Adolf Hamster

spring. was pretty fun tbh, accuracy wise seemed pretty passable (caveat it was a sub 1j otherwise stock gun on .32's) i'd say somewhere in the region of stock vsr terrirory. although the front sight mount is a bit flimsy on it, the one i was using wasn't that old and had already lost the front post. the cocking peice on the bolt can sometimes rotate and jam on you, but once you get the hang of it it's ok. mag's a bit weird, it works just fine once you figure it out, although constantly winding it up to reload mid-game will strip the skin off your thumb, reckon it'd be a right pain to fix if the string breaks though. if you do get one then make sure and get the front sight attached as solid as you can and the wood isn't the nicest (but some wire wool and oil should sort that out)

2 example pretty much sum up my views on headshots: scenario 1- woodland area sneaking through the bushes, meet another player along the path. i'm at left hand concealement and i can't shoot for shit left handed so i figure i'll tuck myself into the hedge wait for the other guy to move out of cover towards me. other player fires a burst through the hedge, and it makes it's mark (hedge was not as dense as i'd thought), however whilst he'd aimed for where he reckoned me stomach would be because i've tucked down deeper i catch it straight to the noggin. he issues a quick sorry, i point out i'd crouched into it, end of story. scenario 2- outside area with a few bunkers, i'm frantically defending against a lot of players attacking from the front, don't notice the sneaky bugger coming round behind. he has a clear view of me through the door of the bunker and lets fly- an extended auto blast right into the face at a relatively short distance. he could have aimed anywhere but chose the face. in both cases i'm catching a burst to the bonce, but the context is the important thing. the objective at the end of the day is to get the other player to notice, and therefore call the hit. but there is a subset of players who seem to think that's not enough and they need to go above and beyond. they may try to justify it to themselves by claiming it's to "deal with cheaters" or whatever but in my experience that's a hollow argument as someone who's dead set on not calling a hit won't call it no matter how hard, how much, or where you hit them but someone who's honest will call the lightest of glancing blows. calling players that take exception to this weak isn't really the way forward. i'm paying money to have fun, i'm not paying money to be someone else's punching bag or to undergo more pain than is necessary, if i was into that i'd play paintball or take up boxing instead.

The problem is that whilst yes it will detract from km and other folk who follow the same attitude, it will also detract from regular players significantly. For example it will allow tactics such as peeking over cover with impunity which is gonna cause as many arguments/annoyances as it solves. End of the day the specific tactics aren't the problem, its how people employ them and wether or not it's done in a dickish way.

can't say i agree with that. when you're dealing with cover you can almost guarantee that headshots are a necessity because all the target profile you're gonna have to shoot at is their gun, maybe some arm/shoulder, with the head being the biggest target. the problem is not headshots in general, it's unnecessary headshots ie intentionally aiming for the face/head when you have other parts of the body to shoot at. km may very well not be aiming intentionally for headshots as often as it appears in his videos, however he is portraying himself to be a player that intentionally goes for the head.

not necessarily while back due to technical difficulties ended up playing a whole day with nothing but a pps mosin and a speedloader in me pocket

i mean that is the one thing every WE i've met is incapable of......

It's trying to go from a standing start, potentially under load (depending how far it rolls past cutoff) A very approximate analogy is why your car wont pull away from parked in 5th gear, but once up to speed it's fine. Batteries have 3 main ratings: Voltage (7.4v, 11.1v etc) more volts = more oomph so it'll spin everything faster. Think of this like the horsepower on your engine Capacity (800mah, 1200mah etc) expressed as milli amp-hours, more is always better because it'll last longer, but the trade off is generally a battery that is physically larger so might not fit in the gun. Think of this like the fuel tank on your car C rating (20c, 15c, 30c etc), this is an expression of the safe current draw a battery can do, the formula is you take your capacity in mah, divide by 1000 (converting to ah) then multiply by the c rating. More c rating is always good and much better to be over-specced (as the actual amp draw is what the motor tries to take), of course the downside is the battery will be more expensive. The car analogy is tricky but think of this like the fuel pump- the engine wants what it wants and you gotta feed it fuel fast enough. However, this is a stock gun and presuming the battery isn't worn out/got a dead cell (which will be noticable in every gun you use it in) then we can probably rule that out as the problem.

