. I even managed a couple of longer bursts ok. I think that'll do! I don't think my gun is the same as in that video - it looks like I'd have to shim the feed tube up if I wanted to close the gap to the hop / nozzle... it expects to always have the screws tightened down so it can't move around during full auto firing - which is what was happening, I guess.

I've tried all sorts of different ammo through this, it's shown the behaviour off and on (mostly on I'd say) since the day I got it, all those years ago. I took it back to the seller, and they fixed it... temporarily. Unfortunately I don't know what they changed! Edit: I set up a proper target and did my usual ~30 shot string. They're still off to the right by a couple of inches at 15m. (I must stop mixing imperial and metric, but I'm "that age" ;)) Just goes to show that 'eyeballing the shots' fired off-hand isn't an exact thing, need to bench-rest and track the hits on paper. Mind you the battle sights aren't very exact either. Damn peep holes wouldn't flip over so was using the large diopter. Anyway, the group size was pretty good, considering the sights and the gusty wind. About the same as my DE, 3" wide, 4" high, one flyer to the left. 260-270fps with 0.20g which is consistent with previous chrono tests, but a bit more variance at +-5fps than I'd ideally like. Firing full auto again revealed some 'unpleasantness', I think I had double or half-feeding occurring, as a couple of BBs flew very oddly from the barrel. Jiggling the mag forwards and backwards made it worse so I'll shim the mag well both front and back. I don't think that will fix it though.

Cheers guys. I had another long look at this. Checked the inner barrel. But that's fine. Last time I took the receiver apart, I checked the hop as best as I could, all looked lined-up. The outer barrel has definitely gone owt askew on treddle. It's noticeably pointing to the right compared to the receiver. So I've shimmed it again, with some thin plastic (about 1mm thick). I put a little more around the barrel on this attempt, so it's now about 30% of the right side of the barrel / receiver interface shimmed. I tightened the nut up as best as I can (using a monkey wrench, my cheap 'AR Tool' doesn't seem to fit the barrel nut on this) It's now shooting pretty good with the standard M16 iron sights in the carry handle. I have the peep hole centred left/right and it's bang on. (On my last shimming attempt it was wound all the way over to the left) If I put the Kobra on it's noticeably off for elevation and windage, and outside of the adjustment range for either. Quite odd. I've also tried different mags in the gun to see what's up with the feeding. One of them will feed quite well in full auto for a 5-6 shot burst before going into "I'll fire a BB when I damn well feel like it" mode, shooting one BB for every 4 or 5 cycles. Semi is nailed on though. I tried the new mag I got with the F2000. That things is definitely weird. It won't fit in my DE M906, but fits fine this gun. But feeding? Nope. I had BBs tumbling out of the end of the barrel or shooting 10m. So the gun is finicky on mags. I might try shimming the mag well with a couple of bits of Velcro to make it a little more snug. Any other adjustments I can make? Would a new ZCI hop unit be a sensible investment that might cure it? New nozzle?

My Classic Army M15a3 shoots off-line. It's about 30-40cm off to the right at 15m. I don't think it's anything to do with the hop as the BB's are flying straight. When the barrel nut isn't tightened down fully I can feel some side to side wobble when holding the barrel back against the receiver, I think when the nut is tight it's wobbled off-line and stays there. In the past I've shimmed the barrel with a couple of mm of plastic wedged into the right side between the barrel and receiver, to improve, but not entirely fix it, but that can't be ideal, surely? So I'm wondering if the better option is to try to flatten the end of the receiver's thread, I don't think it is completely square. It's that a silly idea? Also the gun tend to feed poorly on full auto. I asked the tech at my site to fix it, he failed, it seems. I have multiple hicap magazines, maybe it works better with some than others, haven't tried them all in turn to prove that. I have tried fiddling with the two screws on either side of the barrel on the lower receiver, not sure what they are supposed to do, nothing seemed to move! Are there any other things I can try to fix it? It's definitely worked ok on full auto in the past, so it's*nearly* working correctly

With a binary choice it's simple: Assign each gun 'heads' or 'tails' and then flip a coin. Your initial reaction will tell you everything you need to know!

I'll keep things simple for the moment.. if I do anything it'll be the nano Edit: Well... I say that... the Perun AB++ is a halfway house in price (£45) but offers lots of the functionality...? https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/perun-ab

I think now I've got a consistent muzzle velocity that's holding the same day-to-day, it has now reached "good enough". But I was a bit taken aback when someone else mentioned getting 65m hits with their DE. To be fair I've got no idea what my gun will shoot to now, I'm limited to 18-20m max at home, so I'll not fret too much until I've got out to the site again. but that seems unlikely for mine if I'm already grouping at 3-4" at only 15m. Most of my focus is back on the F2000... I've also got my AK47 which is currently dead due to a blown fuse, and needing the nozzle replaced - so another v3 gearbox opening. Ho hum. And my CA M15 is still shooting off to the right again, and also down at 270fps so that needs a spring change. And I might change the front end for a VN M16 handguard... cos they're cool. So plenty to muck about with still!

Oh ffs. If he'd turned up with a hammer would she be closing down B&Q? Hopefully the government are as inept as usual and decide that doing nothing is the only course of 'action' they can take without monumentally buggering it up.

