Adolf Hamster

i definitely see it as a classic case of following the popularity. his early stuff wasn't too bad, somewhat genuine gameplay. of course he had a couple of early videos with genuine cheater encounters, those videos go viral, he starts seeing the ad money, so he starts focusing on the drama, but there isn't enough drama so he has to fake it, but faking it only works so far so he manufactures it instead. all the while he's being drawn into creating this tough guy persona, regardless of how he may really be as a person the harm that's done is now we have an influencer who's purveying a toxic attitude. and that's the problem, because if you're not actively an airsofter and you're watching his videos then you have no reference frame to know that this isn't how everyone in the hobby acts, and you're either going to be put off by the idea, or even worse you're going to engage with it and get into the hobby thinking that's an acceptable way to act. either way it's bad for our hobby. might be site specific, i've encountered tree folk a few times and it wasn't explicitly banned or called out when someone tried it, and tbf if it's allowed at the site then it can be pretty effective mostly because people don't expect to have to look in the trees.

1- true, although you get used to it. ironically a lot of the faff is simply getting to the gearbox in the first place and the m4 despite being a very common first gun is especially annoying to get to. 2- more complex yes, although more points of failure is debatable. the gearbox design isn't inherently unreliable, it's the fact they're built to a cost, and that's typically a low cost. and even then they're expected to fire thousands of rounds a day without breaking a sweat. 3- not sure cracking is a unique to v2 problem, unless we're generalising that to mean any tm derived gearbox in which case see point 2.

For a basic mosfet you're mostly going to gain elongated trigger contact life, ofc wether or not that has any meaningful impact compared to just replacing them when the time comes is up to you, usually the answer is no unless you have some weird trigger components that are a pain to source spares for. More advanced mosfets, well i tend to lean towards there not being much point until you get to precocking mosfets, active braking for example tends to cause more problems than it solves unless its used in conjunction with precocking, and i've never felt burst modes to be particularly useful. But precocking is where you start to get real meaningful performance gains (ie "trigger response") even with the simpler timed systems like the ab++ and the warfet. After that ofc its optical, and tbh, unless you really care that the first shot of semi after a burst of auto absolutely must be consistently precocked, or really want dat trigger sensitivity then you dont really need them.

it'd only be actual air if the mag had been completely emptied and left open to air before filling (eg first fill after a rebuild), otherwise by "air" whats really meant is the gaseous portion of the mags contents. that's exactly what happens. there is logic to venting the gaseous portion of a mags contents as its being filled, it keeps the pressure of the mag lower than the fill bottle hence ensuring it keeps flowing regardless of how full or empty the bottle is. however as you summise, it's pointless to vent from the bottom as that'll just dump liquid out, it's gotta vent from the top (which when filling is the fill valve). tm are the main manufacturer for using vented fill valves, although i have seen them elsewhere (eg airsoft innovations 40 mike and derivatives), idea being you fill until you get liquid spew from the valve. for non vented fill valves you can pulse when filling, but this risks overfilling (this is how i'd refill a lighter as it doesn't matter so much if there's no gas portion)

technically it isn't, especially when it's a large enough peice put practically yes. tbh it's one of those things that on it's own probably results in the square root of bugger all. but ounces make pounds, and lots of little improvements can end up being meaningfull.

I dunno, some folks in this sport feel like they're capable of the full black knight routine.....

Try reducing the reg pressure down to 0, it should vent the pressure between the reg and the bottle. Then you just store it in that state. Means you gotta set the reg every game, but that's not the worst.

technically yes practically, maybe the resistance from the valve will reduce the landing force of the hammer, and if it's a fragile skeletonised hammer this could make the difference and break it. better to drop the hammer gently outside of actual firing if you want to be absolutely sure, although many pews aren't gonna care.

Fair enough, suppose tbf i've never been one for displaying pews, more the stack em all in a corner type.

As above, doesnt look like significant differences, just different rail or stock style (which translated into ar speak means it's a totally different gun ) I suspect their bb flinging performance is going to be identical.

Kinda unrelated but what's the deal with hanging them by the barrel like that? Always seemed to me a strange way to do it what with risking inner barrel damage every time you hang one up.

Worth checking the energy levels on a chrono, see if its dropped off at all. Heavier ammo is always a good starting point for range, an evo should handle it ok. As for upgrades, whilst the evo can be made better, its starting position is usually pretty damn good and it can be hard to make significant improvements, one of those guns that's often better left alone.

