RostokMcSpoons

It sounds ok to me, no screeching or grinding. But all my guns sound different and I don't really know what to listen for, beyond 'unpleasant' Ah, that's something I'm not experienced enough to notice. I was very careful when taking this apart to ensure the main spring stayed in place so it didn't upset the gears, and bugger with the shimming... but the bearings all fell out of the top half of the shell. The shims had each stuck to their bearings, and as I'd cracked the shell open as gently as possible I tracked each bearing as it came out of place... I checked in between the gears to ensure nothing had fallen. So as far as I can tell nothing is in a different position or lost. The site tech (who'd previously put it together) had checked the shimming and pronounced he was happy with it. But this is making me think I need to open it up again and double-check the shimming, and be certain there's not a loose shim in there somewhere.

Cells are reading 8.22 total, 4.11 in each cell. The gun sounds fine to me, with a healthy fire rate... Yes it has been 'tinkered with', I just swapped out the nozzle. And previously it had an upgraded spring, guide and gear set fitted. It's shooting at 340fps with no hop, 0.20g BBs

Nope, I even took the chunky fuse holder out of the equation too. A mosfet seems like a likely addition now, I could run a small 11.1v in it, to make it a handy little beast. I had a problem with the DE the first time round, yes. It wouldn't charge and was showing weird stuff on the battery tester. Since the first successful charge it's been fine though. Do you think I've just got a duff one?

Yeah, there's a thread over in Electric Guns where I've been tracking my progress working on it... And thanks to the input of @Adolf Hamster, @Asomodai and @ak2m4 I've actually got it up-and-running. I've not actually used the new piston and piston head, I got a better air seal with the old piston! It's now running a teeny-tiny bit too hot at ~355fps so when I take it apart again to do a lube job with some proper grease, I'll maybe swap over (it's definitely better made, so worth using), see how it goes

This should be an easy question for someone to answer, I'm just a little bit surprised I'm needing to ask it: My TM AK47S is refusing to fire when connected to my Titan 7.4v 3000mAH Li-Ion battery (fully charged) But it will fire on an older Fconegy 8.4v 1700mAH NimH And on a Turnigy 11.1v 1200mAH Nano Cell Li-Po So is it just the lack of volts that's the problem? I've been using the Titan in all the other guns without an issue. (All wired with Deans connectors)

I'm not getting back on a site until the middle of the month, so my recent airsoft days have been "learning how to (bedroom) tech". I've been spending quite a lot of the holiday at it, and to be honest it's been time consuming and frustrating in parts, but ultimately very rewarding when it's all come together. I've now meddled (apparently successfully) with all 4 of my guns... 1) Double Eagle M906C - quick changed the spring, new bucking and nub. Super easy jobs! Not even teching, really 2) Classic Army M15A3 - shooting off to the right, spent a while shimming the outer barrel to get it straight. Fixed full auto feed. 3) Cybergun F2000 (Cyma) - shooting at 270fps out of the box with a rather slow trigger response, so replaced the spring, cylinder and motor 4) TM AK47S - Replaced cracked nozzle Given the last time I tried to change springs on the AK I ended up giving the gun to a tech to put together, the fact I've got all this done on my own feels great Only thing that's a tiny bit of a pisser is today I found out one of my two Turnigy Nano Cell 11.1v 1200mAH batteries has completely died.

Everyday's a school day! Thanks I've learned something ☺️

I thought the whole point of the degrees rating was they're the optimal operating temperature, is that not right?

Good luck with your build, will be chomping my popcorn on the side-lines, watching with great interest! As my CA M15A3 shoots best on semi-auto and has a stupidly long barrel, I might go the DMR route too, though it won't be easy as the DE with the lovely quick change spring system. I've fancied the idea of one of the magnifiers too... but from what I've read you have to be careful to find one that has a decent hinge so it stays up / down as required. So I thought a low power zoom scope might be a safer bet.

