Adolf Hamster

iirc i think specna's bb's are supposed to be decent enough. you might want to look up a chap called gasman on here did a bunch of testing on bb's a while back. i always went with geoffs, usually .3's or .32's for assault builds, pricey but it's amazing how many "feed issues" i've fixed over the years by swapping out the ammo in the magazine to them.

the ammo may well be playing a part in it, good quality ammo is as essential to an accuracy based build as any amount of hop rubbers/barrels etc, likewise removing wind from the equation won't hurt. barrel length alone generally isn't too important, at least not within the extremes (ie stupid long or stupid short). generally the other factors (quality/weight of ammo, air seal, correct voluming, hop and barrel quality) are more impactful. generally there's not much reason to worry/mess with barrel length outside of the needs of the gun to look appropriate to its real world counterpart.

yeah, that extra bit of a nub is a neat idea, but tbh i've never found issue with the standard setup as you just install the barrel before the nub and hop arm. its a tricky one to gauge, generally when pulling the box fully apart to do it a lot of it still based on feel anyway (well, at least if you're going for the basic static check). generally chrono is the best quantative measure- lower the fps dispersion the better

i can agree there, that's what's largely driven me away from the hobby, the fun bits become routine yet the annoying aspects get no less annoying. kinda arrived at the conclusion that it'll never change as long as this is a sport played by humans.

looks like the stock hop nub (red bit) is a weird proprietary shape, but it also looks like if you slide it out sideways the omega nub will sit normally in the arm. reckon that extra bit of material that's in the top is to stop the nub from falling out (which is the inevitable outcome of cutting corners and not dissassembling the hop before pulling the barrel with a standard nub) normally i'd caution against spring changes until certain the air seal is pretty consistent, as a low energy reading could be an adequate spring losing most of its puff to an air leak, but sounds like 'borgs silicone down the nozzle trick has helped a bit in that regard (also possible the macaron feedlips are sealing better to the nozzle)

inb4 all the "never use silicone on a hop rubber" posts. it should just be good to go, just be sure when you have the barrel and hop unit re-assembled to check that everything is nice and centred and the adjustment is working fine, you may need to "twiddle" a bit to get it all sitting nice.

whilst i don't strictly disagree with the premise that mass gathering events (such as, but not limited to protests) allow enhanced spread of disease compared to not having such events, there needs to be care taken not to take correlation as equal to causation. in this case, the correlation is that protest events are causing the rise in cases, when it's equally plausible that the protest events are symptomatic of a wider feeling of safety, where people are gathering for all sorts of reasons (with protesting being only one of those reasons) and it is the wider relaxation of society that is primarily responsible for the rise in cases. for example the first rise in cases on your chart, which protest event is that linked to?

i'm thinking more that folk will inevitably try to break the spirit of limited ammo by fitting a box mag, rock up at chrono "yeah i'm a support gunner" then proceeding to spend the rest of the day as-normal. and by paper 249 i mean specifically the polymer ones that are so light they double in weight when you fill them up with ammo.

as long as support gunners are defined as actual heavy guns rather than a paper m249 or ar derivative with a box mag.

it's an idea i like, as you say problematic to enforce, but good in principle for changing up the game dynamic of a regular skirmish without necessarily screwing anyone over for not having things like low caps etc. problem is, like most things in this sport, it's not the ones who are playing fairly and following the in-place rules that are the problem, so adding more rules won't necessarily fix it. this is true, and a trap we've all fallen foul of at some point, even if you're usually an ok judge of things unless you actually see the rounds land then it always remains a possibility. although that doesn't mean non-hit calling isn't a thing, it absolutely is ranging from legitimate no-feels (something no player is immune to, no matter how honest) to tunnel vision to just straight up plot armour.

i just didn't want the gun falling on the ground nah i was selling the gun as a package, although didn't get much traction so ended up splitting, iirc i sold the sling with the tri-rail then sold the gun sans-sling. yeah the tri-rails for the f2000's were difficult to get a hold of, one day my local managed to find a bunch of them and i instantly bought one. i know the real gun had a version of the handguard with a short section of rail protruding from it, but personally i preferred the whole-hog tri-rail as it's juust long enough to fit a 203 onto..... on the g&g version the handguard was hollow plastic (made of 2 halves similar to the main body of the gun), probably would be strong enough to cut a hole and mount a rail into it if you printed a block that would sit tight on the inside of the shell to mount to.