I see what you mean about the ZCI barrels... I could replace the existing 240(?)mm one, or jump up to 340mm for ~£21 That's not bad, not bad at all! But I see what you're up to now, you sneaky man! You're spending my money and upgrading by proxy, call it "Shithausen's Syndrome" Edit: I'll run a few more BB's down the range if it's less windy tomorrow, to get a better take on the current accuracy.

https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/gate-warfet-aeg-control-system-ver-1-1 I was thinking this one (eventually), is the Gate one better? https://www.airsoftcentral.co.uk/perun-v3-version-3-hybrid-drop-in-airsoft-aeg-programmable-mosfet.html

Try this on for size... (apologies for the rubbish shop it's at, stock is tricky to find at the moment) https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/double-eagle-m908a-ar15-rifle-with-falcon-system-in-black.html It's out of stock at Patrolbase but the page is easier to read... https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/double-eagle-m908a-fire-control-system-edition Other variations in stock / receiver / length / rail system are available. Once you drop down to the 904's I think they're all polymer receiver but some might still have metal handguards Quite a few happy DE owners on this forum!

Yeah, still the stock barrel. Perhaps some day I'll get a longer, maybe tighter-bore one, running it through the suppressor Is +-1.5fps (3fps in total) not pretty damned good?

This cheeky chappy? https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/gate-nanoasr-3rd-gen-advanced-solid-state-relay-mosfet (AK2M4 are sold out of the pre-wired Peruns which was the obvious option)

That's a "careful now" for "unsettling" me with that GIF

Oh shizzle. I don't want to get this all put together only to find that it doesn't work, because I've spent enough hours trying to re-assemble it already! Shimming it (my first attempt, of course), fitting the cylinder / head / piston and motor with the soldering and the fitting Deans etc will have kept me quite busy enough. At some point I'll have to MOSFET it, perhaps as per this ... and that'll be a good time to do the nozzle (if I can find a good replacement) and also buy a new hop unit / bucking / nub / inner barrel.

Yeah, that second bunch of chrono results are the Specna 0.28's, so around a 3fps variance!

Just for completeness, here's the accuracy test with ~30-35 shots with the Specna 0.28g BBs. It's a breezy day compared to my previous attempts, so that may be why the grouping includes a few flyers, but there's also a pleasing hole in the paper. I also had my 4x32 scope on the gun. Scientific 'method' gone a bit out of the window tbh, but it ensured I had a good aim. None of the shots were poorly taken, they occasionally just curved left or right (maybe the wind, maybe the hop still slightly askew) So... Accuracy test with Specna Arms Core 0.28g Bio BB's, 15m measured, fired from room @ 19-20C, 13C ambient temp outside, gusty wind, bench rest, 4x32 scope, approx 30 shots (probably a few extra) Chrono results for 10 shots with 0.20g Gold Fire BBs (with hop applied). 348.6 (high) 341.7 345.6 338.5 (low) 346.7 345.8 346.4 342.5 342.7 346.3 And with the 0.28's 280.1 278.4 276.8 279.0 278.7 280.1 280.8 278.6 280.7 279.0 (I've got more but they're all 278/279!) I've got to be happy with the consistency with the 0.28's I suppose the good news to take away from my experience thus far is that changing bucking + nub and spring seem to have settled the consistency of the power output, in warmer conditions at least, but the accuracy isn't massively improved. So presumably the DE bucking and nub are actually fairly decent (excepting the possibility the bucking didn't like the cold and was affecting the muzzle velocity)

There's this one in stock... which I've stuck in my basket https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/rocket-aug-aluminium-nozzle I've already WhatsApp'd @ak2m4 to see if he can add it to the order, but he's not read my message yet... so I can back out of that if you don't think it'll work. I measured the existing one at 25.10mm. Is that near enough (or is "a miss is as good as a mile")?

@Asomodai Right about now I'm finding it very disappointing we don't have an animated GIFs feature, in which I could search for things like "I love you and I want to have your babies" That goes for you too @Adolf Hamster Cheers guys, much appreciated! Order done!

There's a full length un-ported cylinder, and I guess I need the new cylinder head too? The Element motor description doesn't have the TPA, but I'm thinking lower cost = lower TPA I'd like to keep the costs down (obviously) but there's only so many times my sanity and inexperienced tech skills will allow me to try to re-assemble this gearbox ... So is it stupid to carry on with the existing piston and piston head?

Me, over-thinking things? Shurely shome mishtake Thank you so much for that. I'll amend my shopping list accordingly... back with that shortly.

@Asomodai thanks for that useful info! I'm looking at 15-20rps as my target. Current motor has 10 teeth Bevel gear has 30 teeth Spur gear has 39 teeth Sector gear has 30 teeth If I've counted correctly and used this: http://airsofttech.dk/Calculator.cshtml correctly, that is 17.55:1 (If the spur has 40 that would make it a round 18:1 ratio, so it seems likely I miscounted there!) So looking at your recommendations I'd need quite a high speed motor to turn those rapidly, with commensurate high battery drain, and perhaps a a higher wear rate... those don't worry me toooooo much... I just watched the Airsoft Tech explain about volume ratios... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LT0ptGQMc5g&t=628&ab_channel=TheAirsoftTech The preferred cylinder to barrel ratio for my preferred 0.28g BB's should be 1.5-1.8, according to him. I measured the internal length of the cylinder from port to back of the cylinder head as 22.3mm, with a cylinder radius of 11.7mm giving a total cylinder volume of 9,590mm3 With the barrel length as 420mm with an internal radius of 3mm giving a total barrel volume of 11,875mm3 That gives a cylinder / barrel ratio of 0.8075 Oh dear...? I'm off to look for a possible set of parts.

Good review @TheFull9 £25 and then £8 for lunch? Ouch. I'll appreciate the free nosh at Special Ops all the more hearing that. Losing a gbb mag would be painful, glad you found it. Please buy me a lottery ticket 😄 But spare a thought... at my last game some poor bugger lost a TM gold match hi capa pistol. That's an advert for pistol lanyards right there 😑