If anything the whole thing is under lubed at the moment. I'll do a bit of test shooting with it then I'll take it apart again to apply some better grease. I could swap the piston over (I'm using the old one as I didn't have to worry about engagement) to see how that affects muzzle velocity as I've obviously got some excess to spare (rather than swapping the spring) Edit: I've wound out the 'quick fps adjuster' screw in the spring guide and I'm getting down to 345-355fps with some hop applied, so maybe the spring is alright as-is, but I've ordered two lots of silicon grease (one for the gears, one for the piston) from good ol' AK2M4 so I'll still be opening it up again anyway. I'm no longer filled with fear by the internals of an airsoft gun. This must be a good thing (Or a bad thing for my bank balance, as I'll be prepared to change more stuff!) It's firing at a healthy 14.3 rps with the Titan 7.4v Li-Ion. I've definitely got a double-feed issue on full auto with my old Classic Army STANAG mag, which is the one I've been filling with the 0.20g BBs for all my chrono testing. I've twice (in the space of a couple of hundred shots) had the barrel end up with several BBs inside. That's a sub-optimal scenario right there. I've only fired a few bursts through the gun with the supplied hi cap and one of my other STANAGs, they seemed ok so it might just be finicky with the mags, but I'm really going to need to 'let loose' to see how much of an issue there is. Edit2: Pinged a good few rounds on full auto with the provided hi cap mag, no problems with that one at least!

IT'S ALIVE (Thanks feck for that!) Now my problem is that it's running a little on the spicy side! 360-370fps with 0.20g. The hop unit doesn't appear to impinge much on the barrel, even when fully on, so hop adjustment might not be enough to tame the beast I have created. I may have to get an M95 and fit that. But the motor seems to be running smoothly, and snappily, even on the half-charged NimH 1600mAH 8.4v I've been testing with. When I slap on a Mosfet and plug in the 11.1v Li-Po it should be awesome I have had one jam in the barrel, hopefully that's just down to the crappy 0.20g BB's I'm using

I might just run the old piston in the new cylinder, see how that pans out. For the interest of any tech-noobs who might read this thread in the future, I amended my jig. A couple of wood screws and an allen key go into the spring guide as I'm assembling the gearbox. I then wedge a screwdriver in under the allen key, to the left of the screws to create a levering force to keep the guide down in the shell, so a single finger of pressure on the cylinder is all that's required to keep things in place while I manipulate the top half and snap it down. (Also used the internal screw to extend the the spring guide to its longest length, to tame the spring from jumping out sideways)

Swapping the O rings was a good shout, but didn't work. The new one is quite weedy and loose compared to the old one, but they seem to do as well each other in action. So it's weird, the old piston is still better. When the nozzle goes on, both let air through quickly though, so in the end I'm wondering if it's worth chasing a great seal, when it all goes to pot anyway

Update... Wiring done after a bit of faffing about I decided "sod it" and just put it together. Motor spins (oooooh it's gone some oomph) when I move the trigger shuttle into contact. So that's that. Assembled the piston, cylinder and cylinder head. Here's a disappointment. I get a better air seal with the old piston than the fancy new one. Is there anything I could do to improve it? I'm using Silverhook Silicone Grease as my lube, would something different (thicker?) improve the air seal? Next job is shimming. This one frightens me, having watched the how-to videos. I don't have a viewing port in the gearbox to check the bevel and pinion engagement so it'll be a degree of guesswork right from the start, which doesn't sit well when I know that a 0.15mm shim might make all the difference. And as my level of intuition will be like Joey Essex trying to guess the answers in a exam on orbital mechanics, I'm probably going to mess it up, aren't I?

Cheers for the quick response, much appreciated Ok, my battery is already Deans connector, I sorted that out a while ago, its fine. I don't have any of the spade connectors so it'll have to be soldered. Deans +ve is arrowed... With Tamiya the round connector is +ve, assuming they're using the standard colour So obviously the weird thing I can't quite get my tiny brain around is why all the wires are red in parts, but become black and red for the motor, and yet I end up with two wires that I consider to be -ve being wired into the Deans! Brain... is... melting. Like my wiring if I bugger it up. I could re-wire my 'old' motor back up, and ensure it runs ok, maybe that's safest.