always a balance to be struck. i mean you could argue spare magazines, pistols and webbing gear of all types is unnecessary given you can still play effectively with an arp9 and a drum.

sounds fun. i've always wanted to get more ambushes going on in airsoft.

when you say it would barely shoot do you mean she was struggling to cycle? in which case i'd start at the battery and work towards the motor as either the motor is too weak or it's not being fed enough juice. in terms of range/accuracy it's a multi step process, but a new hop rubber/nub to lift heavier ammo and some air seal work is gonna be your best bang for buck. that will mean cracking her open though.

sounds reasonable enough

^summed up pretty well. Plus there's more to a high end build than just the box.

Wasnt that the impression you were trying to give us?

i must admit, i've only experienced one site that had a site-weapon that could be used by anyone. it's a good idea though, some guns like the mg42 or the minigun don't really work all that well as a personal carried weapon but would be ideal for an emplaced "everyone can use it" kind of deal. nope, you can do islands if you want, as specified in the original brief elbonia has a mix of terrain that means you can recreate a reasonable facsimile of anywhere on earth. for those not aware elbonia is a forgotten weapons reference.

i don't bulk buy, but i do keep a stock of them around. but then i keep stock of just about everything these days.....

had a beard for as long as i could grow one proper, my face might be combat operator but sadly my gut somewhat spoils the effect

and this is why we wear earpro plus you get the following side advantages: -warm ears -radio connectivity -bb protection -looking operator af tbh i've given up on 'nades for airsoft, i'll occasionally dabble in disposable pyro but tbh i rarely get the opportunity to use it and when that rare chance comes i forget i have it

fair enough, sounds like that guns had some butchering done to it in the past. chrono is always a good move, it's the second best thing to being able to actually shoot it at proper range to see what your consistency is gonna be like.

There's a reason you see ten polarstar jacks for sale for every f2.....

are you sure the cutoff is worn enough to be causing the overspin? reason i say is cutoff levers can be a right pain to replace, one of those parts that really highlights the "compatible-ish" nature of airsoft. the piston seal can be heath-robinsoned by stretching (or if your fancy replacing) just the piston o-ring (assuming the piston itself is in good nick), likewise ptfe tape (or doing it properly new o rings) on the cylinder head can sort that end. metal rack isn't guaranteed protection (and arguably a sacrificial plastic part can be good) but if the original is chewed up then might as well (you may need to glue the rack in yourself or it can get ripped out) i presume the spring guide replacement is to a bearing type? that is a worthwhile move as it means you can lighten the piston by not having a bearing in that end. spring i'd leave for now until you sort the airseal- could be perfectly good just the air loss is killing it. bucking/nub certainly a good option, ml macaron+autobot is my go-to combo these days. nozzle make sure to check the length, unfortunately not just the length can vary but also the internal diameter so if you're gonna change the head and nozzle try and get the same brand. mosfet wise, plenty of options for cheap and cheerful but i tend to like putting something like the nanoasr in as the wiring is identical to the higher end gate mosfets so you can easily swap to something like a warfet later down the line.

is it really that badly worn that all of that stuff is gone? because if it really is then it'll be cheaper and easier just to buy a whole new box as a drop-in.

from russia with backspin

they're all over the show tbh. some of we's stuff is pretty damn good, some of it is utter garbage. their products tend to fall down though when there's competition, the only gun they make that i can put my finger on and say "the we version is the best out there" is the makarov and it's long list of 1 blowback competitor.....

am i the only one thinking there's a distinct star-trek vibe going on here