the way i ran mine was using what's sometimes referred to as a "tactical thong" around the back of the rifle, then with the front tri-rail installed it was convenient to put on an SA80 sling. had to run the sling on the loose side as the f2000 isn't as long as an sa80 and the amount of slack when switching it from 2 point to 1 point mode meant it was either too tight in 1-point or too loose in 2-point. pic pinched from one of my old sales posts:

tbh, i don't think even that works out for a sufficiently determined arse.

i can't imagine any engine would be damaged by low pressure, worst case it'll struggle to cycle properly.

i'd presume it's mainly the accuracy of the output gauge reading over/under the actual psi reading (compared to if you'd measured it with properly calibrated equipment) eg when the real pressure is 60psi, the balystik says it's 55psi and the storm says it's 65psi.

personally i preferr the tan, and the g&g version i had the colour was leaning more towards dark earth. tbh anyone looking at the gun to judge it usually stops at the piscine resemblance and never gets far enough to worry about the colour. if the end game is to go for that paint job probably better to go black, as that'll match closer to the blacks on the camo scheme than the tan will to any of the other colours.

best days airsoft i ever had there were maybe 1 or 2 pews that didn't have airlines. even though i was on the dark side myself at the time i saw all those air lines and thought "well today is gonna be shit", but boy was i wrong about that. basically every usual gripe about airsoft proceeded to not happen the entire day and the closest thing to dickish behaviour (and i'm really stretching the definition here) was opting to fire one round somewhere it wouldn't hurt over risking a (non-mandatory at that site) bang kill. when the players aren't arseholes the gear they're using becomes irrelevant.

i have in the past dabbled with the brrrt side of things and tbh whilst you can punch through undergrowth that a slower rof couldn't, it's otherwise of limited utility, certainly if it's being acheived at the expense of accuracy. it wasn't long at all before i was voluntarily dialing it back because it was difficult to not send more than the necessary amount of plastic downrange. generally the figure that i've heard most sites implementing is 30rps, which tbh could still be argued to be on the fast side, and as long as it's applied equally (as in any gun is limited not just hpa) then i don't see it as a particularly unfair rule. with that said, folks can still be a dick and overshoot with a lower rate of fire, it just takes longer.

definately this, takes all the pain out of loading midcaps.

in case it wasn't clear from everyone else, tinkering straight away isn't the greatest idea, especially when you don't have a reliable backup. don't get me wrong, tinkering on pews can be enjoyable and rewarding for those so inclined, and i do recommend people learn it themselves because in the long run it's great being able to sort issues yourself, buy secondhand with confidence etc, but the time and place to dive into it is not when you only have one pew, no experience and nothing to fall back on should it not work out. as someone who didn't take that advice and jumped straight in trust me the walk of shame when your latest experiment has resulted in a gun that doesn't shoot, or shoots so badly it's unplayable gets very old very quickly. ^ is definitely a better avenue for you to look at spending your money/effort on, you can include things like slings, maybe a red dot (unless you prefer iron sights, that's fine too), magazines (eg midcaps+a decent speedloader if you don't like winding hicaps). once you've got setup and are comfortable you can try grabbing a cheap secondhand gun and have a crack at tinkering with it, safe in the knowledge that your main gun is going to still serve you well when needed.

As long as it aint rolling into double firing overspin is just free precocking.

why do you want active braking? without precocking active brake is generally not that useful, even detrimental, outside of a subset of builds that are using the old school "just make it faster" approach to trigger response.

tbh i wouldn't even go that far initially, nowt wrong with the ml macaron+omega combo but no sense cracking open a brand new gun (and voiding what passes in airsoft for a warranty) until you've got a clear benchmark and goal as to what you want to improve.

whatever floats your boat i suppose. point is, there's more than just the gun performing optimally that makes for a good days pewing.

certainly it wouldn't be enough to warrant the risks associated with opening the thing up with limited teching experience. first rule of teching is make sure you have a reliable backup gun before you start messing with it. in the early stages the money would be better spent on other accessories. for example i'd find a bunch of midcaps and an odin (with adapter) would increase enjoyment more than putting the money into making the gun shoot a bit better. but then i really, really hate hicaps.....