So like a complete dilbert I rushed into the job of changing the motor, and it was only once I'd got the cage off and de-soldered the wires that I realised I couldn't completely make sense of it Is it the red wire that goes +ve on the motor? I'd assume so but I didn't want to wire it wrongly and zap my motor or set the battery on fire! Also, I'm changing the Tamiya connector to Deans but I don't know if it matters how I wire that, because both the damned wires are black (though the one I'd have thought was -ve, judging by googled pics, has a hint of red to it!) Again, the desire to avoid flames and failures is strong, so I thought I'd better ask! I did google for v3 wiring diagrams / videos, but stuff related to AUG style trigger setups and this wiring is AWOL Cheers, and Happy New Year

I've taken much the same journey as you, I'm just further down the road 😋 My initial ideas on returning to Airsoft was to get a g&g cm16 but I ended up going for the double eagle m906c. And then I had a hankering for another gun, ended up wanting a bullpup, and bought an f2000 😁

Posted in another thread.. but here you go... Try this on for size... (apologies for the rubbish shop it's at, stock is tricky to find at the moment) https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/double-eagle-m908a-ar15-rifle-with-falcon-system-in-black.html It's out of stock at Patrolbase but the page is easier to read... https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/double-eagle-m908a-fire-control-system-edition Other variations in stock / receiver / length / rail system are available. Once you drop down to the 904's I think they're all polymer receiver but some might still have metal handguards Quite a few happy DE owners on this forum!

Upgrade kit for my F2000... SHS High Torque, XT Piston, Cylinder + head, XT piston, shim set... For a guy who can't get his V3 gearbox to fit together after 7 hours of effort, this feels like a bold move But if I'm ever going to learn this stuff, might as well go in at the deep end!

Thanks but 30mm is too long for the plastic fuse holder the tech fitted. Mind you, the damned thing takes up a lot of space and makes the top cover hard to fit (especially under-fire, as I found out), so maybe it has to go anyway. The fact that the fuse did blow gives me some pause for thought! However, it was only a 20A.

I decided that with the red dot and the iron sights not aligning, and now the barrel looking slightly left-ish if anything, I'd start again. So I removed the 1mm plastic shims I'd put in, and made a semi-circle of velcro (the hook side, it's more uniform) and shimmed with that, favouring a bit of upward push to go with the leftward push. Once I'd checked the red dot, centred for windage was good, I undid the grub screw on the front sight, and tweaked that a little so it's flush under the red dot. I then put the carry handle / iron rear sight back on, and 'bingo', good zero with both the Kobra and the iron sights. I think it's fixed Obviously things might be shown up as crap once I change the distance and start shooting at the 40m+ targets at SpecialOps, but for the moment I'm happy I've got a usable gun that I can take as a good backup again. Thanks all for your input 👍 Two guns sorted, two to go... 😛

It's a very good point, but given the problem seems to be hitting low and my holding by the barrel should impart an upward inflection, then I think it's a negligible difference I have to say once it's all tightened up it feels very solid, there's no obvious flex between the barrel and receiver in any direction I'm going to add an extra shim in at the 5 o'clock position, try to push the impact point up and slightly left.

Yeah it's RS. It zeroes ok with the DE though

Yup that's a thought actually. I mentioned previously the Kobra was way off on the aim, that was more vertical than horizontal, with the shots hitting lower than expected, so yes it's quite possible there's a little bit of barrel droop I need to correct too.

Does anyone know a good place to buy the diddy 20mm x 5mm glass tube fuses? I need a 30A for my AK and the ones I find are either 20A or below, or in China, or part of huge quantities or in selection boxes. I only need a couple!