That's a very broad topic, and whilst the basics are somewhat straightforward the further down you go the more detail and nuance there will be. The best way to learn is to do it. However that said, that's also the best way to ensure the gun isnt guaranteed to run well next time you use it. So for the benefit of your sanity don't do it without a reliable backup gun. You could for example buy a cheap boneyard pew and try to restore it, best case you get a cheap gun, worst case it's a cheap learning experience. Try, fail, learn, try again, fail at something else, learn, repeat Resources on youtube etc can be good, but without the experience to know if you're watching negative airsoft or skylar from reddit you can easily end up in a rabbit hole of bad advice. On here we tend to be pretty good, lot of knowledgable folks, but even then you can get the odd bit of airsoft mythology still get through.

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3 point slings can sometimes work on certain guns, the sa80 or f2000 for example. But for a regular ar or ak? Quick adjust 2 point all day

^ This There's really one downside to precocking, which is making the motor cold start with almost maximum load on it, which a weaker motor may not be able to do. But if you care enough to be messing around with precocking then you either have, or dont mind getting a decent motor. The other issue is leaving a gun in a precocked state might depending on the quality of the mainspring see a drop in energy during storage, although there are some methods around this: 1. Some guns have a de-cocking mechanism, although they're more the exception rather than the norm 2. Some mosfets have a de-cocking feature (eg hold trigger in semi for a few seconds and it'll cycle to remove the precock) 3. Other guns you *can* manually push the piston rearwards with a flat-ended tool through the nozzle to de-cock it. 4. Some gearboxes have a slot that enables you to manually disengage the anti reversal latch Otherwise it's all the "trigger response" from a higher speed build, without the downsides of said higher speed build. You can get snappy guns without it, thats what all the short stroking/high speed gears/speediboi motors/chunky batteries etc are aimed at, but its so much easier to slap a precocking mosfet on a more moderate build and enjoy your gun not eating itself every other game.

I did try the etched shims and even with maximum ocd engaged it was a bugger to keep track of them. So i opted for just stacks of 0.1 shims, dont gotta keep track of sizes if you only got one size

And depressingly it seems easy access to verifiable information was not the cure

You drill a hole and pin one end, then push the other into the mag like it's the feed tube of the hop unit. It might take a bit of wiggling but it'll pop the bb's right out.

As above A short term fix is to intentionally load 10-20 rounds short of capacity and just run them that way. A stub of inner barrel is a handy tool to extract a set number of rounds from a mag.

Afaik isnt it a holdover from it being a p90 box? G&g with the version 6 box Theres a lug with a screw on the bottom of the gearbox about where the fill hatch of a hicap mag is. Fine if your using hicaps or g&g's special midcaps with a hole in them but a regular mid cap mag with a flat top wont seat properly. But easy to cutoff the tab and it'll take regular mags.

I mean if its true about the mag incompatibility (not a drum mag guy) then filing the catch isnt the worst thing in the world to do. I remember the first thing i ever did on the f2000 was take a hacksaw to the bottom of the gearbox to remove the pointless tab that prevented you using regular midcaps. Same category of mod as snipping the mini tamiya of every single gun in the collection and putting an actual connector on it.

Thats a thing people beleive? Wait, its airsoft i shouldnt be surprised.....

It doesnt affect how fast the motor is spinning, but the back pressure would resist the piston more, slowing it down. Same idea as a heavier piston, as your rof limit before you get pme is dictated by how long it takes the piston to be in the proper position to be picked up again. But as i said i'm not sure just how significant that effect would be, it may well be negligible

As a sterilised "one motor manufacturer, one spring manufacturer, one gun built by one good tech and tested with one brand/weight of bb's" chart it certainly has the expected form. Of course there will be complications: -A taller gear ratio will move the curve to the right, likewise a shorter gear ratio will move it to the left -Short stroking (with the appropriate increase in spring strength) will shrink the pme zone -a higher voltage battery will move the curve to the right, lower to the left -a heavier piston setup will expand the pme zone -any sub optimal build that adds friction will move the curve to the left Heavier ammo is a curious one, intuitively it should expand the pme zone although by how much isnt something i could comment on, it could well be insignificant. As for individual motors, well a strong neo motor in good order isn't going to be placed in the same spot as a knackered ferrite motor even if they have the same nominal tpa. All that said, its still a useful illustrative tool for where the ballpark is.