Adolf Hamster

Must be awesome playing airsoft on a submarine

that would depend on what you're using the gun for, how it currently shoots, and what areas of performance you'd like to improve. for example i could recommend a long list of things to check/change for improving range/accuracy but that would be pointless if the sites you play at have short engagement distances.

see this is why cats are the superior pet- their shit may stink but that's a problem for 2-doors down when he's digging up the flowerbed

🤢🤮 🤢🤮 🤢🤮 🤢🤮

*wipes brow, pleased he will live to see another day*

as a fellow largeman i've never got on with PC's, adding 2+" of overhang just makes an awkward situation even more awkward. it's one of the reasons i've stuck with belt rigs (in particular the smersh), you get a decent setup adjusted right it's a lot more comfortable.

not entirely, I did for a while entertain the thought that @ImTriggerHappy was negative airsoft until @Armourpiercing showed up *awaits severe burning for that one*

don't worry, we've all been there

i'm starting to wonder if we have a double agent on this board. might be going crazy, but it seems ever since we regained @Rogerborg we seem to have lost @Sitting Duck are they in fact the same person? maybe split personalities?

sorry, must have missed this post last night. don't really have a guide, it's as simple as stuffing a tiny o-ring under the hop adjustment wheel to give it a bit of friction. certainly if you're wanting to push it to the point of short-stroking. the ak build i mentioned earlier was a 455mm barrel but it wasn't short-stroked. generally i tend to go with just don't change the barrel length so you don't have to start messing around with voluming, although it's perfectly plausible to run a shorter barrel than the outer to enable short-stroking.

whatever it is reckon only way to be sure is to pull her apart again.

could be, the col should be kicking the trolley up and the spring pulls it back over the trigger. last time i had this issue was with a boneyard mp5 where the trigger and trolley weren't matched, but i'm assuming that's not the case here.

without wishing to sound too obvious, but the return spring hasn't popped off the trolley?

ahh, you might be able to add a small o-ring? some g&g hop wheels have a little cutout for an o-ring in them to prevent that happening.

i feel compelled to ask why you want incremental clicks? the only hop i'm aware of for an m4 with clicks was the one that came with the ascu module, but that is such utter utter garbage i wish i didn't know it existed.

i'd suggest looking at the stainless ZCI 6.02's @ak2m4 sells, excellent barrels for the money. is there anything particularly wrong with the stock unit?

warfet would be the obvious choice, same contacts as the nano so literal plug and play.

it may well do that, but it could also open up alignment issues if it isn't a good fit for the receiver. why do you want to add a sorbo pad? so far i've only ever seen one piston actually be broken in an airsoft gun and that was a g&g polymer head that had been hammered by a combination of terrible air seal compensated for by a stupid strong spring. you don't want the piston impact to be too spongey, otherwise the aoe will change from when you set it on the workbench to when you have the spring in the gun.

it's worth picking up a chrono for doing your own tech work, it's the closest thing to some range time to estimate how good a gun is gonna shoot. as for the gearing etc i'm still gonna advocate looking into mosfets with precocking, it'll make for a big improvement in semi response without needing to push the gun faster in auto.

i don't think it's actually a slide, looks more like a bolt mauser style? would make sense with the then fixed optic rail the scorpion evo selector was meant to be a lesson not a challenge.......

am i missing the context here?

my last ak build ran one of those motors on 13:1 on 7.4v came out ~20rps, i'd put good money on that same setup with 11.1v eating any piston you throw at it. whats your current rof? setting aoe properly won't hurt but if the problem is pme then something is still gonna get shredded. if your goal is better semi auto response then you're going to be much better off running a lower powered battery and using a mosfet with precocking to make up the difference. if you do want to preserve auto rof then you're gonna have to start looking at short-stroking, which will depend on the barrel length/cylinder volume you've got to play with. however what i will say is if you can't get someone to call a hit at 20rps then that's a failure of the target not the gun and doubling the rof will not solve the problem.

there's a lot of possibilities. its possible a steel rack may survive, but equally possible the rack will just get ripped out the back or something else in the geartrain will break (ie teeth) gearing and battery aren't the only factors, for example if you're using a standard motor compared to say an asg 40k will determine wether or not PME is the issue.

and you were doing so well too.....

Fair enough, if we were sure the mags were full that woulda been the next port of call but looks like you jumped ahead on that.